Molding a small socket box

[theoldwizard1]

I have a Craftsman 1/4" socket set that came with a blow molded case many, MANY years ago. The case is dying

I want to mold another case with individual pockets for each socket. I want to use the sockets themselves as for molding the pockets (probably wrap them in a couple layer of wax paper) to get a good, but not too snug, fit.

Epoxy would be overkill and I don't want to spend a ton of $$$. Expanding foam is cheap, but you can not control the expansion and it frequently leaves air pockets. (I am NOT talking about a lost foam casting. The foam would be the final product.)

Suggestion ?

 

[astroracer]

Automotive body filler.

 

[paranoid56]

i would try a vacuum mold setup, should be cheap to DIY and give a good fit.

 

[Graham08]

If you can model it, you might look into 3D printing one. A friend at work has a 3D printer and is a member of a site where you can send your CAD geometry and get a job quoted for printing. He does this on the side to pick up a little extra cash.

 

[dogdog]

i would try a vacuum mold setup, should be cheap to DIY and give a good fit.

^^^

This would be the thing to do... vacuum forming.

1/16 thick plastic sheet...

vacuum is just a biggest shop vac you can find

fancier version.

probably home DIY is something like this.

you can skip the heat lamp setup if you go back to the basic and use the oven like in the good old days.

 

[ddawg16]

If you can model it, you might look into 3D printing one. A friend at work has a 3D printer and is a member of a site where you can send your CAD geometry and get a job quoted for printing. He does this on the side to pick up a little extra cash.

3D Printing without a doubt.

Once you get into it, you find all kinds of uses.

Me? I'm using it to make a prototype bracket for my disk brake conv on my jeep

 

[matt_i]

I'm not super knowledgeable about it other than talking to my brother about it.

Kydex is a thermoplastic you can mold to various shapes. I think you just need an oven or toaster oven.

 

[laser3kw]

consider "tool box foam", the kind socket organizers are made of. You will have to make a "knife" to cut out the desired shape and tension. Heat the knife up with a heat gun, press it into foam - custom tool holder.

 

[toplessHO]

Ive been meaning to do a vacuum table,its just that every time I think of starting I find out it wouldnt have been big enough to do what I needed. Lawnmower seats,jetski seats,the possibilities are endless.

 

[ddawg16]

I've just starting getting into 3D printing.....

Without a doubt, this is a perfect application for 3D printing.

The CAD would be super easy....your old tray is your template.

Download the free version of Fusion 360 (free for hobby and school)

Create a block with the outside dimensions you want....then start pushing holes into the block with the size you want.

When you are done, you take the dwg file and import it into the 3D printer software...it creates the G file...

Depending on the quality of your 3D printer, you could even include the socket size text on the block

 

[gte718p]

You’ll see me doing this with the 3D printer in a few week. Movers trashed my tool box so all the little trays are destroyed. Will not strictly necessary they do make for great organization. As soon as I get my office setup I’m going to model and print trays in ABS.

 

[ddawg16]

You’ll see me doing this with the 3D printer in a few week. Movers trashed my tool box so all the little trays are destroyed. Will not strictly necessary they do make for great organization. As soon as I get my office setup I’m going to model and print trays in ABS.

Yell if you need some 3D Cad help.....stuff like that is supper easy....

I have a Craftsman 3/8"- 1/4" socket set that the lid came off. I think a custom tray would be better.

But, I'm inclined to go with posts for each size vs holes.

The set has both SAE and metric....I think I'd prefer 2 trays....one for each type.

 

[gte718p]

Yell if you need some 3D Cad help.....stuff like that is supper easy....

I have a Craftsman 3/8"- 1/4" socket set that the lid came off. I think a custom tray would be better.

But, I'm inclined to go with posts for each size vs holes.

The set has both SAE and metric....I think I'd prefer 2 trays....one for each type.

Thanks, I think I’m covered on the modeling with almost 8000 billed hours of F360, Catia, ProE, NG graphics, Ideas, Fluent, and AutoCad R14 over the last 25 years.

I have one of the older SnapOn tech boxes where the trays all matched the drawed. I’m going make identical layouts but filled instead ABS instead of vacuum formed sheet.

I got the office setup this evening and was excited to get started. Of course I had a set back as my monitors where broken in the move

 

[DHCrocks]

how about the pourable silicone rubber they use for molds? you could just tape off the socket holes and pour the rubber and let it set. the rubber should provide some friction for a secure grip on the sockets and it will be custom shaped.

 

[ddawg16]

Thanks, I think I’m covered on the modeling with almost 8000 billed hours of F360, Catia, ProE, NG graphics, Ideas, Fluent, and AutoCad R14 over the last 25 years.

I have one of the older SnapOn tech boxes where the trays all matched the drawed. I’m going make identical layouts but filled instead ABS instead of vacuum formed sheet.

I got the office setup this evening and was excited to get started. Of course I had a set back as my monitors where broken in the move

Not impressed.............


(said with maximus sarcasimus)

I haven't messed with SolidWorks or Catia.....my 3D requirements are simple.....

But it is a bit of a challenge going from AutoCad to F360.....different mind set.

But I'll take F360 over Google's Sketchup any day

NG? Giving away your age......

 

[NUTTSGT]

How old school wood ?

 

[ChevyEFI]

There's probably a case out there with imported 12-pt tools in it that would meet your needs perfectly.
SK cases are good. The Kobalt and Husky stuff. Worst case, you'd have to heat things up to get the horrible Craftmsna ratchet to fit.
Keep your eyes peeled and scour the internet; you'll find it.

 

[gte718p]

Not impressed.............


(said with maximus sarcasimus)

I haven't messed with SolidWorks or Catia.....my 3D requirements are simple.....

But it is a bit of a challenge going from AutoCad to F360.....different mind set.

But I'll take F360 over Google's Sketchup any day

NG? Giving away your age......

I love and hate my college education. It was annoying at the time that they didn't teach any particular program so it felt like I didn't have any particular skills. You had projects, but you basically had to learn the system on your own. However, they taught the theory and how the systems work behind the scenes. It makes it really easy to learn new CAD systems.

I started in R14 4 years before I started unigrpaphics. That really should date me more then NG. NG is still my favorite program. Sadly it no longer exists. I think they have been sold twice now. I believe Siemens now owns it and the core has been folded into Solid Edge. Of course that was 20 years ago so I might just be looking back with rose colored glasses.

Catia was/might still be the default for the Aerospace industry. Back in the day, it was the best if you where going to do Aero CFD. Since my background is in high performance electric vehicles, specifically solar powered, i spent a lot of time with it in college.

I'm a fan of F360. It is what I use none professionally. I'm becoming a fan of Solid Edge. I may be biased as they sponsor an organization I work with, and I can get the software free. However, it has all the benefits of a good parametric CAD program without being tied to the history.

 

[Kevin54]

Hobby Lobby for some silicone or resin casting kits possibly.

 

[gte718p]

Work flow:

Take a picture with something to use as a scale.

Picture imported to Fusion and use the scale to bring the picture to real size.

Trace:

Export to Slic3r:

About 5 minutes of work. This time I actually didn't end up using the picture. I forgot the iphone camera is not centered so there was s good bit of parallax. It was easier to grab an engineering scale and the calipers then to fix the picture.

In general you want the lens centered on the part and square to the part. The higher the lens is the better, with the focus to infinity. You can actually model with an image and calculate the parallax, angle, and focal length, but that get complicated quickly.

I have several long prints queued up, I'll get around to printing this in a couple of days. Slic3r says about three hours to print. Most likely will print in black ABS.

 

[gte718p]

Tray printing. I made some poor layout choices so it is a 13 hour print. Could cut that in half with some better choices.

This is the next one, probably more interesting as it has individual pockets. Took about two hours to model as my picture was bad again. However with parameteric CAD, you can draw what it looks like on the photo and then go back and measure and adjust.

This one is bigger then my machine. I have it split to print in two parts or I may just send it out. Have not decided.