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MN Auto Shop build in a 42x90 pole barn

Mr_C

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Jan 30, 2014
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33
Location
Northern MN
I am in the middle of a shop build and just discovered this site. Some of the work is complete, but as I get into the details of finishing the shop, I am excited to get some feedback from the group. I have been reading the archives and have learned a lot already.

I am a car guy and live in MN so I only get to drive my old cars in the summer. I live on a hobby farm with many outbuildings (30x40 barn, 48x72 pole barn, 42x90 pole barn, plus smaller stuff) but haven't had anything heated so I could work on stuff when the weather was bad, and drive it when the weather was good.

After much debating, I decided to partition off part of my 42x90 pole barn and pour a floor and insulate it to make it a shop. I picked that shed because it is only a few years old and is in by far the best shape, and is where I store most of my stuff (I rent space to friends in other sheds). I didn't do the whole shed because of expense, cost in heating the whole area, and I am doing 90% of the work myself, so it would take too long.

Below is the basic plan at full occupancy. I don't plan on having that much stuff in there, but wanted to plan for it. The lower part of the pick is the front door and cold storage (with cars parked in as they currently are for winter storage). The upper part is the new heated shop. I didn't add additional doors to access the shop area from the back side because the adjacent buildings and landscape prevent it.

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The truck in the upper part of the pic is sitting where the 2 post hoist will be. The paint booth will come later (but I am making sure I have the space for it), and will be more for having a separate area to sand and prime than serious painting. It will have a bi-fold door on the side, which isn't ideal, but it won't be a high traffic area. The overall layout is to have space for a long term project or 2 (to the left) while still having room to use the hoist and do light work in the center. The right will be used for warm storage until I get the paint booth built.


I built the Morton building in 2009, and it had a dirt floor. First step was concrete, so I dug out 12" of dirt, put in 4" of sand, packed and leveled it, added 2" of insulation and then a 6" concrete slab. The slab has rebar and microfiber, heat pipe and additional rebar below the hoist. 4" of insulation separate the slab from the outside walls.

This is as I was digging out the floor-
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Here is one of the few pics I have of the front of the building, and 2 of 4 loads of sand (and my insulation for under the concrete in the background).

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Insulation and rebar-

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Pex laid out and ready to pour (area without pex towards the back is for the hoist and floor drains, so no heat there-

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Getting ready to pour (the only part I have paid someone else to do so far)

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It was getting cold by this time (November) so I covered the concrete with plastic and 2" of pink insulation and let it sit and cure for 3 weeks.

I then built a wood divider wall to separate the cold and warm halves. I haven't built a door for it yet (it will be a wood slider that slides to the right and have a walk through door in it) so I am temporarily using a large tarp.

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I then pulled the insulation off the floor, and used it on the walls. I had considered spray in foam, but it was spendy and they couldn't spray in the cold here anyway.

I am currently working on the ceiling. I am putting up a plastic barrier first, that should at least hold the heat in. I will then put up tin and blow in insulation. I got most of the plastic up yesterday.

Used some boards on the scaffolding to hold up the plastic (I put it all up by myself so I didn't have any extra hands)

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I have limited time to work on this (these pics happened over the course of the last 5 months) but I will have more time this weekend. I am not sure if I am going to try to tackle the tin ceiling or the door this weekend. Right now I am leaning towards the door, as the tarp isn't doing a lot to keep the cold out, and this winter we have been getting a lot of cold.
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
I made a little more progress over the weekend. I finished putting the plastic up on the ceiling, which made a HUGE difference in my ability to heat the shop. I have a 150kbtu nipco style heater that didn't make any impact in the temp of the shed unless you were in front of it, now it can bring up the temp to a good workable temperature even when it is around 0*F outside.

I also insulated the front wall and built the new sliding door. I built it out of wood and made it thicker than your average door so I could insulate it well. Plus, I put a entry door in it so I can easily enter the shop. I put it in the sliding door so I wouldn't loose any wall space.

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Next I need to put up the sliders for the entry door and insulate it. Then it is time to start working on putting up the ceiling.
 

bfarroo

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Jul 5, 2012
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Green Bay WI
I'd be interested in how the slider ends up working. I'm planning on sectioning off my shop and was thinking of doing the same instead of another insulated overhead door between the two areas.
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
I made a bit more progress this weekend. I got farther on insulating and was able to hang the door so it now slides properly. This is the first sliding door I have installed from scratch (I have a few on other sheds that I have repaired). I found it to be surprisingly easy and straightforward to install with just 2 people. I know this is a sort of odd door, but here are the reasons I went for it.

1) Good insulation- Because it is a solid door (no hinged sections) there are no seams to try to seal other than the edges around the door. I was able to engineer a sufficient overlap so I can put a lever on each side to pull the door tight and seal. Also, because I built the door with 2x4s, I an put cheap Styrofoam insulation in with an insulation value of R14. I could have bought an insulated door, but it would have more seams and have been expensive.

2) Size- I was able to custom build my door size to be optimal for my wall. In this case I was concerned about height, so I built the door 12ft high and 14 feet wide.

3) Conserving interior space - Because it isn't an overhead door, I don't have to worry about door rails going along my ceiling in the garage, or shutting the door to get it out of the way so I can lift the hoist. Also, was able to put my entry door in the sliding door, so I don't have to waste any wall space with an entry door, giving me more room for shelves, workbench, etc.

4) Cheaper- I will have about $450 total into the door including the cost of the steel insulated entry door and the insulation.

I am normally not a fan of sliding doors, but because this is indoors, it won't have the same issue of snow/ice build up preventing it from working correctly, so I think it will be a good option. Once I get it insulated completely and the latches installed, I will have a better idea of just how tight I can seal it.

This weekend I also managed to pick up all the steel for my ceiling and got a sheetrock lift to help install it. I hope to work out the details in getting the tin installed this week and then get some people over this weekend to help install it.

Here is a pic of the door from the outside, where you can see that the door is the same size as the wall, so I was able to make the door a full 14 ft wide to maximize the available space.

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Here you can see the door from the inside, I haven't yet insulated the door or put ply up on the inside of it.

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Mr_C

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Northern MN
I have made some more progress, the ceiling is now completely tinned! I was able to get my hands on a sheetrock lift with an extension so it would reach the 13.5' ceiling, so besides being time consuming, it really wasn't very difficult. I did it with just my 17 year old son's help, and 1/4 of it I did alone. The scaffolding definitely made it a lot easier though.

I also insulated and put plywood on the front wall everywhere except right around the door. I need to get into my other shed to get the last of the insulation to finish that part up.

Plus, I have the sliding door insulated (2" of styrofoam) and all the handles/latches on it. I am quite happy with how well it seals up considering how large it is.

Next steps are to finish the front wall and paint it (the only part I need to paint since everything else will be tin), to put another layer of insulation on and put the ply over the inside of the door, and blow in insulation in the ceiling.

After that, its time to add the door/windows and tin the other 3 walls. I am getting very close to having usable shop space. :)

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Mr_C

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Northern MN
I did not us any J channel. The walls will actually stick out a little farther (I need to add supporting 2x4's horizontally to the posts to attach the tin to) so I will make sure I have a good finish at the top of the walls. You will never be able to see the edges of the tin on the ceiling.

As for using the J channel on the walls, I haven't figured that part out yet. :)
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
BTW, stngfever, mustangs are one of the main drivers of building this shop. If you look I the background of my shots, there are 5 different mustangs (4 of which are mine), and I have some big plans for some of them, of which I want a nice shop to work in. Last summer I replaced the entire front suspension in my '71 convertible on jackstands in a dark shop that didn't keep the wind out well and the floor would get wet when it rained. The next big project is going to be much more enjoyable. :)

Nice to see another mustang lover in the group.
 

stngfever

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Apr 2, 2013
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89
Location
West Michigan
Thanks for the info Mr C.

Now that you mention it, I see the ponies! My current stable consists of (2) 07 Shelby GT's (2nd one picked up this past summer to feed my track addiction).

They are the primary reason for my build as well.
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
Another quick update, I spent most of my time over the last few weeks doing finishing stuff, such as getting the insulation in the corners of the walls and ceilings, but I also managed to make some significant progress.

First, I finished off my front wall. It is now complete insulated, covered in ply and painted white. I now have a wall that is "done" so I can set up some benches and shelves and use them there for a while without having to worry about moving them.

The second piece was I blew in the insulation in the ceiling. This ended up being a much longer task that I had suspected. I used loose fill fiberglass insulation as it seemed like a better option than cellulose (although only arguably so). I decided to go with R50, which required 19" of insulation. I calculated that I needed 45 bags. I bought 50 instead so I wouldn't run out. I rented a blower from a local rental place on recommendations from friends. They felt that the blowers for rent at the local home supply store (Menards) were abused and not well maintained, so I went to a RentAll location. When I called and asked one rental store, they asked if I was blowing in Celulose or fiberglass. I said fiberglass and he said his machine was just for cellulose and would take longer, so I should go to another one of their stores who had one for fiberglass. I stopped by that store and they said they just had one machine, and being out of time (I was blowing the next morning), I just rented that one.

Based on what I read, it should take 90 minutes to blow R30 on 1000 square feet. I was putting in R50 into 1800 square feet, so it should take about 3 times that, or 4.5-5 hours. We didn't have any issues with the blower and my friend was able to keep it running smoothly. I noticed I was going through insulation a little faster than I calculated and ended up having to send someone for 5 more bags. It also took just over 8 hours of solid blowing time instead of the estimated 5. I assume that both of these are caused by the blower designed for Cellulose not fluffing the fiberglass quite as much, and not blowing it as efficiently as it could. I am somewhat disappointed in that, but other than that the insulation went well and it should help it retain heat much better.

Now my issue is that it is spring, the weather is warming up and my shed is insulated. It is frequently warmer outside than inside, and my shop doesn't want to warm up. I am trying to open the doors on days when it is warmer outside just to get the concrete to absorb some of the heat.

Next steps are to finish the insulation on the other 3 walls and install the tin. I can do that for about half of the area, but before I do the other half I will have to install my entry door and windows first. I want warmer weather before I tackle that project.

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Mr_C

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Location
Northern MN
Its been a while but most of the work I have been doing hasn't been very visible, so no updates. I am working on putting tin up one the walls that won't have doors/windows. Before I can do that, I needed to finish the insulation (put up a second layer of Styrofoam, us spray in foam to fill any cracks) and deal with my heat pipes. When I poured the floor I thought I was only going to use 2/3s of this space for the shop, so I had heat pipe come out in 2 places. I have now changed my mind, so I want to run the pipe through the walls to the main location. It wasn't hard but I had to extend the PEX, put insulation on it and secure it to the inner wall. I now nearly have the first wall complete with the shop is really starting to come together.

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Mr_C

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Another minor update. I finished the tin wrapping around the corner. I have finally hit a point where I feel like I don't have much to do with that wall for a while so I can bring in a vehicle without feeling like it will be in the way.

I also figured out what hoist I am going to get. After a ridiculous amount of research, I have come to the conclusion that the BendPak 10k symmetrical lift is the right one for me, mostly based on price/quality, very positive reviews, and overall width so I can put a car trailer or dual wheeled vehicle under it. A large portion of my research was on GJ. I think I will be ordering it from summit shortly.

I still have about 24' of tin I can put up on another wall and then I need to start framing in a walk in door and a few windows so I can finish off the inside tin.

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Mr_C

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Northern MN
It's a Morton building, all of the interior work has been done by me. Located near Moorhead.
 

gordyy

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Jan 10, 2013
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North Dakota
Well a fellow GJ frequenter I very likely was driving by yesterday was in the FM area out to Hawley and Glyndon then south of Moorhead. By the way nice work on your shop!
Ken
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
Thanks for the positive feedback guys...

I made a little more progress on the shop this weekend. I put up 20' of tin on the wall and framed in an entry door. I have 2 windows to frame and I will be able to finish the tin shortly.

Also, I ordered my Bendpak 2 post 10k lift today. :)

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Mr_C

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Northern MN
it's actually an old bronco. Its a '73 model with 351w, auto and power steering. I bought it out of a tree row many years back, put in the 351, rebuilt the motor, added a twinstick shifter, lifted it, added the 35" tires, limited slips in the axles, custom bumpers, painted it and massaged the suspension so it would really flex. By the time I was done I had a truck that would cruise down the interstate at 70mph, and still ramp 1000 forwards and backwards. I have had a ton of fun with it because I have a habit of driving out to trails and then passing trailer queens with it. :) It helps that at the time I was doing the suspension I was working at a 4x4 shop, but it was built on a shoestring budget.

Here's some pics

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This last pic shows one of my favorite details, I tinted the windows to match the camo paint. It is so natural looking, that most people never even notice it.
 
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Mr_C

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I have finally hit another milestone worthy of a post update. I finished all the insulation and inside tin (but still need to do a little trim work). This suddenly made it feel less like a pole barn and more like a shop. Definitely a step in the right direction.

I still need to install the walk in door and the windows, but I have been putting that of because it keeps raining and I would rather not cut holes in the tin when it is going to be wet.

The other big accomplishment was I got my BendPak XPR-10 2 post hoist, and installed it. I started unpacking it off the trailer yesterday at 1:30 and by 9:30 I didn't have much left to do but get it wired so I could do the final adjustments. I had some helpers (mostly to help lift), and took a few breaks so it was about 6 hours of work or so. The instructions weren't as clear as I had hoped so sometimes I had to read things over a few times to figure out exactly what they wanted. I will be hooking up power today, but even without lifting anything, I am very impressed with the overall quality and strength of the hoist.

I have a few maintenance items on some cars that I have been putting off because I wanted to get the hoist up first, so I can't wait to try it out.

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gordyy

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Take lots of pictures I don't think my shop was ever that clean LOL

you are so going to like that hoist!
I went from growing up having hoists or pits at my disposal all the time till 15 years or so again. Last year I scored a used Rotary 2 post and cannot believe I waited that long to get one. Now the list of accessories starts LOL My first was the dump bucket (with air powered discharge for oil) looked around online and at HF and Northern they all sell the same one. Ordered it from Amazon for $99 frt included. Than a couple of the 6 ft tall stands. got them at Northern in fargo for the same as off the internet handy as hell when the super duty or maxi-cab diesels are up, they both weigh within 500 lbs of max weight and I have no extra room to balance perfectly so the stands under them makes for a secure feeling of no rockin and rollin.
 
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Mr_C

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gordyy,

My shop isn't as clean as it looks (although the goal is to keep the shop clean and the **** in other sheds). Because I just put up the walls that were visible in the pic, I haven't had time to set up any shelving there. The walls outside of the pic that have shelving don't look as pretty, but I am working on that.

Funny you mention the extra tools. I was actually surfing yesterday looking at oil drain buckets. I decided to go with the HF one, but now I guess I need to check out amazon first. I also planned on looking at some stands as well. I have used them in the past when working on suspensions where you need to hold parts of the suspension up. I haven't used them to stabilize a vehicle, but that seems like a great idea.


Thanks for the advice, your timing was perfect.
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
One more update from the weekend. I finished installing and adjusting the hoist and picked up the first car with it (my wife's car needed some maintenance, so it got to be my test vehicle). The hoist worked flawlessly and made those repair jobs way easier.

Secondly, I put in the side entry door. You can see from the pictures how much light it lets in. The door has a smaller window than the 6 windows I am installing, so I am excited to get that additional light. Unfortunately, it is raining constantly now, so it may be a while before I can get the windows in. It also really helps get airflow through the shop, which will help warm it up this spring.

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gordyy

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North Dakota
Looking good always nice to use a new time saver for the first time gives a person a sense of accomplishment
 
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Mr_C

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Northern MN
Let there be light! I put in all the windows (rain really slowed me down). It is amazing how much light I get through them and the ability to get some air flowing through the shop is great. Especially when we get a warm day and I want to warm up the shop (unfortunately, insulation keeps my shop cool in the spring).

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I am also Loving the hoist! I have done a few brake jobs and tire swaps, and have found it is very handy for less typical work as well, such as

Removing the cab from my COE truck (I am fixing it up and it will be placed on a modern chassis)

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I also found it worked well for doing some spring maintenance on the lawn mower....

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I think the next big project will be installing some lights. I purchased 16 4ft 2 T8 bulb florescent lights, now to get some conduit and start installing them.
 

GRN96WS6

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Dec 23, 2012
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SOMD
I really need a two post in my life, ugh damn housing prices here are ridiculous!!
 

gordyy

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Location
North Dakota
mower maintenance was one of the reason's I bought my Rotary had to make a ramp and rail lift adaptor for it so that I could easily lift my tractors the frame on the subcompacts is so close together its scary lifting with the arms too tippy
 
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Mr_C

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Gordyy, I plan on making some ramps as well so I can lift other small machine more easily. I also plan on making some sort of adaptor so I can lift motorcycles with it as well. I have seen a few different designs but haven't figured out exactly what I want.

Sunbimmer, The COE is my next big project. I am taking this 51 Ford COE body, and putting it on top of a 99 E350 dually Powerstroke diesel van chassis I have (currently it is a "people mover", so I have to pull the cab and body off of it). I also have a dually truck bed off a 99-2004 Superduty. I will have to do a little adjusting to make it all fit, but the goal is a stub nosed 1 ton dually diesel pickup that I can pull a gooseneck trailer around with or just haul stuff. I am vaguely modeling it after this truck- http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1139653-1948-ford-coe.html

I have acquired all the major parts, and now that I have a shop to work in I am starting the process. I have a few more things to pull off the cab and then I will have it soda blasted and start on the body work.
 
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