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Molding Plasti-Dip

nhmercracer

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May 4, 2009
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Leesburg, FL
I want to make some lugnut covers which will also cover an extended stud. I want to use Plasti-Dip. I plan on using a nut and a length of wooden dowel to make the mold. I will seal the wood with an epoxy.

My question is this: What should I use for a mold release agent? It has to be something which will not poison the Plasti-Dip, rendering it unusable.

Any ideas?
 
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dankicksass

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Plastidip sticks to wood very well, and the grain in wood won't help things either. Not sure why you'd want lugnut covers in the first place, but you'd need a urethane release agent and I wouldn't use wood if I were doing the job.
 

yhprum

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You might want to paint the plug and smooth it by filling and sanding so the plasicote doesnt have anything to grab onto. Then after the paint has dried and its ready just wax it really well with car wax.
 

rockchucker

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Not sure why you'd want lugnut covers in the first place...

So the Studs don't rust the Lug Nuts onto them in wet weather.


I would use Allthread the same pitch as the Stud or a Wheel Stud itself. Thread it through the Lug Nut the same length that it sticks out after installed on the car. Coat the threads in Bees Wax until they are smooth. I would do the same with the outer edges of the Lugs.

For the release I would set the entire unit in 180°-200° Water for a bit then it should release and slip right off. If it doesn't stay on the Lug then use less Bees Wax on the Threads of the Stud to get a better bite.
 

CAOS

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Land of Living Skies, Canada
Any wax with a high Carnauba content should do, it works great as a release agent when working with fiberglass. Buff it onto anything being coated with a few coats.

Hope this helps.
 

smschriefer

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I see your plan, but I think you are going about it wrong. You might want to think about the possibility of water seeping past the Plasti-Dip and causing corrosion that you won't be able to see until it is too late. Why not go with sealing wax, or dare I say... hot glue? Nice thing with hot glue is you can easily replace it as needed and it will seal water tight.
 

srmofo

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hot glue probably wont work because your wheels can get incredible hot. add centrifugal force to that and the glue is gone.

might I suggest better lugnuts that have a cap on the end.....

if that still doesnt work for substitute pvc fpr the wooden dowel. That at least gives you a chance to get the plastidip off
 
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smschriefer

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Good point on the heat. How about the spray Plasti-cote? At least then it should be water tight. Just requires a bit of prep and even coats. Custom to each bolt. From what I understand from others they routinely use it to change wheel colors as it peels off easily.
 

kbs2244

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Centrifugal force isn't much of an issue this close to the center of the circle.
I have used duct tape to hold a back up key centered in a hubcap for over 15 years without problems.
It spins fast, but if centered, there is no strain.
 

diesel research

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gulf coast, TEXAS
I have been using a "metal working" wax, that once the solvents flash off, it doesn't reflow until something like 250*. Stuff loves to soak into existing rust and am planning to experiment on it's function as a penetrant as well.

Intended use according to the label is rust prevention on bare metal to be stored a long time. Kind of a solidifying cosmoline of sorts.
 
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nhmercracer

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Leesburg, FL
^^^ LOL.^^^

I have tried the threaded rod. Darned near impossible to remove. I am going to try a wood plug, filled, sanded, and painted. Along with the nut, this will work, and produce a well fitting cover. Eventually I'll get a photo up.
 

adam728

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Michigan
I suggested anti-sieze as a rust preventative, not a plasti-dip release agent. ;)

Yup. Dad did some work on one of his trailers a few weeks ago. To the best of our knowledge the last time the wheels were off was 2004 when I did some maintanance on the thing, and used anti-seize on the lugs. Whole trailer is a ball of rust, but all the lug nuts came right off he says.
 
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