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Moisture migration thru slab Please Help!

roddo

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Messages
5
Slab was poured about 8 years ago with no vapor barrier on compacted earth no crushed rock plain old ground. Only good thing is it is on a hill high above water table with good drainage away from foundation. Problem is when it does get humid and temp swings lots of water accumulates on floor to the point of puddling in some sections., Contractors said I did not need a vapor barrier what a bunch of bs:dunno:. Since then I myself did 2 slabs a year ago with a moisture barrier installed both bone dry. The slab that is giving me issues of water migration is 26x32 garage with living space above. Currently unheated. The slab is thick 8"+. Especially thick on half the garage that is giving me problems about 12"+ inches I know way overkill but I was going to put a lift in that side. Concrete was 5000psi mix with fibers added. Power trowelled smooth finish which I currently ground down with Edco twin head grinder. I removed the top layer of cream and now only show aggregate. Then I etched it with pure muriatic acid neutralized with baking soda and thoroughly power washed slab. No white residue left after power washing. let dry 10 days and applied Armor Foundations S2000 which is an enhanced densifier which they guaranteed would stop water migration.I did not find this site until after buying the s2000:sad: I applied 4 coats using hot water as they recommended and also waited 24 hours between coats. Waited 10 days and did a plastic sheet test 2'x2' duct taped down for 72 hours. Result was no condensation on plastic but the concrete was darker in the area taped down. I put a small digital hygrometer under plastic which read 80% rh. I did 2 other spots in garage and both spots did not turn darker like this one. Called Armor foundation and they told me to apply another coat wait 10 days and retest. Question is am I wasting my time? I am also going to do calcium chloride test to get a more accurate reading of how much moisture is coming up thru slab. I cannot rip up the slab do to how thick it is otherwise I would. Is there any other product that I could put on slab to reduce the moisture coming thru? When should I stop putting coats of densifier down is there a point when the concrete will not absorb anymore? With a 72 hour plastic test should the concrete change and get darker at all ? As long as there is no condensation on plastic is this ok? Any help would be much appreciated. I cannot believe how $20 worth of plastic could of saved this garage! All I want to do is paint the floor with epoxy, but I don't want it to fail do to water vapor seeping thru slab.
 
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ConCretin

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Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Please pardon the simple response but are you sure the moisture is coming up through the slab and not condensing on it. You mention high humidity and temperature swings. Sounds more like condensation than water vapor transmission, which typically doesn't manifest itself as visible surface moisture.
 
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roddo

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Messages
5
I am sure condensation on top of slab is a big factor, but I also read that when you have moisture coming thru the slab it causes condensation to form easier on the slab because the moisture in the air and moisture coming from the slab causing the dew point to happen sooner.My other slabs which I installed with a vapor barrier right next to the garage have no problems with condensation forming on slab they are always dry.. They too are also a garage structure and insulated same as the garage that I am having a problem with. The only difference is the vapor barrier under the slab. So what I want to do is slow down the water migration wicking up through the slab as much as possible to help with the condensation and also make sure the epoxy coating will not peel off. I will then heat garage in winter and run dehumidifier when temp is above 60 degrees. I read there are a couple of topical moisture barrier coatings I can use. I just want to find out which work the best and also are compatible with the densifier I already put down.
 

dcs Inc

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Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
I don't think you will find a vapor barrier epoxy that is compatible with what you have on the concrete now.... could be wrong. Most topically applied vapor barrier epoxies need the pores open for a deep saturation. We produce a product that will hold back up to 12 pounds pressure, there are products on the market that will hold back 99% relative humidity.
 
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thegarageguy

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
1,489
Location
NJ
It's a good idea to get a manufacturer involved or a contractor that works closely with a particular manufacturer to warranty their system. A core sample may be necessary to analyze and determine the correct solution for you.

I suggest you call a few Companies, such as Dur-A-Flex, Duraamen, Flowcrete, Florock, Hp Spartacote to name a few....call, ask for a rep in your area, explain your issue and ask for 3 qualified installers to bid your job.

Good luck

Ps, I've worked on slabs with similar situations and years later worry free.
 
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roddo

Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Messages
5
Actually I just bought 3 calcium chloride kits from Legacy industrial. Any pointers when using the kit. I will make sure that temp is steady in garage around 65 degrees and RH between 50-60% for a few days before and during test. I think, depending on test result, that I am going to shot blast the floor and use the Mapei planiseal vs followed by an epoxy topcoat? What do you think?
 
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