Hey. Where would I find electrical codes for minnesota? I have googled to the best of my ability, with no luck. Is there a good web site or what department would I call? I have just finnished building my un attached garage and now need to wire it and am looking to see what all is required to be "correct". Any help would be appreciated!
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MN electrical codes
- Thread starter Gus68
- Start date
aandpdan
Well-known member
It's a national code but there are some changes.
Ask your local building dept or wiring inspector what revision they're on. Not everyone is on 2011 (latest). It comes out every 3 years.
Ask your local building dept or wiring inspector what revision they're on. Not everyone is on 2011 (latest). It comes out every 3 years.
Hey. Where would I find electrical codes for minnesota? I have googled to the best of my ability, with no luck. Is there a good web site or what department would I call? I have just finnished building my un attached garage and now need to wire it and am looking to see what all is required to be "correct". Any help would be appreciated!
http://www.mikeholt.com/necadoptionlist.php
According to the link above link, "2011 NEC without amendment, effective date August 8, 2011".
Does anyone know if I can simply wire my garage like a house with wires running in the walls and then cover that with 1/2" sheet rock? In Minnesota? That was my plan, but an old electrition told me If I wanted to use 1/2" that I would have to run everything in conduit OUTSIDE the walls. If I wanted to run INSIDE the walls like I want, I must use 5/8" sheet rock and some sort of heavy covered wire. I told the lumberyard I built the garage with about this and they said they have never heard of that before. This is NOT a commercial garage or attached to my house. I have seen it done like I planned many times before, but ofcouse that don't mean its right. I would just like to know for sure and not what he says or he says.
sberry
Banned
Not eveyone that does some wiring is an electrician. Garages are done like houses all the time.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
As mentioned, Minnesota uses the 2011 National Electric Code (also known as NFPA 70.) You may be able to find a copy at the local library.
Unless you have some weird restrictions in your particular town there's no problem with using regular Romex-type wiring in a garage in Minnesota, I have it in mine. Note that the wiring from the house to the garage (assuming it's buried) has to be rated for underground use so you can't use Romex for that part.
Unless you have some weird restrictions in your particular town there's no problem with using regular Romex-type wiring in a garage in Minnesota, I have it in mine. Note that the wiring from the house to the garage (assuming it's buried) has to be rated for underground use so you can't use Romex for that part.
You'll probably get more responses if this was posted in the lighting & electrical section. Maybe PM a Mod to move it for you ?
WaltzW
Member
Most municipalities use the NEC with some additions to the code they have incorporated into their own code/permits. Most of these changes are for structures that contain human occupancy, like smoke detectors,arc fault and GFCI, and so on. It's code where I live that an attached garage must have 5/8" drywall at least on the common or connecting wall to the home,mostly for fire code,just like a fire rated door connecting your garage to your home.
I can only speak from my experience, but where I live I have obtained a "home owners electrical license". Which allows me to perform all the electrical work ( I still had to take a electrician's test approved by the city and pay a yearly license fee), which still needs to be inspected by the city's electrical inspector. I would recommend anyone to keep a copy of the current NEC code book on their shelf. They're not that expensive for a new one and the code does not usually make big changes from year to year, so picking up a used copy within five years of the current date is a cost effective way to go. Most fires are electrical related, why not play it safe? If I ever have a question, our city electrical inspector is available to answer questions in person or via telephone at regular set times during the day. And, thats what I suggest you start with a call to your local municipality/building dept., and ask your questions? After all, they are going to issue the permit and inspect the work.
BTW, there's a learning curve to understanding the NEC book. IMHO the book is written 20% electrical and 80% lawyer speak. But once you get used to it, you can find your answer quite easily.
I can only speak from my experience, but where I live I have obtained a "home owners electrical license". Which allows me to perform all the electrical work ( I still had to take a electrician's test approved by the city and pay a yearly license fee), which still needs to be inspected by the city's electrical inspector. I would recommend anyone to keep a copy of the current NEC code book on their shelf. They're not that expensive for a new one and the code does not usually make big changes from year to year, so picking up a used copy within five years of the current date is a cost effective way to go. Most fires are electrical related, why not play it safe? If I ever have a question, our city electrical inspector is available to answer questions in person or via telephone at regular set times during the day. And, thats what I suggest you start with a call to your local municipality/building dept., and ask your questions? After all, they are going to issue the permit and inspect the work.
BTW, there's a learning curve to understanding the NEC book. IMHO the book is written 20% electrical and 80% lawyer speak. But once you get used to it, you can find your answer quite easily.
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pattenp
Well-known member
You can wire your detached garage like a house and use 1/2 drywall. Two points.. place the cable centered through the studs and it's best to use steel protection plates to protect the wire from nails or screws than may be driven too deep. Also GFCI protect the 120V outlets.
Northstar
Well-known member
A not an expert, but in new homes you can still do the garage like thehouse. Every hole you put in a stud to run through the wall must get a plate so you can't screw into the wire. This also applies to the top and bottom plates if wire runs through those. GFI the whole system. You can run over the rafters without attaching, though Iprefer to attach. Wire taples need to be less than 6" form the boxes or receptacles and within 12" on studs.
I prefer to have several circuits for the main work area in case there's several people using high draw tools all at once. I also like having a basic light setup for when I just need some light to do simple stuff and another set for high detail. (I have 6-100 watt bulb lights for basic light, and when I need more, the other circuit is 2-20 foot banks of flourescents. White ceiling and walls help reflect and it's like daylight een in daylight.
I prefer to have several circuits for the main work area in case there's several people using high draw tools all at once. I also like having a basic light setup for when I just need some light to do simple stuff and another set for high detail. (I have 6-100 watt bulb lights for basic light, and when I need more, the other circuit is 2-20 foot banks of flourescents. White ceiling and walls help reflect and it's like daylight een in daylight.
It's code where I live that an attached garage must have 5/8" drywall at least on the common or connecting wall to the home,mostly for fire code,just like a fire rated door connecting your garage to your home.
.
What he said...
to the OP: Are you sure you aren't confusing building / fire code with electrical code?
pattenp
Well-known member
A not an expert, but in new homes you can still do the garage like thehouse. Every hole you put in a stud to run through the wall must get a plate so you can't screw into the wire. This also applies to the top and bottom plates if wire runs through those. GFI the whole system. You can run over the rafters without attaching, though Iprefer to attach. Wire taples need to be less than 6" form the boxes or receptacles and within 12" on studs.
I prefer to have several circuits for the main work area in case there's several people using high draw tools all at once. I also like having a basic light setup for when I just need some light to do simple stuff and another set for high detail. (I have 6-100 watt bulb lights for basic light, and when I need more, the other circuit is 2-20 foot banks of flourescents. White ceiling and walls help reflect and it's like daylight een in daylight.
Nail plates are only required if the bored hole is closer than 1 1/4" from the outer edge.
NM is required to be supported/fastened at least every 4 1/2', even when run across the tops of rafters.
NM is to be fastened within 12" of every jbox, outlet box. There is no less than 6" requirement.
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Northstar
Well-known member
pattenp-do you have the requirements for MN?