To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Miniature Abrasive Saw Modifications

brittf

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
91
I started researching brake lines for my 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback project. I'm creating all the hydraulic and fuel lines in stainless steel. One comment I found from one vendor was to cut the lines with a chop saw/cutoff wheel rather than a tubing cutter. I wanted to make sure I had square ends, and did not want to use my large Makita chop saw so I turned to the Internet to see what I could find. I stumbled across the Grizzly G8183 4 1/2" Angle Grinder Stand. This turns your 4 1/2" grinder into a metal-cutting chop saw.


The Grizzly G8183 4 1/2" Angle Grinder Stand as advertised in the Grizzly catalog.


All the parts out of the box and on my bench. My Makita 4 1/2" grinder in the background. I mounted a 1/16" cut off wheel in it.


Here it is all put together.

I was not very happy with the overall quality. While the stand that holds the grinder appears to be well built the base left a lot to be desired. So I embarked on making improvements.

I took all the necessary measurements from the base and drew them up in Fusion 360, a free web-based CAD system from Autodesk. I created a .dxf file and took it to a local water jet company. I cut the base out of 3/16" cold rolled plate.


I had all the slots and mounting holes cut by the water jet. I forgot to add the corner holes to the drawing. The plate is designed to be bolted down at all four corners to my StrongHand bench. The plate is 11 1/4" square with 10" between holes. Here I'm marking the four corner holes.


These were then drilled out to 13/32"


I needed feet on it to raise the plate off the bench (there are nuts underneath and they needed clearance). I had a piece of 1 1/4" cold rolled round bar in my scrap heap. Here I am cutting the feet on my band saw. I measured one and cut four.


They needed to be drilled out so I chucked them in my lath. Here I am drilling with a center drill.


Here I am drilling an 1/8" pilot hole.


And final drilling with a 7/16" bit.


The feet are tack welded to the bottom of the plate.


The angle adjuster is bolted on. I welded two 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" angles to the bottom to capture the nuts so they won't turn when adjusting the angle of the cut.


Here it is in the finished state with the parts necessary to bolt it to the bench.


Here it is all bolted down and ready to cut a piece of 3/16" brake tubing. I'm not happy with the clamping device. I think I'm going to fabricate a new one with a piece of Acme thread that acts more like a vice.


Britt
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

pdangerp

Active member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
41
That looks really nice. That also looks like a ton of work to be able to cut some tubing.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,106
Location
SE MI
I want some pics showing how you are bending and bubble-flaring stainless ! The Eastwood flare tool claims it does stainless.

Most of us DIYers are switching to nickel-copper tubing because it can be had formed without kinking and it is easier to flare.
 

nine4gmc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
14,357
Location
Dallas
Awesome, can't wait to see the acme thread upgrade!

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 

SilverSS1969

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
188
Location
SE MI
I want some pics showing how you are bending and bubble-flaring stainless ! The Eastwood flare tool claims it does stainless.

Most of us DIYers are switching to nickel-copper tubing because it can be had formed without kinking and it is easier to flare.

I'm also I interested in this. Been thinking of using stainless on my Camaro but have heard bad experiences about it bending and flaring.

Why did they recommend cutting with chop saw over tube cutter? I'd image you'd have to flush the system really well before hooking the lines up when using a chop saw?
 

dmw16

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
291
A friend of mine just got the Eastwood tool and loves it.

Nice job on this mod...but what's left of the original? :)
 

bullnerd

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
5,690
Location
Jersey
Nice, always thought one of those bases would be cool with a dual saw attached to it.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

WhoWhatNow

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
1,884
Location
Collegeville, PA
Nice work.

I have the same grinder mount and as bad as the base is I find it is the clamping device that makes it completely useless. I like the idea of making something that uses a clamping screw instead. Possibly something similar to the vise on a horizontal band saw.
 

1wook

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
42
Location
Central MN
Nice work, I knew it'd be good when I seen a optical punch. You never know when you see a strong hand table, but when you see an optical punch being used you know it's going to the next level of quality!

What's the "rotisserie" in the background?
 

the gypsy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
1,780
Location
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
I like the idea that I can buy a base for the angle grinder, but seeing as I do not have the ability to modifiy or have another base built, can you tell us less capable what was it about the base that you disliked.
 
OP
B

brittf

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
91
Nice job.
Thanks!

That looks really nice. That also looks like a ton of work to be able to cut some tubing.
For me it's a lot about fabricating something. Sometimes I never really finish the original project I started because I'm off fabricating a tool or something to finish it. Catch 22 I guess.

Great job, every time I see your stronghold table :drool:
My StrongHand table is one of the best purchases in the shop. I've had my shop 10 years now and I didn't purchase the table until five years ago. Should have been the first fixture I bought before I even started any projects.

I want some pics showing how you are bending and bubble-flaring stainless ! The Eastwood flare tool claims it does stainless.
I'm going to start an new thread on how I design and fabricate brake lines. It may answer your questions.

Most of us DIYers are switching to nickel-copper tubing because it can be had formed without kinking and it is easier to flare.
I thought about going that way because of the ease of using nickel-copper tubing. But it's not as shiny as stainless steel.

What didn't you like about the original base?
It was too flimsy and the clamp would not stay tight and anything held in the jaws moved once touched by the cutoff disc. I should have measured the gage of the metal used but I tossed it before I could. I'm guessing it was 20 gage or thinner.

Awesome, can't wait to see the acme thread upgrade!
Still working on this upgrade but it is needed. I'm now using a strap clamp to hold the material to be cut in place. While it works it is cumbersome.

I'm also I interested in this. Been thinking of using stainless on my Camaro but have heard bad experiences about it bending and flaring.

Why did they recommend cutting with chop saw over tube cutter? I'd image you'd have to flush the system really well before hooking the lines up when using a chop saw?
I purchased all my materials for my brake lines from Online Tube. They recommend not using a standard tubing cutter because it work hardens the tube. While the cutoff saw leave leaves a burr it is easy to clean up. I plan to flush all my lines before final assembly and charged with brake fluid or gasoline. I plan to start another thread on how I design, bend and flare my lines.

A friend of mine just got the Eastwood tool and loves it.

Nice job on this mod...but what's left of the original? :)
I have the Mastercool flare tool which I believe I purchased from Eastwood. Not much left except for the mount that holds the grinder; it appears to be well made. It appears to have been made in Germany. Not sure why they skimped on the base.

Nice, always thought one of those bases would be cool with a dual saw attached to it.
Thanks. Not sure what you mean by "dual saw".

I was happy with a mount with a flatbed for my Handheld grinder and a foot pedal till I saw this :thumbup:
I have a foot switch on this as well. Makes it easier to turn the grinder on without having to reach behind it. My grinder has a paddle switch with a lock to lock it on. Too much effort needed without the foot switch. I got the foot switch from Swag Off Road for use with my Swag Off Road portaband saw stand.

Nice work.

I have the same grinder mount and as bad as the base is I find it is the clamping device that makes it completely useless. I like the idea of making something that uses a clamping screw instead. Possibly something similar to the vise on a horizontal band saw.
Yes, I agree. The clamping device is useless.

Nice work, I knew it'd be good when I seen a optical punch. You never know when you see a strong hand table, but when you see an optical punch being used you know it's going to the next level of quality!

What's the "rotisserie" in the background?
The optical punch is one of the best layout tools I ever bought. My 63 year old eyes have trouble seeing the mark let alone putting the punch in the correct place. The rotisserie is for my 1967 Ford Mustang Fastback build. I'm starting with a brand new Dynacorn all steel, Ford licensed body. Makes working on the underside and in the engine compartment much easier. You don't have to lie on your back or bend over the fenders. Wanting to try and rotate the body with the engine installed so I can fabricate the exhaust system without lying on my back. I'm planning an all stainless steel custom exhaust system.

Very nice work!
Thanks.

Looks very trick. But why did you not want to use a full size chop saw, or your band saw?
I have a Makita chop saw. It's big and bulky and takes up too much space on the bench. It would work; just wanted something smaller.

I like the idea that I can buy a base for the angle grinder, but seeing as I do not have the ability to modifiy or have another base built, can you tell us less capable what was it about the base that you disliked.
The clamping method leaves a lot to be desired. You might be able to make it work but you probably won't be happy with it.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.


Britt
 
OP
B

brittf

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
91
I thought I'd post some more information about use of the miniature chop saw.


Until I come up with a better clamping system I'm using a strap clamp to hold the tubing in place. With the new, thicker steel table I'm able to clamp it tightly without fear of any movement.


This picture compares the end of the 3/16" stainless steel tubing cut with the abrasive saw (top) and with a tubing cutter (bottom). There is a burr to deal with when cut with the abrasive saw. I've read that using a tubing cutter will work harden the material. Stainless steel is already hard to work without adding work hardening to the equation.


The burr cleans up real nicely with these tools. From left to right the Eastwood tool cleans up the outside burr; the drill cleans up the inside burr; and the counter sink further prepares the tube for flaring. A number 30 drill bit works good for 3/16" tubing; a number 11 drill bit works good for 1/4" tubing. I haven't determined the drill size required for 3/8" tubing but I will once I get to my fuel lines.


I also use the saw to cut stainless steel hose. Here is the end before cutting.


Here's the end after cutting. Very clean cut. You just need to make sure you clean out the hose real good before putting it into use.


To keep the hose square in the saw I used a piece of angle iron and a strap clamp. This is beginning to give me ideas for a vice-style clamping device.

Thank you for looking. Let me know if you have any additional question and I'll try and answer them.


Britt
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
This picture compares the end of the 3/16" stainless steel tubing cut with the abrasive saw (top) and with a tubing cutter (bottom). There is a burr to deal with when cut with the abrasive saw. I've read that using a tubing cutter will work harden the material. Stainless steel is already hard to work without adding work hardening to the equation.

If anything will work harden the material, it will be cutting it on the chop saw over using a tubing cutter.

Nice job on the saw though. I think I could use something like that.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
A couple things, on occasion I cut tubing with a grinder but I can zip it off by eye and I got to agree about hardening. I have seen double flare seats crack when used for hyd which I suspect is from the cut. I usually take a few swipes with a file after the fact but have been getting away from the saw and using the tubing cutter.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom