Minnesota Garage Ceiling Materials

[Shhted]

Hello y'all. I have a 3 car attached garage that I've slowly been insulating/finishing. The walls are insulated and drywalled and I have insulated doors. My ceiling is about 1/2 completed with insulation batts and I intend to finish in a few weeks. I have no heat source apart from a Big Buddy. I've worked out there in winter after running the heater and it's tolerable, but not ideal. Completing the insulation and ceiling will certainly make it more habitable. I don't intend on making it tshirt weather out there, but warm enough to tinker on my motorcycles would be nice.

Question is: Drywall or other material to finish the ceiling? I've seen OSB, T&G Pine, Ply, Corrugated metal or fiberglass, etc. I can't find any direct guidance in MN Building Codes, but not my specialty either. It's not intended to be extended living space or a showcase, just passable for a tinkers shop.

 

[Kaizen]

Can’t speak to codes in your area. I’m resolved to use metal for ease of install. Probably comparable to plywood. Thought about drywall but really love the clean finish of metal. Haven’t priced out all options though.


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[Damon L.]

I'm doing steel in my (southern) MN pole shed for the ceiling. My rafters are 2' on center, so I could do whatever, but the steel is light weight and pre-finished. Quick and easy.

 

[bdbecker]

Is there habitable space above the garage? If so, you'll probably have to use 5/8" drywall to comply with fire code.

 

[Gvos]

I used white steel for the ceiling. Reflects the light well.

 

[Jazz1]

Use 5/8" drywall. Its CHEAP!!. Make sure you install vapour barrier prior to drywall. If you insulate/vapour barrier/ drywall little heat will be required to make the building warm enough. I'm up the road aways from you and keep my garage t-shirt warm when working.

 

[wasfuzz]

Alot depends on your roof trusses, some have said use 5/8 rock - way to heavy if you don't have the right type of roof trusses. You could pull the whole roof down on your head!

 

[climb.on]

I've never heard of trusses not being able to support sheetrock. If it can't support sheetrock, how the hell is it supposed to support a snow load?

In any case, my vote is for steel. Fast, light, bright, and it is up and done. Menards stocks it in white. I hate hanging rock on the ceiling (or anywhere for that matter).

 

[Firebrick43]

I would suggest 5/8 type c drywall. Type c has a higher rating than X and 10 times standard drywall. Or at miniumum type X. Being an attached garage it might save you or your families life some day. Vehicles have been known to catch fire. Back when fords were burning up a friends family was saved due to his builder building a firewall and a fire rated ceiling. In fact little damage was done to the house. I have seen several late model Chevys burn.

If it was detached I would agree on the metal.

 

[jonshonda]

If I remember correctly code in WI mandates the use of dry wall, and maybe even two layers.

 

[Marctrees]

If you go w Steel, make sure you check out Menards and their lighter ga ? "Liner" ? panels.

Probably will be least expensive source and matl for your purpose.

And realize you can order cut to length.

Marc

Marc

 

[No Noise Dude]

ShhTed, I’ll be following your thread very closely. I’m in the same boat and looking to not only insulate, but sheetrock the interior of my 20 x 30 attached garage. I’m thinking seriously of using 8-inch tongue and groove, but not entirely sure if local code will allow me to. May have to default to Sheetrock.

 

[rburke65]

Metal ceiling liner. Shoot the screws and your finished. No mud, no sanding, no primer, no paint, no paint...yes I know....that’s the second coat.....no mess. Can’t get much easier than that.

 

[xjfish]

I'm "rocking" 5/8" Sheetrock. It was possibly easier than steel to cut/hang around existing ceiling outlets and openings? If i was to do this again I would probably go with steel...