Mitsubishi Mr. Slim Heat Pump Installation

[coolreed]

Well after much waving of arms and knashing of teeth I have decided to go ahead and install a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim Heat Pump in my garage. My garage is 900 sq ft and is insulated and has insulated garage doors. I have ordered the Heat Pump along with required components. I will perform the installation myself. The Mitsubishi costs more than other ductless units but the seer rating is much higher than those costing less. Friends of mine who have similar units and air conditioning professionals have informed me this will be adequate to the task at hand.

I will post my progress in the future for those interested.

 

[Warrenator]

Great, will be following along. Where did you buy the unit and what kind of pricing did you get?

 

[coolreed]

I purchased the unit form eComfort out of the Chicago area.

Shipping was free and no taxes. They seemed to be in line with the other quotes I received. In fact they were the best quote for the unit I purchased with accessories.

Really looking forward to getting this installed.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I put one of those in at work to cool our server room many years ago. (Like 10 years?) It has run flawlessly. We don't use the heat...just the cool....but it's really a good piece of equipment.

Phil

 

[coolreed]

Here is the Mr. Slim Package

This is the Air Handler unpacked.

This is the Mr. Slim Condensor.

Not shown is the Line Set and Mounting Bracket for the Condenser.

Will start the installation in a few days.

 

[bullnerd]

Very cool,I'm interested in doing this too.

'Waving of arms"-Ha!

 

[OldracerJones]

Can't wait, going to start mine with my bonus this year. Thanks for posting!

 

[coolreed]

The Mr. Slim Unit is 18,000 BTU Air Conditioner and about a 22,000 BTU Hyper Heating Unit. As I may have stated earlier my garage is 900 sq. ft. and according to my HVAC buds this should work fine.

I am waiting on my Condenser Mounting Brackets, which is on backorder. Hopefully this will be in shortly. In the meantime, I am taking my time on the installation gathering parts I need. I wanted to mount the Condenser above ground level. The Wall Bracket is designed to support 300 lbs.

Will be using 'Speedi Channel' conduit for the Line Set and Control Lines. I will use plastic conduit for the 220 VAC feed.

In our area code requires a Disconnect Box and an AC outlet. I will also add a surge suppressor at the disconnect. Adding a Square D 20 Amp dual pole breaker for the Mr. Slim unit.

The line set is 25 feet and the Mr. Slim is designed for that length. I will not need a Line Set that long. I may opt for the HVAC Tech to shorthen it when we connect the line set.

Later.

 

[jad3675]

Will be using 'Speedi Channel' conduit for the Line Set and Control Lines. I will use plastic conduit for the 220 VAC feed.

FYI, I found http://skipthewarehouse.com/ has the best pricing on slim-duct line hide.

John

 

[Jackfre]

If you are in a rush you could get the mounting bracket from a local Johnstonesupply or your local stocking distributor. Check www.rectorseal.com they are the bracket manuf. it is a good idea to get if off the ground. Good luck with the install

 

[RKA]

If you need condensate drain line, send me a PM. I bought a spool of the stuff. It should mate up right to the tube coming out of the indoor unit and it's UV resistant and has a black lining to prevent algae growth. GL with the install, it will be well worth it when it's done!

 

[bullnerd]

Mr Reed....hows it going?

 

[coolreed]

Sorry, I have had some family issues regarding Mom. She fell and broke her plelvis and is now in a rehab center. Been a little hectic on this end.

The Mitsubsihi Heat Pump is almost finished. The indoor unit is mounted and wired as is the outdoor unit. The only thing left to do is cut the line set to length, reflair the ends, connect it, pull a vacuum on the line set and then open the valves and turn her on.

The HVAC weenies are scheduled to do this Monday morning (8/12/13). I do not have the certification in HVAC to do this and I need to have a certified HVAC weenie perform this so I have a warranty.

The installation, although simple, was more difficult than I originally thought in that I had to figure out how to do this with my flora and fauna (my home).

Installiing the breaker was simple. Running the 220 VAC line was not. Drilling a three inch hole in the wall was easy once you figured out where you can drill.
I had a very limited area I could install the indoor unit.

I will post some pictures tonight. There really wan't much need in posting the blood and gore of running cable and drilling holes as everyones install will be a little different. But I will show what I did in pictures of the final installation.

Later

 

[coolreed]

This is the outdoor unit. I chose to use Vinyl Boards to mount to my brick and then mount the different conduits to the Vinyl boards. Using speedi channel for the condensation line and Line Set. The Gray box is the required disconnect for the 220 VAC input. The small white box is the control line running from the compressor to the indoor unit. I chose the gray plastic conduit instead of metallic conduit.

This is the indoor unit mounted but not finished. You can see the Line Set ready for termination. I have some clean up to do but it will look very nice when I am through.

Later.

 

[bullnerd]

Cool thanks for the update.

Let us know how it works please.

 

[coolreed]

The HVAC people came out Monday and cut the Line Set to length, pressure tested the connections, pulled a vacuum on the line set and opened up the valves. I turned on the power and Viola!!! I have heat and air at the Lazy J.

You cannot even hear the unit run unless you turn it on high and then you barely hear it running. The condenser unit is silent. The unit cooled the garage down quickly and if I turn the casablanca fans on it gets really cool.

The system works via a remote control unit and is easy to set and operate. I am very happy with the unit and glad I bit the bullet and installed it. My installation was more difficult than most due to the configuration of my garage and where I had to place it.

The ductless systems are simple and very easy to install. The cost of hiring an HVAC professional to come out was $216.00. I highly recommend these.

I will not have to use it all the time. Only during the heat of summer and the dead of winter will it be required.

 

[Trey T]

Can you tell us more about the construction of your garage?

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks for the follow up Mr. Reed.

I want to do the same for my building someday.

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice clean install on the exterior with the vinyl board . . . . looks like you used strategic locations in attaching vinyl board so those holes hit mortor joints in the brick wall.

So the line set will go through the square run on the right side of vinyl board??

Also presume you went with the vinyl board attachment so you could route the lines up through soffit and not drill holes through brick . . . right??

Curious what is story on installing the interior unit covering up part of window?? Is this there to offset heat/cooling losses at the window?? Would unit have worked just as well in another location??

Finally, can you give a RECAP of all the costs?? Any hidden costs??

 

[aaronlalonde]

My question is did you run the lines up thru the ceiling into an attic space? I ask because I am looking At the same sort of install to avoid running thru brick. 9 feet up and it's a strait shot thru Hardiplank.

H&W anyone had issues with hoa's or do I need to move my fence forward

 

[aaronlalonde]

any updates available especially as to the question of running the pipes out the side and up the attic?

Im also torn between cheap units and the expensive units. Its for a garage office and if it fails its not like i would have to move to a hotel or anything.

This is a project I probably need to finish in the next two weeks or so

 

[coolreed]

The line set runs through a 3" hole in the garage wall about 8" to the right of my indoor unit and comes out right at the top of my soffit. I used speedi channel to route the line set and condensation line. This was about the only way I could do it the way my garage was made. I will post some more pictures of the finished installation later.

As for my cost. Mitsubishi 'Hyper' Heat 18,000 BTU with Line set, control line , disconnect. $2400.00

Breaker, #12 Wire, Misc Conduit, Hardware, Speedi Channel, 20 A Dual Pole Breaker, Fittings, etc. $300.00

HVAC professional $216.00

50 Trips to the Hardware Store and Johnstone Supply and my Labor.
Priceless.

So I did the installation for about $3000.00.

Home Depot wanted $5000 and it was not the Hyper Heat I purchased.

There are some good units out there for less but I considered the Mitsubishi as the best unit and I was willing to pay more to get it.

My installation was more difficult than others because of the layout and the hip roof.

 

[aaronlalonde]

Thanks for the reply. It looks like I might need a condesant pump as well as I need to go up about 18 inches before I can go out.

 

[coolreed]

My line came out the wall into the soffit and down out of the soffit.

 

[coolreed]

Just to update my Mitsubishi Heat Pump.

The Heat Pump keeps my 900 sq ft garage nice and cool in the summer.

This winter has been coldest in many years here and the heat pump works fine. But I do not run it 24/7. I only use it when I plan on working in the garage,.. like weekends. So when it is 10 degrees in the garage it may take a while to heat the garage up, as would any heating system.

I am very happy with the unit and wish I had installed it years ago.

 

[Highbeam]

When you are not "using" the mini, do you shut the breaker off, turn down the setpoint, or is there an on/off switch.

Does the unit have an internal condensate pump or is there room inside the plastic shell for the pump or are you supposed to mount it external to the shell?

 

[GS-Louie]

How good is the unit at circulating the air all around the garage?

Thanks,

Lou

 

[coolreed]

I never turn the main breaker off unless I would be working on it and so far I have never had to do anything.

The Mr. Slim is operated by a furnished remote control where you can set on/off, temp, fan speed, etc. When on high speed (fan) you can barely hear it run.

I placed the unit where I work most of the time. It works very well cooling or heating my garage (900 ft^2). I really only need it during Summer and Winter as Spring and Fall in OKC is very pleasant.

 

[RKA]

You might want to put a meter on it to verify off is actually off. I have a Fujitsu that draws 270 watts when "off". That translates to a $1 a day for doing nothing. Like you, it doesn't get used everyday, so I pull the breaker.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just re-read this thread and I have a question on your system.

I believe "inverter" means that the AC power feeding the compressor is first converted to DC and then to variable frequency (and possibly variable voltage) AC so that the pump can be run very efficiently at variable speed. Someone correct me if I am incorrect on this.

What does "Hyper-Heating" mean ?

Some (older) heat pumps used electric resistance heating for cold weather operation. I hope this modern system does not.

 

[Highbeam]

Just re-read this thread and I have a question on your system.

I believe "inverter" means that the AC power feeding the compressor is first converted to DC and then to variable frequency (and possibly variable voltage) AC so that the pump can be run very efficiently at variable speed. Someone correct me if I am incorrect on this.

What does "Hyper-Heating" mean ?

Some (older) heat pumps used electric resistance heating for cold weather operation. I hope this modern system does not.

Mitsubishi hyper heat is a marketing term for their low ambient heat pump technology. The hyper heats do not use a resistance heater in cold weather but make almost 100% of their rated output at 5 degrees above zero. Fujitsu, your favorite, also has some models that perform as well but no shnazzy marketing name for it.

 

[df1k1]

Looking at the mr slim cool only model. Does your unit run all the time? Meaning the fan. I have heard that all mini splits do except for the Mitsubishi

 

[Slednut]

I ordered a dual zone unit for the addition to my house, plan on running all lines in the walls. I am thinking of just poking the drain lines out the side of the house about 6" (second story) any problem with this?

 

[Jackfre]

I ordered a dual zone unit for the addition to my house, plan on running all lines in the walls. I am thinking of just poking the drain lines out the side of the house about 6" (second story) any problem with this?

You will at some point get moisture on the wall and it will stain. I'd suggest you get a line-set cover and run the drain to ground inside the cover or at least run the pvc drain line below the siding level. I ran my line set in the wall on my most recent install at my house and fond it to be al lot harder to handle the line set than those I have run down the outside wall and then through. YMMV, but I was surprised at how much of a meathead that thing made me feel. I have three Fujitsu's in the house. I haven't run the upstairs units all winter. Both downstairs units are running all the time for heat. Running very economically. Mine are not drawing power when off.

 

[Slednut]

You will at some point get moisture on the wall and it will stain. I'd suggest you get a line-set cover and run the drain to ground inside the cover or at least run the pvc drain line below the siding level. I ran my line set in the wall on my most recent install at my house and fond it to be al lot harder to handle the line set than those I have run down the outside wall and then through. YMMV, but I was surprised at how much of a meathead that thing made me feel. I have three Fujitsu's in the house. I haven't run the upstairs units all winter. Both downstairs units are running all the time for heat. Running very economically. Mine are not drawing power when off.

Thanks, I was planning on running everything down the walls (new 2x6 construction) is there any problem with this?

Sorry about the hy-jack

 

[fireant911]

I wanted to give a quick 'thank you' to coolreed for starting this thread. I had been searching for a reputable supplier to order a mini-split from and I did not ever have that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling with the ones that I had been investigating. Ordering from a local supplier was making this project unattainable/unrealistic because of the huge price markup. After reading this thread, I started looking at the ecomfort site and was pleased that ecomfort does indeed warranty the mini-split lines that they sell. I researched, researched, calculated, and researched more and eventually decided on a dual system (thanks to Jackfre). The units arrived a few weeks ago (the drywall and painting were done after the rough install) and today marks the completion of this project!

Sizing of the units was the most difficult and frustrating part of the equation because there is no common guidelines. Each calculator produced VASTLY different load calculations.

So, thank you, coolreed for sharing your experience!

 

[Jackfre]

Looking at the mr slim cool only model. Does your unit run all the time? Meaning the fan. I have heard that all mini splits do except for the Mitsubishi

You want a unit that runs pretty much all the time. That is the advantage of the inverter units. Given that they can turn down to such a low speed they are basically sampling continuously. If you plan on doing only cooling I think you will find that the seer rating will be much lower than the heat pump versions. Mitsu runs just like all the premium brands.

 

[bullnerd]

"Sizing of the units was the most difficult and frustrating part of the equation because there is no common guidelines. Each calculator produced VASTLY different load calculations."

So how did you finally decide? Whats the best way to calculate? I'm still compiling information for my new shop. Still cant decide if I want a cool only or dual unit.

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[fireant911]

So how did you finally decide? Whats the best way to calculate? I'm still compiling information for my new shop. Still cant decide if I want a cool only or dual unit.

Of all the calculators I came across, I liked the calculator on ecomfort the best ("mini-split sizing tool" on their site). Using this calculator, I came up with some values of 13,824 BTU for cooling and 12,227 BTU for heating. I also contacted the engineers at ecomfort and supplied drawings and pertinent details. This is where things got a little strange - I received a reply of 3,982 BTU for cooling and 8,333 BTU for heating (note that this is for a 400 square foot room).

The other calculators I used produced the same type of massive spread between the recommended system requirements. Rather than experience more 'paralysis by analysis', I had to make a decision. The 13,824 BTU cooling requirement seemed the most logical to me based on the rough rule of thumb of one ton per 400 square feet. Since these units are inverter driven they run based on requirements of the space. Under-sizing is to be avoided while a slight over-sizing is allowable. I would need either a single 15K unit or two 7K units based on the 'numbers'. Jackfre offered some good advice about the advantages of two units and using that information, I stepped up the units to two 9K which would provide, at least to me, ultimate flexibility. I can run one unit most of the time but when conditions warrant, the second unit can be placed on line.

I am sure that others may disagree with this logic but this is how I made my decision. There is no single right answer; instead, there are many different scenarios that will work and probably more that will not!

 

[JakeKohl]

Don't EVER trust those online "calculators". They're far too simple. I think the several calculators I tried said I needed over 24,000 BTU for my spaces. The numbers you got from your call to ecomfort sound pretty accurate with the experience I've had.

I bought a limited license to HVAC Calc to run my numbers and it said I needed about 8kbtu for cooling and about 11kbtu for heating upstairs and 14kbtu heating downstairs in a 24x36 on each floor off my two stories of a properly insulated structure in SC. It was little different up and down largely because of the slab floor downstairs sapping some heat in the winter. It even takes in factors with sun direction, windows, etc. I bought two 12kbtu units figuring that it wouldn't be a big deal that the garage was a little cool in the winter. I then had an insulation contractor come in to give me an estimate and he scared me into believing that the units were way too small. I sold those and bought 18kbtu units. I don't regret having the 18kbtu units but I have no doubt that the 12k units would have been perfectly fine. However, in the garage where I'm only periodically using the heating/cooling, it's nice to have the extra oomf to get the room to temperature quickly (10 minutes on a cold winter day to 60 degrees).