jimreed2160
Well-known member
Nice project for fall.
Model A Ford garage
- Thread starter bolensboneyard
- Start date
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Exactly what I am thinking Jim. Cooler weather give me ambition. I also still have to finish editing my manuscript so I can get it off to copy wright. It's hard for me to do tedious inside work.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: sorry I didn't read the beginning of your thread to hear if that banner with BOLENS on it was your company, a relative's or just a name you like?
good to see you brought in the motor for your mill into your garage to work on during the winter cause Andy isn't the only member wanting to see you cut a few logs. best of luck with restoring that.
just curious does the engine run now or is it a complete rebuild and maybe a few new parts needed to make it run again?
cheers
good to see you brought in the motor for your mill into your garage to work on during the winter cause Andy isn't the only member wanting to see you cut a few logs. best of luck with restoring that.
just curious does the engine run now or is it a complete rebuild and maybe a few new parts needed to make it run again?
cheers
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
drives Bolens is the name of the tractors I used to service. Originally they were made by FMC co. sold out in 1986/87 to Troybilt. I serviced them until MTD bought the brand.
The engine runs according to the man I bought it from. I have to check it out and rebuild the governor if that can be done or find one if not. That will be the most difficult I believe. It also has an electric fuel pump replacement. I have to find out why. I would like to replace the original pump but the elect. pump may be needed to supply some needed demand for the governor I don't know about? Everything needs to be set up for remote control (mechanical) as it will be on the other side of the mill. I also want to be able to monitor the instruments (which I will have to add or replace) from where I stand. All this and a way of raising and lowering the whole unit in order to adjust for balance and alignment. The transmission currently uses a screwdriver to engage and disengage the clutch. These are just the things I have observed with a walk by.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
I will be posting one picture a day of the power plant for the mill to show some of the things that will need to be done.
I formed and poured another pad yesterday on my cottage apron. Will have some pictures after it cures for a few days under a tarp.
More grass cutting today so Ginny can get to the hen house.
I formed and poured another pad yesterday on my cottage apron. Will have some pictures after it cures for a few days under a tarp.
More grass cutting today so Ginny can get to the hen house.
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
I'll wager the electric fuel pump is just the lazy man's way to avoid replacing the fuel pump, and they're generally cheaper, too. I like them because on a seldom used engine you can turn it on and listen to the fuel pump pump up and stop, meaning you have gas to the carburetor and it's ready to start. If the fuel had drained back they won't quit pumping so you know it's an issue.
Looking forward to your remote controls and your remote dashboard. More fun things. How about an old Bolens dash to house the gauges? I assume you'll get a switched oil pressure gauge to kill the engine should you lose oil pressure. Not necessary but it would be cool to know while you're busy sawing logs you don't have to worry about a broken oil line pumping all your oil out on the ground. Then with a high temperature kill switch you're set. But steam blowing out the radiator cap is pretty noticeable.
Looking forward to your remote controls and your remote dashboard. More fun things. How about an old Bolens dash to house the gauges? I assume you'll get a switched oil pressure gauge to kill the engine should you lose oil pressure. Not necessary but it would be cool to know while you're busy sawing logs you don't have to worry about a broken oil line pumping all your oil out on the ground. Then with a high temperature kill switch you're set. But steam blowing out the radiator cap is pretty noticeable.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: are you putting a tarp on your new cement pad to keep the rain from pitting it or is there another reason?
best of luck on the engine and it sounds like you know what you are doing so hopefully you won't run into needing a part that is unobtanium. that said I bet HANDY ANDY could make it for you.
have a great day!
best of luck on the engine and it sounds like you know what you are doing so hopefully you won't run into needing a part that is unobtanium. that said I bet HANDY ANDY could make it for you.
have a great day!
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Thought it might have something to do with the governor or as you said just to cheap to buy a fuel pump. It's kind of redundant as I see it as the gas tank is above the carburetor but I like to have things working if they are in the system; my bow to the engineers who designed it. Have to check out the switched oil pressure gage. Biggest thing is learning about the gov. and getting it right. Remote mechanical throttle should be an interesting build with the engine so far away; may need your expertise with that! The drive shaft sits 25 inches above the ground and is four feet long. I am debating weather or not to shorten it but am leaning toward striping it or putting a cage around it. I don't want to get my tie caught up in it or grease all over my Fedora!
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bolensboneyard
Well-known member
drives the tarp is to protect from rain in the first few hours but mostly to allow the mix to cure slowly and give it more strength. I will probably keep it covered for a full seven days to get the max. out of it.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Pads are attached with #12 screws 2 inches long. It took my ratchet driver to drive them even with holes drilled.
Even though I love vintage tools, I also appreciate technology. Some things are much easier with it. I think back in the day before impacts we all spent lots of time just screwing around.
Even though I love vintage tools, I also appreciate technology. Some things are much easier with it. I think back in the day before impacts we all spent lots of time just screwing around.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Pads are attached with #12 screws 2 inches long. It took my ratchet driver to drive them even with holes drilled.
Even though I love vintage tools, I also appreciate technology. Some things are much easier with it. I think back in the day before impacts we all spent lots of time just screwing around.
Sure saves wear and tear on the hands and wrists Jim. However now, we are just all screwed up???
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
I was going to suggest that design.
Mine look like that but are made of a single 2x6 with no feet. Bottles stay put in the back of a pickup with no other tie down.
A long driveshaft is good for the driveline life. but guards are good too to keep errant lumber off it.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
I was going to suggest that design.
Mine look like that but are made of a single 2x6 with no feet. Bottles stay put in the back of a pickup with no other tie down.
A long driveshaft is good for the driveline life. but guards are good too to keep errant lumber off it.
I was going to use 3 inch thick oak as I still have some small pieces but on second thought I saw it as a waste of nice thick wood. I put the feet on just to stabilize the one inch. I will run them facing or opposing each other so any rocking will be countered. Should be a lot better than letting them roll around sounding like bells.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Had some fun yesterday. Went out to check for something and got side tracked trying to determine who made the governor on the power plant and what carb. was on it. Ended up spending all day on the computer.
First picture is part of the governor assy. Most of the people I spoke with said there was no diaphragm in the system. I'm just learning about this one but it sure looks like a dia. Second pic. is the carb.
The governor is a Pierce, which the name was rubbed off of had to so some detective work on this one. Turns out there is a replacement if needed for $995 or a rebuild for $495 as some parts would have to be made. I will check it out today. If oil is in it they tell me chances are all is well. No chance of me paying these prices.
The carb is a Carter made for Motorcraft but I am not sure which one yet.
It took me an hour and one half to get the cotter pins out of the lift eye. They were up under the hood, which cannot be removed without the eye gone, and the former owner drove them in with a hammer.
First picture is part of the governor assy. Most of the people I spoke with said there was no diaphragm in the system. I'm just learning about this one but it sure looks like a dia. Second pic. is the carb.
The governor is a Pierce, which the name was rubbed off of had to so some detective work on this one. Turns out there is a replacement if needed for $995 or a rebuild for $495 as some parts would have to be made. I will check it out today. If oil is in it they tell me chances are all is well. No chance of me paying these prices.
The carb is a Carter made for Motorcraft but I am not sure which one yet.
It took me an hour and one half to get the cotter pins out of the lift eye. They were up under the hood, which cannot be removed without the eye gone, and the former owner drove them in with a hammer.
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Patience is sure going to pay off for this work.
Worst come to worse you can build a dandy governor from an add-on cruise control, you know.
Worst come to worse you can build a dandy governor from an add-on cruise control, you know.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Patience is the word. I have looked into the governor and found some oil in the reservoir. Good news! I filled it up, took quite a bit, and cleaned it. Two hours of investigation revealed no play in any direction. Spins freely with no noise. No leaks, not even a drop, from any shaft/seal/etc. I give it a go.
The diaphragm I noted is vacuum and has an electrically controlled valve attached to it with an on off switch? It may be some type of override for start-up purposes. I should learn a lot on this ride; including adjustment and starting procedures.
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Looking good!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: to get the cotter pins out was it a steady 90 minutes of prying and removing them or did you spend a lot of time thinking about it and have an AHA moment and figure a good way to pull or push them out?
happy to hear you got them out so you could remove the carb cause i'm guessing all old carbs could use a cleaning especially the ones sitting outside.
I bet you'll have this old engine purring like a kitten soon and if you need any new parts I think I heard a guy in Oklahoma likes to make some out of old pop cans if you send him a box of cans.
cheers and good luck!!
happy to hear you got them out so you could remove the carb cause i'm guessing all old carbs could use a cleaning especially the ones sitting outside.
I bet you'll have this old engine purring like a kitten soon and if you need any new parts I think I heard a guy in Oklahoma likes to make some out of old pop cans if you send him a box of cans.
cheers and good luck!!
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Bobby one never stops learning
Its good to hear that the governor is still a workable proposition.
Its good to hear that the governor is still a workable proposition.
Sweet Old Bill
Well-known member
1/2 Cup said: "Its good to hear that the governor is still a workable proposition."
I say: You do not live in my state!! just 1/2 kidding!
I say: You do not live in my state!! just 1/2 kidding!
Bloodhound1958
Member
Looks fantastic!
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
drives no AHA moment just standing on my head trying to work with everything I knew about removing pins. Problem was pulling/pushing/pounding/twisting at an angle that was working against me as much as for me with one hand while using the other to keep the lift eye up in the air. If I let it drop down any force I could provide would only be absorbed by its movement in the opposite direction. It was like working on the kitchen table under a rag as opposed to in a vise with plenty of light.
Andy thanks!
Steve
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Bill that's an understatement as we are all 1/2 in the bag! Sorry Steve.
Thanks for stopping by!
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Looks fantastic!
Thanks Bloodhound! Thanks for stopping by!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: that's sort of what i figured and good for you for sticking with it and overcoming that cotter pin battle. when you put it back together is there maybe a different plan to maybe make the next removal somewhat easier?
keep up the good work and i'll sit in my chair and just watch in amazement as you do if you have time to post up more pictures and walk us through your adventure.
cheers
keep up the good work and i'll sit in my chair and just watch in amazement as you do if you have time to post up more pictures and walk us through your adventure.
cheers
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
drives definitely a better plan perhaps some elastic stop nuts or drill out the holes if the eye is not high yield! Hope all is well up in the Northwest?
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Beautiful picture! It's great to recognize the beauty as you hurry by.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: if you can improve on the mounting and avoid using another cotter pin your next removal might be doable and even make you smile.
great picture and happy the grim reaper and his tool didn't chop those wildflowers down. i'm still grinning over the thought of you out near the street with that huge tool cutting the high grass in your ditch.
all good here in the PNW, but the rains and colder weather have come again for the winter. we don't usually get too cold or too much snow, but about 6 months of rain is what we are in for so we can have beautiful summers.
take care!!
great picture and happy the grim reaper and his tool didn't chop those wildflowers down. i'm still grinning over the thought of you out near the street with that huge tool cutting the high grass in your ditch.
all good here in the PNW, but the rains and colder weather have come again for the winter. we don't usually get too cold or too much snow, but about 6 months of rain is what we are in for so we can have beautiful summers.
take care!!
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Bobby the picture is lovely.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Ginny says thanks to all for the compliments on her photography.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Carburetor on the power plant is a Carter ClYSA I have a kit on order for it. Yesterday I managed to level the unit, drain the gas after it soaked for a few days in Seafoam, removed the diaphragm assy. for the governor, hooked up a battery and turned it engine over, blasted and painted same and cleaned up some of the contacts.
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Carb looks good to go, just squirt some gas in the throat and see if it will start.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
Got a start on the cleanup still waiting for the kit, It had to come from CA. Wind here is pretty strong already knocked out the computer once. I have a few things on order that should be in this morning if I can get there. Spent yesterday digging out dirt and grease from between the log and the valve cover. I need to match up the fuel pump and get a cover gasket so I can remove and clean/paint the cover. All this rain and storm is keeping things on hold. They're telling me at the parts counter that no fuel pump is shown for a 71 Maverick; only every other 200 cu. inch engine from 65 to 88 and all different types! You're the engineer, please tell me how that is possible?
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oldironfarmer
Well-known member
I think I see the problem with the carburetor. The air cleaner stud bracket is misplaced by 180 degrees. And the other bolt is loose...
You do remember the old advertising slogan "Ford has a better idea!". Their engineers took that to heart and had a better idea every model year, sometimes twice in a year, to the point if you don't have a VIN you can't find the part. So then, likely as in your case, one odd year (like the vacuum advance in a 1954 Chevy) is the first to disappear from the replacement parts supply.
Often the adjacent year part will fit, just minor differences like connection size and orientation. The 54 Chevy vacuum advance (the only Ford style part I know of on a Chevrolet) was because they went from front motor mount to side motor mount in 54 and the motor mount interfered with the old vacuum advance style and required an odd shaped bracket. That odd shape being more expensive they did the Ford trick and had yet another better idea for 1955. I was driving a 54 Chevy in the 70's when the part disappeared so I had to alter some earlier ones to fit. It's not so easy on newer cars, like your sawmill.
I truly hoe you weather the storm without injury or damage.
And the other bolt is loose...You do remember the old advertising slogan "Ford has a better idea!". Their engineers took that to heart and had a better idea every model year, sometimes twice in a year, to the point if you don't have a VIN you can't find the part. So then, likely as in your case, one odd year (like the vacuum advance in a 1954 Chevy) is the first to disappear from the replacement parts supply.
Often the adjacent year part will fit, just minor differences like connection size and orientation. The 54 Chevy vacuum advance (the only Ford style part I know of on a Chevrolet) was because they went from front motor mount to side motor mount in 54 and the motor mount interfered with the old vacuum advance style and required an odd shaped bracket. That odd shape being more expensive they did the Ford trick and had yet another better idea for 1955. I was driving a 54 Chevy in the 70's when the part disappeared so I had to alter some earlier ones to fit. It's not so easy on newer cars, like your sawmill.
I truly hoe you weather the storm without injury or damage.
OP
bolensboneyard
Well-known member
I think I see the problem with the carburetor. The air cleaner stud bracket is misplaced by 180 degrees.
You do remember the old advertising slogan "Ford has a better idea!". Their engineers took that to heart and had a better idea every model year, sometimes twice in a year, to the point if you don't have a VIN you can't find the part. So then, likely as in your case, one odd year (like the vacuum advance in a 1954 Chevy) is the first to disappear from the replacement parts supply.
Often the adjacent year part will fit, just minor differences like connection size and orientation. The 54 Chevy vacuum advance (the only Ford style part I know of on a Chevrolet) was because they went from front motor mount to side motor mount in 54 and the motor mount interfered with the old vacuum advance style and required an odd shaped bracket. That odd shape being more expensive they did the Ford trick and had yet another better idea for 1955. I was driving a 54 Chevy in the 70's when the part disappeared so I had to alter some earlier ones to fit. It's not so easy on newer cars, like your sawmill.
I truly hoe you weather the storm without injury or damage.
I picked the one I ordered up from the parts store yesterday. It should be OK as it is for another 200 cu in six and this is not in a car. I will have to use a rubber hose to the carb. but that was probably what was there anyway. Unfortunately, I never got the chance to try it. See next post for why.