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Most common socket & wrench sizes for portable box?

iroc409

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I have been going through stuff lately and re-organizing tools and my portable box. I have an older steel Craftsman box I picked up for $5 a couple years back from a swap meet. I've been swapping out the HF stuff for overflow Craftsman (etc) in it, and I have probably too many wrenches and sockets for the box. I'm trying to keep the weight reasonable, and include a good basic setup.

What are the most common sizes for wrenches and sockets, both SAE and metric, for a portable box? I was thinking 10-18MM, maybe 1/4" to 3/4" SAE, and maybe toss in one of my larger crescent wrenches for anything bigger.

I have an extra Craftsman RP wrench set, but it goes up to 1-1/8" or something, which I rarely use even at the house.
 
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evildky

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Depends on what you are working on. 10-19 covers most of your metric needs most of the time. I rarely use SAE at all.
 
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iroc409

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Probably mostly vehicles, but it could be about anything. I don't own any tractors or anything, but have helped with certain projects. Maybe a mower, pull stuff from a junk yard.

For vehicles, metric and SAE. Our main vehicle is metric, but I have a '50 pickup I'm working on, and actually tore one completely apart with my portable box--but I think I only used 3 sizes of sockets/wrenches.
 

CarsonConcepts

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For sockets you probably want to in include 8mm and possibly 7mm. At least for the cars I normally work on in the family, 8 is common for small stuff under the hood, and 7 for interior bolts.

~ Carson
 
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iroc409

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I was thinking I had some 1/4" stuff on the truck, but I think the smallest I ran into was 3/8". 10MM is the smallest I really ran into on previous vehicles of recent times, but I haven't had to wrench much on our latest. A 10, 12 & 14MM would have probably done anything I needed short of a lug wrench on my Tacoma.

I can appreciate wanting to include everything, but I'm not looking to lug around an 80-lb track box. The VAST majority of work I do is out of my main box.
 
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iroc409

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Yeah, I definitely get that, and think there's a really good place for a larger box. This box lives under my work bench though. I just have a couple items in the vehicle. It has only traveled to work on my grandparents' acreage, where it sees some mixed use, and tearing down the old truck.

The original part of the set was an older Companion tool set I bought years ago from Sears for $30 to haul in the back of the Jeep. Used it on a road trip to replace a few fuel injectors, and it had a lot less stuff than I have in the box now.
 

lauver

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Iroc409,

I'm not a fanboy of portable boxes. They just seem to want to be filled up and heavy as hell. Plus, they are usually hard to keep organized and hard to find the tool you are looking for.

I prefer tool rolls because they are lighter, easy to carry, and easy to organize. I have one tool roll in each of my vehicles (all Toyota). I know the common fastener sizes in each of these vehicles so it's easy for me to eliminate unnecessary sizes. In my case I can eliminate 11mm, 16mm, and 18mm sockets and wrenches because I never need them.

Your situation may be different than mine, so I would suggest the following general rules:

SAE: 3/8" - 3/4" will generally cover the waterfront

METRIC: 10mm-19mm will generally cover the waterfront

If need or want to carry both Metric & SAE , use two tool rolls one for each platform. Yes, you will be duplicating screwdrivers and pliers, but each tool roll will weigh 5lbs or less.

Here's another way to eliminate clutter & weight; get a good 4-in-1 screwdriver. It covers the 4 most common screw fastener sizes in one tool and has replacable bits.

Pliers-- keep it simple: 6" needle nose, 6" side cutter, 10" groove-joint plier, and a 6" needle nose locking plier (think clamp). If your needle nose has a wire cutter feature, you can eliminate the side cutter.

6V/12V test light with probe-- these weigh almost nothing, take up little space, and are invaluable when you run into wiring/lighting problems.

Good luck...
 
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iroc409

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Thanks for the help, all! This is partly just an overflow box, but it does come in handy on the rare occasions I actually need a portable box. I think you've helped me sort it out!


I didn't think about the test light, that's a good idea!

I have thought about getting a tool roll for the car. Really, I am almost set with pliers, multi screwdriver, tape measure and maybe a crescent wrench. Most of the time if I am looking to fix something really simple.

I've had one vehicle actually rescued from the road. My '68 GMC I had years ago locked up the 3-speed late one night a few miles from home. I had it on a test drive and didn't grab any tools, and a nearby farmer fixed me up with a pair of Channellocks. The previous owner converted it to a floor shift, and told me the wrong shift pattern. I ended up having to replace the transmission.

For the most part, 9 times out of 10 I'm just going to haul it home. Most of the repairs, other than that trans issue, have been significant enough I wouldn't be fixing them on the side of the road. Like, complete engine failure, rebuilt carb & distributor, catastrophic brake failure, fire. To be fair, the fire could have been saved by a simple fix I had the part in the passenger seat for, but had zero tools (and only needed a screwdriver and pliers for!).
 

CJM8515

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Having done roadwork for eons, you need the following tools:

MM:
7-19mm. Why 7mm.. Well some interior fasteners are 7mm.. Most of the time the set comes with a 6mm socket anyways so might as well keep it. It depends on the vehicle but you may use any or all of that size range. I prefer a set of both shallow and deep 1/4 and 3/8.

SAE: 3/8, 1/2, there is nothing on a modern car really thats SAE. I only say to grab those sizes as often times some non OEM replacement parts use SAE.

You also want a 16oz hammer (I prefer a ballpeen), screwdrivers, a large flathead and a 12" prybar. 10" Channel locks, both flat and curved jaw vise grips (8-10" should do it), You may also want some allen keys and or sockets and some torx sockets as well.

My truckbox is a 20" older CMan metal box and must weigh 25lbs. At one time or another I have used every tool in there and can do most basic jobs with that set.
 

CJM8515

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Er, 1/4 for hose clamps.

Thats what a flathead is for lol.

I carry a 6 in one screwdriver, one end is 1/4" of course the other I recall is smaller IDK what size. That tool takes off hose clamps :)
 

malykaii

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Thats what a flathead is for lol.

I carry a 6 in one screwdriver, one end is 1/4" of course the other I recall is smaller IDK what size. That tool takes off hose clamps :)

In all my years as a mechanic, I'll guesstimate that only works 60% of the time. For a 350 Chevy it's one thing. Say the previous car owner had a shop service the car. Mechanic changes a hose and installs it while the car is on a lift. Now your on the side of the road and have to reach it from up top as the car has that annoying dust sheild.

For something so small and light it sure can be worth a lot in situations.
 

Rarified27

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The challenge here seems to be that the portable box you're developing is exclusive to auto maintenance.

My three vehicles have a more general purpose bag in them that includes enough to get by in a pinch, or at least to get me where there are better tools. Most often, I find myself using them to help someone else out when they don't have a tool or don't know enough to fix the problem.

How many emergency repairs that just couldn't wait have involved removing interior panel fasteners?
 

shahaodou

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I needed short of a lug wrench on my Tacoma.
6ce2.jpg
 

theoldwizard1

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A couple of years ago, I put together a "travel" tool box. I started with a plastic Craftsman box with the goal of being able to take as many tools as I could, with the minimal amount or organization. Some of what is in there is a full set of 1/4", standard depth, SAE and metric sockets; a full set of 3/8", standard depth AND deep, SAE and metric sockets; a full set of SAE and metric combination wrenches.

For "organization", I bought some 4"x12", 4 mil zipper lock bags. All the 3/8" in one bag, combination wrenches in another (put a piece of electrical tape on the metric wrenches), screwdrivers in another, etc. Most "casual" shade tree mechanics would find it well equipped.

The box is so heavy, I don't trust the latches, so I bought some 1" nylon webbing with adjustable closures.
 

that one guy

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I bought a craftsman socket set and threw all the duplicates into my car bag.
Like others have said, 10-17 +19mm deep and 3/8" to 3/4" generally cover most car needs. I also keep a pair of wire strippers, multimeter, pliers, an adjustable wrench, zip ties (lots of zip ties!), jumper cables, brake clean, latex gloves and a flashlight in the bag.
 

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Bessy

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zip ties (lots of zip ties!), jumper cables...and a flashlight in the bag.

Sounds like a number of repairs I have done for friends/strangers! I recall walking out to the parking lot at school to go for lunch with a good friend of mine. half her rear quarter panel was missing. I heard it rubbing on the tire, made her come back to my place so I could "fix" it (she was less than concerned). I come out with a half dozen zip ties (because there was little else I could do) and tied the sh*t out of what was left of the bumper/wheel well. It wasn't much, but I probably saved her from wearing a hole in the side wall of her tire and having a blowout on the QEW.

Anecdote over... As for sockets/wrenches - I seldom have to do much work on my car (knock on wood) on the side of the road, however my overflow/carry around tools have quite the selection (I work in a harbour/park). my socket set consists of an el-cheapo 3/8 set with probably 20 pieces SAE and Metric, it gets me through most jobs, I also carry duplicate 3/8 to 9/16 + 3/4" for those times you can't get a socket on a fastener (happens a lot when faced with entry gate housings and stringer bolts on docks.) Metric stuff I could probably not bother carrying but I do have a full 13pc (I think) set of mms from about 7 to 22 I think (they don't get used much).

Jumpers stay in the trunk of the car (don't even keep them in the shop), and one of those 9led flashlights can be found basically everywhere you look (glovebox, tool bag, top compartment of the tool chest(s)).
 

joel63

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Having done roadwork for eons, you need the following tools:

MM:
7-19mm. Why 7mm.. Well some interior fasteners are 7mm.. Most of the time the set comes with a 6mm socket anyways so might as well keep it. It depends on the vehicle but you may use any or all of that size range. I prefer a set of both shallow and deep 1/4 and 3/8.

SAE: 3/8, 1/2, there is nothing on a modern car really thats SAE. I only say to grab those sizes as often times some non OEM replacement parts use SAE.

You also want a 16oz hammer (I prefer a ballpeen), screwdrivers, a large flathead and a 12" prybar. 10" Channel locks, both flat and curved jaw vise grips (8-10" should do it), You may also want some allen keys and or sockets and some torx sockets as well.

My truckbox is a 20" older CMan metal box and must weigh 25lbs. At one time or another I have used every tool in there and can do most basic jobs with that set.

This sounds like a good mixture. :thumbup:

I would include a multimeter of some kind.
 
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Dimitri

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8-10-13-17-19 euro
8-10-12-14-17-19 japan

I'd go

7-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-17-19

To cover the ANSI/ISO specific bolts, by including the 15mm and 16mm. I've never seen a DIN fastener with the 11mm head though personally.

If room permits, then 21-22-24-27

Which for automotive applications covers a lot of the sensors, plus seat belt mounting nuts, and oil caps.

Dimitri
 
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iroc409

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The challenge here seems to be that the portable box you're developing is exclusive to auto maintenance.

It's not exclusive, but heavily weighed that way. I have needed a hack saw on multiple occasions, and need to pick one up for the kit. I've done a few other things, and would leave it open to about anything. I have a small tool bag for around the house projects, though.

How many emergency repairs that just couldn't wait have involved removing interior panel fasteners?

Not very many, but I guess it could happen.

For "organization", I bought some 4"x12", 4 mil zipper lock bags. All the 3/8" in one bag, combination wrenches in another (put a piece of electrical tape on the metric wrenches), screwdrivers in another, etc. Most "casual" shade tree mechanics would find it well equipped.

That's a slick idea. I've thought about using tool rolls, but they take up a lot of space. I don't really want everything flopping around if I can avoid it. It works, but is annoying.


I would include a multimeter of some kind.

Yeah, I was thinking about that. I have a couple of those free HF ones, that are surprisingly accurate--keep up with my old Craftsman meter, anyway.
 

Jure

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I'd go

7-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-17-19

To cover the ANSI/ISO specific bolts, by including the 15mm and 16mm. I've never seen a DIN fastener with the 11mm head though personally.

If room permits, then 21-22-24-27

Which for automotive applications covers a lot of the sensors, plus seat belt mounting nuts, and oil caps.

Dimitri

dealing with 11 mm on a daily base :D
 

Tim37

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A while back I got a metric/sae socket and wrench set I put it in my truck then cleaned all the wrenches and sockets out of my small box and use it for pliers screw drivers and such I am likeing this system better its much more organized and a lot of the time I only need one box so its not that much trouble to dig out.
 

Jure

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this is what i got in my portable box which is in my 4x4 truck,we hunt big game in the middle of nowhere,no way a tow truck can come there lol so my box is pretty much full.

6-22 mm combo wrenches
10-19 mm double box wrenches (offset)
10-19 open end wrenches
10 mm and 13 ratcheting wrenches
10-13mm flare nut wrench

int (bent nose),ext ring pliers
side cutters
combination pliers
adjustable pliers
wire strippers
round nose pliers
scissors
crimping pliers

screwdriver set (full) + 4 pc stubby and ratcheting
hex keys set
spoke wrench
2x hammers
chisel
center punch
syringe
oil
large file
3x small files
piston blocker
18" breaker bar 1/2
3x pack of zip ties
8" adj wrench
magnet puller
flex magnet
full 1/4 socket set
1/4 flex head ratchet
level
measuring tape
varnier caliper
insulation tapes
magnetiser/demagnetiser
utility knife
circuit testers
geometry set
10-19 mm shallow socket set 3/8 drive + extensions and ratchet
12,21,24 and 32 mm 1/2 sockets
19,21 mm 3/8 drive spark plug sockets
2x markers
gasket scraper
50 cm pry bar
feeler gauge
thread gauge
grease
wd40
gasket papers
tweezers
loctite 243

2rqbl3a.png
 

M-EGT

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. I've never seen a DIN fastener with the 11mm head though personally.

True, but the only time I've used 11mm was on a battery terminal clamp. So I would have that handy (mostly for helping out someone else)
 

Indexmill

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Ah, you need the sizes for the things you will work on...

Portable boxes are always a compromise; aim for what you expect to work on.
 

malykaii

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Ah, you need the sizes for the things you will work on...

Portable boxes are always a compromise; aim for what you expect to work on.

Exactly. Like on my ford I need 13 and 15mm. My Mitsu 12, 14 and 17mm. If it wasn't for both sharing 8, 10 and 19, I could split a tool set in half between the two.

Tailor to your use. Also don't forgot sae sized like 3/8 as you never know what the previous owner modifies using hardware store supplies.
 

malykaii

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I'm surprised at the amount of resistance to sizes below 10mm and 3/8.

7mm does interior (roadside electrical) and other engine goodies. Ford coils for example.

1/4 for hose clamps and self tappers.

5/16 for universal/home depot repairs and 8mm for engine goodies like throttle bodies, solenoid, you name it. It's the same size, pick one.

So for three sockets that combines weigh less than a lighter (which you should have) I don't understand the resistance.
 

drink

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I have been going through stuff lately and re-organizing tools and my portable box. I have an older steel Craftsman box I picked up for $5 a couple years back from a swap meet. I've been swapping out the HF stuff for overflow Craftsman (etc) in it, and I have probably too many wrenches and sockets for the box. I'm trying to keep the weight reasonable, and include a good basic setup.

What are the most common sizes for wrenches and sockets, both SAE and metric, for a portable box? I was thinking 10-18MM, maybe 1/4" to 3/4" SAE, and maybe toss in one of my larger crescent wrenches for anything bigger.

I have an extra Craftsman RP wrench set, but it goes up to 1-1/8" or something, which I rarely use even at the house.

Now this is a subject I can relate with. At times I really enjoy set building with portable tool boxes. Knowing what to put in the box and being able to pick it up can be a real challenge.

To begin with it sounds like you have a good idea on what to include in your mobile set. However, I would add some sockets in both 3/8" and 1/4" drive sizes to include the following in both standard & deep socket sizes.

1/4" drive SAE - 3/16" - 9/16"
1/4" drive MET - 4mm - 14mm
3/8" drive SAE - 3/8" - 7/8"
3/8" drive MET - 8mm-19mm

SAE Combination Wrenches - 1/4" - 7/8"
MET Combination Wrenches - 8mm - 19mm

Oh, I need to know what size tool box you have. Both set of SAE & MET wrenches can really add some weight.

I have a 16" Craftsman tool box with rails of 1/4" & 3/8" drive deep sockets in SAE and metric. A small set of both standard depth SAE 1/4" & 3/8" drive sockets (3/16" - 7/8") holds the ratchets. Socket accessories were added along with an 8 oz ball pein hammer and chisel. My wrench set runs from 1/4" - 1-1/8" plus an 8" adjustable wrench. A small set of common screwdrivers and pliers was added with a set of SAE hex keys. A lot of the stuff I work on is SAE but I do have the deep metrics in case I need them. A small 12 foot tape measure and a small set of ring pliers was added also.
 

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curliejones

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I know this is an old thread but, in researching the wrench "crossover sizes", I came across it. Others may find this thread too so I thought I'd include this info: wrench sizes where the difference between metric and SAE is negligible;
- category A) (0 or almost); 5/16" and 8mm, 7/16 and 11mm, 5/8 and 16mm, 3/4 and 19mm, 15/16 and 24mm.
- category B where the difference is 1/64" metric size smaller is indicated by - and larger indicated by +; 3/8 and 9mm -1/64, 3/8 and 10mm +1/64, 1/2 and 13mm +1/64, 9/16 and 14mm -1/64.
Footnote 1- I have always thought that 14mm and 9/16 were exactly the same size and used them interchangeably. The other sizes indicated here were never used (by me) but mathematically should work. It makes sense that smaller wrenches with 1/64" difference are not as close (percent wise) as wrenches 14mm and up.
Footnote 2- Not all wrench sets are created equal. The manufacturer's tolerances may or may not allow these substitutions. Also the manufacturers of the fasteners being turned come into play.
Footnote 3- I have done considerable construction using hot dipped galvanized bolts that become slightly oversized due to the thickness of the coating. It may be necessary to have wrenches that are 1/64" larger than expected (13mm on a 1/2" bolt head for example) rather than beat on a 1/2" wrench and possibly remove the protective coating).
In summary, a copy of this "crossover" list takes far less room in a portable box than the four wrenches 8, 11, 16, 19 mm. I plan to tape a copy to the inside of my carry box even though I'm carrying the wrenches (sometimes you need two the same size). My 2 cents
 

Parrothead

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I'd go

7-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-17-19

To cover the ANSI/ISO specific bolts, by including the 15mm and 16mm. I've never seen a DIN fastener with the 11mm head though personally.

If room permits, then 21-22-24-27

Which for automotive applications covers a lot of the sensors, plus seat belt mounting nuts, and oil caps.

Dimitri

I wouldn't skip the 18mm, just had to buy one when working on a Nissan at my parents. (Their tools)
 

cherrybomb

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I know this is an old thread but, in researching the wrench "crossover sizes", I came across it. Others may find this thread too so I thought I'd include this info: wrench sizes where the difference between metric and SAE is negligible;
- category A) (0 or almost); 5/16" and 8mm, 7/16 and 11mm, 5/8 and 16mm, 3/4 and 19mm, 15/16 and 24mm.
- category B where the difference is 1/64" metric size smaller is indicated by - and larger indicated by +; 3/8 and 9mm -1/64, 3/8 and 10mm +1/64, 1/2 and 13mm +1/64, 9/16 and 14mm -1/64.
Footnote 1- I have always thought that 14mm and 9/16 were exactly the same size and used them interchangeably. The other sizes indicated here were never used (by me) but mathematically should work. It makes sense that smaller wrenches with 1/64" difference are not as close (percent wise) as wrenches 14mm and up.
Footnote 2- Not all wrench sets are created equal. The manufacturer's tolerances may or may not allow these substitutions. Also the manufacturers of the fasteners being turned come into play.
Footnote 3- I have done considerable construction using hot dipped galvanized bolts that become slightly oversized due to the thickness of the coating. It may be necessary to have wrenches that are 1/64" larger than expected (13mm on a 1/2" bolt head for example) rather than beat on a 1/2" wrench and possibly remove the protective coating).
In summary, a copy of this "crossover" list takes far less room in a portable box than the four wrenches 8, 11, 16, 19 mm. I plan to tape a copy to the inside of my carry box even though I'm carrying the wrenches (sometimes you need two the same size). My 2 cents
I have set up a travel box similar to this,I do situations and try different tools,when I'm near by my shop.See no reason not for this to work.If you take a digital micrometer and compare wrenches its scary close how close to the same they are.
 

thwaller

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I wouldn't skip the 18mm, just had to buy one when working on a Nissan at my parents. (Their tools)

I would also not skip the 11mm. As one person already mentioned, it is used on battery clamps. But it is also used on many brake bleeders, especially for Euro cars if you plan to work on them.
 

jgromada

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Good topic, I am always interested in what an emergency roadside kit might include. I think the assessment of metric socket sizes is spot on.

I have a small variety of random parts and tools that have saved me on some occasions and now I always have those on hand.

1. Hose Bandage tape - i am pretty good about replacing hoses proactively and have only had a problem once and I was sure glad that I had it and was able to continue on my trip. It seals well.
2. Knife - I once ran over a feed bag once on a rural road and somehow it got wrapped around the drive shaft of my BMW. That plastic type bag is very tough and it quickly wrapped around the drive shaft and also attached itself to the hot catalytic converter. I had a knife luckily and was able to cut away the majority of the bag but a bunch of the bag remnants stuck to the converter. You could smell burning plastic for weeks until it all burned off. It smelled awful!
3. Wire hanger wire - a exhaust hanger broke and i was able to pull it up with the wire as a temporary repair.
4. Wire twist tie from bread bag - A zip tie probably would have worked here too . But i had a VW cabrio where the throttle cable pulled off the throttle body. The zip tie worked great to keep the cable back on until i had a more permanent fix.
5. Sheet metal screws - On another roadside mishap a tarp came up (from fast lane of I-95) and hit the fan (on the same BMW btw). The fan shattered at this point and a piece impaled itself into my brand new all aluminum radiator I had installed. I had a large leak that I was able to at least partially block with some sheet metal screws I had on hand. Needed to add some coolant (you do carry spare coolant right??) Managed to nurse the car home and had to replace the fan blade and find someone who could weld aluminum for me.
 
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