Mohawk Lift Switch

[Bryan-B]

Hey Guys, I installed a Mohawk IA-10 lift last spring in my shop and I really like it. I've used it several times without issue until recently when I was lifting my father in-laws pickup, the button for the motor control stuck in the on position, not cool! Thankfully I got it unplugged before anything catastrophic happened. So obviously id like to replace the switch. Currently it has a 25 amp 2 pole switch made by Unimax, but I'm realizing this switch is no longer available. I contacted Mohawk directly and they confirmed that the switch is obsolete and they recommend a 20 amp single pole switch and wiring it so that one leg of the motor always stays hot. What do you guys think of this? Is this common? should I wire it up this way and just unplug the lift when its not in use?

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

You can use the switch they suggested since the original one is obsolete and I highly recommend that you install a "aftermarket" EMERGENCY STOP switch just in case you have a "switch failure" situation like you had.…… Easy to do and this will stop the "run away" lift.

 

[BillK]

I agree with Chuck. I would use the switch that the manufacturer recommends. But also put some type of emergency shut off right there on the column.

 

[Bryan-B]

You guys may be onto something. Currently, it has its own receptacle on the column that the lift plugs into, so you can yank the plug out if things get hairy. This is also how Mohawk recommends to do it. When I use it now, I have one hand on the button and one hand on the plug…

 

[wssix99]

Currently it has a 25 amp 2 pole switch made by Unimax, but I'm realizing this switch is no longer available.

Unimax was purchased by Littlefuse and the switch now has a new part number: https://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Snap/A

My guess is that it is either ADPDF3J04AC or ADPFF3J04AC <- A quick search didn't turn up any places that have these on the shelf, but you may try calling Littlefuse to see if they can pull up their Unimax part number cross reference to confirm for you. Their customer service people should hopefully also be able to tell you who might stock the items so you can plug-n-play this.

... I would still wire in an emergency stop button, though. I have them on my lifts now and it really reduces the pucker factor.

 

[Bryan-B]

Unimax was purchased by Littlefuse and the switch now has a new part number: https://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Snap/A

My guess is that it is either ADPDF3J04AC or ADPFF3J04AC <- A quick search didn't turn up any places that have these on the shelf, but you may try calling Littlefuse to see if they can pull up their Unimax part number cross reference to confirm for you. Their customer service people should hopefully also be able to tell you who might stock the items so you can plug-n-play this.

... I would still wire in an emergency stop button, though. I have them on my lifts now and it really reduces the pucker factor.

Great info! I’ll reach out to them. I’ll look at that emergency stop switch closer too. Might be the ticket

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

This is also how Mohawk recommends to do it. When I use it now, I have one hand on the button and one hand on the plug…

Maybe Mohawk (or any other lift manufacture) should just install a $20 paddle switch as an emergency shut off switch.
Holding your hand on the plug while operating the lift is a BS way to operate the lift and shame on Mohawk for suggesting to "pull the plug" instead of installing a paddle switch is poor at best.…… The sad thing is Mohawk is a well known as a quality lift.

Here is what I added to my lift after I heard about a "run away" (failed switch) malfunction.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I had initially installed a slap switch with the original push button on my Forward lift. I then added a contactor (big relay) later, after the second runaway when lifting a significant load.

I was able to fit the slap switch in the same motor housing as the push button, with the contactor (in the gray box) added later.



Here is my wiring diagram that shows how the contactor takes the load off the PB and the uptravel microswitch.

 

[walta]

I had initially installed a slap switch with the original push button on my Forward lift. I then added a contactor (big relay) later, after the second runaway when lifting a significant load.

I was able to fit the slap switch in the same motor housing as the push button, with the contactor (in the gray box) added later.
Here is my wiring diagram that shows how the contactor takes the load off the PB and the uptravel microswith.

The contactor is a great idea mostly because I simply do not believe the low cost Chinese switch will truly break a 2 horse power motor circuit reliably before the car gets crushed.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

The contactor is a great idea mostly because I simply do not believe the low cost Chinese switch will truly break a 2 horse power motor circuit reliably before the car gets crushed.

"IF" I was using my lift on a daily basis I would definitely go with the contactor AND install the EMERGENCY shut off switch on the line side……… The emergency shut off switch could be a standard switch to kill the power.

BTW! If you have a contactor you can also install a maximum height cut off switch.

 

[mm08822]

Maybe Mohawk (or any other lift manufacture) should just install a $20 paddle switch as an emergency shut off switch.
Holding your hand on the plug while operating the lift is a BS way to operate the lift and shame on Mohawk for suggesting to "pull the plug" instead of installing a paddle switch is poor at best.…… The sad thing is Mohawk is a well known as a quality lift.

Here is what I added to my lift after I heard about a "run away" (failed switch) malfunction.

I'd rather use a positive blade disco (lever activated) than trust another Chicom switch. OP's original switch was 2 hp rated also!
Locate the disco right next to existing control.

 

[Quik5oh]

@Bryan-B

I bought the exact same lift as you - Mohawk System 1A-10K. It will be delivered in a couple weeks. If you wouldn't mind sharing how you wired your lift, that would be super helpful and appreciated.

The Mohawk instructions reference 20A 2-Pole breaker with 12/4. Did you run 12/4 Romex from your panel to a junction and then tied in 12/4 SOOW? I'm very much considering a slap switch as referenced in this thread.

 

[Kezorm]

Here's how I wired mine. "Emergency disconnect" is an L14-20 plug right near the button. I may eventually get around to a proper E-stop, but I'm comfortable with this for now.

 

[Quik5oh]

Here's how I wired mine. "Emergency disconnect" is an L14-20 plug right near the button. I may eventually get around to a proper E-stop, but I'm comfortable with this for now.

That's a great setup with the additional receptacles on the mast.

Double pole 20A breaker?
Did you run 12/4 Romex or 12/3 from your breaker panel to the receptacles and then from the receptacles to the L14-20?

 

[Kezorm]

That's a great setup with the additional receptacles on the mast.

Double pole 20A breaker?
Did you run 12/4 Romex or 12/3 from your breaker panel to the receptacles and then from the receptacles to the L14-20?

Thanks. It's all run in conduit under the slab and up alongside the posts. I planned the build specifically for this lift. Hydraulic lines are also run under the slab.

Yes, double pole 20A for the lift. I pulled a neutral as well. This would be equivalent to 12/3 (2 hots, neutral, ground). That said, the lift doesn't actually need neutral. You could get away with 12/2.

I looked at manual and it does indeed state "12/4". But this isn't really correct - or at least it's not referring to 12/4 NM-B (Romex). They are calling out 4 conductor, 12 AWG service cord (i.e. the black cord with plug on it in my picture). But again, the lift doesn't actually need 4 conductors (assuming 240V single phase power). The neutral isn't connected to anything and so it only needs 2 hots + ground. You could get away with 3 conductor, 12 AWG service cord.

I also pulled 2 other 120V, 20A circuits in the conduit - the additional receptacles on the post. The other side has similar treatment with additional 240V receptacles for welders, plasma cutter, etc.

 

[Quik5oh]

Thanks. It's all run in conduit under the slab and up alongside the posts. I planned the build specifically for this lift. Hydraulic lines are also run under the slab.

Yes, double pole 20A for the lift. I pulled a neutral as well. This would be equivalent to 12/3 (2 hots, neutral, ground). That said, the lift doesn't actually need neutral. You could get away with 12/2.

I looked at manual and it does indeed state "12/4". But this isn't really correct - or at least it's not referring to 12/4 NM-B (Romex). They are calling out 4 conductor, 12 AWG service cord (i.e. the black cord with plug on it in my picture). But again, the lift doesn't actually need 4 conductors (assuming 240V single phase power). The neutral isn't connected to anything and so it only needs 2 hots + ground. You could get away with 3 conductor, 12 AWG service cord.

I also pulled 2 other 120V, 20A circuits in the conduit - the additional receptacles on the post. The other side has similar treatment with additional 240V receptacles for welders, plasma cutter, etc.

Thank you again! This is super helpful and the detail that you shared gives me exactly what I was looking for.

Is your lift a System 1A-10K as well?

 

[dscheidt]

Thanks. It's all run in conduit under the slab and up alongside the posts. I planned the build specifically for this lift. Hydraulic lines are also run under the slab.

Yes, double pole 20A for the lift. I pulled a neutral as well. This would be equivalent to 12/3 (2 hots, neutral, ground). That said, the lift doesn't actually need neutral. You could get away with 12/2.

I looked at manual and it does indeed state "12/4". But this isn't really correct - or at least it's not referring to 12/4 NM-B (Romex). They are calling out 4 conductor, 12 AWG service cord (i.e. the black cord with plug on it in my picture). But again, the lift doesn't actually need 4 conductors (assuming 240V single phase power). The neutral isn't connected to anything and so it only needs 2 hots + ground. You could get away with 3 conductor, 12 AWG service cord.

I also pulled 2 other 120V, 20A circuits in the conduit - the additional receptacles on the post. The other side has similar treatment with additional 240V receptacles for welders, plasma cutter, etc.

I am sure the reason they call out a four conductor cable is so when someone decides to add an outlet from the lift, there’s a neutral. You know someone would use the ground.

 

[Kezorm]

Is your lift a System 1A-10K as well?

Yes.

I am sure the reason they call out a four conductor cable is so when someone decides to add an outlet from the lift, there’s a neutral. You know someone would use the ground.

4 conductor because it covers the 3-phase case. I expect single phase residential power is the oddball in their product line.

 

[Quik5oh]

Yes.


4 conductor because it covers the 3-phase case. I expect single phase residential power is the oddball in their product line.

Makes sense.

What size EMT did you use, is that 1/2"? How many conductors do you put in the EMT?

 

[Kezorm]

Lift control side is 1/2" EMT. Eight 12AWG THHN conductors. 2 hot + neutral for 120/240V lift receptacle. 2x hot + neutral for each of the 120V receptacle circuits. 1 ground.

Opposite side is 3/4" EMT. (2) 12 for 120V 20A receptacles, (3) 10 for 120/240V 30A, (2) 6 for 240V 50A, (1) 10 for ground.

 

[Quik5oh]

Lift control side is 1/2" EMT. Eight 12AWG THHN conductors. 2 hot + neutral for 120/240V lift receptacle. 2x hot + neutral for each of the 120V receptacle circuits. 1 ground.

Opposite side is 3/4" EMT. (2) 12 for 120V 20A receptacles, (3) 10 for 120/240V 30A, (2) 6 for 240V 50A, (1) 10 for ground.

Thank you.
Do you recall if your Mohawk came with the 1-2' SOOW cord with the male plug already wired to the motor or was it just part of the shipment?

 

[Kezorm]

Thank you.
Do you recall if your Mohawk came with the 1-2' SOOW cord with the male plug already wired to the motor or was it just part of the shipment?

It came with the short cord / plug already wired. Although I can't say if put there by Mohawk or the installer.