mold resistant drywall?

[Makoto]

Simple dilemma, do I get the regular stuff or the mold resistant drywall for my houston, tx garage?

I will be insulating it, having attic ventilation, and it won't have AC for a long time (if ever).

thanks!

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would compare prices, if it's not that much more it wouldn't hurt... But every garage I've seen always just has the regular drywall...

 

[2CRUZ]

I used the mold resistant green dry wall. It gets real humid here in the summer time and I leave the garage doors open a lot. I also painted the inside of my garage with exterior paint hoping that the humidity won't affect it as bad. Mabey just over kill.

 

[volleyball]

You'll need 5/8" if it is attached. I haven't seen that in mold resistant.

 

[b974k]

I covered my walls with T11 wood paneling I love it Can mount anything on it hose it down bump it

 

[nolimits76]

I live in OK, and have similar hot humid summers. Typically, green drywall is for baths. Not to say you can't use in the garage, but never seen it happen.

Probably a cost issue more than anything. If a small premium and you feel better doing it then go for it. Otherwise stick with the normal.

 

[astroracer]

I'm in Michigan. It gets humid here. Regular drywall in my attached 2 car. Never Painted. No mold... No issue. Don't worry about it. ESPECIALLY if you paint it.
Mark

 

[theoldwizard1]

You'll need 5/8" if it is attached. I haven't seen that in mold resistant.

Some places actually require a double layer of 1/2" for a "fire wall". Mud and tape the first layer. No overlapping edges. Mud and tape the second.



Mold/mildew will grow if the moisture is trapped.

 

[finn]

As far as I know the 5/8" is only required as a firewall in an attached garage between the garage and house. 1/2" is ok for the other walls or for a detached garage, although some people here like thicker sheeetrock for puncture protection.

I switched to the mold resistant rock for the rest of my garage, although I haven't really had problems with the regular stuff. In the grand scheme of things the cost isn't that much more. In fact, I think Menards moisture resistant was cheaper than what I paid for regular at the local yard.

 

[Architorture]

the current ibc codes actually only call for 1/2" on walls adjoining the home....5/8" is for a ceiling with habitable space above....local conditions may vary.

as for the mold resistant board I doubt your garage will get moist enough to justify its use. If the garage door is opening a couple times a day you are going to get enough of an air change to deal with the moisture and it is a big space that will develop its own air circulation when the door is closed...unlike a relatively small bathroom with very large amounts of moisture introduced in a short period of time.

a different benefit of 5/8" type x is that it is harder which might be of benefit to your situation.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Hi for my basement shop project, I used mold/mildew resistant drywall, which is basically layered one side only in fiberglass instead of paper. I uses no paper. The other side is just the drywall without anything (the side towards the inside of the wall). This is good stuff, only about a dollar or two more a sheet for me, and well worth it. Be sure to also use paint that is mold resistant too as some are better than others. I'll not ever use paper faced drywall again after using this. Much better stuff.

An alternative would also be unfaced drywall with just the gypsum present. Gypsum is "mold free", it is the paper that is not if present. But the fiberglass or paper layer makes it look better when painted, or just give it two coats naked which would be fine too and mold free. - Paul

 

[starquestMM]

the current ibc codes actually only call for 1/2" on walls adjoining the home....5/8" is for a ceiling with habitable space above....local conditions may vary.

a different benefit of 5/8" type x is that it is harder which might be of benefit to your situation.

I can second that. I used 5/8" type x and painted it with "sanded" paint. Its holding up better than I would have ever imagined.

I special ordered the 5/8 X MR at menards and it came in wrong the first time. All together it was about five weeks, I'm guessing it must not be that common.

 

[CanadaBoy]

As far as I know the 5/8" is only required as a firewall in an attached garage between the garage and house. 1/2" is ok for the other walls or for a detached garage,

Or ceiling and all joints filled. Double 1/2 is ok too.

 

[finn]

as for the mold resistant board I doubt your garage will get moist enough to justify its use. If the garage door is opening a couple times a day you are going to get enough of an air change to deal with the moisture and it is a big space that will develop its own air circulation when the door is closed...unlike a relatively small bathroom with very large amounts of moisture introduced in a short period of time.

a different benefit of 5/8" type x is that it is harder which might be of benefit to your situation.

Actually, if you live in the snow belt the amount of in-garage humidity from the snow/ice/roadsalt can be very high. My floor in Michigan stays wet for weeks if the temp is right, and my pickup may have a foot or two of snow in the bed when put in the garage. That moisture goes somewhere.

Similarily, there are often comments about hosing off the car in the garage. Mold resistant rock would help there too.

 

[awonderfulworld]

Don't think it's needed, but if you wanted extra protection take a look at DensArmor Plus: http://www.buildgp.com/densarmorplus-high-performance-gypsum-panels

Found it at Lowes here in Canada - Fiberglass front and back, not much more than regular drywall (but very heavy).

 

[Architorture]

Actually, if you live in the snow belt the amount of in-garage humidity from the snow/ice/roadsalt can be very high. My floor in Michigan stays wet for weeks if the temp is right, and my pickup may have a foot or two of snow in the bed when put in the garage. That moisture goes somewhere.

Similarily, there are often comments about hosing off the car in the garage. Mold resistant rock would help there too.

you know why the water is on the floor for weeks? Because it isn't in the air...Cold air cannot hold as much moisture as warm air so the water doesn't evaporate because the air is full. But although full, cold air takes much less to get there. a room of cold air might have a liter of water in it and be "full"....the same room of warm air might have 10s of liters of water with room to spare.

Now if water won't evaporate in warm weather then you are approaching 100% relative humidity and you'll have moisture problems because warm air can hold much more water so the potential for condensation is much higher.

 

[Hornman]

I think everyone missed that the OP lives in Houston. I lived there for ten years and know that the humidity can hang at 98% for months at a time. If I was going to build something there, I would use mold resistant everything, cause the question about mold in your house was not "do you have mold in your house?", but "where is the mold in your house?".