Svorhees
Member
Hi all, been lingering here for a little while soaking up some info. I am putting to gether a wood working shop in my 3 car garage and was wondering how much length I need to consider for the miter saw bench, any suggestions?
Miter saw bench length?
- Thread starter Svorhees
- Start date
csp
Well-known member
Make it as long as you have room for. Offset the saw to one side by 1/4 to 1/3 with the side you offset it depending on if you're right handed or left handed.
Incorporate other stationary equipment that you can into the fence, assuming you're going to use a fence/stop for repeatable cuts.
Incorporate other stationary equipment that you can into the fence, assuming you're going to use a fence/stop for repeatable cuts.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
When I operated my custom woodworking shop, I really didn't do much mitering that called for a long permanent miter table. I have three power portable miter saws (8", 10" & 16") and simply used them on my large 5' x 5' workbench with roller stands at each end as needed.
For small precision miters I used my 6 x 48 vertical belt sander with a simple jig for doing mostly 45 degree joints, I preferred cutting the small molding to a suitable length and sanding the angle which produced almost invisible joints.
For small precision miters I used my 6 x 48 vertical belt sander with a simple jig for doing mostly 45 degree joints, I preferred cutting the small molding to a suitable length and sanding the angle which produced almost invisible joints.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
When I operated my custom woodworking shop, I really didn't do much mitering that called for a long permanent miter table. I have three power portable miter saws (8", 10" & 16") and simply used them on my large 5' x 5' workbench with roller stands at each end as needed.
For small precision miters I used my 6 x 48 vertical belt sander with a simple jig for doing mostly 45 degree joints, I preferred cutting the small molding to a suitable length and sanding the angle which produced almost invisible joints.
For small precision miters I used my 6 x 48 vertical belt sander with a simple jig for doing mostly 45 degree joints, I preferred cutting the small molding to a suitable length and sanding the angle which produced almost invisible joints.
James-W
Well-known member
I am in agreement on this. I rarely need to miter really long pieces, so I just use my miter saw on a stand with extendable arms that reach out about 4 feet on each side. Truth is, mostly I use the miter saw to cut long pieces into shorter pieces. I set up a stop and then I can cut all the pieces at exactly the same length.
I have not tried doing miter joints with a floor model belt sander, I will have to try that and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip.
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Cyberbear
Well-known member
Of course, the same technique can be done using a small to medium disc sander and a wooden jig that drops into the miter slide groove. I've had good results from both methods.
MushCreek
Well-known member
My miter saw (Ridgid 12") lives on it's portable stand. It has it's own supports about 4' out, and I use roller stands for longer stuff. It all folds up and goes away in under a minute.
Kaizen
Well-known member
you will not be doing a lot of long length stock with miter's in there as you would if you were installing crown molding. so you really are going to be using it to take down boards to smaller pieces. mine is centered on a 12 foot wall with 6 feet of bench on either side and 4 feet of air past the left bench. Haven't had a problem. anything that doesn't work I pull out the circular saw
vartz04
Well-known member
Agreed. I think the Miter saw is a wood working tool that does not deserve a dedicated space. Get a folding stand and the saw can hang on the wall or go on a shelf and the stand can hang on the wall.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Agreed... set the chop saw up so it utilizes an existing workbench.
astroracer
Well-known member
My miter saw goes on a fold down work stand when I need to use it. For long pieces I have a couple of adjustable height roller stands. Works well and breaks down to nothing when not in use. 
Mark
Mark
I scored this at HD during a christmas sale for 99 bucks.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-M...gclid=CN7ihuCak8oCFYeRHwodeN0Gww&gclsrc=aw.ds
I shoulda bought this years ago, even at the msrp. It's immensely useful, esp. with roller stands for the long stuff and the fact that i'm space-constrained. Unless you've got mountains of free space for a miter-specific bench (if so then lucky you!), a rolling stand like this is so much more flexible.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-M...gclid=CN7ihuCak8oCFYeRHwodeN0Gww&gclsrc=aw.ds
I shoulda bought this years ago, even at the msrp. It's immensely useful, esp. with roller stands for the long stuff and the fact that i'm space-constrained. Unless you've got mountains of free space for a miter-specific bench (if so then lucky you!), a rolling stand like this is so much more flexible.
kylefitz
Well-known member
I guess I will be the one to be different. I think it deserves a dedicated space if you use it to break down stock to rough lengths like I use my radial arm saw. I would off set it away from your dominant hand so you can hold your work piece.
Wow, excellent feed back guys. Like I stated I am in the design/layout phase so based upon other equimpment location, I will determine what I need for wall space and see if being portable is going to be a requirement. I guess I was just automatically thinking it should be fixed so I wouldn't have to break it out each time I needed it. Thanks for the feedback.
TerryH
Well-known member
I guess I'll respectfully disagree with the miter saws not having a dedicated space. I use mine all the time. Much nicer for it to have it's own space with extension tables, permanent dust control etc... I built tables that are 58" to the left and 36" to the right. I used a Rockler T track and stop.
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Jon_E
Well-known member
My Bosch miter saw resides on a Ridgid MS-UV folding stand. I take it out when I need it and put it away when I am done. I wouldn't devote any permanent space in a shop to a miter saw.
Having said that - I also have a large 1950's vintage Delta radial arm saw with a 14" blade. I am planning on setting that up permanently along the 36' long back wall of my garage shop. The rest of the space will be taken up by mobile machines and tool/lumber storage.
Of course, if you use the miter saw frequently for a woodworking hobby, then it doesn't hurt to set it up permanently on a cabinet with fences, stops, dust collection, etc.
I can't really see needing to cut anything much over 12' long so that's what I would leave to the left (or right? depending on your preferences) of the blade. Probably half that to the other side? Anything larger would get cut to length somewhere else.
If you're always doing 12' - 16'+ crown moldings and trim work then you have a unique circumstance and a permanent installation might be difficult.
Having said that - I also have a large 1950's vintage Delta radial arm saw with a 14" blade. I am planning on setting that up permanently along the 36' long back wall of my garage shop. The rest of the space will be taken up by mobile machines and tool/lumber storage.
Of course, if you use the miter saw frequently for a woodworking hobby, then it doesn't hurt to set it up permanently on a cabinet with fences, stops, dust collection, etc.
I can't really see needing to cut anything much over 12' long so that's what I would leave to the left (or right? depending on your preferences) of the blade. Probably half that to the other side? Anything larger would get cut to length somewhere else.
If you're always doing 12' - 16'+ crown moldings and trim work then you have a unique circumstance and a permanent installation might be difficult.
gnpenning
Well-known member
Everyone's use is different and can change depending on the job at hand. Right now I have one on a portable collapsible stand and the other on a dedicated table. When I build carriage doors I set them both up on the same table. This way I can set it up to make different lengths cuts out of the same board without making any changes. This really speeds up production and accurateness.
I have 2 table saws as well with a common out feed table between them.
I have 2 table saws as well with a common out feed table between them.
Really depends on what you're doing - for me I'm space challenged so built this portable stand:
http://wilkerdos.com/2014/01/diy-miter-saw-stand/
Works great, and I may get a lunchbox planer and use it on the same stand.
http://wilkerdos.com/2014/01/diy-miter-saw-stand/
Works great, and I may get a lunchbox planer and use it on the same stand.
zcar751
Well-known member
I built a mobile stand for my saw and set the cutting height to match my work 7 foot work bench on the left side. On the right side the garage door is about 3 foot away so if there is any thing longer than that I just roll up the bay door and set a couple of saw horses. If I had to cut anything that that won't accommodate I can always pull the saw/stand out and set up some temporary wings.
View media item 43450
View media item 43450
atthebeach
Well-known member
After years of having to setup on a workmate in the driveway, it is a real luxury now to have a dedicated work station. I have 12' to the left (which extends across a door way) and 8' to the right. I generally don't work with stock over 10', but I do on occasion. There was a day that I was cutting a bunch of 16 footers down to size. How much length the OP needs depends on what type of work is anticipated.
I have decided to go with a permanent install, the bench will be 7' to the left and 4' to the right but I can cut up to almost 20' to left and 10' to the right hanging off the bench.
This picture brings to mind another question though, do folks prefer the power strip to the front under the lip of the bench or just above the counter on the wall in the back?
boiler7904
Well-known member
I built something identical to this for my 12" Dewalt Slider. Folds to about 4' wide when not in use and offers storage. Wings are about 32" long but in use give a little over 4' of support on each side of the blade. I add a Ridgid FlipTop stand to support anything longer than that.
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/199917670936222866/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/199917670936222866/
gnpenning
Well-known member
My powers on the wall behind the saw along with the D/C. I don't like cords in my way.
If you haven't already thought about it I make all my tables and bench's 36" high. I like having everything except 1 at the same height gives me out and in feed help if needed. This height works for me.
If you haven't already thought about it I make all my tables and bench's 36" high. I like having everything except 1 at the same height gives me out and in feed help if needed. This height works for me.
PatStroud
Well-known member
On my list of "first" projects for my new shop will be a 35' (16/3/16) work bench that will be the radial arm and miter saw station.
Toolfool
Well-known member
dave*99
Well-known member
Me too. But My Unisaw arrived after most of the benches etc. were already there. Solution: I raised up the Unisaw 1.5" to match.
And as for electrical outlets, mine are under the front edge of the workbench for use with portable power tools. I also have some receptacles on the ceiling over the rear of the workbench to power the stationary tools.
NWill
Well-known member
Here's my current setup I built when I got my house. I'll build a more permanent solution eventually. 
It's a fairly common design. Ignore the clutter
It's a fairly common design. Ignore the clutter
James-W
Well-known member
I don't understand this, please explain. If you are always cutting long pieces of crown molding, then you must be doing it as a business. In other words, you would be going to the customer's house and installing crown moldings. That being the case, why would you want to go back to your house/shop to cut the molding and then take it back to the customer's house to be installed? I would think you would want to cut the moldings on the job site and install them.
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