kvom
Well-known member
I got the lift installed yesterday. It's an A7 Mohawk that I found on CL. The first lift was my old Johnson bandsaw so that I could mount a caster on the main foot.
Mohawk lift installed
- Thread starter kvom
- Start date
JohnK007
Well-known member
Good looking lift Kvom! Mohawks are the cream of the crop. Did you install it yourself or have it done? I spy a Monarch 10E in the background. You have good taste in toys!
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Nice looking lift.... I did learn my lesson though, I just went ahead and bought the next deal that I found without stopping to ask if the price was right. If you ever decide to sell it, I have a good home for it in NW Georgia and promise to keep it warm loved....
There was a 12,000 lb Mohawk on CL listed last week for $2400. I would probably have gotten that one instead had it been listed at the same time. The local dealer has a 9000 lb Mohawk Series 1 for $3K. I had offered him $2400 about 6 months ago but no deal.
I'm going to do an oil change on my 7200 lb truck this weekend, so we'll see how the lift performs at its upper limit. I need to go buy one of those waste oil tanks with the extendable neck.
I'm going to do an oil change on my 7200 lb truck this weekend, so we'll see how the lift performs at its upper limit. I need to go buy one of those waste oil tanks with the extendable neck.
krooser
Well-known member
Your Mohawk is built like my old Weaver... it lifts with a hydraulic ram and leaf chain rather than cables... a much stronger set-up.
I've had an E350 with 3500# of freight on board on my 9K Weaver and it didn't even grunt. I expect that Mohawk will do the same...
I've had an E350 with 3500# of freight on board on my 9K Weaver and it didn't even grunt. I expect that Mohawk will do the same...
e-tek
Well-known member
15-20 MINUTES??? Just to position the arms?? Hopefully you get better at that!! lol!
Y'know, I too was going to buy a oil caddy with extendable funnel (oil caddy), instead of using the bucket, but either way, I hated having to empty everything so often. So I put a 45gal plastic drum on wheels, inserted a funnel inot it and now use it to collect oil. It's as tall as the oil caddy, rolls easily and lasts all year until near full. Then I can use the lift or cherry picker to put it in the truck and take it to Jiffy Lube to empty...
Some nice equipment ya have there!
Y'know, I too was going to buy a oil caddy with extendable funnel (oil caddy), instead of using the bucket, but either way, I hated having to empty everything so often. So I put a 45gal plastic drum on wheels, inserted a funnel inot it and now use it to collect oil. It's as tall as the oil caddy, rolls easily and lasts all year until near full. Then I can use the lift or cherry picker to put it in the truck and take it to Jiffy Lube to empty...
Some nice equipment ya have there!
Piper
Well-known member
ok so all I want to know is where are all these screaming deals on mohawk lifts on craigslist?? Hey craig are you listening???!
GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
Piper,
you have not been listening to Neal, all of the good deals are in Atlanta or Texas....
you have not been listening to Neal, all of the good deals are in Atlanta or Texas....
I hope so. First try I had the truck about 8" too far back so that the rear arms wouldn't reach the proper part of the frame. Lower and drive the truck forward.
Then position the arms again. The frame is a good 12-18" inside the sides, so difficult to see if they are actually under the frame properly. Raise again. Notice that arms are contacting bottom of sheet metal before the frame, so extensions are needed. Lower.
Put on extensions, reposition all arms. Raise until they don't quite touch. Go around to watch all arms, and reposition. Raise until wheels just leave the ground. Walk to the front of the truck and push up and down to ensure it's on securely. Finally raise up to work.
I will be doing the Jeep next: oil change and changing gear oil in the front diff. That will be a lot simpler. Half the weight and flat frame.
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mechamunch
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2009
- Messages
- 177
That thing is GIGANTIC. Very impressive!
Bevis
Well-known member
nice deal...I passed on a deal for the same lift, but had concerns with it lifting my 04 F350...Damn me!!! will have to call the guy tomorrow and see if he still has it.
Chip
New member
Could you pass on the local dealer contact information? I am in *******, GA as well and ready to have a lift installed.
CBR9Seadoo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2009
- Messages
- 52
I picked up a 9000 lb Mohawk Series 1 a couple of months ago on CL for $2300. It cost me another $1100 for the local servies rep to set it up. Thought that was outragous but what do you do when you want it done correctly.
Tim
Tim
The best way I have found for positioning vehicles on the two post lift (this is a rule of thumb) is on cars and short wheel base trucks put the floor board even with the post. On vans and extended cab trucks put the Seat even with the post. I have used this as a rule of thumb and have had no trouble reaching the lift points. I lift my 3500 duelly dodge deisel all the time without any problems.
Another trick is once the vehicle is on the lift, take it up a few feet off the ground and move to the back of the vehicle and push down on it. It will give you an indication of if it is stable or not. Remember that there will be sway and give in the arms so don't let that scare you.
I also purchased some screw jacks for lifts that I use under the hitch of extended cab trucks just to help stabilize them.(more a feeling of security than anything) but remember .....take them out before you start to lower the lift. This mistake is not made more then a couple of times i'll asure you. ha ha. Brian
Another trick is once the vehicle is on the lift, take it up a few feet off the ground and move to the back of the vehicle and push down on it. It will give you an indication of if it is stable or not. Remember that there will be sway and give in the arms so don't let that scare you.
I also purchased some screw jacks for lifts that I use under the hitch of extended cab trucks just to help stabilize them.(more a feeling of security than anything) but remember .....take them out before you start to lower the lift. This mistake is not made more then a couple of times i'll asure you. ha ha. Brian
djd99
Well-known member
Very nice lift, Those Mohawk's look extremely heavy mines rated for 9,000 pounds But I've never had a truck that big on it.
e-tek
Well-known member
That jeep looks COOL on there!
tatra
Well-known member
good to hear you took the time to get your truck set up just right,,,,,,,,seems ford trucks are always more of a challenge to set up than gm's...........tip would be to make a mark on the floor and to use a felt pen to mark the need adapters for each vehicle on the uprights........unless you are doing the same vehicle on a regular basis, very easy to forget.......damhikt........nice lift too........
just saw brownbagg's post about the newer chevs..........no experience past 95 myself so can't comment on that....maybe a thread on different hoist setups for different vehicles complete with pics would be in order............2 and 4 post with trolley jacks..........
just saw brownbagg's post about the newer chevs..........no experience past 95 myself so can't comment on that....maybe a thread on different hoist setups for different vehicles complete with pics would be in order............2 and 4 post with trolley jacks..........
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krooser
Well-known member
Ceiling is 13'. In the photo the truck is not all the way up. I raised it enough so that drain tank was under the oil pan, probably 5'.
I lifted the truck again today to check an oil leak (loose Fumoto valve). Setup went a lot faster this time.
OTOH, I have had the Jeep on it a lot. Last job was replacing the steering box, which would have been a PITA with a 4-post lift.
mmprestine
New member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
- Messages
- 1
Super old thread but would you care to share your dimension between the posts?
I have an A-7 that I am installing and the manual states 91.25" between columns and that seems a bit narrow for the 1/2 ton truck.
I have an A-7 that I am installing and the manual states 91.25" between columns and that seems a bit narrow for the 1/2 ton truck.
I have a System A10. Have you measured your hydraulic lines? Whats the distance between the upright portions of hydraulic lines? With any 2 post lift you won't be able to fully open your car door when on the lift... I'm unsure on the A-7 and asymmetric lifts to where the distance is measured. However, if you have a specific, application, the hydraulic lines are just seamless stainless steel lines, and you can buy new lines and shorten or extend them as needed. This is what I did when I embedded them under the concrete floor.
Brian
Brian
sierradmax
Well-known member
KVOM, It could be the picture but are those lift arms bending with the truck on the lift?!
sundevil64
Active member
Okay, I am jealous. Nice buy on the Mohawk. I ended up with a rotary which is fine. I would have preferred a Mohawk though. Great lifts.
MrBalll
Well-known member
kvom hasn't been active in almost a year. So you may not get an answer.
To me it looks like that long arm is bent. That's why I wouldn't want an asymmetrical for larger trucks. That would make me nervous every time I was under the rear end.
Super Mech
Well-known member
I would never attempt putting a F350 on my A7. I can't imagine how he got the arms to safely reach the chassis. I would love to see some closeup pictures of that arm setup.
tstaude
Well-known member
I have one of these lifts, man let me tell you it is built like a brick *********.
Each column with arms is over 1000#, 3/4" channel.
In that picture it looks like he has the rear arms over extended, not sure how as there are stops.
Each column with arms is over 1000#, 3/4" channel.
In that picture it looks like he has the rear arms over extended, not sure how as there are stops.
tstaude
Well-known member
did you have a hydraulic shop just make you standard lines with JIC fittings?
I am debating on adding this feature when I get the new concrete poured.
Mohawk price on the underground conversion kit is $472.
R-Savage
Well-known member
Nice Lift. Congrats on the new acquisition.
Short answer, no, I used compression fittings specifically designed for that type of SS hydraulic lines.
I bought my A10 new, and discussed the underground conversion kit with Mohawk prior to building my garage. I never got any good information what exactly was included in the kit, but two things really put me off of it. First, it's a bit expensive for what should be just some SS seamless tube, and some fittings. Second, they stated the kit was designed to be installed by saw cutting a trough in the concrete between your posts, laying the lines in the trough, and then filling the trough in with epoxy.
What I did was buy two 20' lengths of the same exact type and brand of SS tube. and bent and installed it prior to pouring the shop floor.
I set the lines to come up through the concrete on the outside of the columns, rather than the inside. Later when I installed the lift, I simply took the factory lines, ran them up the column, turned them 180 degrees and then back down the other side. The compression fittings weren't cheap, but they were well made. They came with specific instructions to install them, turn them finger tight, the X degrees with a wrench, no more, no less. I had exactly 0 hydraulic leaks. PM me if you want more info on the specific tube or fittings.
Brian
I bought my A10 new, and discussed the underground conversion kit with Mohawk prior to building my garage. I never got any good information what exactly was included in the kit, but two things really put me off of it. First, it's a bit expensive for what should be just some SS seamless tube, and some fittings. Second, they stated the kit was designed to be installed by saw cutting a trough in the concrete between your posts, laying the lines in the trough, and then filling the trough in with epoxy.
What I did was buy two 20' lengths of the same exact type and brand of SS tube. and bent and installed it prior to pouring the shop floor.
I set the lines to come up through the concrete on the outside of the columns, rather than the inside. Later when I installed the lift, I simply took the factory lines, ran them up the column, turned them 180 degrees and then back down the other side. The compression fittings weren't cheap, but they were well made. They came with specific instructions to install them, turn them finger tight, the X degrees with a wrench, no more, no less. I had exactly 0 hydraulic leaks. PM me if you want more info on the specific tube or fittings.
Brian
I just installed an a7 with the unground kit. I left a trough between the columns 2"wide and 2" deep. After the install I filled the trough with nonshrink grout Can't really tell its there. Only thing I would have done differently is make my own lines and set tje columns 6" further apart
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tstaude
Well-known member
Thanks for the input guys!