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Mobile vs Fixed storage cabinets?

judavis126

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I am in need of some storage cabinets in my garage/shop. I plan to build two storage cabinets out of wood, 4ft wide X 6ft high X 2ft deep. I am undecided if I should put them on casters or build them fixed and mounted to the wall. I would prefer mobile so I can easily move and rearrange if needed but my main concern is the stability and the possibility of them tipping over. Any ideas or suggestion? Thanks
 
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Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
Make small lip (or small plate) at the to bolt through. 2 screws and they are mobile.
For easier mobility just attach a short cable or chain and put a hook on the wall.
 

zendriver

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I'm planning my 3 car garage with everything on wheels, to maximize space usage, for painting projects, or parties.. Etc. IMO whether ur design would tip would depend on the condition of your garage floor and what u had in the cabinet. Heavier stuff down low better.

I have one of those cheapie metal closed long door storage cabinets and some heavy duty wire storage shelves, both without wheels I plan to make some 2x4 "dollies" with some decent size ball bearing castors, from HF and mount them on.

I also want to make a rolling platform with pallets mounted on their sides, to store brooms, shovels, rakes etc.

I want nothing mounted to the walls


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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judavis126

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I had a similar idea but this suggestion would make it a bit more rigid.

Also, I didn't realize that was my 1st post. Thought I did that back when I joined.
 

homebuilt burner

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The shop at work has everything on wheels. It sure makes it easy to clean the shop, just wheel the cabinets away from the walls and sweep where they were before moving them back.
 
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judavis126

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Zendriver,

I am in a similar situation, 3 car detached garage. Its full of machines and tools. I lack storage options and its hindering my ability to stay organized and be productive. I should have done it right to begin with but I didn't

Only other issue I may have is, about 6 inches from the walls, the concrete slab slopes up about 3/8" - 1/2" towards the concrete "step"... I don't know the proper term for describing that part of a slab. I'd have to come up with a way to level the cabinet. Otherwise it will lean forward. That issue is one of the main reasons I was considering fixed cabinets attached to the walls.
 

nadogail

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6' high and only 2' deep, IMHO you are correct to question their vertical stability when being moved. They will be seismically unstable; that is dangerous.
 
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judavis126

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I pretty much have everything mobile now, Delta Unisaw, out feed table, jointer, planer, band saw, miter saw, router table, dust collection, welder, cutting torch... Only machines that will never be "mobile" are my lathes.
 
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judavis126

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Could build it with the same dimensions but increase the depth of the base by 6 inches. Then make the doors out of 2x6's on edge to have some door storage for spray cans, power tools and similar items. 6 more inches is 25% more depth, more stability, and could still maximize a sheet of plywood. Only thing is I couldn't have the cabinets next to each other because the doors will hit. Anyone have any pictures or web links to a similar build?
 

sberry

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2x6 will be stable especially if a guy puts the ballast items in the bottom. I have some on wheels but my situation is a shop andnot garage where every item needs a stor space. I have a couple things on wheels but most modified for a pallet jack.
I have half a dozen carts I converted to shelves that had wheels. If you look at the white tool shelf can see the cut outs on the bottom, other shelves have 1st shelf rigged for a jack.
 

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judavis126

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The problem with a 30" deep cabinet is I would have a lot of waste in regards to the plywood. I could build the cabinets with the 4ft wide X 6ft high X 2ft deep dimensions and put it on an over sized base with out much waste but then that will be taking up even more floor space.
 

sberry

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I have about 50 different versions of this tailored for each job. I agree, 2 ft material if possible. Make first shelf hi enough a guy could slide totes under it. No 2 must look alike, salvage some build some, people gave me some nice pieces that would have cost a fortune to build and to tell the truth I rarely actually build something like this anymore.
These pics are only meant to be descriptive and a lot are old but merely to give some idea.
 

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sberry

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You could improve the finish on any of these items, on occasion we do. The electric cart we converted in a day with no parts cost.
Here is a little clutter catcher I changed out recently for free, Someone gave the desk, it was loose and I added 1 piece and 2 additional sheet metal screws. The fit was perfect, I have had several versions of shelves, boxes, cutter here, some way past their good use and lasted due to the fact it was what we had moving in and often stayed.
This is perfect, I try to keep it cleared a little but we can see deliveries, anything I want to go I drop here.
 

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csp

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The point was that seismic activity isn't likely to be the cause if it does fall. Just another reason to pay attention to an individual's location as what is valid in one area isn't necessarily in another.

If you build it right and load it correctly, it won't come falling down.
 
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LXCam

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I'd suggest you use 2x8 as a base with an open front. That way you could trim for you floor issue. Then get a pallet jack for the occasion they need to be moved. Almost everything in my shop is on wheels or can be moved with a pallet jack. It's the only way to go when it's a limited space.
 
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judavis126

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csp,
I was just kidding around.

LXCam,
Not making excuses but then I'd have to buy and store a pallet jack. None the less good idea. Thanks
 
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judavis126

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Could always do something similar to Rikon's mobile base for its band saws. Have two wheels on one side and fixed legs on the other side and use a tow bar to lift and move it around but that doesn't solve the uneven floor problem near the walls.
 

gipp

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I built a frame out of an old bed frame and put casters on that. Set the cabinet in the frame and now I can relocate or just move it to clean underneath it.
 

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judavis126

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After reading some more I think if I want them to be mobile I will have to have some sort of leveling feet because of my uneven floor issue. Don't really see a way around that. I may just have to build some built in cabinets. Maybe one on each side of a smaller workbench, my workbench is 16ft right now, with some smaller cabinets up high above the workbench.
Thanks for all the suggestion so far and more are always appreciated.
 

LXCam

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csp,
I was just kidding around.

LXCam,
Not making excuses but then I'd have to buy and store a pallet jack. None the less good idea. Thanks


Ya buddy, they aren't small. But you can also use a motorcycle lift or my personal favorite, a hydraulic table. Mine gets used every damn day. Double duty my friend.
 
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judavis126

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You got me thinking, my engine hoist may go up high enough to hook onto the cabinets to move them around. I think it goes up to about 8ft but I'd need to check the angle of the boom at that height and look at a few other things but that could be a viable option. Thanks!
 

buening

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My cabinet is 2' deep x 4' wide x 8' tall (full sheets of plywood). I used 3/4" plywood for everything but the back, which was 1/2". The bottom has a recessed kick plate like kitchen cabinets, and the bottom is reinforced with 2x4s if I recall correctly. They are definitely not on casters due to stability, but have enough screws into wall studs that they aren't going anywhere. Since the shelves have a 4' clear span, reinforcement of the 3/4" plywood shelves were needed. I used steel angles screwed to the face of the shelf. See the 2nd page of the following thread for pics of mine: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124630

The major weakness in the cabinet are the shelf adjustment clips. The clips at the sides will snap before the shelf ever starts to bend. I probably should have put an extra strip of clips on each end. Either that or directly screwing the shelf to the cabinet, which loses adjustability. In the pic is a 45lb Hitachi 12" miter saw and a 50lb Rage 2 saw on a single shelf, with no bowing.
 
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judavis126

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Your cabinets look good. That is similar to what I have in mind. In regards to the adjustable shelving strips, if you were to build the cabinets again, would you just ad an extra strip like you said or go with an entirely different product? Do you have any more pictures on any other threads? Thanks
 

buening

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Thanks. I couldn't really find many options for adjustable shelves. It was either these strips/clips, or the little steel dowel pins which I figured wouldn't support much. I only looked at the box stores, I'm sure cabinet websites may have something heavier duty. My shelves will hold about 125lbs before the clips start to give way. Its mostly an issue with shelves half way up the cabinet, as that is where the sides aren't as stable and you get a combination of the clips collapsing and the cabinet sides pushing out. The clips would add a bit more strength.

You'd be doing quite well if you load a shelf with this much weight. I really have no regrets. I need to snaps some pictures of the entire cabinet setup this weekend.
 

buening

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Here are a few pics I took over the weekend. Everything except the obvious Craftsman tool boxes were built by me. I recessed T8 strip light on the bottom of the cabinet. The picture with oil and fluids is the inside of one of the cabinets above the workbench, the other is the tall cabinet. As you can see they are definitely not under-loaded. All I have left to do is get a steel plate for the benchtop (or possibly stainless). Any questions, just ask!
 

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Aggie 2002

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Hey buening, those cabinets look great. I keep going back and forth on buying NewAge for $1500 or so or building my own. Any chance you have a build log or pictures of how you built those cabinets?
 
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judavis126

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Buening,
Those cabinets look good! What paint did you use and did you edge band your plywood doors?

I have decided to scrap the mobile cabinet idea and build some built ins. Also decided to go a full 8ft tall... May as well since I need the storage space. I picked up some 1/2" & 3/4" birch ply. I keep tossing around the idea of framing it with 2x4's for the stronger shelves but then again, how strong does it really need to be?
 
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I don't build as a permanent fixture in my garage. All shelving, workbenches and heavy tools are on lockable casters. Saved me a big mess just yesterday when the water heater blew.
 
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judavis126

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A**holes Garage,

So what kind of mobile shelving or cabinets do you have? How would you build a cabinet on casters for an uneven floor? The uneven floor problem is why I have decide to build them fixed to the wall. I've seen the lifting/leveling casters but I think they are a bit pricey. Thanks
 
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I have shelves like these, I got them cheaper a few years back. Lots of sources for them.

I have about 9 of them. Six against the wall and 3 separating the garage.

http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-EcoSt...ncludes-Wheels-|-Chrome.product.11670614.html

I imagine the casters could clear cracks in the floor etc. with a little assistance. My floors and walls taper a bit as well, maybe not as much as yours.

if ever I need to move them or need to clean under them, etc. just unlock and move them. When the water heater blew, I had puddling under the racks, against the baseboards that share a guest bedroom wall. If I would have had permanent shelving to the floor, it would have just sucked up that moisture or ruined the baseboard for sure.
 
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buening

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No build log or build pics, sorry. I can provide the following info though:

Floor Cabinet:
I used frameless cabinet construction which relies on the back of the cabinet for strength. I used 1/2" plywood, but would probably go with 3/4" if I were to build more. Its a little flimsy when not nailed to the wall. The back is an entire 4x8 sheet. The cabinet sides are 3/4" oak and is just a full sheet cut in half, plus the cutout for the toe kick. The cabinet floor is also 3/4" oak plywood, and is atop the toe kick (not against the garage floor) much like a kitchen cabinet. I used the following adjustable shelf clips and strips, which were recessed in the cabinet side panels using a dado blade.

21999-01-1000.jpg


I recessed them in the sides so that the shelves could be slid into place, otherwise they would have to be tilted into place since the shelf would need notched for the strips. Since the cabinet back was only 1/2", I couldn't recess the strips so they required notching of the shelf. Functionality isn't affected though. As mentioned earlier, these are the main weakness of my cabinet. I was able to sit on a shelf and it would support me, but over time the clips get weak and pop out if you overload the shelf like my 180lb self. FYI I used 2 strips on each cabinet side, and 2 on the back wall. I would recommend 3 strips on each cabinet side, or a stronger system if you plan on really loading it up. The 2 on the back wall seem sufficient.

The shelves are also 3/4" oak plywood, with 1"x1"x1/4" thick angle iron. This matches the dimensions of the 3/4" plywood well. I drilled, chamfered, and countersunk holes in the angles so that regular construction screws could be used. I applied bondo over the screws for a flush look.

I wanted the large cabinet to house my chargers, so I cut a hole for the wall outlet through the back of the cabinet once I had it fully built and located the cabinet on the wall.

For the doors, I used 3/4" MDF and just bought some self closing hinges off ebay.

Cabinets above workbench:
The small cabinets I built into 3 sections and used the same materials as the large cabinet. I dimensioned them to be exactly 8' long when mounted, so that it matched my workbench length. For the height, I took the 8' tall cabinet height and subtracted both my workbench height and the clearance I wanted from the workbench to the bottom of the cabinet. Off the top of my head, the bench is 36" tall and I wanted 18" clear so that resulted in a 42" tall cabinet. I extended the cabinet sides and bottom front face down 3 or 4" to house the strip lights. Its a similar principle as the large cabinet and the kick plate, in terms of locating the inside cabinet bottom. Once the 3 cabinet sections were complete I screwed them together to make one long unit. They were done because of the recessed lights. They are a bit heavy to hang though.

The light became more of a headache than I thought, mostly to poor planning. I wanted to use 2 four foot T8 housings, but with a cabinet exactly 8' long the housings ended up protruding through the ends of the cabinet. So I cut down a 4'er to create a 3' light, so I have a two bulb 4'er and two bulb 3'er. The ballast is enclosed in the 1' area between the two lights. The light housings I purchased ended up being too deep than I wanted, so I cut them down to be more shallow. Ton of work for lighting, but glad I incorporated it.

As for paint, I used plain ol Rustoleum in a gallon/quart can. It was either the Gloss Smoke Gray or Charcoal Gray, if I'm not mistaken. Its the darker of the two grays they offer, in case I got the wrong color stated. Thinned it and sprayed it from an HVLP gun.


In terms of casters, I personally wouldn't recommend them with a cabinet of this dimension. 8' tall and only 2' deep results in it potentially being pretty top heavy depending on how you load it. With my toe kicks, I can pretty easily tip it forward when unloaded and not screwed to the wall. I would think casters would even further reduce the stability since the footprint is technically smaller. I just moved this cabinet into my new garage a few months ago, so that experience is pretty fresh in my mind.

A tip on installing the cabinets above the bench, they weigh enough that I created an 18" tall scaffold out of 2x4s, so that me and my helper just lifted the cabinet onto this scaffold sitting on my workbench. Essentially 2x4s vertically as columns and 2x4 cross bracing to the columns for stability, and slapped an old sheet of plywood atop it for a smooth flat surface for the cabinet to rest. This allowed me to take my time leveling the cabinet (shimming the scaffold) and screwing the cabinet to the wall.
 
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I am in need of some storage cabinets in my garage/shop. I plan to build two storage cabinets out of wood, 4ft wide X 6ft high X 2ft deep. I am undecided if I should put them on casters or build them fixed and mounted to the wall. I would prefer mobile so I can easily move and rearrange if needed but my main concern is the stability and the possibility of them tipping over. Any ideas or suggestion? Thanks
In my opinion, you should go with Fixed storage cabinets because if you are planning to build 6ft height cabinets and with this height, your mobile cabinet can face stability concerns.
 

racecougar

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In my opinion, you should go with Fixed storage cabinets because if you are planning to build 6ft height cabinets and with this height, your mobile cabinet can face stability concerns.
You pulled up a thread from 2016 just to state that? I expect the OP has made a decision by now.
 
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