Mitre Saw 'ringing'

[WhiteLightning]

Hey all. I was using my Craftsman mitre saw yesterday for some trim work. The brake for the blade was 'ringing' as it was bringing the blade to a stop. Is this considered normal? Or should I be weary of the tool and have it checked out? I don't want anything flying off as I am using it.

 

[rlitman]

Why do you think it was the brake? Blades often do this. Some blades ring more than others.

 

[WhiteLightning]

Why do you think it was the brake? Blades often do this. Some blades ring more than others.

I just assumed it was the brake since the brake was activated at the time of the ringing. Now that you say the blade, it makes sense. Since the ringing still persisted after the blade was 'still'. I have a couple other blades for it. I will try another out and see if the problem persists/changes/stops.

Thanks for the reply!!!

 

[rlitman]

Sure. I know that my red Freud blades have grooves laser cut into them to stop this. Not sure how well it works though.

 

[pop pop]

Just answer it and see who is calling

 

[Greatbear]

Blades that have slotting for warpage control tend to not ring at all. I have Bosch and Freud blades that make only a dull thud if you tap them to make them ring.

 

[WhiteLightning]

My blades do not have slots. I will grab one with the slots to verify.

 

[WhiteLightning]

I checked my blades. They all are the older craftsman blades that are solid.....like so

Next time I am at home depot I will grab another blade with these relief cuts mentioned. What is a good rule of thumb for tooth count, for a general miter saw blade? It would be cutting things like molding, 2x4's, etc.

 

[rlitman]

You're asking about opposite ends of the spectrum.
Molding wants more teeth, 2x lumber wants less.

80T is good for molding, but you don't want to be cutting 2x4's with it.
24T will fly through 2x4's, but will leave an awful edge on miter jointed molding.

So, you're looking at a compromise. There are blades in the 40-60T range you may like. 60T may burn a bit on 2x4's, 40T may still tear molding edges too much to your liking. . .

Here's something down the middle:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I believe HD carries blades in this line (not sure if they have this exact one though).
In this blade, the anti-vibration cuts run up and back in a zig-zag pattern. on the interior of the plate.

Note though, that that blade has a tooth rake more suitable for a table saw than a miter saw. It could be a little overly aggressive on finer molding, but should be good if you cut slowly.

The Forrest Chopmaster is regarded as one of the finest blades you can get for molding work in a miter saw, but don't even think about using this to chop lumber:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223VV/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This has a more typical anti-vibration cut going from the edge to a curlicue in the blade.

That 104T blade you posted a picture of is really only good for cutting paneling on a tablesaw. That's a real specialty item, and you wouldn't cut paneling on a miter saw, so that's too fine for your purposes.

 

[5lima30]

Try A freud blade like the other posters said, you will not believe the difference!

 

[WhiteLightning]

I have three of those craftsman blades. 104T, 200T, and I believe there is an 80T on the saw. I was cutting some small cove molding with the one on the saw with no issues. I went 'slower' than I would with some 2x4 lumber, and it didn't splinter the molding at all. My only complaint is the annoying 'ringing'.

Saying that, is that "Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating" blade something I should give a try? Like I said, I will be cutting various things in my new house- molding, 2x4's, etc.

Since the Forrest Chopmaster 80T should/can not cut 2x4's, I'd count that out for now.

 

[5lima30]

I have three of those craftsman blades. 104T, 200T, and I believe there is an 80T on the saw. I was cutting some small cove molding with the one on the saw with no issues. I went 'slower' than I would with some 2x4 lumber, and it didn't splinter the molding at all. My only complaint is the annoying 'ringing'.

Saying that, is that "Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating" blade something I should give a try? Like I said, I will be cutting various things in my new house- molding, 2x4's, etc.

Since the Forrest Chopmaster 80T should/can not cut 2x4's, I'd count that out for now.

Personally I prefer a 40 tooth, but my mix of projects leans more towards framing vs. finish. But if you do more finish vs. framing than a 50 tooth would be a good choice IMHO.

 

[WhiteLightning]

The new blade works awesome! No more ringing. Thanks for the help along the way!!!

 

[woody 73]

I know a good blade will do the job, I have seen men using a blade Dampener but only for table saws or radial arm saws; the disc will help to kill the saw scream But they can run a pretty penny to buy.