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Miter saw size choice?

ajchien

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I'm looking to get a miter saw. At first, bigger seems better. But when I think about it more, I'm not so sure.

I've already got myself a table saw, circular saw, jigsaw, scroll saw. I'm adding the miter saw so I can get better precision on smaller work like trim pieces.

Was looking at a 12" slider, and then started too much thinking ... thought to myself.... Other than cross cutting a larger board.... Would I ever cut a 45 degree miter or bevel a board that large? Do I need that much precision when cutting a 2x10? Then I thought, when was the last time I did a 45 degree miter on a 2x4? I did need to put a 45degree bevel on a 2x6 a few years back. I did it with a table saw.

Maybe I'll be just fine with a 10" non slider??? Or if I'm dedicating this saw to trim work, maybe I can even go down to 7-1/4"? I don't think I've ever put a trim bigger than 3" on something other than baseboard moulding.

Help. Too much thinking is going on in my head. :eyecrazy:
 
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RivennHewn

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I ran trim for years with an 8-1/4" Hitachi compound saw.

I moved up to the 10" version, and it's much better.

Don't see much need for the 12", and it's just that much bigger to take up space and heavier lifting it into the truck.

The 15" Hitachi wasn't a compound saw, and it never really got used at all.
 

kctyphoon

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For general purpose 10 is usually enough.. My friend just bought a really nice craftsman model for $220 that's a space saving ( rails in the front) 10" slider with expandable wings on the sides.. REALLY nice for the money and for a craftsman if you ask me... Unless ur a contractor I'd say that more than enough.. He returned a rigid he bought a week before in favor of it.. Good choice IMO
 

kctyphoon

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image.jpg

This one.. Was one sale for $220 and he got a 10 or $20 gift card as well

The rails don't slide back, so u can sit it flush to a wall. The blade slides on fixed rails. It has a depth stop too, for doing notches on say a 4x4
 
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Jswain

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I have that craftsman but in the non slider version, it is not a bad saw after it is set up correctly. I also have a dewalt 12" slider that I wouldn't trade for the world, but for trim etc. a 10" would be perfect. If you don't cut more then a 2x4 wide very often a 10" stationary saw will do, but if you plan on cutting 2x6(especially anything other then a straight crosscut) then you will want a sliding 10"/ or a stationary 12":D
 

gungatim

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it depends on what you are going to use it for. If you only want to do trim, a smaller one will suffice. If you also want to cut 2x6, a 10" will just barely cut it. I use a 10" Makita SCMS in the wood shop, but more for cutting shelving and wider stuff. a standard 10" is in the outside shop for cross cutting lumber to length when building picnic tables, deer blinds, etc.

since you already have a table saw, a good mitre guage or handmade sled will also cut great mitres, just depends on how much you want to do with it...
 

finn

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I like my 10" Makita compound slider. I'm no carpenter, more of a hacker. I haven't run into anything that would require a 12" saw yet.

Truth is, I usually grab my old Black and Decker beater for most small jobs because it is lighter to move around and is often accurate enough for rough work.
 

cheechi

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I like a 12" slider double bevel and a 12" single bevel non slider. Certain cuts you want that positive stop at 90 and (30, 45, wherever it tilts to) just to make them quick and easy.

Miter saw is a jig. Some shops you have tons of jigs and some are used more than others. Other shops you have 3 jigs that see all the use and none others are needed. Miter saw might not be a need for you. Sounds like it is. Sounds like you could get by with whatever size and options. But keep in mind what's the biggest thing you would work on ever? if it's ever moulding, I would just get the 12" slider and not have to worry about re-buying due to that need coming up.
 

The Cobbler

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All right. Im thinking of the Dewalt DW713, 10" non-slider.

Comments or opinions on this saw? Listed at HD for $219

Again, I think my primary goal is cut accuracy of trim pieces.

good choice if it's big enough cut for your purpose. I have one and it get used often. can actually cut 4" base with it, albeit with a bit of manipulation.
 

slip knot

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I've got a 10 and 12in. The 10in gets used 95% of the time simply because its easier to take to the site.

Another consideration is cost of blades. 12in blades get pretty pricy compared to their 10in counterparts.
 

SMKS

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I went through this last year and ended up getting a 10" non-sliding Hitachi.

Not all 10" models have the exact same cutting capacity. The design of the saw gives a small margin to some models over others. The Hitachi seemed good to me.

I thought I'd start with a cheap 10" and I could always upgrade if I wanted. Turns out the 10" has done everything I've wanted to do so far.:thumbup:

Plus, I need to move the saw off a shelf and set it up when I need to use it, and the 10" is way lighter than a 12".
 
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ajchien

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Dang it. The 10" hitachi was on my short list reading up on miter saws too. The only problem is that I haven't looked and physically touched one yet. What Brick and Mortar stores carry it?

FWIW, a 10" Ridgid was also on my list. I liked the bevel stops in addition to miter stops it has.
 
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Hpozzuoli

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I would only get a 12". I have cut some odd stuff and glad I had the 12". I think lowes has a deal where you buy the dewalt 12" for 299 and you get a free stand. Home Depot has the saw on sale for 299. Either way both stores have some good deals on a saw that is usually 400
 

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Hpozzuoli

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Either way I would get the stand. I use mine for work so maybe my needs are different, but piece of mind says 12" with the stand.
 

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kctyphoon

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All right. Im thinking of the Dewalt DW713, 10" non-slider.

Comments or opinions on this saw? Listed at HD for $219

Again, I think my primary goal is cut accuracy of trim pieces.

I have a 10" dewalt.. Works goods. Make sure you check the fence when you get it. My first one was off and was killing all my 45's. (Left side was a slightly different angle than the right) Just place a straight edge like a level across both sides of the fence, and make sure there is absolutely no gap between the fence and the level anywhere. Then you check for squareness of the blade off the "now proven" straight fence. Make a cut, verify its at 90 off both sides of the fence. Mine was old when i finally realized this (or cared) and I was forced to buy a new saw, swap the fences, then return the saw again..

You should check any model you buy, mine was probably just a fluke since all my other dewalt stuff has been great.

Off topic, but if anyone was ever curious how you check a level - place it against a wall and note exactly where the bubble is - then without flipping the level (so you are using the same bubble and same window) use the opposite edge of the level on the same wall.. If the bubble does not appear in the exact same spot ( 1/8" off the line, 1/32" off the line, ect..) then your level is off.. Just some random info..
 
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elgato3

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I recommend a 12" slider double bevel with a thin kerf blade (100 teeth) for trim work. I use this combo for all of my trim works and molding.
 

Docman

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Dang it. The 10" hitachi was on my short list reading up on miter saws too. The only problem is that I haven't looked and physically touched one yet. What Brick and Mortar stores carry it?

FWIW, a 10" Ridgid was also on my list. I liked the bevel stops in addition to miter stops it has.

Lowes has the 10" and 12" Hitachi's. CPO online has them refurbed for $20+ cheaper with free shipping on your first order, if you're pinching pennies. You'll find the Ridgid at Home Depot, of course.
 

Cope

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All right. Im thinking of the Dewalt DW713, 10" non-slider.

Comments or opinions on this saw? Listed at HD for $219

Again, I think my primary goal is cut accuracy of trim pieces.

I bought the DeWalt 10" compound miter saw from Lowe's. Decided to install some laminate flooring, and the 10" won't cut it. Went to a 112" and no more problem. If all you plan to cut is narrow trim, the 10" is fine.
 

cheechi

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Not all 10" models have the exact same cutting capacity. The design of the saw gives a small margin to some models over others. The Hitachi seemed good to me.
This is true of all miters. One really impressive thing about the 12" sliding Ridgid is how deep it cuts at angles. They claim its better than any other on the market. They had some 'ours/theirs' sign made up for all the major brands around. Except, seems like depending on your HD or your area, they will either carry Ridgid, Makita, Milawukee in miters but not all of them. Same with table saws. So of course no comparison for those brands.

I have a C12RSH and I can tell you Hitachi makes a great miter saw. I like the design of the slide although it does make the saw unevenly heavy and more difficult to carry the benefits outweigh that.

Be careful what saw and stand combination you get. Obviously there's fewer stands than saws to choose from, but where and how the saw mounts to it is very important. My Hitachi for example with that DW723 pictured above I need to bolt it to a sheet of ply and then attach it to the brackets. Makes the saw too tall to use the side supports/material stops. Granted I have mine on 3/4" subfloor ply but it's something to consider regardless. I've owned the Skil stand and it's nice, there is nothing actually wrong with it. For the money though you can spend a little more and get nicer.
 

justme-

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I used to run a tool store - our best seller was the Hitachi 10" double bevel sliding. Next was dewalt 10 double bevel sliding... 90% of my sales were to contractors...if you want accuracy stay away from Hf and discount store brands. Simple enough - as to why the size and features it's simply what do you want to cut. With the tools you have you don't need any miter saw, but try cutting crown molding without a dual beveling saw and you'll be scratching your head. Blade size is misleading because you never get full blade diameter actually cutting wood on a 10 or 12.

If you're looking for high accuracy on small trim like picture frames and are certain you'll never do crown or high volume stuff get a manual miter saw - Craftsman, empire, Pony, and several others rebrand the same thing usually called a precision mitre saw.

I have an old delta 10" compound - non sliding, single bevel (only tilts one direction). It'll do accurate enough, but I use it to do repeat cuts - lots of studs, faschia boards, etc. I used to attach it to saw horses but bought the Craftsman miter saw stand a couple years ago - works great and is inexpensive - ($50)
 

fourjeepin

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I've had a 10" non-sliding from Craftsman since like '96. I have been looking at slider or 12" non-sliding. The 10" I have won't cut all the way through a 4x4 or a 2x8. This is very annoying.
 

usdemt

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I have the 10 inch sliding Bosch. Awesome saw and the forward controls are awesome compared to their competitors. The downside of it is that it isnt a good trim saw. Way too much in the 90 for fine trim work. I am super picky but for fine trim work I go to a non slider. But my Bosch is a beast.
 

yfz 450

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If I were you I would get the dewalt double bevel sliding compound miter saw 12". I have worked construction for years and this was by far my favorite to use. My last job my boss had 3 of them we would use, I used 1 atleast once everyday. They are a great saw and there are no limitations with it. If you get a smaller one or a non sliding or beveling one you might regret it when the job comes up you need it for. Like your first post I try to get the biggest and best if I can so I can grow into it. Even if at the time I don't think I will need something that extream it is nice to have when you need it. It drives me crazy when I don't have the right tool kind of an o.c.d. Thing but that's my 2 cents
 

CTyankee

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If I were you I would get the dewalt double bevel sliding compound miter saw 12". I have worked construction for years and this was by far my favorite to use. My last job my boss had 3 of them we would use, I used 1 atleast once everyday. They are a great saw and there are no limitations with it. If you get a smaller one or a non sliding or beveling one you might regret it when the job comes up you need it for. Like your first post I try to get the biggest and best if I can so I can grow into it. Even if at the time I don't think I will need something that extream it is nice to have when you need it. It drives me crazy when I don't have the right tool kind of an o.c.d. Thing but that's my 2 cents

At the risk of exposing myself to the usual flaming in regards to these type of threads, I'll have to respectfully disagree with you. I have also worked in construction coming up on 2 decades. I don't think the "grow into it" line necessarily should apply here.

Our job site trailer has both 10" and 12" sliders on it.(Dewalt...although my personal preference is Hitachi). Since the 10" came on board(approx 3 years ago), it's the first one out of the trailer. I can't think of 1 instance over this time when anyone needed to go back for the 12" one. Granted, we do very little large crown molding, but do perform every aspect in the building of a home.

Learning to make good, clean cuts with a regular skill saw just isn't that a big deal. A slider would my last choice for a saw to use to cut any type of 4x4, 4x6, etc. most of the time. 1- because I do not want to haul the material over to the saw station. and 2 - because rarely is a precision cut going to be needed with this type of material.

Based on these experiences...this leads to MY opinion that the average homeowner doesn't really need a 12" compound saw of any kind. Unless there is some need to do a large amount of production cutting of large material, a 10" slider will suffice for 99 percent of their needs. Factoring in cost, weight, blade price, and to some extent blade deflection...the smaller saw seems like the better choice to me. YMMV
 

yfz 450

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Well I as well had the choice between the sliders and non and I would everyday take the 12 slider because no matter what the day brought I always had enough saw. Ultimately it's up to the op but I don't like limitations and he stated he didn't either. And the growing in could very likely apply here with starting out with base trim and door casing and eventually work up to crown. I think blade cost and weight is irrelevant here, for home owner use that blade should last for years unless you miss great it. Weight also not that big of a deal for a home owner, he will not be lugging it everyday from job to job. I am very good with a skill saw but found my self using this saw more than my skill saw. You set it up near your work and it sits there all day.
 
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