Mohawk Lift Install Tips?
- Thread starter avc8130
- Start date
jimindm
Well-known member
If it is a true Mohawk brand lift, I would call the company, to get the name of a representative in your area. The guy that sells them here installs them for about $350. New or used, he has done them all, knows what to look for and what to look out for. Not saying that nobody but him should put them up, but at least you know its right.
pattenp
Well-known member
Make sure your concrete is up to specs and use a new drill bit when boring the holes. An old bit that's not sharp will create a sloppy hole for the anchor bolts. And don't set and torque the anchors with an impact wrench, use a hand torque wrench.
I put my brand new System 1A in Dec 2011, a lot of fun - I'd highly recommend as a do-it-yourself.
Tips? Lets see - my dealer warned me to be careful carrying the lift arms, it is easy to slip your fingers into the arm and then have the inner arm come crashing into them. I was glad to learn that lesson second hand. The lift is heavy, as you know. I carried mine home in my f350 and you could tell it was there. I disbanded mine and lifted the columns out individually with a small loader - you'll find the weight is where the carriage is. My loader is rated 500kg (1100lb), and the main column is everything it wanted to lift. I used the loader to stand the columns up, and I had a friend help with this part of the install. Once the columns are standing they are relatively easy to maneuver where you want them, and they are quite stable just free standing. I rented a hammer drill (and bit) from HD, drill through the baseplate, it is way easier than you might expect.
Shim the columns, the tops should "crowd the line" towards leaning away from each other. The install kit has everything you'll need. You will need atf - the reservoir is shipped full but the cylinders are not. The install kit includes a mating electrical receptacle that is appropriate for a pendant mount - I needed a box mount version that was easy to find on eBay.
My ceiling height was about 2" too low, but with only hydraulic lines between the two posts it was very easy to shorten the lines. (My justification for choosing Mohawk).
Personal choice: should you grease the surface where the arms rotate on the carriages? I think my dealer suggested yes, but I chose not too, thinking grease would become a dirt magnet. They work great.
Suggest you get the optional weight gauge - though ridiculously priced it is American made by Lenz and is very cool. You are in so deep now why stop?
Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with - you're going to love your new lift. The quality is simply outstanding.
Dan
Tips? Lets see - my dealer warned me to be careful carrying the lift arms, it is easy to slip your fingers into the arm and then have the inner arm come crashing into them. I was glad to learn that lesson second hand. The lift is heavy, as you know. I carried mine home in my f350 and you could tell it was there. I disbanded mine and lifted the columns out individually with a small loader - you'll find the weight is where the carriage is. My loader is rated 500kg (1100lb), and the main column is everything it wanted to lift. I used the loader to stand the columns up, and I had a friend help with this part of the install. Once the columns are standing they are relatively easy to maneuver where you want them, and they are quite stable just free standing. I rented a hammer drill (and bit) from HD, drill through the baseplate, it is way easier than you might expect.
Shim the columns, the tops should "crowd the line" towards leaning away from each other. The install kit has everything you'll need. You will need atf - the reservoir is shipped full but the cylinders are not. The install kit includes a mating electrical receptacle that is appropriate for a pendant mount - I needed a box mount version that was easy to find on eBay.
My ceiling height was about 2" too low, but with only hydraulic lines between the two posts it was very easy to shorten the lines. (My justification for choosing Mohawk).
Personal choice: should you grease the surface where the arms rotate on the carriages? I think my dealer suggested yes, but I chose not too, thinking grease would become a dirt magnet. They work great.
Suggest you get the optional weight gauge - though ridiculously priced it is American made by Lenz and is very cool. You are in so deep now why stop?
Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with - you're going to love your new lift. The quality is simply outstanding.
Dan
That's who I bought it from. We have the "Northeast Premium". Installs here start at $500.
ac
Dan,
I got the same tip from the dealer I bought mine from about the arms.
I brought mine home on my trailer, columns already separated to spread the weight on the trailer.
I used my Kubota L45 to get them off the trailer. You are not kidding about the carriage end being the heavy end!
I'm going to have to do some custom work with the hydraulic lines as my ceiling is sloped from ~10' to ~12' where the lift is going. How did you cut/flare/bend the lines?
I've thought about the weight gauge. I chose the lift I had of 3 he had used. It was the newest, being a 2000 build. The other 2 had weight gauges, but were 1994. There was an upgrade to the hydraulic body as well as 6 years younger that made me forgo the weight gauge for now. I'm thinking about just slapping a $15 liquid filled pressure gauge on there. The pressure is directly proportional to the weight.
I plan to use a new bit and a REAL rotary hammer drill to make the holes.
No impact on the anchors, my distributor said 85 ft lbs for the torque.
He said it should take 30-45 seconds to drill each hole to know the concrete is strong enough. Depth is easy enough to verify.
The distributor said the same thing about setting the columns to splay a bit...the manual says to set them perfectly plumb.
ac
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
For $500 pay him and be done with it. He has the tools, shims, swage lock bolts, and experience. I had my used system 1 installed by the local distributor. And it was impressive watching these guys work. No guessing, farting around or nothing. They even had a jig to place the arms relative to each other, an expensive flair tool to flair the stainless lines(because I ran them 17' high), and a huge selection of shims for the column bases, and tops of the rams to level them.
Chris
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Chris,
Not gonna happen. The distributor gave me the shims and Wej-its. I have the tools. The distributor himself said "if you have the ability to work on cars yourself to the point of thinking you need a lift...you can install the lift".
Using the logic you presented, we should all be paying "professionals" to work on the very cars we are putting on these lifts.
$500 is $500.
ac
tonycastec
Well-known member
I installed my used Mohawk 1A alone and without any power lifting. Good exercise of my rusty ,basic combat engineering skills!
I used Titen bolts+epoxy.
The shims are huge ,horseshoe shaped, nylon.
I put a tension brace at the top of each columns to a ceiling girder. I wanted to observe even the slightest movement of the column when lifting my Dodge/Cummins D250. I live on an earthquake fault line so it makes you a little paranoid.
It is very stable.
Just calibrate an inexpensive liquid filled gauge for the weight reading.Be careful to chose a gauge that does not hit the carriage!
Check the Torrington bearings on the mast.I found cheap,new ,Made in USA replacements on EBay.
Don't worry if it is uneven when you first use it.Just call Mohawk and they will tell you what to do. Easy.
The best accessory I bought was the wheel adapters made by Forum member "Rock Thompson" .There are lots of photos and discussion in the archives. His wheel engaging adapters are cheaper than Mohawks and better designed for cars.
Spend lots of time measuring the vehicles you must lift and drawing out the lift arm positions on the floor. The old Mohawk is rather exacting because the arms are just 2 piece,not 3.
Clean everything ,particularly the arms. They should slide with effort but smoothly.If you don't you'll have some painful moments.
Get at least two under-hoist ,tall jack stands so you don't get distracted by any initial anxiety you have about working under 5000+lbs of vehicle.
Learn to use the locks correctly. It gave me great peace of mind.Yes they are a bit clunky but absolutely foolproof and indestructible.
It is truly amazing how much easier many jobs are with a lift!
I used Titen bolts+epoxy.
The shims are huge ,horseshoe shaped, nylon.
I put a tension brace at the top of each columns to a ceiling girder. I wanted to observe even the slightest movement of the column when lifting my Dodge/Cummins D250. I live on an earthquake fault line so it makes you a little paranoid.
It is very stable.
Just calibrate an inexpensive liquid filled gauge for the weight reading.Be careful to chose a gauge that does not hit the carriage!
Check the Torrington bearings on the mast.I found cheap,new ,Made in USA replacements on EBay.
Don't worry if it is uneven when you first use it.Just call Mohawk and they will tell you what to do. Easy.
The best accessory I bought was the wheel adapters made by Forum member "Rock Thompson" .There are lots of photos and discussion in the archives. His wheel engaging adapters are cheaper than Mohawks and better designed for cars.
Spend lots of time measuring the vehicles you must lift and drawing out the lift arm positions on the floor. The old Mohawk is rather exacting because the arms are just 2 piece,not 3.
Clean everything ,particularly the arms. They should slide with effort but smoothly.If you don't you'll have some painful moments.
Get at least two under-hoist ,tall jack stands so you don't get distracted by any initial anxiety you have about working under 5000+lbs of vehicle.
Learn to use the locks correctly. It gave me great peace of mind.Yes they are a bit clunky but absolutely foolproof and indestructible.
It is truly amazing how much easier many jobs are with a lift!
I started laying out my lift and figuring out where to place the posts. I have a Morton building with 8' scissor truss spacing. Inside ceiling height is 10' at the walls and 12' at the center. My lift has to go on 1 side so I thought I was stuck with the low ceiling.
It looks like with some careful placement I should be able to put the posts so I can remove the ceiling skin, move a light and put the quad cab of my truck up between 2 trusses! There is ~1' of "wiggle room" so I need to be pretty precise with my columns to get maximum use.
ac
It looks like with some careful placement I should be able to put the posts so I can remove the ceiling skin, move a light and put the quad cab of my truck up between 2 trusses! There is ~1' of "wiggle room" so I need to be pretty precise with my columns to get maximum use.
ac
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I used to do everything myself, but I've reached the point in my life where my time is worth more to me so I started doing an aggravation vs cost analysis in my head whenever i do something. After installing a lift for a friend a few years ago I would gladly pay a Pro $500 to do the job.
I enjoy working on my vehicles so I will literally do anything to them. If I didn't they would go to the shop.
If you have the time and desire to put it up yourself have at it.
Pics of the install process would be nice!!
Chris
I need to snap some pics.
I was just out in the garage working on the layout a bit more. Unfortunately the BEST location for the posts straddles the control joints in the concrete. These aren't "expansion" joints, but the saw slots they cut to control future cracking. My floor is 10+ years old and doesn't have any cracks to date.
I assume I can't put the post over this...right?
ac
I was just out in the garage working on the layout a bit more. Unfortunately the BEST location for the posts straddles the control joints in the concrete. These aren't "expansion" joints, but the saw slots they cut to control future cracking. My floor is 10+ years old and doesn't have any cracks to date.
I assume I can't put the post over this...right?
ac
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I assume I can't put the post over this...right?
ac
According to the Mohawk existing floor specs, no!
http://www.mohawklifts.com/library/manuals/Slab_Require_Recommend_11_07.pdf
"All 2-post lifts require a continuous single slab. Spanning expansion seams or positioning posts on separate slabs is not acceptable"
"DO NOT install any Mohawk lift on expansion seams or on cracked or defective concrete. All 3⁄4 inch diameter anchors must be a minimum of 6 inches away from any expansion seams, control joints or other inconsistencies in the concrete. All 1 inch diameter anchors must be a minimum of 7 1⁄2 inches away from any expansion seams, control joints or other inconsistencies in the concrete. Refer to anchor manufacturer specifications for specific information concerning edge distances and bolt to bolt distance requirements."
Chris
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Chris,
Yeah, I read that, and pretty much knew my answer. I just needed to hear it from at least 1 other person since right where that control joint is located is such a perfect spot for the lift.
With trying to line up perfectly in the ceiling I only have 2 real options for location. The control joints would have been towards the back of the garage and allowed another vehicle to be parked behind a vehicle on the lift.
Instead I will have to place the lift in the middle of the garage lengthwise.
ac