Modular vs Stick built construction

[Doug1]

I am going to be building a vacation home on a few acres of land near the beach. What I am interested in doing is essentially getting two floors with no load bearing walls on the interior so that if I want to remodel the place in 10 years, it will be simple to do.

I'm trying to determine if I should have it stick built or use a modular company for the shell. I know absolutely zero about modular construction. The house will be elevated, which would make changing plumbing on the first floor easy enough down the road and since I will have a lot of family and guest using it when we are not there, I'd like to do something with a well built exterior and just standard finished on the inside capable of holding up to a beach house traffic. For example, one thing I have thought about is using tile that looks like wood for the floors. Cheaper than hardwood and carpet is not an option due to people tracking in sand and dirt.

I've done a lot of remodeling over the years and other work on houses years back, from helping wire new houses to plumbing so I know the general mechanics of construction but have never had anything built from scratch.

I'm hoping to get by for $150 sq ft but I am not sure that is realistic. If I can, then I'll feel like I actually accomplished my goal.

I don't want to do the work myself on this but am looking for the best way to get the most for my money on the type of construction I want done. Any suggestions? I've spoken to a couple of builders to get ideas of the cost. Several have suggested I just get plans off the internet and have an engineer modify it and stamp it.

I have to get the building done for roughly $300K so it won't be fancy. I'm considering leaving a second floor unfinished for now and if I decide to use it as a rental property later, I might finish that to support more bedrooms.

Anyone with experience in a construction loan build would be appreciated. I also need to build a deep water dock in this as well but have additional money set aside for that.

 

[jackson1701]

I have always stick built and am a huge fan of this method. My old neighbor bought a modular home 20 years ago. I didn't know what to think but after some reviews and talking with the builder, I became a fan. Most modular home/buildings are built indoors. This means no weather to deteriorate the wood if it rains, snows. They are built (mostly) on solid level surfaces too. They are designed to be moved and picked up by a crane with minimal movement. Once I saw this, I became a big fan. A home that can be lifted and not crumble must be worth it's weight in gold. Just my two cents...

 

[jetnow1]

Since they have to be engineered and built to go down the highway and be lifted and set
by crane the are usually stronger than stick built, but I have never seen one with an open
plan as that would be difficult to support on the way from plant to site. 150 per square ft
for 2000 sq ft would be tight in most beach areas with the tighter building codes but a lot
depends on choices made. Make sure you talk to the building officials for the build area
for specific requirements for that area.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If I'm not mistaken most (all?) modular homes are stick built.
Modular may have a larger affect on your desire of no load bearing walls vs. whatever size rooms you want.

 

[75gmck25]

I don't know if they have a modular design with a completely open floor plan, but modular homes are definitely evolving. When they built new apartments in ND for the oil boom man-camps I saw them bringing in several two story modular homes. The upper and lower parts sections fit together when they set the upper story in place. I think they were also double wide, so there were actually four modular sections that fit together.

Bruce

 

[Dustball]

I'm hoping to get by for $150 sq ft but I am not sure that is realistic. If I can, then I'll feel like I actually accomplished my goal.

I had a quote from a reputable modular home builder about ten years ago for a two story 22x38 house and detached 24x24 garage. Altogether, it came at around $98/SF fully installed with a full basement/poured foundation. The only things not included in the quote was the driveway/landscaping/tree removal/appliances. The house by itself right out of the factory was $57/SF.

 

[jake00]

A buddy works for a custom home builder (4-10 million dollar houses). They get all the walls built like a modular,

Then one day a few semi trucks show up with all the wall pieces, crane goes to work and a day later the house exists

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Check with your insurance company just to make sure they are not scared to cover it with out huge premiums.

Other then that as others have said the things are picked up and moved down the high way with out damage.

Heck we had two erected near us in VA 10 or so years back. They brought in the first section for the second home to be put up buy mistake. They just set it down out in the back yard on a rough and pretty steep slope. I went in after they set it in place a month or so later. Besides some water damage because they started to take off the shrink wrap before noticing the mistake, It wasn't hurt at all, no cracked dry wall, cabinets in the kitchen were straight not a crooked door nothing.

The only thing I'd check and double check is how they join the parts together on site.

So yeah I'd have little worries purchasing one.

 

[James-W]

I think there is a lot to be said for a modular home and I think if you get one you will be happy with it. But I am old fashioned and I prefer a stick built home.

 

[Streetbu]

Either way you can't go wrong if you find a decent builder... you won't find a two story that is completely open though. Too much weight to not have a supporting wall downstairs without some major engineering and stronger materials... if there is a view of the water, just plan on two rooms facing the water, one being a bedroom, other the living room. Should cover the bases.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

A two story beach house on pilings with a completely convertible/flex floor plan. Sure; nothing to it. It's just a matter of dimensions and clear spans.

And no, you won't have that with a modular plan.

 

[James-W]

Either way you can't go wrong if you find a decent builder... you won't find a two story that is completely open though. Too much weight to not have a supporting wall downstairs without some major engineering and stronger materials... if there is a view of the water, just plan on two rooms facing the water, one being a bedroom, other the living room. Should cover the bases.

I agree, with a second floor the weight will be substantial and an inside supporting wall will be necessary unless the beach house is VERY small.

 

[Firebrick43]

We have a modular. Lived in it 13 years and it's 15 years old. Pluses, it's vey well built structurally and well insulated. Most have 2x6 walls. Negative include many screw pops 6' up. Another issue was they messed some flashing detail up with a door and it leaked. Seen much worse in stick houses, even custom high end ones. Builders are all over the map for quality, where the factories are much more consistent.

 

[glentre]

We have a house with a pool on a river and it is well used by hoards of family and guests, including dogs. Last weekend had 8 adults, 7 kids and 4 dogs in a 4 bedroom house. On holidays, we usually pack in all 18 of our family plus three dogs. Best thing we did was put ceramic tile in the non-bedroom areas and kitchen and indestructible laminate floors in the great room. Dogs can't scratch the floors, wet bathing suits are no problem and sand vacuums up easily. Design the interior with furnishings that are suitable for beach activities so you don't get all uptight about messes. Then relax!!!!

Glen

 

[Falcon67]

^^ What he said ^^. I wasn't crazy about the DIY previous owner non-matching tile in the house we bought, but with a pool and dogs I'll never have carpet in the main areas again. Spill some Kool-Aid? Here, let me wipe that up. House we bought new in 1984, wasn't there two weeks before Fruit Juicy Red marked the floor covering in the living room.

 

[bcoke]

Doug , what you want [completely open floorpan] is probably not possible with a modular building.......stick built yes, BUT you must look at PANELIZED construction [Harvest Homes is one I used] ........I got a 26x48 first floor and a 28x48 second fully clear span [except the stairs]..........modular is for all purposes boxes ,made indoors with jigs [good quality] an d stcked limited by over the road dimensions.......panelized construction are done indoors in a jig and made in flat wall sections [doors and windows included] the floor sections for my second floor [first floor was on a slab] were 8 feet wide by 26 feet long and a total of 6 to be the second floor"deck"..........the 48 foot walls came in two sections and the 26 and 28 footers in one section.........on site at 7am three trailers [interior walls second floor framed in each section]...... 3 pm same day all walls up second floor walls on the "deck".......gable ends in position and roof trusses placed on upper walls........day two slows down to hand work [set the trusses and sheath the roof , house wrap and roof shingles also done by end of day three! Now closed in to the weather it slows down to regular construction i.e.: plumbing, electrical, insulation , sheetrock etc.......Great way to go .......all the engineering done by the panelized company [joists, trusses etc based on desigh needs]........fast simple and cost effective, my package included erection of "shell" roof, all moulding and interior doors and insulation [their cost much better than big boxes]and I finished out the inside to my wants........check it out....... Bobbycoke

 

[piker28]

I have a modular beach home. Made that decision when I saw how quickly it can be put together and that was my main goal. I do not have any information on the non load bearing walls. This home has survived multiple hurricanes without a scratch.

 

[bcoke]

Doug I do not mean structial panel construction [layed walls sheathing ,foam insulation interior sheathing ] like an oreo cookie.....Mine was framed [2x6] in a jig sections as needed doors and windows as needed than loaded on a trailed for delivery......here is a site for Harvest Homes for reference to this type construction.....
http://www.harvesthomes.com/ good luck bobbycoke

 

[mikegt4]

Have you considered SIP (structural insulated panel) construction. It is a good compromise (building time wise) between stick and modular, the shell can be up in less than a week. An added bonus of excellent insulation and structural integrity.

I built my house with SIP 20 years ago, designed and built it my self. I have a 21ft. open span front to back on both stories. I used floor trusses but other methods such as I joists are also popular and will enable long spans. I could have spaced them 24" OC but went to 19.2" OC (5 per 8') for additional floor stiffness. The floors are rock solid. I also used SIP panels to cap the 2nd. floor essentially making a big cube then put my roof trusses on top of that. I put down a perimeter 2x4 laid flat to rest the trusse ends on so that the trusses only rested on the same points as they would if on stick walls. The result was a incredibly strong and quiet home that is very thermally efficient.
http://www.sips.org/about/what-are-sips/

 

[a52-830]

i have built buildings both ways, stick on site, and "factory walls" (as opposed to "modular building", where they build a bunch of boxes, and fit them together onsite, like a collection of shoe boxes or something).

honestly, i did not notice a difference in cost, quality, or time. i was assured that the factory walls were going to be better built, since they were not laid out on irregular ground and tipped up, but i couldn't see the difference.

when they stick build, a carpenter lays out the wall, someone runs a chop saw, and someone calls for lumber and nails it in place.

when you do the factory thing, a large flatbed (or two) arrives with all these "panels", which are stacked in "shipping order", largest on the bottom, etc. so, it all needs to be unloaded, and sorted out. if you are careful, you put pieces in some kind of order (near where they are going to be installed, or numeric order). then, as you go to put them in place, two or three laborers need to find the piece, bring it over, (swap the ends around, because some law of nature requires it to arrive backwards) and hold it in place while some guy nail-guns it in place. of course, they do the outside first, and sometimes have problems getting the inside walls inside the house (it helps to have done it a few times before).

factory might save a day, but it might not. if you are going factory, you need to have complete, and correct, drawings. if you are going stick built, a lot of hand waving can occur (which can be good or bad, depending . . . . ).

i dont recall the factory doing any sheathing, so the locals still needed to cut plywood and tyvec and such.

it does seem that there is always something done wrong in the factory set. we get an extra wall (the person who did the callouts got interrupted and did the same wall twice?) or there is something else wrong, which was likely the fault of the drawing not being clear, and since they were not putting it together, they didnt notice.

the extra day you save quickly gets lost waiting for a craftsman (plumbing, electric, etc) or an inspection (sorry, the inspector only works on mondays, you need to wait until next week).

last time i had a choice, i went factory, because it was supposed to be 2000$ cheaper. to this day i doubt it really was.

 

[Doug1]

A two story beach house on pilings with a completely convertible/flex floor plan. Sure; nothing to it. It's just a matter of dimensions and clear spans.

And no, you won't have that with a modular plan.

So I'll scrap the modular plan. Would I need steel beam construction? I'd like to do something in the 2400 sq ft. range.

 

[Doug1]

Doug , what you want [completely open floorpan] is probably not possible with a modular building.......stick built yes, BUT you must look at PANELIZED construction [Harvest Homes is one I used] ........I got a 26x48 first floor and a 28x48 second fully clear span [except the stairs]..........modular is for all purposes boxes ,made indoors with jigs [good quality] an d stcked limited by over the road dimensions.......panelized construction are done indoors in a jig and made in flat wall sections [doors and windows included] the floor sections for my second floor [first floor was on a slab] were 8 feet wide by 26 feet long and a total of 6 to be the second floor"deck"..........the 48 foot walls came in two sections and the 26 and 28 footers in one section.........on site at 7am three trailers [interior walls second floor framed in each section]...... 3 pm same day all walls up second floor walls on the "deck".......gable ends in position and roof trusses placed on upper walls........day two slows down to hand work [set the trusses and sheath the roof , house wrap and roof shingles also done by end of day three! Now closed in to the weather it slows down to regular construction i.e.: plumbing, electrical, insulation , sheetrock etc.......Great way to go .......all the engineering done by the panelized company [joists, trusses etc based on desigh needs]........fast simple and cost effective, my package included erection of "shell" roof, all moulding and interior doors and insulation [their cost much better than big boxes]and I finished out the inside to my wants........check it out....... Bobbycoke

Now I need to find one that can do it in Charleston, SC.

 

[Monza Harry]

Modular homes can have a clear span in the basement, so I would think it is possible on the other floors. The basement of my friends mod. home had a " F'n HUGE"* beam down the length. This will require planning in the basement for required head room. Now cost effectiveness that is another matter. Harry
*Edit: I should have posted a "steel I beam" above, and I made an other clarification as well.

 

[billconner]

Modular homes can have a clear span in the basement, so I would think it is possible on the other floors. The basement had a " F'n HUGE" beam down the length. This will require planning in the basement for required head room. Now cost effectiveness that is another matter. Harry

Aren't there columns on that beam line in the basement?

 

[Zeke]

I have often thought of building an open box completely finish floored and then add light gauge steel stud walls as partitions. Want to change the floor plan? Take down the walls and move them to where you want. Utilities from above or below would make it easy. I suspect the kitchen and baths would be more or less permanent with plumbing in the exterior walls where possible.

You'll lose a little drywall each time, but not much more. Or you could over the wall with modular panels like an office.

 

[billconner]

with plumbing in the exterior walls where possible.

You must live where winter temps are not well below zero. Plumbing simply not allowed in exterior walls by code where I've lived.

 

[weadjust]

I am going to be building a vacation home on a few acres of land near the beach.

I would look into building to meet the Fortified building standards for your coastal region. Insurance premiums in the coastal areas are going through the roof. If your home construction meets the Fortified Gold standard your premium will be about 50% less. I have coastal home in AL. The newer Fortified homes the insurance is $4-5K per year vs $8-10k for a dwelling with a $500K replacement cost.

 

[P0234]

OP probably already built his house or gave up. Nice work digging up a thread from 2016!!

 

[35k0]

We built using a 28x64 modular, we put the beam in lengthwise with posts supporting it all the way down the middle, in hindsight, we should have run the beam across the short span, in the middle of the house (red line), it would have freed up a lot of posts and headroom.
We used Wisconsin homes, super solid, well built 2x6 home.

 

[Zeke]

You must live where winter temps are not well below zero. Plumbing simply not allowed in exterior walls by code where I've lived.

Yes, I do and always have. I read that and speaking of that situation, isn't there a practical way to isolate water lines in an exterior wall? IOW, place them in the conditioned space?

 

[Monza Harry]

Aren't there columns on that beam line in the basement?

No Bill, I posted huge beam! From the floor (not ceiling) extending into the basement ~14" - 18" [~24" x 35'(?) I'm guessing] so a F......G HUGE! He spec'd it for clear span, basement ceiling was over 9' almost 10' to be 8' under the beam. Nice space for sure. Thinking about this the living/dining/kitchen on the main floor was clear span as well. I don't remember if the house was 20' or 24' deep by 35-40' wide. Harry

 

[billconner]

Yes, I do and always have. I read that and speaking of that situation, isn't there a practical way to isolate water lines in an exterior wall? IOW, place them in the conditioned space?

Well, if in conditioned space then not in exterior wall, so sure. I did 28-30" counters on standard 24" base cabinets. Before redoing that kitchen just remembered to turn faucet on to a steady drip on cold nights. You might get away with tight to drywall in 2x6 wall, but not allowed here.

I love the cold. Lived where it was -40 flat line for all of January. You don't know what you're missing!

 

[billconner]

No Bill, I posted huge beam! From the floor (not ceiling) extending into the basement ~14" - 18" [~24" x 35'(?) I'm guessing] so a F......G HUGE! He spec'd it for clear span, basement ceiling was over 9' almost 10' to be 8' under the beam. Nice space for sure. Thinking about this the living/dining/kitchen on the main floor was clear span as well. I don't remember if the house was 20' or 24' deep by 35-40' wide. Harry

We live in a modular, 1990s, basically 2 over 2 - all about 14 x 40 - and lolly columns every 8 feet or so in basement. Seems more typical, but of course a beam is possible.

 

[NUTTSGT]

OP probably already built his house or gave up. Nice work digging up a thread from 2016!!

Yes... From a now banned spammer.