MiniSplit over window on header?

[guruuno]

I am having a Mitsubishi MSZ-FH09NA & MUZ-FH09NA installed. After careful research, this is the unit I am specifying to my contractor. However, I really, really, really want to have it centered over the top of a double window (5'5" wide), and the ceiling at that wall is 8'6", leaving me 1'11" from the top of the windows to the ceiling. The walls are wide open, room is gutted, and I'd love to route all the tubing, drains, electric, etc., to the left and out the side wall to the outside condenser unit, not having to run it straight out the back and out the wall giving an unpleasant look to the exterior of the home.

The space above the header over the windows where the jack studs go above to the top plate is about maybe 12"-13". However, the 2-1/2" to 3" hole required for the drain and other items might come too close to the header, can it be notched, and then run to the left out the side wall all enclosed in the walls, pitched for draining in a PVC tube of course (the drain), or am I looking for a problem with construction code messing around with headers, supports, etc.? THe condenser will be located on the side of the home away from the back where the windows are, all less then 8-10 feet.

I don't want a floor or ceiling mounted unit, as then I'd lose the 30.5 SEER efficiency rating of the unit.

Alternately, how can I make it all look pretty?

 

[Tislane]

I try to go into the attic, below the floor, or outside with the refrigerant lines as soon as possible to keep from weakening the studs.

Do an internet search for mini split line cover if you need to go outside, around the corner and down. It is a very clean look.

 

[75gmck25]

Putting 2 1/2" to 3" holes in outside wall studs is not a good idea, so if you want to go out to the left side, I'd also vote for a lineset cover. If you put the lines on the outside of the building and paint the lineset housing the same color as the siding, it should blend in with the siding.

You could probably go left through only one stud (reinforced appropriately) bring the lines down inside the stud bay, and then run the lineset outside, across, and around the corner at about knee-level where it would be even less visible.

Bruce

 

[APEowner]

That wall would need to be re-framed to put the unit where you want it. The header would have to be moved up above the unit. Holes as large as you're talking about are a bad idea to run through the studs.

You could build a soffit to hide the lines or make the whole wall thicker but either way you need to do something with the framing that to carry the load down to the floor. You can't just cut out the studs above the window.

You can cut the studs under the window and install the unit there.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The space above the header over the windows where the jack studs go above to the top plate is about maybe 12"-13". However, the 2-1/2" to 3" hole required for the drain and other items might come too close to the header, can it be notched, and then run to the left out the side wall all enclosed in the walls, ...

Window and door headers are typically solid from the interior wall covering to the exterior sheathing. Notching it still may not give you the clearance to "turn left" inside the wall cavity.

That wall would need to be re-framed to put the unit where you want it. The header would have to be moved up above the unit.

That sounds a bit crazy, but it is really a good idea and not that hard to do with the wall open !

Remove the jack and king studs on the side of the window. Remove the cripples and the header. Cut new jack studs that position the header up against the top plate. Replace the other studs.

Holes as large as you're talking about are a bad idea to run through the studs.

Agreed. While the refrigerant tubing, electrical drain all can go though the one hole on the back of the unit, I highly recommend making multiple, smaller holes though the studs.

It is very difficult to make tight 90° bend in the refrigerant tubing without kinking ! The installer may have to cut the tubing into sections, pre-bend the corners and then braze the tubing back together (using a large fireproof shield in front of the insulation) or use the appropriate "hard" elbow and flare fittings. Remember to insulate all refrigerant tubing. Make sure to use "shields" on the studs over each of these.

The installer will obviously add $$$ for this work !

 

[Gravedigger]

I put a mini split partially over a bay window. The original window in the house was larger than the one in now. I used a 4" hole saw to drill through header but there was support studs on both sides of the hole.

Remember there is a condensate drain line and it only uses gravity.

 

[Jackfre]

Given that it is over a window, how about building a 2-3" bump out on the header. Plywood face that and you would have an opening behind the ms.Not the best solution, but may help as the air flow will overhang and be ahead of your frilly curtains. Then you can clear the studs for your drops into the wall.

 

[brewchief]

Just use line hide to get over to the wall on the left. If your already OK with hanging a big box on the wall a little bit of line hide should be no big deal, unit probably has knockouts on the side designed for it.