Motive Power Bleeder

[PearlWhiteGT]

I'm looking at purchasing a Motive 0108 Power Bleeder to use on my 2001 Silverado. Replacing the brake lines, hoses, calipers, rotors and pads. Any tips that you guys have when using one of these? Do I need to use Teflon Tape on any fittings? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[White Shadow]

I have one and it works great. Nothing additional needed. I didn't tape anything. Highly recommended.

Just make sure you clean it out really good if you decide to use it with the fluid inside. Some people do it that way and some people use it without fluid inside. I like using it with fluid and I use denatured alcohol to clean it.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

I have one and it works great. Nothing additional needed. I didn't tape anything. Highly recommended.

Just make sure you clean it out really good if you decide to use it with the fluid inside. Some people do it that way and some people use it without fluid inside. I like using it with fluid and I use denatured alcohol to clean it.

Thanks.

 

[71firebird400]

Ditto; works great for me. Also second the recommendation to keep clean with denatured alcohol; only takes a second and it's ready to go for next time. I use this whenever I'm bleeding brakes solo. Get a good catch can for the bleeder end.

 

[kabinenroller]

I have a Motive Bleeder and a vacuum bleeder, both of them sit on the shelf after I started using these: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
One man operation, no muss, no fuss.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

I have a Motive Bleeder and a vacuum bleeder, both of them sit on the shelf after I started using these: http://www.speedbleeder.com/
One man operation, no muss, no fuss.

Don't think I've seen these before.

 

[71firebird400]

Speed bleeders work OK but not great in my experience. Obviously you're dropping $20 or so for four of them, which then goes with the car. If you're only maintaining a car or two that's great but you quickly catch up to the cost of a universal tool.

 

[toyotadriver]

I have one. I like it although I also have a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder system. Both have their places. I don't use it with fluid in it. I just suction out the fluid from the master cylinder as low as I dare, fill it back up with fresh fluid, attach the pressure bleeder, and then pump it up and start bleeding. I release the pressure and add fluid directly to the master cylinder and then pump it back up.

 

[qqzj]

I have one. I like it although I also have a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder system. Both have their places. I don't use it with fluid in it. I just suction out the fluid from the master cylinder as low as I dare, fill it back up with fresh fluid, attach the pressure bleeder, and then pump it up and start bleeding. I release the pressure and add fluid directly to the master cylinder and then pump it back up.

That's what Toyota drivers do.

 

[Oldsmobile]

I usually work alone, without another person around to pump a brake pedal. I did have that compressed air vacuum bleeder, and it worked well enough, I thought. The Motive bleeder is excellent and I wish I had bought one earlier and not bothered with the vacuum bleeder. OP, go ahead and get the Motive; you'll be pleased.

 

[mikester]

I bought one of those from Summit and I didnt like it at all. I couldnt get the cover to seal right on the master. I borrowed a suction bleeder from a friend of mine and it worked really well. It was a Mityvac MV6830. He hardly uses it these days so Ive bled the systems on both of my project cars. To be honest if I was planning on doing it again I would buy one for myself. My buddy lends me stuff, I bring it back cleaner than when I took it and I buy him breakfast or lunch. Its been a good system. LOL

 

[tarmy]

Motive is great…did my 2006 Silverado 3/4 ton just like you are talking about….

make sure you buy the one with the proper GM fitting for the master cylinder. I bought the Honda fitting as well and do wifey’s 2018 Pilot too…

 

[ZX3ST]

I just buy their cap adapters and modify them with a 1/4in quick-connect to my compressor hose. No fluid to clean up and no pumping the canister. Works really well.

 

[Lucid Moments]

I just buy their cap adapters and modify them with a 1/4in quick-connect to my compressor hose. No fluid to clean up and no pumping the canister. Works really well.

That will push the old fluid out well enough, but how do you get fresh fluid in consistently? The motive pumps in new fluid as it pressurizes. Or at least that is how I believe it works.

 

[Specracer]

That will push the old fluid out well enough, but how do you get fresh fluid in consistently?

I use mine dry, I simply keep an eye on the master reservoir level and when it drops close to the bottom, take off the power bleeder cap, and top off the reservoir. Less mess, and less brake fluid exposure to air. Works for me.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

I use mine dry, I simply keep an eye on the master reservoir level and when it drops close to the bottom, take off the power bleeder cap, and top off the reservoir. Less mess, and less brake fluid exposure to air. Works for me.

I didn't realize it could be used dry. I just purchased the Motive last night and should be here tomorrow. Going to try and tackle the job this weekend. Now I'll be stuck trying to decide which method to use, wet or dry.

 

[02chuck]

I have had mine for years. I will pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder (watch for the clutch feed line). Fill the master and just watch it and refill as needed. It holds way to much fluid to use it with the fluid in it.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Why use it dry? Defeats the purpose. If you're not putting fluid in it, you'll save a zillion dollars by just putting a cheap ****** or schrader valve in a spare reservoir cap, and apply pressure with a pump/compressor.

To get the fluid out, just put the unit upside (pump out) down overnight over a tray or whatever you want, and it's empty. Been using mine like this for 15 years.

Definitely do not ever leave brake fluid in it. The check valve in the pump *will* die if it's submerged.

-Ryan

 

[toyotadriver]

That's what Toyota drivers do.

Not sure what point you're trying to make but ok.

 

[toyotadriver]

Why use it dry? Defeats the purpose. If you're not putting fluid in it, you'll save a zillion dollars by just putting a cheap ****** or schrader valve in a spare reservoir cap, and apply pressure with a pump/compressor.

To get the fluid out, just put the unit upside (pump out) down overnight over a tray or whatever you want, and it's empty. Been using mine like this for 15 years.

Definitely do not ever leave brake fluid in it. The check valve in the pump *will* die if it's submerged.

-Ryan

I tried using it with the fluid in it and quickly overfilled the master cylinder and made a mess. Since using it dry, no mess. I'm not sure how you'll save money by pressurizing it with an air compressor but I would not. I pump it up to about 10psi. Overpressurizing it could cause a few problems. Pumping it up to 10psi only takes a 20 seconds or so.

 

[Buckgnarly]

Another dry vote here.

 

[tarmy]

Dry…just watch the master and refill and then repressurize the Motive and pump more thru. That way there is no mess to clean up. Once that fluid is exposed to air…you gotta toss the remainder anyways. Use fresh bottles of new fluid when refilling…

 

[dnschmidt]

There is a similar alternative made in Canada that has vastly superior metal caps that attach to the master cylinder. Toyota in particular has a unique attachment that this company makes a special cap for: https://www.speedibleed.com/. This bleeder uses a tire to provide the pressure so there is no need for a pump or air compressor.

 

[ZX3ST]

That will push the old fluid out well enough, but how do you get fresh fluid in consistently? The motive pumps in new fluid as it pressurizes. Or at least that is how I believe it works.

I just keep an eye on it. When the fluid gets low, I just refill and reapply pressure. Bleeders don't flow fluid quickly enough where it tends to get away from you.

The problem is cleaning the stupid container every time, and the potential mess it makes. Especially if you pull a bonehead move and forget to release the pressure before removing that cap..........

1/4in quick connect threads into their aluminum caps (they call them black label, metal instead of plastic) with no modifications. Then I have a short hose whip I made up with a ball valve and small inline regulator.

 

[ZX3ST]

I tried using it with the fluid in it and quickly overfilled the master cylinder and made a mess. Since using it dry, no mess. I'm not sure how you'll save money by pressurizing it with an air compressor but I would not. I pump it up to about 10psi. Overpressurizing it could cause a few problems. Pumping it up to 10psi only takes a 20 seconds or so.

It's not a money saver, it's a sanity saver. I got tired of pumping up the empty canister every time. A regulator takes care of overpressurizing, and you don't have to worry about running out of pressure while the bleeder is open.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

Does using it wet cause the master cylinder to be overfilled when done with all four brakes? I feel like when done and removing the cap there will be a overfill of fluid but I haven't used mine yet so have no idea. I do plan on using it tomorrow though.

 

[pbon]

There is a trick that sort of works to pull some fluid out of the master and relieve pressure. It is in the instructions. Still ends up over full sometimes but maybe I am not doing it right.

 

[Wiz02]

I also recommend the Motive. Mine is so old that the hoses dry rotted and I had to replace them, pump works fine (probably jinxed it now). I use it wet and clean up afterwards because getting the universal cap to work on newer master cylinders is a pain and once I have it positioned without leaks, I don't want to remove it until the job is done.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I tried using it with the fluid in it and quickly overfilled the master cylinder and made a mess. Since using it dry, no mess. I'm not sure how you'll save money by pressurizing it with an air compressor but I would not. I pump it up to about 10psi. Overpressurizing it could cause a few problems. Pumping it up to 10psi only takes a 20 seconds or so.

You either have a bad seal at the Motive, the seal wasn't seated correctly, or something's odd with your master. I use the Motive whenever I can. My back up is a cap with a ****** on it, and a squeezy pump (used for setting pre-load on turbochargers). That setup cost me really nothing, since it was all parts that I had. Much quicker and easier to pump than an empty Motive. Indeed, more than 10psi is asking for trouble!

Using the Motive as intended is wonderful. Old Volvos have dual circuit brakes, so it's twice the volume to flush through. A "barn find" I brought home took two liters of fluid to get the black nasty out.

Does using it wet cause the master cylinder to be overfilled when done with all four brakes? I feel like when done and removing the cap there will be a overfill of fluid but I haven't used mine yet so have no idea. I do plan on using it tomorrow though.

You simply tilt the Motive far back so that only air can come through the line. Crack a bleeder and let the fluid level come down below the top of the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder and depressurize the Motive.

I started measuring how much fluid I push out of the system by leading the hose from the bleed ******* into a graduated cylinder. This way, if I put, say, a liter of fluid into the motive, I try to get 200-250mL out of each corner of the car. That leaves me with very little residual fluid in the Motive. Then I drain the jug/hose upside down overnight... and store it away the next AM.

-Ryan

 

[HPRifleman]

In the past, I always did the two-man brake bleeding operation with a helper pushing the pedal while I opened and closed each bleeder. A few months ago I bought the Motive bleeder system for use on my 2001 F-350. It worked fantastic. I couldn't believe how fast it worked and I did everything by myself. Just a few minutes at each caliper and I was done. Last week I ordered the adapter for the cast iron master cylinders so I can flush the brakes on my Corvette.

I think the key to using it is getting a good seal on the master cylinder. Newer vehicles, like my Ford truck, have the plastic ones where the Motive adapter is a master cylinder screw-on cap with a hose in it. This seals really well and holds pressure. The adapter for older vehicles is a flat plate that attaches using a couple of chains. I'm hopeful of a good seal but the chain attachment worries me that there might be some leakage and I won't get the right pressure in the system. We will see.

 

[brownbagg]

i just crack the valve and go watch tv for about thirty minutes

 

[ultgar]

I still have a stainless tank bleeder sitting around that I made up years ago when I was selling brake bleeder caps, mainly for BMW's and other European cars. Prevost quick coupler at the cap connection.