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mold issues new home owner

statictree83

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Sep 29, 2014
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So I have a 24-32 garage. It has roll out insulation for a ceiling and walls the interior walls are not finished. I am installing a wood stove next year but for this year I heat it with a propane salamander. Issue is I started last fall by putting up basic osb board on one wall. Now that wall is growing mold. The garage will only be heated about 5-10 times a month over the winter. Could I put up the foil lined sheets of insulation in place of the osb. I'm not concerned with looks only cost and can't have mold.
 
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CNGsaves

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Too little information. WHERE is this located as mold just doesn't spring to life unless proper conditions exist. Why is there moisture with no ventilation?? Let's SEE pictures.

:needpics:

Also, now is time to Update GJ Profile with City/State/Country.
 
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statictree83

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I will update that info later today as I'm about to sleep after a midnight shift. This garage is located in upstate NY north of Watertown. It has vinyl siding plywood walls and the walls are part finished with r12. The ceiling is ten foot and there is r12 between the two by fours. Its only hung there by strapping. I can get free wood as my wives parents have a lumber business. I def want the wood stove and I'm hoping that with the dryer heat compared to the propane torpedo heater it will stop growing white mold. There was previously a wood stove out there but it was ran with single wall pipe tight thru the wall so I removed that and I'm buying a triple wall kit to go straight up. I haven't found any other mold. Which leads me to believe I was that blasted heater I bought a month ago to get thru this winter
 
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statictree83

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Oh and the doors are leaky which ill patch up until I can afford new ones. I will take a few pics today
 

CNGsaves

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Does sound like torpedo LPG heater contributed to your mold problem since you're in such cold environment.

Garage attached or detached?? What "fuel" sources you have available for heat like natural gas, propane, or electric?? Subpanel in garage and what amp??

You might be able to re-use the hole in wall for horizontal hanging heater (LPG or NG). That way you'd have backup plan if the wood stove idea doesn't happen.

Or you could install affordable 240v hanging electric heater to supplement the wood stove, if it's a sure thing.
 
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statictree83

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I hope this works this is all four corners from the middle. I started the ply wood but it molded fast using the torpedo heater a few times a week for a month
 

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nehog

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Personally, I think you should install a properly vented heater... I don't think a wood stove is a good idea (they take way too long to heat up the shop and as well insurance will be non-existent (no insurance company will cover a solid fueled heat setup installation.) As well a wood stove would likely cost more in the end due to more expensive chimney requirements. (A gas heater could be wall vented, even...)
 
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statictree83

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Up here the ins dont care as long as it meets manufacturing specs. It would cost alot to run a gas heater out here. I dont have any natural gas lines my house is electric heat until I can afford a Ng furnace. Electric just isn't warm enough. Plus I like the idea of the wood crackling. The chimney will run me about 400 I have a very low pitch on the roof. I'm just worried about mold from only heating it part time
 
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statictree83

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Five years from now after I put the roof on the house and a few other things I will install a gas heater but I need something for now and I already have the wood stove.
 

sr71

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in general heating and then letting the space drop to outside temps is a bad idea. condensation occurs - this will eventually rust exposed metal and perhaps is contributing to the mold ( I sense more is going on though). be real careful when running that salamander with the exposed ceiling insulation….T9 on the tools will help prevent rust
 
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statictree83

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It was heated for a few years with the old stove out there and I dont see any rust I knew the guy who lived here and he heated it off and on with the stove but I really think this salamander is my moisture concern. Although I do know I should keep it up over 40 all winter but I work 12 hour shifts and can't afford a constant gas heater to run. I know of a few people who heat on and off with wood stoves and don't have mold but they do have rust formation on metal. They also heat it enough were the ceiling will rain on them for an hour but they heat it for the day so it dries back out before cooling.
 
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statictree83

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If I'm running my wood stove it'll be for the whole day not a few hours if that makes sense what I said above
 

ambenz

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I concur with Kevin, allowing space temp to rise and fall can only lead to problems you currently are encountering.
Yes, the salamander heater could be a cause of moisture buildup but I suspect by intermittently heating and cooling, your just begging for condensation build up in your open insulation and wall cavities.
Just like starting a car and seeing moisture drip out of the weep holes and exhaust of a muffler, that's what's happening to your building.
It's one reason I went with ridged foam foil faced insulation on my garage ceiling and foam panels between the studs in the walls.
If your going to swing temperatures in your space, you should have a vapor barrier..the application you currently have isn't conducive to your plans until a vapor barrier is installed.
 
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CNGsaves

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Yikes . . . . . you're pretty much in Canada !! No kidding that you NEED some heat in there !!

Might be able to just drill into ground and get your own free natural gas !! :D

+1 to plan on absolute best and MOST insulation that you can afford . . . . but only AFTER you've got all your rough electrical and lighting done. If you ever plan to realistically get NG service, then I'd rough in black pipe steel pipe in wall before you close it all up, so you have stub sticking out of wall (up near location of hanging heater) and out through building above grade.

With your situation (torpedo LPG, woodstove, cold climate), I'd also install vapor barrier and airseal all outlets/switch boxes in walls ("Canada style").

Finally, I'd go with sheetrock on the ceiling for fireproof protection. Walls could be OSB but they need to be caulked/sealed and heavily painted to create air envelope of building. Where the wood stove will sit, I'd also cover the OSB with corrugated steel for fire protection.
 

Bondo

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If I'm running my wood stove it'll be for the whole day not a few hours if that makes sense what I said above

Ayuh,..... Howdy Neighbor,... I'm right outside of Watertown too, 'n a life long Wood Burner,...

I too, believe the Lp burner is the biggest reason yer gettin' the mold,...
Goin' to wood heat would fix the entire issue, but is a step in the right direction,....
The Lp burner uses air from within, 'n of course, ain't vented outdoors,...
The wood stove however, is vented, with a natural draft, to the outdoors, yet still will be pullin' moisture laden air from the inside, 'n ventin' atleast some of that moisture, outdoors,...
Could I put up the foil lined sheets of insulation in place of the osb. I'm not concerned with looks only cost and can't have mold.

Personally, I think the foil sheet insulation will be a cleaner install, as it'll drip off/ evaporate, 'n not give the mold the crevices, 'n food to get started, the Osb does,...

Whenever yer ready to cover the walls, 'n ceilin's, you'll already have the added insulation, in-place,...
 
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statictree83

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So just hanging some insulation board with the seems sealed and installing a wood stove will help some. I'll get it as air tight as I can but its almost 50 years old the house was built in 1907. What would be a good thing for the walls and ceiling. I was thinking about leaving it with just the insulation I like the silver look. Of course a couple of sheets of fire resistance sheet rock to run the chimney thru
 
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statictree83

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I'm not sure why but I'm bent on this wood stove I really like the feel and smell of wood heat so its almost a hobby thing. I just want it to be safe and not grow mold. I've had serious mold problems in an apartment which in turn made me buy instead of renting. Landlord thought painting over black mold was a permanent fix
 
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statictree83

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Would the rigid foam board if its taped at the seems create a moisture barrier. I'm new to all of this its kind learn as I go but on a budget
 
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