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Miter saw blade life

Boogerman

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Reading the "which miter saw" thread got me thinking about my saw, and it's use.

I have owned a Makita 10" double tilt, compound slider saw for about 27 years. It replaced a similar single tilt Makita. I recently got one of the 12" slider Dewalts, because it was like new and $75. I've only used it a few times so far. Not sure I like it better than the Makita.

I'm not a professional carpenter or woodworker, but I'm quite a way outside of the typical DIY class. This saw has been used continuously for those 27 years. I've done all the framing and remodel work on 2 houses with it. This included maple hardwood flooring in one house. Trimmed both those remodels with wood trim. Built a lot of particle board melamine cabinetry. I operated a low volume cabinetry shop and used it in that for a while. Did occasional remodel type work for others. Then, constructed two larger houses, about 4200 sf. Used the saw for minor framing, had the major framing subcontracted. Built all the trim myself, from 4/4 random boards to finish, and used the saw for all cuts. Oak flooring throughout both houses except for entries, baths and kitchens which were tile. Built a finished 2700 sf detached garage/shop with it at one, architecturally finished like the house. Built a lot of melamine finish particle board cabinetry for both houses and the shop. Used it to cut 1x lumber for complex concrete forms for a few years. Occasionally cut extruded aluminum and plastic also. Built another 3000 sf house and 2000 sf finished shop with it, and hand framed the complex roof so a lot of framing cuts with it. Again all hardwood floors, pre-finished this time which is supposed to be hard on blades. Built all the trim again. Continued to use it for particle board shelving and dimensional lumber for specialty concrete forms. Throughout all these house projects, it was used near daily in my shop, doing all the typical cuts needed for general contractor and milwright work.

Here's the kicker: I was just thinking about this, it still has the ORIGINAL Makita blade on it. I bought a new blade awhile back, when I did the pre-finished hickory floor, thinking the silica impregnated finish would ruin the blade. It still cuts, essentially like new. I have solvent cleaned buildup off it a few times, and probably honed the carbide tips with a diamond touchup a few times, but this is the original blade. 27 years of pretty solid use. No coddling, cut everything that comes it's way, including used, dirty, composite and pre-finished wood. I've even hit a few light nails with it. Cut quite a bit of 2 1/2 and 3" thick walnut planks also.

In the same time frame, I've probably gone through a half dozen carbide skillsaw blades, mostly because I hit steel or concrete with them. And, gone through a couple cutting hardi plank. Most framing lumber has been skillsaw cut, although I use the miter for angles and repetitive cutoffs. I've also probably worn out two or three blades on my unisaw, and used a half dozen others that I still have and trade off depending on the cutting being done.

Is this blade life exceptional in this application? How often do you change a miter saw blade if not damaged by abuse?
 
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woody 73

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It sounds like Your blade was made with fairy dust coming from special unobtanium crystals from the snap on factory. You need to frame that blade behind a glass picture frame and hang it in your man cave,(y)(y);)

I love this new google:

 

jar944

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It sounds like Your blade was made with fairy dust coming from special unobtanium crystals from the snap on factory. You need to frame that blade behind a glass picture frame and hang it in your man cave,(y)(y);)

Yep.

Lifespan is obviously usage dependent. I've killed a blade in a couple days installing 900sqft of pre-finished engineered hardwood flooring. High angle atb blades degrade faster than lower angle atb blades.
 

AEAdam

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Yeah, that’s not right. It depends on what you cut. I’m pretty busy building a house. I swap blades every year, or more frequently depending on what I’m cutting. Boral cuts like MDF, but it’s abrasive and dulls blades.

A dull blade will cut, but it will wander if you try to remove a 1/32” for example. That’s not good and not particularly safe. I guarantee your saw will cut noticeably better with a new blade.
 

American Locomotive

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I think it's not so obvious when a blade is worn on a miter saw, because a lot of miter saw cuts are short/small and very quick. I bet you would notice a big difference if you put a new blade on it.
 
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Boogerman

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A dull blade will cut, but it will wander if you try to remove a 1/32” for example. That’s not good and not particularly safe. I guarantee your saw will cut noticeably better with a new blade.
That's what got me thinking about this. I got the "new" Dewalt a couple weeks ago. Blade looks new, not even wearing into the paint. It cuts noticeably worse than the old Makita. I routinely cut tiny bits off of hard walnut, to get precise lengths. I've always done a double cut on finish work with this saw, plunge through a few thousandths away from the line, and then shave the edge to get a smoother cut. It does that without wandering, and extremely clean.

I can't even see what the old blade is to try to buy another; it is makita brand but almost all the paint/printing is worn off it beyond reading anything. Think I have a Freud or similar premium blade to replace it in the cabinet.
 

Hohn

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try a full kerf Ridge Carbide on that application. Many newer blades are thinner than ever to make cordless batteries last longer. But they vibrate much more as a result and distort much faster with heat. A thin kerf 12” vs a full kerf 10” are miles apart in cut quality.

Heat is a major killer of blades. If your mostly cutting small pieces with a heavy blade, the blade might last a long, long time.
 
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AEAdam

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That's what got me thinking about this. I got the "new" Dewalt a couple weeks ago. Blade looks new, not even wearing into the paint. It cuts noticeably worse than the old Makita. I routinely cut tiny bits off of hard walnut, to get precise lengths. I've always done a double cut on finish work with this saw, plunge through a few thousandths away from the line, and then shave the edge to get a smoother cut. It does that without wandering, and extremely clean.

I can't even see what the old blade is to try to buy another; it is makita brand but almost all the paint/printing is worn off it beyond reading anything. Think I have a Freud or similar premium blade to replace it in the cabinet.
Probably a Tenryu. I think they were the OEM for Makita. New saws skimp on blades. I use Freud. If you change blades every 27yrs, maybe splurge for some new Tenryus.
 
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Boogerman

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Probably a Tenryu. I think they were the OEM for Makita. New saws skimp on blades. I use Freud. If you change blades every 27yrs, maybe splurge for some new Tenryus.
Thanks for that. Don't think I'll buy another blade for the 10", the one one there cuts good and I have a backup Freud. I did order a blade for the 12" Dewalt to replace the new Dewalt one on there now. $46.50 for a Tenryu; I can also use it on my Makita non-slider 12" for crown molding if it doesn't work out well for the Dewalt. Might make the Dewalt into a decent saw. Price was very good; less than a Freud.

 

AEAdam

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Thanks for that. Don't think I'll buy another blade for the 10", the one one there cuts good and I have a backup Freud. I did order a blade for the 12" Dewalt to replace the new Dewalt one on there now. $46.50 for a Tenryu; I can also use it on my Makita non-slider 12" for crown molding if it doesn't work out well for the Dewalt. Might make the Dewalt into a decent saw. Price was very good; less than a Freud.

That blade is for non-sliders I think. Lost track of what saws you have. Those positive rake saws are awesome, but not on sliders. On sliders negative rake blades are superior.

oh, not sure if I’m doing it right but I push my slider blade most of the time. I don’t pull it.
 

Dakotadadv8

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Op interesting information it depends on how often you use the saw and number of cuts. I have replaced around 6 blades over 25 years cutting trim and 2x4s on the Dewalt 12 inch bought new from Home Depot. Usually can tell when blade needs replacement, I don’t sharpen I replace. I buy the best Dewalt blades available at Lowes or Home Depot $45 to $55, Spyder are not bad. Never understood why people buy cheap blades for any saws.:lol_hitti
 
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Boogerman

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That blade is for non-sliders I think. Lost track of what saws you have. Those positive rake saws are awesome, but not on sliders. On sliders negative rake blades are superior.

oh, not sure if I’m doing it right but I push my slider blade most of the time. I don’t pull it.
Hadn't thought of that; I'm not much of a woodworker, just use the equipment. When I looked at the Makita blade I have, it has that positive rake, and the Dewalt one has pretty square tooth alignment; so I went with the one that works best for me now. If the blade doesn't work in the Dewalt slider, I'll put it in my non-slider 12" Makita. I know the blade is slightly dull on it. Not sure the Dewalt is a keeper; was hoping it would replace both the 10" slider and the 12" fixed, to save some shop space.

When I bought the Freud for the 10" anticipating replacement, I remember choosing an anti-kickback blade on purpose because of the slider use. I normally just chop with the saw, usual use of the slide is when I'm cutting particle board shelving or plywood that's overly wide. So, haven't had a problem with the Makita blade, although it does have small tendency to overfeed and kick back on slider use if you don't pay attention.

Edit/PS:

Okay: Went down a rabbit hole doing a bit of research on positive vs negative rake and miter saws. Seems like most miter saws use positive, especially in hard wood. Negative rake is more for radial arm saws and pulling the sliding miter TOWARDS you, to keep it from overfeeding and stalling or kicking back into the operator. Useful in soft woods or plastic, brass or aluminum that tend to grab the blade anyway. They also minimize surface chipping, as they scrape rather than wedge chips out of the cut; thus cutting slower and taking more power. Bottom line is that the positive rake blade is pretty typical for general miter saw use.
 
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Boogerman

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Received the 100 tooth Tenryu blade; It cuts many, many times better than the Dewalt 80 tooth "Construction" labeled blade. No problems with the positive rake blade; it cuts smooth, even and fast. Probably 6 or 8 times the cut speed of the Dewalt, 1/3 of the noise, and smoother cut. Everything to like about it and no negatives. I cut both walnut and hemlock with it. The walnut cut clean without burning. The hemlock cut smooth, and had no surface chipping; which hemlock is prone to. The dewalt blade burns walnut, and chips hemlock badly.

I looked at the Dewalt blade with some magnification, it's nearly new, absolutely no damage and it's sharp, the yellow paint isn't worn off even the carbide tips. But, the negative rake just racks up crud on the face, and it cuts slow, hot, and noisy; at least on hardwoods.

The quality blade made the Dewalt saw at least the equal of my old Makita. I might buy a replacement Tenryu blade to try on the 10" also. If I don't pass it on and just keep the Dewalt.
 
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