Miter Saw - newbie

[wanttodiy]

Hello,

I apologize if I am violating any sort of forum etiquette here. I am normally the first person to recommend THE SEARCH BOX of any forum I participate in, but I am utterly lost when it comes to DIY.

I am mid 30s female (Left Handed), live with husband who has minimal if any DIY experience. My previous DIY projects have pretty much ended up more expensive and much worse quality than if I bought. I would like to learn though.

I am posting because I'm interested in Miter Saw recommendations. Since it seems like the first question would be, well, what do you want to do with the miter saw, here's my answer....

I don't like to buy junk in general. I don't need to have the best, but I want something that I don't see needing to upgrade or replace for years. I'd rather save money to buy a decent one (if needed), rather than get a cheaper one, just to be able to buy now. Projects I am interested in doing in the future -

-workbench (maybe that would be first project)
-waist high raised garden bed
-chicken coop (I made with PVC & hardware cloth and it's barely holding on)
-hammock stand
-shelving unit
-dining table
-bed
-bench

**I was thinking of a sliding compound one, but am not sure how much money I would need to spend to get a good enough one. I have spent a little bit of time Googling, but my head is still spinning. It seems like all of the cool looking projects have angles, so that is why I have it in my head that a miter saw would be a good thing to have.

Tools I own:
SKILSAW SPT67WM-22 Magnesium Sidewinder Circular Saw, 7-1/4-Inch (purchased today)

Craftsman Cordless Drill

Craftsman Mechanic's Socket Set

Handsaw

some Bicycle Tools

Thanks - anyone who reads this or posts a kind helpful response.

 

[shawhite]

Do you have a budget for this saw? What capacity saw do you see your projects needing? You can’t really go wrong with any of the big names Bosch, makita, and dewalt would be my top 3.

 

[snickers muncher]

A lot depends on what you are planning on cutting. I've got by for years with a smaller 10 inch that would cut 2x6's. I'll leave the more experienced to give better advise, but I do want to point out that a good tablesaw and circular saw pair will be more versatile and do everything a miter saw will---except for molding--- with simple guides that are often included at purchase.

 

[wanttodiy]

Thanks shawhite & snickers muncher:

No specific budget for the saw.. I'd rather spend as is much as needed to have one that could do most anything I'd like to do... If I had to say a number, I'd probably balk at anything over $500. If I don't need more features though, I'd be fine with a less expensive one; I just don't want to start doing things and find myself wanting to upgrade in short time.

I think I'll definitely want a table saw & a jigsaw in the future. I picked circular and miter to start because it seems like some of the projects I was looking at were recommending one or both. I know there are so many good resources out there, but I think I need to have the tools to start practicing and learning (i.e. get started). Wish my parents were here so I could just borrow theirs, but I don't live near them.

As far as the capacity, I don't even know. Does that mean how large pieces of wood I think I'd like to cut? I don't think projects I have in mind would be using huge pieces of wood ... but I think I would like to build some sort of shed and or outside storage for my bicycles.

ETA : I like to have the "tools" I need to do the job. I have tons of stuff for my kitchen and love being able to pull up the exact item whatever recipe I'm following recommends. I think tools are a good investment and being relatively young, I'd hope to keep them for a long long time.

 

[Aaron_W]

Cheapest option is a hand saw and miter box which is not a terrible answer for a one time project doing small work like trim. These run anywhere from $10-100.


It sounds like you want a power saw. Most will list the size of the work they can cut at 90 and 45 degree in the description.

There are three basic functions, two planes of angle and then sliding aspect.

A basic miter saw only cuts an angle in one plane, but most will be a compound miter saw which can cut angles in two planes (saw swivels right to left and tilts from vertical to an angle usually up to about 45 degrees from vertical).

Some only tilt / swivel in one direction (single bevel), others will go to either side (double bevel). This is mostly a convenience, as you can do the same work with a single bevel saw it just takes a little more thought to lay out the board when they only go one way.

The sliding function allows you to cut a wider board. At least in my opinion this is a much less useful feature for most DIY work. Sliding adds more expense and complexity than just going to the next larger saw. If you expect to be cutting lots of wide planks though it is a nice feature as a smaller lighter saw can be used.

In general 7-1/4" will cut up to a 2x4, 10" a 2x6, and a 12" a 4x6 or 2x8. Sliders can cut 2-3x the width of a non-slider at 90 degrees depending on the saw.

I have a 12" non-sliding saw which I have found quite handy, it is Home Depot's Rigid brand. I also have a Ryobi 7-1/4" non-sliding saw for little stuff as it is much easier to drag around and works great for trim and such. Happy with both saws.

There are some cordless 7-1/4" saws available. Limited application but I'm sure handy where they work.


If you want the ability to cut 4x4 you are going to want to look at a 12" saw, if not a 10" will probably work for you.

 

[Aaron_W]

Miter saw vs table saw is not a either or. A table saw is a lot more versatile, but a miter saw is much better at doing its one thing.

For most of your projects I think you will be fine with a miter saw and circular saw, however for nice furniture (dining room table, bed), a table saw will really come into its own.


Also not to go all safety sally, but all of these circular blade tools are seriously dangerous, any of them could remove a finger, hand or arm instantly if not given your full attention. If you have the slightest feeling what you are doing isn't safe, you are probably right.

 

[Fbmoose48]

Under $500 will get almost any miter saw on sale except a Kapex. The next most expensive usually list around $600 and go on sale for somewhere around your price point. I'm not a fan of sliders, too much inaccuracy inherent in the looser tolerance of the sliding mechanism.

I'd stay away from Ryobi, Ridgid, Harbor Freight, and any other bargain brand. A miter saw that doesn't cut true every time is a waste of money.

I have a 12" Makita non sliding, assembled in the USA, built like a tank and purchased on sale for about $225 new. If you really want a versatile saw I have 3 Dewalt radial arm saws, 12", 10", and 9", and more accurate and realiable than any miter saw - although not always as quick to set up for a few cuts.

 

[The Fall]

I don't know your age (although it's unimportant), but your local jr. college is going to offer woodworking classes that will get you familiar with how to use the equipment. It's money well spent and will show you how to rip and crosscut wood properly on the table saw, how to use a sled, as well as how to mill wood, create different joints and make jigs (if you want to take it that far).

I second what Aaron above mentioned. My dad's been in cabinetry since 1968. I've seen the aftermath of some nasty accidents with master cabinetmakers. It's nothing anyone can't handle. They just need the initial training.

I own DeWalt's 12" miter saw. My stepbrother who installs for the shop uses it in the field. Great saw. Makita is too. By the way, miter saws are pretty safe. That circular saw you got is a tool you need to be very cautious around. There's a lot of litigious baggage regarding Saw Stop's table saws, but I highly recommend them, especially if you want to take it further (they're costly). I wouldn't think so highly of them had I not seen friends and coworkers get injured.

 

[shawhite]

After reading some of the suggestions I decided to reread the question to see if I missed something. Well as it seems I did. For a southpaw (left handed person). I would tell you to look at Bosch as their miter saws are ambidextrous (can operate with either hand easily). I like the CM10GD but it is a little on the heavy side but equipped with the Bosch gravity rise stand it is a very nice combo. Most of dewalt saws I have used are geared towards right hand people. Some of makitas with the vertical handle can be used with either hand. I tend to disagree with the RAS (radial arm saw) suggestion as they are pretty dangerous. Also a table saw is nice but I use my miter saw more than my table saw.

 

[tarbellb]

What you want is a 10" sliding miter saw, it cuts 90% of everything any DIY builder wants.

10" SMS (sliding miter saw) has 10-12"+ of cross cut capacity ie how wide a board you can cut.
Also most can also cut a 4"x4" beam or a true 3.5" thick board.

You dont need a 12", but you will like the added versatility of a slider.
----

Good saws to look at specially for a DIY Lefty is the Ridgid 10" slider ($300). Has and ambidextrous handle, good price, good enough features, and a lifetime warranty.

If you want just a excellent saw that may not cater to a lefty, go Dewalt or Makita ($350-500).

Add a stand ($150) if you dont have a good table/bench.

Good luck.

 

[PFSard]

No recommendations on miter saw.

No idea what you've looked at already for background, but I find this person's videos good resources for relatively simple explanations on Woodworking.

Steve Ramsey - Woodworking for Mere Mortals

What Can You Do With a Miter Saw? Should You Get One?

 

[850xpeps]

Bosch are good sliding compounds and the handle can go either way. I have a hitachi and I love it. Super accurate and unlike other sliders you can install it on a bench up against a wall because it can lock the rails and slide on the rails. The new Bosch has a folding arm and can do the same. Makita is also a very good saw. I would buy a 12” sliding compound as you will be upset when you can’t cut something. The price difference isn’t great. If you were just doing trim I would say a 10” mitre saw would work fine. But for anything larger get a 12” compound slider. Cost in Canada for any of these is around $800 and sometimes you can watch and get a free stand with it. I also prefer the adjustable laser on my hitachi.

 

[AceofSpad3s]

I have a $100 hitachi 10" that is pretty decent for what it is, haven't done anything worth pulling it out in a year or so but it did a fine job with molding. Fixed kills a lot of versatility though, 10" slider is the minimum I would get if doing it again, fixed works fine for 2"x6" or smaller and molding well, but not being able to cut laminate flooring is a really annoying problem. Even with a 10" you can't cut 4x4's either, I think a 12 inch fixed saw might be the best for the money since the extra size will let you cut standard laminate flooring in one stroke as well as 4x4's, I can't think of anything you could commonly run into that you could cut with a 12" slider, but couldn't with a 12" fixed.

Even a small one is helpful though, I have a west german 7 1/4 black and decker around that's handy for murdering 2x4s without draging out the big saw.

 

[never enuf time]

As a Left handed carpenter, I use my right hand with tools set up as such ( miterbox, circular saw ). It's much safer to use it the way it was designed.

I would look for a gently used 12" miterbox on facebook market place or craigslist. I have had really good luck with Dewalt.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ second on the dewalt .
literally hundreds of thousands of cuts on them and and very little issues .
wore a switch out on my first 12" , replaced it and it's now a back up/just in case
have a 12" & 10" that get used a lot ( non of them sliders)

 

[olytdi]

Lots of good things to consider here, OP but I might suggest perusing Offerup or CL once you get a more specific sense of what you're looking for. There are a LOT of powered miter saws, some new-ish on my local boards some for a song. Wish you'd posted this a few days earlier as there was an Amazon special for a Dewalt 12" slider miter with stand for $350 (was a mistake but a number of us got one prior to Amazon pulling the deal).

Father's day is coming up as well and there may be some killer deals. I'd also employ some price watches (like on Slickdeals) using keywords for alerting you to when deals are happening. Vigilance and patience will pay off with a nice saw for a good price.

 

[gnpenning]

I have 2 12" dewalts. One a slider the other not. The slider lives in the shop, the other has a spot on the same table as the slider. Plus I have a portable stand for going on the road. The slider is nice when I need it. The biggest problem with some of the sliders is you can't get them close to a wall. If I was looking I'd be looking at ones with a folding arm. May not buy it, but I sure would look hard.

Some of the great tool manufacturers of yesteryear are no longer so. B&D, skil, craftsman, etc. Sorry. The older stuff is great.

I would suggest you pick up some cut offs or buy poplar or pine something cheap and practice building little things that you can throw away or let your kids bang on. Boxes, birdhouses, etc to build your skills and confidence.

As you setup your shop area think dual purpose. All my benches are at 36". This way I can use them for out feed tables for the table saw or extra support for projects. I have a router table in one of the table saw wings.

Liking tools for the job and this site can be expensive..

Good luck and keep posting

 

[Milton Shaw]

Nobody else has mentioned this, but buy a better carbide tip blade than the one it comes with. Most come with a construction grade blade and for finish work a better blade make a lot better, smoother cut that needs less attention to get it ready to use. I have a Dewald 12" slider saw and have had a 10" Delta. Both do a good job for work within there range. If you are making projects out of 4x4 pressure treated then the construction blade will do the job. But for finish work in hardwood a 100 tooth triple chip carbide tooth blade will give you a polished, chip free cut.

 

[ItsNemo]

Dewalt DWS780 12" slider...buy once and be done with it.

 

[Finky198]

+1 ^^^

I’ve had one for 5 years and built our 1500sq shop addition, to my kitchen Butcher Block And just about everything in between that and a worm drive saw in the right hands with a few blade and common tools can build anything....

As he said one and done.

For ref. We have 3 table saws at the shop I’ve used them 3 times in five year maybe 2 dozen cuts..... granted I’m not doing tons of finish work or cabinets, but in comparison My miter saw gets used weekly, sometimes daily with 1000s of cuts on it over the years...

Sometimes Lowe’s or HD has a free stand offer which makes the deal a little better. I was able to use a 10% off coupon from their moving pack.. At HD the item didn’t qualify but after Speaking with someone at the contractors counter I told them I’d buy 4 blades and a few other things in addition to the saw and stand they gladly took 10% off the total... it can’t hurt to ask.

I want to say $600-700 in change with a 5 ft level, 4 Diablo blades different tooth counts and a few Irwin quick clamps.. I have not bought anything pertaining to the saw since that day..

I’m a lefty as well. All I can say is work in a way that feels the most natural. I switch my grip back and forth depending on what I’m doing but that just come with time.

Take it slow as someone else on here said
“ engage brain before engaging hands....”

 

[bobemmerich]

As far as a power saw, I'd recommend going to several stores and "playing" with them. That way you'll know whats comfortable for you and your budget.
This is one that I have. Although not power, it will work for a lot of DIY cuts
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Precision-Miter-Saw/H7156

 

[shawhite]

What is everyone cutting to need a 12in miter saw. I have not ran across anything I cannot cut in one pass with my 10in. For finish work I used a 8 1/2 with great success until I got my 10in

 

[Aaron_W]

What is everyone cutting to need a 12in miter saw. I have not ran across anything I cannot cut in one pass with my 10in. For finish work I used a 8 1/2 with great success until I got my 10in

A 12" non-slider was cheaper than a 10" with slider and did everything I needed. A 10" slider added capabilities I don't have much need for as I really never cut wide planks.


A 12" will cut 4x4s at all angles, 10" only @ 90.

A 12" will cut up to a 2x6" @ 45 or a 2x8 @ 90. 2x6" is about the largest lumber I work with. A 10" will only cut a 2x4 @ 45.

 

[dwasifar]

I just want to chime in to give OP some props for her attitude and approach. She's ambitious, eager to learn by doing, and not afraid to ask the right questions. Polite, too.

Good on you, OP. I think you're going to build great things.

 

[Git]

Dewalt has a 12" slider that they are fazing out - the DWS 779. From what I understand, it is basically the $600 DWS780 without the light.

It is the number one best seller on Amazon and has over 1,700 reviews
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESCU5WS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have seen it as low as $349 at all the major stores, but it is currently selling for $399. I would keep my eye out for a Labor Day sale...

 

[ItsNemo]

Dewalt has a 12" slider that they are fazing out - the DWS 779. From what I understand, it is basically the $600 DWS780 without the light.

It is the number one best seller on Amazon and has over 1,700 reviews
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESCU5WS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have seen it as low as $349 at all the major stores, but it is currently selling for $399. I would keep my eye out for a Labor Day sale...

The light is worth every penny extra...it makes cuts far more accurate and are faster to setup.

 

[Git]

The light is worth every penny extra...it makes cuts far more accurate and are faster to setup.

Personally, I prefer just touching the blade to the mark on the board... but to each his own

I tried to find a review showing what this 'magical light' does, I didn't realize it was just a "shadow line light" that this reviewer says he just leaves it off

YouTube video showing how you can add a shadow line light to your miter saw for about $10

 

[ItsNemo]

Personally, I prefer just touching the blade to the mark on the board... but to each his own

I tried to find a review showing what this 'magical light' does, I didn't realize it was just a "shadow line light" that this reviewer says he just leaves it off

YouTube video showing how you can add a shadow line light to your miter saw for about $10

I've used miter saws with and without it...it's much quicker/more accurate with the light. I don't have to use a speed square and mark a line all the way across to be sure a tooth of the blade touches the mark, I can just make a tiny pencil mark at my measurement and the light hits it wherever it is on the board. If you're trying to setup the saw to hit a scribed angle it's also much easier. No adjusting the light with different blades like you have to do with laser ones, it's always accurate.

It's very much worth the money to me to go with the DWS780 over the DWS779 (I actually did) but of course wait for a good sale price.

 

[shawhite]

A 12" non-slider was cheaper than a 10" with slider and did everything I needed. A 10" slider added capabilities I don't have much need for as I really never cut wide planks.


A 12" will cut 4x4s at all angles, 10" only @ 90.

A 12" will cut up to a 2x6" @ 45 or a 2x8 @ 90. 2x6" is about the largest lumber I work with. A 10" will only cut a 2x4 @ 45.

This is only true with a non slider. A good 10in Slider will accomplish all the above task with ease.

 

[seber]

I have a very old Hitachi 10" slider that has been through the wars. It came from my father's remodeling business where it saw daily use for around ten years. It still cuts as true as any radial arm with the added safety of push cut. I think Hitachi has the best bang for buck. There is nothing that a diy person would ever need a 12" blade for and the slider will cut a lot of sheet goods as well. I added the light to the blade when I got it. That was a waste of money. Set the saw for the angle needed and touch the tooth to the mark. I certainly agree with the better blade suggestion.
There are a number of woodworking sites that have actual reviews of tools. That is where I would start.

 

[finn]

I’m right handed, but the ambidextrous switch on the Bosch sliding compound miter saw comes in handy for me on some cuts. It is worth looking into for a southpaw. A couple of my siblings and one son are southpaws, so I take notice of designs that make their lives easier.

The Bosch fits that category.

Also, I would recommend a 10” slider over a 12”, simply because it’s significantly lighter to move around to different project worksites.

 

[Deej-79]

I've owned some cheaper saws, I have a 7 1/2 and 10" kobalt sliders and they are good for what they are. They cut fine for painted trim. My 10" cordless makita is a fantastic saw as well. As to the op's questions, any sliding saw will have some play when the saw is slid all the way out, I say that having worked with about 10 saws of varying brands. Any sliding saw can also be used as a fixed blade, which makes the play go away but also limits the size of the cut. 10" will have less blade deflection than 12", that's why you see most finish carpenters use a 10" saw. As far as the lefty thing goes, I'm right handed but often use my left hand on the saw depending on the cut. A vertical handle will be easier to use ambidextrously. And for blades, I only use Diablo, best blade in that price range, imo.

 

[Deej-79]

Oh, and any miter saw needs to be tuned up out of the box and checked occasionally to make sure they are still true. A proper tune will make a cheap or expensive saw better

 

[smokey0810]

I regret not getting a 10" slider from the get-go. I purchased a Rigid 10" miter saw a few years back. Talked to the sales guy at HD, and he said that the DeWalt and Rigid were basically the same internally, but the DeWalt was $50 extra due to the 'laser". Not that you use the laser as a real reference point for cutting, it is a nice handy little thing to have. THAT being said, I'm currently thinking about purchasing a 10" sliding miter saw, due to cutting boards wider than my Rigid can reach. I've gotten into making cutting boards, and some of the boards I get from my lumber supplier are definitely wider than I can cut.
Overall, I've been happy and impressed with my Rigid 10" miter saw, with a DECENT blade. I also purchased the Ryobi miter stand with a gift card from Lowe's. Works extremely well with my Rigid.

 

[yamaha0343]

Dewalt DWS780 12" slider...buy once and be done with it.

This X2

 

[Aaron_W]

This is only true with a non slider. A good 10in Slider will accomplish all the above task with ease.

Sure and a fixed 12" saw is smaller, lighter, cheaper and has less to go wrong than a 10" slider.

 

[shawhite]

Sure and a fixed 12" saw is smaller, lighter, cheaper and has less to go wrong than a 10" slider.

At the expense of smaller capacity, less accurate and more expensive blades. If all I was using it for was rough cutting lumber for construction sure a 12in non slider would be fine. If I’m doing trim especial stain grade trim I’ll keep my 10in.

 

[tarbellb]

You can cut a 24" wide board with a 10" slider.

You gotta cheat and flip it, but its a huge benefit to a that class of saw.

 

[Aaron_W]

At the expense of smaller capacity, less accurate and more expensive blades. If all I was using it for was rough cutting lumber for construction sure a 12in non slider would be fine. If I’m doing trim especial stain grade trim I’ll keep my 10in.

I disagree with this entire statement except smaller capacity, everybody is entitled to their opinions.

 

[wanttodiy]

Hey everyone,

I wanted to say I truly appreciate all of the positive feedback. I was super nervous to post because I generally like to do a lot of reading to avoid posting a question that's been asked 10 million times.

I need to think it over, but I've definitely been given great advice. I will definitely read and reread everyone's thoughts.

-woodworking class: perfect idea; planning to sign up for one at my local CC (found one one night a week this fall); never would have thought of this myself

-I am a little accepting of getting one that might not do EVERYTHING; if I get good, I could always rent or borrow

-safety sally, haha never heard this but love it! I did make a passable temporary wheelchair ramp for my Dad after a stroke. I think I used his table saw, but I remember being terrified. This definitely made me think of safety. Hopefully above referenced woodworking class will also help me form good habits. The circular saw does scare me as well.

-youtube videos: again, I was more thinking of tutorial videos and blogs, not just techniques. I am not too proud to admit when I think dumb things - I never even considered searching the general topic "wood working" - I liked the guy referenced

-re left-handed; I referenced this because I purchased the circular saw based on Wirecutter's recommendation. Love that website for reviews in general, and I agree on many of their picks that I either already owned or bought based on their recommendations. I actually saw that skilsaw made a "southpaw" version, but after reading reviews, I found out that righties actually prefer the Southpaw, so the regular should be perfect for me. Wasn't sure if other tools would be same.

Thank you again everyone for the kindness and encouragement. I will follow up when I purchase and perhaps even visit this forum regularly .

Also ... I just purchased a Harbor Freight General Tool Chest ($~479 44inx22in). I think that was based on recommendations from here. I normally don't like HF, but people seemed to love it; had no idea how expensive those tool chests get.