Miscellaneous wiring questions.

[green.bubbly]

Started wiring a bathroom today. I have two 20 amps circuits using 12/2 Romex. One circuit for the heater and one for the lights and receptacles.

1. I am looking for a neater way of stapling multiple Romex lines to the stud. There are several places with two and three Romex lines running down the same stud.

I came across this online but I am open to suggestions...

2. How many runs of 12/2 Romex can I run through a 1" or 1.5" hole? I know that if they are run together for over 24", then they are considered bundled and may need to be derated. But they will simply run through a hole and then go on their merry separate way.

3. Does the six foot receptacle spacing apply in bathrooms as well? Between my last vanity receptacle and the bathtub is more than six feet. My toilet will be in that 6' space. I could easily add another receptacle but did not really want one near the tub or toilet.

4. I need to run Romex through the metal junction box on the bathroom fan/heater/light combo. I need a Romex clamp to insert in the junction box knockout. I am assuming that the clamp below is for conduit but I can not find one designed for Romex (or I don't know what I am looking for). Can anyone lead me in the right direction?

 

[moserjj]

Those red wire standoffs work pretty well if you have 4 or more wires running down a 2x4. I didn't use them on 2x6 walls as they get expensive. You can double up romex under one staple just be careful doing it. You have to have an outlet for every 4' counter like in a kitchen but I wouldn't put one between the vanity and tub. Look for some black or grey plastic push-in connectors for the fan. Ask for them at your hardware store. I would never mess with those metal conduit connectors. I would run 4 or 5 wires through a 1" hole. I don't usually even drill them that big, usually 3/4 or 7/8. A 1 1/2" hole is way too large for wire run

 

[green.bubbly]

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, 1.5" is a little big. I was using an 11/16 bit and it was a little tight trying to get three wires through it. I will be picking up a couple of 1 inch bits.

The push in connectors, are you talking about something like this?

or this...

 

[Gooch]

go with the second one as it will take up less space for connections in the fan(almost every fart fan i've installed has very limited space for connections)

 

[moserjj]

Yes the 2nd thing. I usually get them in a big bag and they are easy to use. Make sure to get some speedbor bits for drilling holes.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I need to run Romex through the metal junction box on the bathroom fan/heater/light combo. I need a Romex clamp to insert in the junction box knockout. I am assuming that the clamp below is for conduit but I can not find one designed for Romex (or I don't know what I am looking for). Can anyone lead me in the right direction?

This one would work fine, or the plastic ones, or metal ones that snap in rather than attach with the nut. Any of them are acceptable. I would pick something and stick with it. It looks better to inspectors, or others in the future, if you are consistent in what you do. Same part for the same function, throughout.

The metal romex to box connector shown (which is not a conduit connector in any way) is generally approved for two 14/2 or 12/2 (w/grd) romex/NM cables in one clamp. Some of the plastic ones are too.

Personally, being a mechanical kind of person, I don't care for the snap in or plastic ones, but there is nothing at all wrong with them when properly installed.

Charles

 

[hockey2pt0]

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, 1.5" is a little big. I was using an 11/16 bit and it was a little tight trying to get three wires through it. I will be picking up a couple of 1 inch bits.

What size studs do you have, 2x4 or 2x6, I'm fairly certain you can only drill a hole 1/6 the stud width.

 

[green.bubbly]

What size studs do you have, 2x4 or 2x6, I'm fairly certain you can only drill a hole 1/6 the stud width.

There are some 2x4 walls. From what I have read, the hole can be no more than 40% of the width on a load bearing wall and 60% of a non-load bearing wall. On a load bearing 2x4 wall, the maximum hole size would be about 1 3/16".


Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Falcon67]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't fart fans required to be on a GFCI now? I may be thinking of something else.

 

[moserjj]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't fart fans required to be on a GFCI now? I may be thinking of something else.

I just finished rough-in wiring for my new house and the fans are on the GFCI circuit though they are above the shower which made that required. I made sure to put at least 1 light not on the GFCI circuit so if it trips it didn't go completely dark in there.

OP - I also recommend a timer switch for your fan. I'm using ones that also sense humidity and turn on automatically (also have timers in them)

 

[Falcon67]

OP - I also recommend a timer switch for your fan. I'm using ones that also sense humidity and turn on automatically (also have timers in them)

Yes - timers are great for this application. I used these in the old house remodel:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_156020-9532...tURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=countdown+timer&facetInfo=

 

[green.bubbly]

I just finished rough-in wiring for my new house and the fans are on the GFCI circuit though they are above the shower which made that required. I made sure to put at least 1 light not on the GFCI circuit so if it trips it didn't go completely dark in there.

OP - I also recommend a timer switch for your fan. I'm using ones that also sense humidity and turn on automatically (also have timers in them)

It is my understanding that they need to be on a GFCI only if they are over a tub/shower.

Thanks for the timer reminder. I planned on putting one in the master bath but not in this bath as it will hardly get used. But that might change one day so I just as well install one in this bath as well.

 

[moserjj]

I'm using the humidity timer switches because my darn in-laws come to visit and they are so freakin cheap they won't turn the fans even though they are mold crazy. When they leave I have to go around and turn up all the dimmer switches they've used as they are all on their lowest setting possible. They drive me bonkers! Plus, with the humidity switch, it will turn back on if needed after they try and shut it off and leave the bathroom. I've finally gotten them to stop unscrewing "unnecessary" light bulbs too

 

[hockey2pt0]

There are some 2x4 walls. From what I have read, the hole can be no more than 40% of the width on a load bearing wall and 60% of a non-load bearing wall. On a load bearing 2x4 wall, the maximum hole size would be about 1 3/16".


Thanks for all the replies.

Ok, I new there was a limit, just wasn't what I thought it was. It makes sense though to have a larger hole on a non load bearing wall.