Modify exterior front door?

[MikeC55]

I’m having an addition put on the house which involves making the ‘new’ basement into a 2 car garage. The original house basement is only 6’8” floor to ceiling, while the new basement garage has a lower floor, so ceiling is 8’6”. A doorway from new garage into existing basement has been opened in the block wall and circumstances dictate that a slightly shorter door is needed. Inspector says use of an exterior wood door is ok here, but it seems non-fancy wood exterior doors are very thin on the ground. It’s hard to find anything for less than $1,000 because wood = fancy. Has anyone successfully taken an inch or so off the bottom of a fiberglass or metal skin exterior door? If so, any tips?

 

[Hank11]

Some manufacturers supply info about how much you can cut their doors. Look for that. I suspect the metal and fiberglass do not. Otherwise, lowes and hd have doors starting around $275.00

 

[The Cobbler]

done quite a few times. what you will need is a U shaped sweep to wrap around each door skin . I've even cut the foam out & glued a pc of wood in the bottom.

 

[LXCam]

Those doors are foam filled. You could cut it and use a U shaped sweep that you could screw to both side of the skin. If you decide to do this I'd suggest bedding the bottom and sides in a good silicon to keep as much moisture away as possible.

 

[MikeC55]

I’m getting no 36” wide wood doors at HD or Lowe’s available in that price range (out of stock everywhere). Since I’m only needing to take off an inch or so, I don’t expect to loose the wood plug in bottom. I’m not too concerned about moisture since it will never see rain (it’s well inside the garage and 2 steps up from garage floor). I did find a few YT videos; doesn’t seem too difficult. Thanks, guys.

 

[Jeff C]

Clamp a straight edge on the door and run your circular saw across. Worst case if the bottom block falls out you can gorilla glue it back in. Just remember the fiberglass is hard on saw blades so don’t use some high dollar exotic.

 

[The Cobbler]

Since I’m only needing to take off an inch or so, I don’t expect to loose the wood plug in bottom.

you might be surprised how much ( or little) wood is in there.

 

[MikeC55]

I’ve got a thickness planer, so even if I have to insert a new wood plug, I can get the thickness just right.

 

[larry_g]

Do you have a builders salvage yard available? Might be worth a look.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[loganb]

As mentioned it can be done, depending on door construction you will probably stay in the wood bottom rail if only taking an inch off. For an interior only I wouldn't worry much. If you want something with more heft see if you can find a Restore or similar architectural salvage place to find a donor solid core slab

One thing to note is that door/wall between attached garage to house is often a 20 minute fire rated requirement. If an inspector gets picky I have seen them require stamps/certs on these doors so verify what/if any fire rating is required here. Often all that is required is decent door gasketing and self closing hinges.

 

[Hank11]

Here is a door only:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-36-in-x-80-in-Wood-Universal-Reversible-Unfinished-Slab/5001948681

If you let them, they will show you the expensive ones. Select “price low to high“

If you’re shortening the door by only an inch, take half off the top and half off the bottom. Make jams to suit the hole you have.

 

[CraigStu]

I don't know for sure if it is but..if Hank11's link is the one I looked at a few months ago, it is a really nice heavy door.

 

[MikeC55]

I was able to cut the steel easily with a carbide tip blade. Nice clean cut. I did cut just beyond the end of the wood (which is about 1.25” thick) and while bending the metal edges over is a bit fancier, I’m just going to remove the styrofoam necessary and re-glue the wood plug in there, add a little silicone sealer over the joints and call it good.

 

[The Cobbler]

nice. thanks for the update