Mini Table Saw

[RickP330]

Hi guys,
I need a new one, but am having a hard time buying this from HF. Any suggestions / options?

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-mighty-mite-table-saw-with-blade-61608.html

Much TIA
Rick

 

[tarbellb]

What are you planning on cutting?

 

[RickP330]

It is for hobby use. I am cutting 1/8" x 12" x 24" Birch 5 ply Aircraft plywood. I will want to cut up to 1/4" thick 5 ply as well. It is pretty dense wood and I may want to rip up to 2 foot long pieces. A fence and a tee square would be very helpful.

A full size table saw might be overkill... It would be nice to be able to store it under my workbench when not in use, and clamp it to the top when I need it.

Here is a picture:

http://www.chilterntimber.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/air-birch-new-web.jpg

Thanks Rick!

 

[HanShotFirst]

How bout a portable 10". Takes a much bigger spot under the bench, but it can still fit under the bench. That would give you a much better fence, and a world of blade choices.

 

[RickP330]

Great Suggestion. That may work. A bit more money, but very nice:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1510934703&sr=1-1&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

RP

 

[michaelwolson]

Have you thought about buying/using a bandsaw instead? The material you are using is very thin so it would probably rip/cross cut as good as a table saw if you used a fence.

I would assume it would also be useful for other aspects of model plane making like curves.

A benchtop model would have a smaller footprint then the portable 10" table saw. It would be much taller though...

 

[todd_fuller]

Track saw? Storage is minimal.

 

[Toolfool]

Go with the Dewalt you linked. You won't regret it.

 

[tarbellb]

Honestly I was getting ready to harp you on for even thinking of using that saw... but for what you are doing it might actually be a good choice.

Track saws are great for long cuts in big pieces but quickly become hard to use for thinner cuts ie anything less then the track width.

You can likely make that HF model work, plan on replacing or beefing up the fence. Check for true 90º on blade. Oh replace the blade immediately with something nicer too.

I know there are some EU brands that offer small portable tables saws, but they are much nicer and more $$$.

Good luck.

 

[beakie]

Track saw? Storage is minimal.

cutting small pieces ***** tho.

of cuts is fine, but you need a large enough piece under the track to support it and/or clamp too.

I really like my track saw (used it last night to make a trundle bed for under a bunk bed out of 1/4" pine ply) but once the work piece gets small, a table saw is a better/safer tool for the job.

 

[tarbellb]

Yes, that Dewalt is considered one of the best portable TS available, period.

Definitely up to the task and much more. I also like the Ridgid R4516 that will be on sale for $199 this Black Friday I think.

 

[RickP330]

Have you thought about buying/using a bandsaw instead? The material you are using is very thin so it would probably rip/cross cut as good as a table saw if you used a fence.

I would assume it would also be useful for other aspects of model plane making like curves.

A benchtop model would have a smaller footprint then the portable 10" table saw. It would be much taller though...

Oh, a bandsaw is an excellent idea. I also have a scroll saw that is also kind of overloaded for the task. Maybe we are on to something here. What about this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016VD8GAA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

RP

 

[bushmechanic]

Search for "micro table saw" on the net. They're not hard to find.

Tools like this absolutely have their place in miniature and model making. You can buy them at any price point, for any level of manufacture. Here's a more budget-oriented unit. You can pay a hell of a lot more than this, mind you:

https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Miniature-Table-Saw

I've seen that one once, but never used one.

Just about everything you'd bolt to a bench is available as a micro bench-top unit. Even lathes that are mind-bogglingly precise.

Table saws like that can't really be replaced with a full-sized tool. It's a completely different and slower, more precise way to do things. Hell, I just sold a thousand dollar, frequently used lathe for someone. It would have easily fit in a lunch box.

 

[gmt]

Keep in mind the HF mini table saw is very under powered and would probably bog down cutting the plywood or make the cutting a very slow process. A better choice for a mini table saw would be the micromark or proxxon mini table saws. They are alot more expensive than the HF one, but have more cutting power. I have both the HF and proxxon mini table saws. Also keep in mind that the mini table saws are small.

 

[theoldwizard1]

After a good quality blade, the second most important part of a table saw is a good fence. It has to lock down securely and always perfectly parallel ti the blade. This is why Biesemeyer fences are so expensive.

Third is a miter gauge and/or a table saw sled.

 

[dutchgray]

Keep in mind the HF mini table saw is very under powered and would probably bog down cutting the plywood or make the cutting a very slow process. A better choice for a mini table saw would be the micromark or proxxon mini table saws. They are alot more expensive than the HF one, but have more cutting power. I have both the HF and proxxon mini table saws. Also keep in mind that the mini table saws are small.

I know someone who bought the Proxxon and ended up with 3 of them within a few months, two dead ones before they got one that lasted more than a few hours, they all had different electronics inside from the factory as well.

 

[Voi]

It is for hobby use. I am cutting 1/8" x 12" x 24" Birch 5 ply Aircraft plywood.

Those are the sizes you're starting with or those are the sizes you're breaking larger sheets down into?

If it's the former I'd go to YouTube and search [circular saw cross cutting jig] without the brackets.

There are so many good ideas out there.

 

[bushmechanic]

After a good quality blade, the second most important part of a table saw is a good fence. It has to lock down securely and always perfectly parallel ti the blade. This is why Biesemeyer fences are so expensive.

Third is a miter gauge and/or a table saw sled.

You mean like this one?

http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw5.html

These things can get pretty beefy.

 

[Makoto]

sold my table saw a while back and I think i'm going the track saw route in the future for storability.

 

[6PTsocket]

How about the Rockwell Blade Runner. It is a small small table top saw that uses regular T shank jig saw blades. Some of those Bosch blades give a very clean cut. There is a fence for rip cuts. I just took a quick look and saw it for $99. I did not price shop it or check reviews but it might be worth checking out. With the right blades you can do curves as well. Clearly it will never match a scroll saw for tight curves. As it is basically an inverted jig saw it probably has plenty of power. People use them to cut counter tops for sinks all the time. The only Rockwell tool I own is an oscillating cutter and I am satisfied with the quality.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[dwall174]

Try finding a used Proxxon on C/L or e-bay,

https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37070.php

New they are around $400
But I've seen them used for under $100

Really nice little saws, Very precise & great for small intricate cuts!

Doug

 

[theoldwizard1]

If it's the former I'd go to YouTube and search [circular saw cross cutting jig] without the brackets.

I like this design ! The most critical element is making sure the the bottom upright is truly 90° to the 2 side rails.

I would use a small battery operated saw. The trick is finding a good quality, thin kerf, high tooth count, probably non-carbide tipped, blade.

 

[RickP330]

You mean like this one?

http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw5.html

These things can get pretty beefy.

Oh that is sweet, but look at the price
Awesome,
Thanks!
RP

 

[Wolfman6]

Go with the Dewalt, keep in mind that you don't have to use a 10 inch blade all the time. Any blade with the same arbor will work. You can use 6" saw blades with a super thin kerf. Less mass spinning means less nose and vibration for cleaner cuts.

 

[bushmechanic]

How about the Rockwell Blade Runner. It is a small small table top saw that uses regular T shank jig saw blades. Some of those Bosch blades give a very clean cut. There is a fence for rip cuts. I just took a quick look and saw it for $99. I did not price shop it or check reviews but it might be worth checking out. With the right blades you can do curves as well. Clearly it will never match a scroll saw for tight curves. As it is basically an inverted jig saw it probably has plenty of power. People use them to cut counter tops for sinks all the time. The only Rockwell tool I own is an oscillating cutter and I am satisfied with the quality.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I've got one and use the hell out of it. It's awesome.

Never built a balsa airplane, though. It's a pretty precise unit when you use a nice blade, but it's still a blade attached only on one end. That said, I've cut more acrylic on this thing than I can remember, and it's always been fine.

I think the biggest problem there might be finding the appropriate blade.

Thin, weak materials tend to like either a supported blade, or a circular blade spinning against a supporting platform. That leaves you with scroll, band, or table saws in general.

So, thread side-note: The Rockwell Blade Runner is wonderful and just as portable as they advertise. It's strong, precise, and well-made at the price.

I just don't think it would like that super thin balsa wood. I'd stop by the hobby shop to grab some and give it a try, but I'd still need an appropriate blade, and all we have nearby is a Lowes.

 

[6PTsocket]

I've got one and use the hell out of it. It's awesome.

Never built a balsa airplane, though. It's a pretty precise unit when you use a nice blade, but it's still a blade attached only on one end. That said, I've cut more acrylic on this thing than I can remember, and it's always been fine.

I think the biggest problem there might be finding the appropriate blade.

Thin, weak materials tend to like either a supported blade, or a circular blade spinning against a supporting platform. That leaves you with scroll, band, or table saws in general.

So, thread side-note: The Rockwell Blade Runner is wonderful and just as portable as they advertise. It's strong, precise, and well-made at the price.

I just don't think it would like that super thin balsa wood. I'd stop by the hobby shop to grab some and give it a try, but I'd still need an appropriate blade, and all we have nearby is a Lowes.

There are many reviews and a Bosch video on blade selection. The "ultra clean cut" blades reportedly do not splinter the wood on either side. Lowes may not have a good selection but plenty of stuff is online and can be had quickly. I have the Bosch Progressor blades and the tooth design is so sharp and agressive it is scary. I am sure the OP can get a clean cut with the right blade, if the saw supports the blade well. That is something I have no knowledge of. The Bosch jig saws excell in that feature. Hopefully, there is a zero clearance filler supplied or that can be fabricated. That is necessary to prevent splintering.

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[bushmechanic]

There are many reviews and a Bosch video on blade selection. The "ultra clean cut" blades reportedly do not splinter the wood on either side. Lowes may not have a good selection but plenty of stuff is online and can be had quickly. I have the Bosch Progressor blades and the tooth design is so sharp and agressive it is scary. I am sure the OP can get a clean cut with the right blade, if the saw supports the blade well. That is something I have no knowledge of. The Bosch jig saws excell in that feature. Hopefully, there is a zero clearance filler supplied or that can be fabricated. That is necessary to prevent splintering.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I use Bosch blades in mine, actually.

The stores around here just don't have a good selection.

If I drive by the hobby store tonight, I'll buy some balsa and give it a shot if I can just get a small piece for a few bucks. It's worth trying just to see what happens.

Haven't made anything "precise" with balsa since the Pinewood Derby.

It's a pretty unique material with nearly unlimited uses. I just don't use it... LOL

 

[bushmechanic]

What the hell is wrong with me? Where did I see balsa in this thread?

I just went back to the OP to see what thickness I needed to pick up, and there's no mention of the stuff. I've got to stop posting when I'm half asleep.

If he's talking about that birch 5 ply, the Rockwell will run through it no problem. The only question is whether or not it's stable enough for his required level of precision, and whether or not it's got the dimensions.

You are limited in how wide a sheet you can rip, though. That arm is not a feature found on a table saw, and it does occasionally get in the way when you're working with larger sheets.

 

[RickP330]

Thanks Guys,
I'll try it with my Jigsaw propped up like a table saw and let you know how it goes. That may be good. My Scroll saw just takes too long to make big cuts. A lot of good stuff here. Thanks again!
RP

 

[6PTsocket]

I use Bosch blades in mine, actually.

The stores around here just don't have a good selection.

If I drive by the hobby store tonight, I'll buy some balsa and give it a shot if I can just get a small piece for a few bucks. It's worth trying just to see what happens.

Haven't made anything "precise" with balsa since the Pinewood Derby. [emoji38]

It's a pretty unique material with nearly unlimited uses. I just don't use it... LOL

I used to build model airplanes as a kid and used a lot of it but like you, I gave not worked with it for a long time. I just read that the neighborhood hobby shop is closing after many years if a buyer cannot be found, because the owner is ready to retire. It is always sad to see another family business close and be replaced by some chain that has a store in every mall.

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[RickP330]

I used to build model airplanes as a kid and used a lot of it but like you, I gave not worked with it for a long time. I just read that the neighborhood hobby shop is closing after many years if a buyer cannot be found, because the owner is ready to retire. It is always sad to see another family business close and be replaced by some chain that has a store in every mall.

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This is the golden age for kit builders. You can still just about buy any kit you remember NIB on Ebay and build it. That wont' last forever. Building kits is a lost art and sad to say that I'm on leading edge of it's demise.

There are no kit mfg's anymore, it's all Ready to fly from China but I digress...
RP

PS sad to say because I am really not very good at it!!!!