Misc. questions

[dmcintosh]

So, working on installing the receptacles in the garage, in the EMT that I’ve run to make the space usable. Haven’t done much with stranded wire in the past. I put in one ground wire and it frayed really badly - see the picture below. A quixk internet search suggests that if I twist the wire counter clockwise and the bend around the screw clockwise it will prevent this. Does this really work? If not what is the best/correct way to overcome this?

And, for the opposite wall, I’d like to pull power from the existing in-wall GFCI (the only original one in the whole space) to add a few more receptacles. I was hoping to use this: https://www.garvinindustries.com/53...v-5wItkjMT-Y-_4Rn3TXjGYSGKt-fIgRoC7pwQAvD_BwE but with shipping it’ll be >$25. Any other options? My local supply house can only get the, if I order a whole case.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

yes it does work. ive done it

you could also use stak-ons

 

[Terry D]

Use back wired receptacles and switches. Easiest thing for stranded wire. They dont cost that much more

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[dmcintosh]

Thanks. I’ll let you know how I make out when I get back out there this weekend.

 

[Pingel85]

Couple options-
1. Buy box grounding pigtails, has the screw on a wire so it doesn’t come apart. Most expensive.
2. Use staycon* forks (crimp connectors). Easiest to use, but more time consuming.
3. What I usually do is strip about an 1” of wire. Then I will strip another 1/8” and slide that small piece of insulation to the end of the wire (but do not remove it). You then have 1/8” insulated wire followed by an 1” stripped, which is enough to wrap around the screw, and the insulation prevents the wire from unstranding

Let me know if I didn’t explain that very well

 

[dmcintosh]

Couple options-
1. Buy box grounding pigtails, has the screw on a wire so it doesn’t come apart. Most expensive.
2. Use staycon* forks (crimp connectors). Easiest to use, but more time consuming.
3. What I usually do is strip about an 1” of wire. Then I will strip another 1/8” and slide that small piece of insulation to the end of the wire (but do not remove it). You then have 1/8” insulated wire followed by an 1” stripped, which is enough to wrap around the screw, and the insulation prevents the wire from unstranding

Let me know if I didn’t explain that very well

Thanks. I saw this method pop up too when I searched yesterday for a solution. I like the idea of the pigtails, but that wont solve my issue with the hot and neutrals.

Hoping to get out there again after work today to give some of these ideas a try.

 

[teamextreme]

I've seen those extension boxes in the big-box stores around here. That is the ticket for adding on to an existing in-wall outlet. The tips above for stranded wire are good. I don't use stranded for the reasons you are running into. No need for it.

 

[dmcintosh]

So I tried to do the counter-clockwise winding trick and had mixed success. I threw in the Towle and just bought the spade connectors. It did add an additional step to the process, but I feel much more comfortable with the soundness of the connections. Defiantly wouldn’t want to do a large job this way, but it worked for the half dozen outlets I was installing.

 

[u2slow]

After you land the spade'd green wire on the box screw... how are you bonding your device?

Another trick is to expose the copper for about an inch, say 6" back from the end. Do a u-turn around the screw. Use the remaining 6" tail to pickup the device, or make the next splice.

I prefer solid wire (#14 or 12) for branch circuits in buildings, and with EMT, I prefer to skip the bond/EGC conductor.

 

[Norcal]

One way to terminate stranded wire is strip about 1 1/4" back from the end of the wire, and pull back enough to wrap around the screw, but do not remove the insulation from the end, twisting the wire a bit before wrapping it around the screw will keep it tight. Keeping the insulation on the end keeps loose strands contained. It's not my favorite method but works pretty well, used to be annoyed when when I saw it, but in those times when I need it glad to know to do it, still prefer what I consider the proper devices.

 

[AntonLargiader]

When are plastic bushings needed on conduit like that?

 

[dmcintosh]

After you land the spade'd green wire on the box screw... how are you bonding your device?

Another trick is to expose the copper for about an inch, say 6" back from the end. Do a u-turn around the screw. Use the remaining 6" tail to pickup the device, or make the next splice.

I prefer solid wire (#14 or 12) for branch circuits in buildings, and with EMT, I prefer to skip the bond/EGC conductor.

In the future I think I’ll just go with the solid wire. So much easier. Fortunately, it’s just a home shop, so probably won’t have to much more electrical to do.

 

[dmcintosh]

One way to terminate stranded wire is strip about 1 1/4" back from the end of the wire, and pull back enough to wrap around the screw, but do not remove the insulation from the end, twisting the wire a bit before wrapping it around the screw will keep it tight. Keeping the insulation on the end keeps loose strands contained. It's not my favorite method but works pretty well, used to be annoyed when when I saw it, but in those times when I need it glad to know to do it, still prefer what I consider the proper devices.

That’s and interesting idea too.

 

[dmcintosh]

When are plastic bushings needed on conduit like that?

This is my first go round with EMT. I didn’t use any plastic bushings. Was I supposed to?

 

[DeeKay]

This is my first go round with EMT. I didn’t use any plastic bushings. Was I supposed to?

I think you're fine, I've only ever used plastic bushings on machinery to help prevent rubs from vibration and on stuff that had awkward pulls.

 

[Pingel85]

4 gauge wire and larger requires a plastic bushing. So your 14s and 12s are good to go.