Misalignment at rafter mending plates

[Adam Baker]

Looking for some suggestions on how to deal w/ an issue with the roof rafters in a garage my mom had built.

I've noticed on a couple of the roof rafters, where the mending plate is located on the bottom chord, the 2 2x8's that make the bottom chord aren't flush with each other, leaving a step, at least one of them is probably 1/2-3/4" tall.

The rafters are loft rafters and we plan on putting down subfloor to use the area for storage. Because of this step in the bottom chord, it appears that it's going to make laying down subfloor a lot more difficult. What is the best way to deal w/ this? Everything I see says do not cut the rafters so I didn't want to go that route.

My initial thought was to figure out where the highest spot is, and then sandwich 2x4 or 2x6 to each of the rafters to create a higher spot in which to attach the subfloor, but I'm honestly not sure if this the best option or if some other method would be better.

 

[wrenchguy]

If the clinch plate ain't in the way, just power plane it flush and feather back bout 2' to zero.

 

[The Cobbler]

rather than plane an engineered truss,and altering the dimensions, I would shim the low side . or better yet, ask the contractor to get an approval from the truss manufacturer.
were they aware you were putting a sub floor on the chords>

 

[Adam Baker]

Yea, I told the contractor that we would be putting flooring down. Unfortunately I wasn't present when the rafters were installed otherwise I'd have rejected the rafters that have this problem.

I had considered shimming to make up the difference. I guess that would be easier than trying to marry a new piece of wood to each rafter.

I hadn't considered contacting the contractor to talk to the trust manufacturer. Definitely worth a shot to see what they say. Thank you for that suggestion.

 

[Kaizen]

A lot easier to lay a piece on top of the low ones. Sistering is second option but the weight of the floor wouldn’t be directly on the truss. So you should be using more then screws.
If you are just laying a floor for storage just get it close. String some lines and mark how much space. Remember the trusses will deflect when adding the floor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wrenchguy]

Looks like i stimulated some action. Yea check with manufacturer and please report back. Maybe the same answer i got in writing from the truss manufacturer i was dealing with 10 years ago. Floor engineered systems are not minimally engineered. Using a masons dryline end to end along truss chords could drive you crazy. They don't use straight material. Taper shim if mend plate is in the way. Gook luck with ur project.

 

[Kenstone1]

If one 2x is higher than the other and the higher one is in the proper position I don't see any need to change anything.
Considering that any standard floor joist in a conventional floor is only one 2x wide anyways.

That and I suspect the loft will only be for light storage because of the span, not the joist width/thickness.
If that doesn't satisfy your concerns, just sister a 2x next the LOW 2x8 that is flush with the HIGH 2x8 but know you will be adding extra weight, not necessary in my view but hay it's your deal.
jmo,
.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Yea, I told the contractor that we would be putting flooring down. Unfortunately I wasn't present when the rafters were installed otherwise I'd have rejected the rafters that have this problem.

I had considered shimming to make up the difference. I guess that would be easier than trying to marry a new piece of wood to each rafter.

I hadn't considered contacting the contractor to talk to the trust manufacturer. Definitely worth a shot to see what they say. Thank you for that suggestion.

If they’re already installed...
does that constitute acceptance?

Don’t really see an issue; once the plywood is down (glued&screwed), it’s pretty much tied together- don’t see it going anywhere.

 

[TractorJeff]

How many is a "couple"?
If it is for storage, then just "glue and screw" the floor and forget about it.
If it really bugs you then shim as suggested in other replies.

 

[Busted Knucles]

Have the truss manufacturer come out and fix it.

 

[spudley]

Both the truss manufacturer and the contractor installing the shoddy truss(s) should be accountable. I'd expect your contractor to fix it for you, but since they didn't notice the misalignment while installing, I wouldn't count on them to correct anything.

So if it were my bldg, I'd cut 4' long tapered 2x "wedges" from the misaligned difference of 1/2 -3/4" to 0" and glue/screw them on top of the low side.

Cut these wedges using a tapering jig on a table saw, or snap a line and free hand cut with a circle saw or bandsaw. Flooring won't notice slightly imperfect wedges.

 

[Joemctag]

Maybe forget the contractor because he wasn’t gonna provide a floor and it didn’t matter if the trusses gave a flush top surface for your present project. Assuming they’re trusses and the truss company thought they were ok. The bottom surface probably IS flush, huh? I’d maybe use strips of plywood or OSB, but tapered solid wood is ok. Use a lot of polyurethane construction adhesive in the tubes. The shims might split. Like he said, keep he load over the chord, not off to the side. Good luck!

 

[Joemctag]

I had missed where you told the contractor you’d be doing flooring.