i was wondering if anyone has had a morton polebarn built recently, i have been getting estimates on a 36x72x14 6/12 roof pitch they look like greatquality but lots of money interior packagelooks good too any thoughts would be appreciated thanks terry
morton building
- Thread starter TRWTOW
- Start date
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I had one put up about a year ago.
When I first got the quote for the building I almost fell over. After comparing the quality of thier building to all the others that I saw, and how well they hold up over the years, we bit the bullet and had one put up. The quality of that building is first rate and I haven't shown it to one person who wasn't blown away by how well the building looks.
I went for thermax insulation just to keep the moisture down in the building since I have no thoughs on heating all of that space.
Here is a link to my Morton build thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50523&highlight=morton
When I first got the quote for the building I almost fell over. After comparing the quality of thier building to all the others that I saw, and how well they hold up over the years, we bit the bullet and had one put up. The quality of that building is first rate and I haven't shown it to one person who wasn't blown away by how well the building looks.
I went for thermax insulation just to keep the moisture down in the building since I have no thoughs on heating all of that space.
Here is a link to my Morton build thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50523&highlight=morton
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ezover
Well-known member
let me start with, i have no experience with them.
i would recommend doing some goggle research. a year or so ago i came across
some blogs?/maybe was on a forum with some really bad reviews and a lawsuit with them.
if i recall, the issues were with the contractors that installed the building and morton not standing behind the workmanship.
take my comment with a grain of salt, i cant find a link to the article atm.
i would recommend doing some goggle research. a year or so ago i came across
some blogs?/maybe was on a forum with some really bad reviews and a lawsuit with them.
if i recall, the issues were with the contractors that installed the building and morton not standing behind the workmanship.
take my comment with a grain of salt, i cant find a link to the article atm.
i wouldnt read into any lawsuits. as far as pole barns go, morton is the best. i couldnt afford one so i went with cleary, also very nice. it all depends upon the construction crew that does the work. ask around in your area and talk to real customers.
also, depending on how handy you are, you can save some labor and do some of the interior work yourself. i had my crew install the metal sheeting on the ceiling, but left all the materials to do the walls myself, saving $4000 in labor.
also, depending on how handy you are, you can save some labor and do some of the interior work yourself. i had my crew install the metal sheeting on the ceiling, but left all the materials to do the walls myself, saving $4000 in labor.
Have had a large Mortion for about 5 years, absolute love the building and quality. Have had two different contractor friends comment that can't believe how straight and square it is compared to other buildings they have seen. Doing most of my own interior work to save money.
I live in a town where they have a mfg plant. Ive had several friends work for them since high school. I don't personaly have a Morton, but I have several neighbors have there bldgs.
I would put them in a class of the best built metal bldg, they are expensive, but have a very good warranty. I know they have the building process down to a fine science, and the crews can flat put a bldg up as quick as possible.
Ive been out to the plant and watch them build their own trusses, its all computer program with very little scrap.
I would personaly own one but I can't afford it, but if I could they would be the first people I would call. Just my opinion, but do your own investigating, and check the BBB. I'm sure you can find some customers around and stop and ask them in person if they like the company etc.
I would put them in a class of the best built metal bldg, they are expensive, but have a very good warranty. I know they have the building process down to a fine science, and the crews can flat put a bldg up as quick as possible.
Ive been out to the plant and watch them build their own trusses, its all computer program with very little scrap.
I would personaly own one but I can't afford it, but if I could they would be the first people I would call. Just my opinion, but do your own investigating, and check the BBB. I'm sure you can find some customers around and stop and ask them in person if they like the company etc.
Scout Driver
Well-known member
My reply will re-state what others have already said. A few years back, I had a Morton building put up. The quality is top-notch. Morton uses their own construction crews to erect the buildings, not an outside contracter.
On the farm, we have had Morton Buildings for over 30 years. They hold up very well. In our area in the winter of '96-'97, many pole buildings caved in from snowload. None of them were Mortons. A couple people had some damage to their Mortons, but their best-in-class warranty covered the damage and repairs were made.
Bottom line is: I recommend Morton.
Scott
On the farm, we have had Morton Buildings for over 30 years. They hold up very well. In our area in the winter of '96-'97, many pole buildings caved in from snowload. None of them were Mortons. A couple people had some damage to their Mortons, but their best-in-class warranty covered the damage and repairs were made.
Bottom line is: I recommend Morton.
Scott
1320stang
Well-known member
My dad had a couple of Morton Buildings put up for his business in the early 80's. He no longer has the business, or the buildings, but they're still standing and looking good. One was a 60x120x18 no insulation and the other was a 40x60x14 with offices and a bathroom, all insulated and a fully finished metal interior, ceiling and all.
If I could swing it, that would be who I'd get to build mine.
If I could swing it, that would be who I'd get to build mine.
Scout Driver
Well-known member
dooger54
Member
I had a 48' x '72 Morton building erected in 2005. I live about 30 miles from Morton, IL, which is their home office. Around here, there are a lot of Morton buildings. Quality is second to none, I would recommend them in a heartbeat. Six years later and the building still looks great, never any problems.
They even came out last year to inspect it to see how it was holding up according to their standards. Go for it, you will not be sorry.
They even came out last year to inspect it to see how it was holding up according to their standards. Go for it, you will not be sorry.
Carl B
Well-known member
Since everyone seemed to mention - PRICE - what do the Morton Buildings Cost? If a steel frame building that is 40 X 60 ft will run say $35K unfinished inside - what would the Morton cost?
bookman51
Well-known member
I checked into Morton. Probably the best of the pole barns but the price is also the highest. I wanted a 40 x 72 and they priced it at over $60,000 as a turn key operation--that is lights and wiring. I looked at Cleary, Astro, Wickes, and a few others, including Menards. I went with Wickes. They key was the salesperson (older long time fellow--now passed on) and the construction crew. I got the building up for a shade over $40,000, including 40x40 cement slab in shop part, full ceiling insulation, and insulation in the shop part. It is also 15 side walls and roll up doors at both ends (and eaves, gutters, and cupola--all adds up). Probably another $3,000 for electricity in it, not including lights and heat. I still do not have lights and heat in it. However, when all said and done, I think I will have saved between $10,000 and $15,000 over the Morton. It has been up about four and a half years and no problems. Morton is probably more consistent regarding construction, etc., but others can be cheaper and just as good if good salesperson and good crew. I was probably least impressed with Cleary, but that was because of the salesman. They have a plant nearby. Astro, Cleary, and Wickes were pretty close in price. Part of the reason for Morton being higher (but only part) is they wanted to sell me the complete package. Somethings I could do myself or find a cheaper electrician, etc.
Bookman
Bookman
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
For comparrison, I paid $45k for my 30'x52' building a little over a year ago.
The porch probably added around $5 to the price.
My concrete was $15k but a got 6' 4500 psi with steel and fiber reinforcement inside as well as the driveway walkway and patio.
Due to the economy Morton was running a special, perhaps they still are. They also offered a cash discount.
Chris
The porch probably added around $5 to the price.
My concrete was $15k but a got 6' 4500 psi with steel and fiber reinforcement inside as well as the driveway walkway and patio.
Due to the economy Morton was running a special, perhaps they still are. They also offered a cash discount.
Chris
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swvega
Well-known member
I had a 30x60 put up in 2007 $32,000 finished inside and floor myself and wiring. set up for street rod body shop. Got about 60-65,000 in it but well built building.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Wow! That is going to be a big building!
Looks good.
Chris
Looks good.
Chris
Nighttrain
Well-known member
That's going to be nice. I would see how much rain gutters will be. They may be cheaper durin the time of build then afterwards. From all the Morton builds I have seen you will not be disapointed/
swvega
Well-known member
I had rain gutters put on mine when it went up and wouldn't be with out them
I don't have a Morton, but I have never heard anything bad about Morton bldg.
yes there included i also got the interior package it will be built in july ill post lots of piks along the way
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Cant wait to see your build thread!
Once your print package comes in and your building permit is approved you have to start ******* with site prep!
Im sure you were told about being "High and Dry" by the morton Rep. I had to bring soil and recycled concrete in to raise the elevation a foot or so to ensure a dry building.
Chris
Once your print package comes in and your building permit is approved you have to start ******* with site prep!
Im sure you were told about being "High and Dry" by the morton Rep. I had to bring soil and recycled concrete in to raise the elevation a foot or so to ensure a dry building.
Chris
dreamingmuscle
Well-known member
The builder I'm going to have build mine. Said he wishes he could get on as a builder for them. As the quality of material and design is second to none. I've seen his work and it's not shabby.
I'd go with Morton if I had your money.
I'd go with Morton if I had your money.
David79z28
Well-known member
I've heard nothing but good things about Morton and Mueller..
I wish I had used one of them.
Would have avoided ALOT of trouble!!!
I wish I had used one of them.
Would have avoided ALOT of trouble!!!
permits are here driveway next couple weeks building goin up end of june. calling for concrete bids today. is it worth putting in radiant floor heat or just goin with overhead tube. also thinkin floor drain could be nice.
RTcat
Well-known member
TRWTOW,
Congrats on your pole shed build. In 2005 I had Cleary 50x72x14 put up. I'd looked at Morton but couldn't justify the cost for just a storage/machinery shed.
As soon as things dry up here, work starts on a 32x50x10 dedicated workshop (boxed trusses on one end for a hoist). Shop will have a wall separating the woodworking area (32x20) from the mechanical area (32x30) All along I'd planned on putting in at least the tubes for infloor radiant heat. Figured until I'm retired and can spend more time out there, I'd just run a couple hanging garage heaters. That was until I spoke with one HVAC company who suggested infrared tubes. Unless someone has good thoughts otherwise, I'm scrapping the infloor tubes/heat and going with a couple of these
http://www.calcana.com/industrial-heaters/industrial-heaters.htm
Im getting an SR40 20' put in the woodworking portion and an SR50 20' put in the mechanical area installed for under 5K.
Pros for me are: takes up no floor/wall space (no boiler, manifolds, etc.), cheaper to install upfront, same concept as infloor heat (objects are warm), I don't have to worry about where I drill the floor for the hoist or future floor needs, and finally, I'll have much quicker recovery time for when I raise/lower the heat between the times I'm in the shop and not in the shop. Im' a good dozen years a way from being able to spend "days" out there
While I won't have running water to this shop, I am putting in a couple floor drains for the occasoional snow melt on an emergency fix and to drain the compressor. We put floor drains in the attached garage and I wouldn't be without them
I did not put any floor drains in our cleary shed.Good luck and enjoy your build!
diamondave
Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 6
Whew... Im having my Morton building put up in June, good to hear "good" thing about them rather then "bad". Im going with a 50X120X18 with an attached 30X30X16 office/gameroom.
The concrete slab is already laid for the shop, office and entrance slabs are on hold cause of rain... its not raining today but no one is here LOL! I got something called FibreCement I was told this was stronger and less likey to crack, though my floors are heated.
My shop is going run over 350K.. not including electrical and plumbing.
The concrete slab is already laid for the shop, office and entrance slabs are on hold cause of rain... its not raining today but no one is here LOL! I got something called FibreCement I was told this was stronger and less likey to crack, though my floors are heated.
My shop is going run over 350K.. not including electrical and plumbing.
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
You put the slab in before the pole barn is built???
: The bottom of my walls were the forms for the concrete.
Chris
GuerrillaCycles
Well-known member
My experience (so far): I recently received an offer I could not refuse. I am now the owner of a pre-loved Morton Pole Barn. I'm in the process of dismantling and moving it to my property, expect a build diary to begin as soon as I break ground on the resurrection.
When I first looked at the building, it looked to be in fine shape, I figured it must be a few years old, but it should last several more years. The PO, was not the OO, and could not give me any history on the building.
Fast forward a few days to me beginning to remove the electrical box. I was shocked (figuratively) to find the electricians note from installation, in 1991. So this 20 year old building had stood the test of time, and frankly, was giving me fits trying to take it down. They are MOST DEFINITELY built to last. I'm excited to get it put back up on my property and back to good use.
My opinion: you will not be disappointed by your Morton. Good luck, and Happy Building!
When I first looked at the building, it looked to be in fine shape, I figured it must be a few years old, but it should last several more years. The PO, was not the OO, and could not give me any history on the building.
Fast forward a few days to me beginning to remove the electrical box. I was shocked (figuratively) to find the electricians note from installation, in 1991. So this 20 year old building had stood the test of time, and frankly, was giving me fits trying to take it down. They are MOST DEFINITELY built to last. I'm excited to get it put back up on my property and back to good use.
My opinion: you will not be disappointed by your Morton. Good luck, and Happy Building!
diamondave
Member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 6
Opps my badYou put the slab in before the pole barn is built???
The bottom of my walls were the forms for the concrete.
Chris
Foundation was put in first then the floor the building will be attached to the foundation.. Office is just the foundation (Cement) no floor yet, My walls will not be the foundation on this project (Morton has came out several times to see the progress... he thinks Im doing a great job... but I needed this building done yesturday!). The wall between the shop and office will be cinderblocked and I will have a small storm shelter built in there, its actually the bathroom/furnace/water heater room.
Today they dug a hole for the septic system.
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Sureshot
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a Goodon 42x60x16 with 24x24x13 addtion.
I went with the floor heat and love it. I would look into the solar water panels to supply the heat as the thermal mass of the concrete takes along time to heat or cool.
One of the things I did but would do more of is put some plastic 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 water line thru the cement so you can fish air,water,ethernet etc in the future without running surface lines all over. I would also put some sleeves thru the concrete so in the future you can dig under the edge to run more underground lines etc. It gives you lots of options.
I did a floor drain out to a septic tank on the original 42x60 but ran the sewer line out the opposite side of the building as well and gave us many more options on locating the addition.
Pipe and wire is cheap to do right away and almost impossible to do after the fact.
I also cemented in a 4 1/2 pipe collar so I can screw attachments into the floor. I currently use it for a large pipe vise and metal bender.
I put bullards beside the overhead doors and have been thinking of welding reciever hitches to them to "attach" jigs etc. I like to weld out side to keep the smoke and mess outside.
If you put floor heat take a bunch of pics of your pipe layout along walls,corners etc so you know where the line are(caution of course).
I waited a year before putting in the floor so I could spend more on it and get what I want as it is a one time deal. I installed the boiler for the floor heat 8' up and hung a rad and fan under it to heat the building for the first winter.
I would put some sort of roof over your walk in door on the sidewall. All the snow from the roof will fall in front and block the door shut or you will walk out and shut the door and trigger an avalanche of snow or ice and that can be alot with that roof size. Or have the door open in.
I also ran extra wires in large size for exta welder plugs etc and just left the 8 or 10 gauge out the wall where the work benches were to be and ran 12 gauge and left them out 8 feet up. Over the years I used all the "extra" wires for a wall mounted compressor,lathe,RV plug and mill/drill. I also ran wires from the panel into the attic to boxes for future lights,ceiling fans,roof mount trouble lights or cord reel. I ran all the wires myself at night when the crew left and they drilled 1 inch holes at the post and fed the wire thru the tin so I could put surface mount boxes.
Sorry for the long post. I have been in this building ten years and we are looking to relocate so my mind has been swirling with what I will add to the next one.
I went with the floor heat and love it. I would look into the solar water panels to supply the heat as the thermal mass of the concrete takes along time to heat or cool.
One of the things I did but would do more of is put some plastic 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 water line thru the cement so you can fish air,water,ethernet etc in the future without running surface lines all over. I would also put some sleeves thru the concrete so in the future you can dig under the edge to run more underground lines etc. It gives you lots of options.
I did a floor drain out to a septic tank on the original 42x60 but ran the sewer line out the opposite side of the building as well and gave us many more options on locating the addition.
Pipe and wire is cheap to do right away and almost impossible to do after the fact.
I also cemented in a 4 1/2 pipe collar so I can screw attachments into the floor. I currently use it for a large pipe vise and metal bender.
I put bullards beside the overhead doors and have been thinking of welding reciever hitches to them to "attach" jigs etc. I like to weld out side to keep the smoke and mess outside.
If you put floor heat take a bunch of pics of your pipe layout along walls,corners etc so you know where the line are(caution of course).
I waited a year before putting in the floor so I could spend more on it and get what I want as it is a one time deal. I installed the boiler for the floor heat 8' up and hung a rad and fan under it to heat the building for the first winter.
I would put some sort of roof over your walk in door on the sidewall. All the snow from the roof will fall in front and block the door shut or you will walk out and shut the door and trigger an avalanche of snow or ice and that can be alot with that roof size. Or have the door open in.
I also ran extra wires in large size for exta welder plugs etc and just left the 8 or 10 gauge out the wall where the work benches were to be and ran 12 gauge and left them out 8 feet up. Over the years I used all the "extra" wires for a wall mounted compressor,lathe,RV plug and mill/drill. I also ran wires from the panel into the attic to boxes for future lights,ceiling fans,roof mount trouble lights or cord reel. I ran all the wires myself at night when the crew left and they drilled 1 inch holes at the post and fed the wire thru the tin so I could put surface mount boxes.
Sorry for the long post. I have been in this building ten years and we are looking to relocate so my mind has been swirling with what I will add to the next one.
TRWTOW, maybe I can help. Should looking great when it's done.
Link to TRWTOW build in the Gallery. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107847
Link to TRWTOW build in the Gallery. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107847
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santagary
Well-known member
I used Cleary also for our 80 x 100 x 14 with three sheds attached....great crews and great price.
By the way my Avatar is not the Cleary!