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Modifying garage ceiling.

cmb816

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
11
I have a 16x20 detached garage. 2x4 walls and 2x6 roof joists and ceiling joists, all 24oc. No trusses, just stick built. I have a loft "floor" in the ceiling where we keep bulky, but not heavy items (car luggage box, beach chairs, and similar) and am going to rewire and insulate the garage while I'm working from home.

I planned to insulate the ceiling with r19 as that is what will fit between the storage decking and drywall. In order to not loose the storage area I wanted to put in a door to make access easier. I planned to cut part of one ceiling joist to make an access door and sister additional 2x6 onto the joists in either side to maintain structural strength.

Would the sistered boards need to be the full 16', or can it be two 8' boards?
 
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cmb816

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Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
11
Thinking 3x6 or 4x6 for ease of getting the thule box up, it's only about 42" from top of rafter to peak of the roof . Have to refine the storage a bit as currently its accessible along the whole 16' length of the decking, and adding insulation/drywall reduces the accessability considerably.
 
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CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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4,034
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Don't cut the truss. Just make your opening between trusses for about 22.5 width. It can then be any length you want. If possible avoid the metal joiner plates in the truss. If you can't avoid, smooth them over w/ some drywall compound. Those things will snag your shirt like crazy.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
1,925
Location
Johns Creek, GA
Thanks that helps. Would you use a joist hanger on the double header or just nail it?


I always take the approach as if I were selling- is doing something one way versus another going to be one of those stupid “red flags” from a private inspector.

To that end- yes, use joist hangers! There will never be any doubt about how it was done, or it’s integrity.
 
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