Modified metal chop saws! More ideas

[thieltech]

Lets see your chop saws and modifications you have made to make them
more accurate and usefull.
Heres my 2003 milwaukee with cast iron base.
i made a heavy stand with out out riggers to hold metal straight.
also modified clamps with quick release handles. a 0 return stop on back stop so can get sqaure cuts after a miter cut.
also added set screws under main arm shaft so i could square blade to table.
added leveling feet to base so i could keep it from rocking on uneven floor.

If u take nice easy cuts there almost perfectly square now.

 

[Elginz]

I like it! been looking for something make better cuts, but maybe I will just follow your lead.

 

[thieltech]

definitly go ahead . would like to see your creation !

finding a saw with the cast iron base now days may prove difficult .
most are china stamped sheet metal.

getting the out riggers level with base is about the toughest part . might be better bolting them and slotting holes.

 

[devoncoolman]

My rigid chop saw has a cast iron base. Whole reason i picked it over the dewalt.

 

[thieltech]

My rigid chop saw has a cast iron base. Whole reason i picked it over the dewalt.

post some pics if u can

 

[2oolhound]

Nice work and GREAT PHOTOS! Thanks!

 

[ADSR]

nice mod! I might try this with my milwaukee dry cut.

 

[McLean]

Very nice! I didn't know they made them with cast bases like that. (I'll have to keep my eye open on CL now...)

Where did you source those quick release handles? Any improvements for squaring the jaws quickly?

 

[gearhead1]

Yes, I really like that. Love the Garage Journal for ideas!

 

[thieltech]

theres a adjustable stop on the edge of the jaw to sqaure quickly.
the center of back jaw is pinned.

handles are from mcmaster

 

[Ign]

So I saw an all-metal old school Makita miter saw at the flea market. 14". Yes 14". It had a wood cutting blade on it and no work clamp per se, just a fence like a miter saw.

I got to thinking it should be able to take a 14" abrasive blade and being all-metal seems it would stand up to metal work??

I'd have to work out work holding but that's not impossible. Anyone ever seen one of these? I should have snapped a pic.

They also had the same thing in a handheld "demo" saw but it had a shoe like a wood-cutting circular. 14" also. Maybe a beam saw?

 

[tarbellb]

Excellent mods, I have issues with getting my 0 and 45 degree set quickly.

I was thinking about doing a precision pin locator for the two, do you think the adjustable stop is necessary? I suppose after I bang a few pieces of heavy stock the pin locators will start to get loose.

Again, thanks for the post. These are great mods!

 

[tarbellb]

Also, with all that work to a abrasive you should think about putting a motor speed control on it and using a carbide tipped blade! Hate to say it, but you dont know what your missing if you havent used one before.*

* if you have and your still using a abrasive blade, well, to each his own:]

 

[thieltech]

the only reason i went with adjustable is because some always seems
to get out of wack , so its nice being able to reset it.

ive never used a carbide blade other then using a dewalt wood chop saw to cut aluminum
and that cut nice and straight .
i here people talk about them alot , but still havnt tried one.

 

[Ign]

Excellent mods, I have issues with getting my 0 and 45 degree set quickly.

I was thinking about doing a precision pin locator for the two, do you think the adjustable stop is necessary? I suppose after I bang a few pieces of heavy stock the pin locators will start to get loose.

Again, thanks for the post. These are great mods!

I've thought of taper pin locators for my 7x12 also but my concern is that unless you drill that hole dead center it'll forever be off. I like the adjustable idea far more, although the factory holes in the fences of these Milwaukee saws as pictured have a ton of slop, meaning it'll wobble around the bolts and throw off your angle considerably. If'n it were me I'd find a way to close up the holes so they fit the bolts mo betta, either thru weld and re-drill or just a bushing.

For those who don't want to support Mc-we don't know what customer service means-Master, adjustable handles at Enco:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=735&PMITEM=990-3248

 

[richeyc2000]

Nice job. Just picked up a chop saw and working on the table next. Gonna borrow some ideas.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Ign]

also added set screws under main arm shaft so i could square blade to table.

Interested in this? I'm presuming these are not visible as they're under the pivot shaft under the "bearing caps?"

 

[PharaohXJ]

Love it, I would love to have some rollers on that too & maybe some clamps on both sides

 

[thieltech]

I've thought of taper pin locators for my 7x12 also but my concern is that unless you drill that hole dead center it'll forever be off. I like the adjustable idea far more, although the factory holes in the fences of these Milwaukee saws as pictured have a ton of slop, meaning it'll wobble around the bolts and throw off your angle considerably. If'n it were me I'd find a way to close up the holes so they fit the bolts mo betta, either thru weld and re-drill or just a bushing.

For those who don't want to support Mc-we don't know what customer service means-Master, adjustable handles at Enco:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=735&PMITEM=990-3248

The back stop has a bushing in the center for it to pivot on just like you mentioned . other wise the zero stop would be pointless

 

[thieltech]

Interested in this? I'm presuming these are not visible as they're under the pivot shaft under the "bearing caps?"

yes exactly . use fine thread 1/4-20 set scews. drill tap the main shaft straight through . once you lock the shaft down it will lock the set screw in place as well . could use blue lock tight to.

 

[thieltech]

also notice the threaded rod with red ball . this keeps the clamp from piviting when cutting short pieces . its adjustable for different size stock.

i debated on if i should devise a way to lock the pivit or use the threaded rod.
i may still setup a lock for the front clamp pivit

 

[rottdogsparky]

Any issues with marking up the wall behind your saw? Like the simplicity

 

[thieltech]

Any issues with marking up the wall behind your saw? Like the simplicity

yes some what , but there is a spark guard underneith and far back.

think ill add a 10 x10" square guard to the back on the stand . now that u mention it

More work lol