Most efficient heating and air conditioning for the shop

[Matt Matt]

I think I've made one of the most efficient healing choices for my shop, but now I'm looking for a decent air conditioning.

My shop is just a standard two car garage (21×22) attached.
My garage doors are insulated R13 with a double seal.
I only have one other cold wall and it's insulated R12.

My winter months I was using electric heat using a 5000 W shop heater, and two 1500 W radiant toasters. Total of 8000 W. I convince the accountant of the home $1500 swap out would be worth it. Our electrical bill jumped $200ish a month for 4 month for the electricity.

I swap them out for an overhead NG radiant tube heater. It was a simple choice of not wanting blowing air. I would've went with the "hot dang" otherwise. So 30,000 BTUs overhead radiant tube heater has worked perfect for the first season. My winters are usually run a +10 to -10F. I keep it at a steady 62F. I ran about a $70 increase for those same 4 months on NG. Enough said.

But here's my dilemma, during the summer, I run a dehumidifier to keep the moisture off the machines, But it just runs all the time.

I would like to add some cooling during our 95°F days and double down with moisture removal. We get high humidity. I will live out this Summer, but I was contemplating window air-conditioner cut through the wall or one of those new two pipe floor air conditioners. I was hoping to take advantage of the fall clearances.

I guess my main question is, where does the condensate go in the two pipe units? I'm not really interested in emptying a bucket. And the other part is I would like to not have it running 24/7, Once it reaches temperature I think it would be ideal for it to shut off. Most window air conditioners don't work like this that I know of.

I guess how do you air conditioning your shop?

 

[Fixin'Stuff]

Read through some of the threads with "mini-split" in the title. I think you'll find a solution there that keeps things cool, keeps the air dry, and sips electricity.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Read through some of the threads with "mini-split" in the title. I think you'll find a solution there that keeps things cool, keeps the air dry, and sips electricity.

This is the big win ! You won't have to turn on the radiant heat tubes until it is below freezing.

 

[Fueler]

^^agree^^

 

[Radix2]

I think I've made one of the most efficient healing choices for my shop, but now I'm looking for a decent air conditioning.

My shop is just a standard two car garage (21×22) attached.
My garage doors are insulated R13 with a double seal.
I only have one other cold wall and it's insulated R12.

My winter months I was using electric heat using a 5000 W shop heater, and two 1500 W radiant toasters. Total of 8000 W. I convince the accountant of the home $1500 swap out would be worth it. Our electrical bill jumped $200ish a month for 4 month for the electricity.

I swap them out for an overhead NG radiant tube heater. It was a simple choice of not wanting blowing air. I would've went with the "hot dang" otherwise. So 30,000 BTUs overhead radiant tube heater has worked perfect for the first season. My winters are usually run a +10 to -10F. I keep it at a steady 62F. I ran about a $70 increase for those same 4 months on NG. Enough said.

But here's my dilemma, during the summer, I run a dehumidifier to keep the moisture off the machines, But it just runs all the time.

I would like to add some cooling during our 95°F days and double down with moisture removal. We get high humidity. I will live out this Summer, but I was contemplating window air-conditioner cut through the wall or one of those new two pipe floor air conditioners. I was hoping to take advantage of the fall clearances.

I guess my main question is, where does the condensate go in the two pipe units? I'm not really interested in emptying a bucket. And the other part is I would like to not have it running 24/7, Once it reaches temperature I think it would be ideal for it to shut off. Most window air conditioners don't work like this that I know of.

I guess how do you air conditioning your shop?

I think pretty much all new window air conditioners have a mode where they shut off at temperature. Usually called eco or Econ mode or something. It's a bit of a trick since with the thermostat right in the unit, it is easy for that spot to be cool before the room is, hence some extended period of cycling.

The minisplit is the class way to go...probably $500-1000 more though.

 

[ducksface]

I did Central air with real vents and intake.
Roof mount unit.
Not as expensive as you'd think.

It's perfect.

 

[bzinsky]

As others have stated, you seem like the perfect candidate for a mini split w/heat pump.

I recommend a 12k/btu mitsu hyper heat
https://www.acwholesalers.com/Mitsu...tId=cat12497&mainCat=&subCat=&trail=40435:Yes

 

[Matt Matt]

Thanks guys, I'm gonna look into that.

 

[schor]

I use a portable unit, it vents to outside and condensation also. I think it's 12000 btu and works fine in my 18x28 shop.