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Motor Capacitor?

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RonRock

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First thing today. Changed the breaker to the 50A that I have on hand. Compressor did start and ran. Very hard starting but didn't trip the 50A. I kept an eye on the Amp draw it was quite high for a bit until things warmed up. Eventually settling at 28A draw. The temp in the loft was 50*F at the time but was 33*F overnight. So the compressor was certainly cold.

Compressor is hardwired.
 
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RonRock

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So the Baldor runs, but noisy as hell. No surprise, that was probably part of the reason it was given to me. That and the missing start cap. Next up is to replace the motor bearings. The tag says 6205 and 6206 bearings. the motor has grease zerks front and rear. But I am wondering if I should replace with sealed bearings? Plug the zerk holes . If this seems like a good idea should I order ZZ or 2RS?
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
First thing today. Changed the breaker to the 50A that I have on hand. Compressor did start and ran. Very hard starting but didn't trip the 50A. I kept an eye on the Amp draw it was quite high for a bit until things warmed up. Eventually settling at 28A draw. The temp in the loft was 50*F at the time but was 33*F overnight. So the compressor was certainly cold.

Compressor is hardwired.
what was the reading and what meter are you using?
 
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RonRock

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SKF or Timken? I always thought that Timken was top quality. SKF is a bit higher price but not a deal breaker if they are better. All on Amazon 2 packs of each, so I'll have a set of spares I'll never need. Or be able to find. Haha.
 

mm08822

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So the Baldor runs, but noisy as hell. No surprise, that was probably part of the reason it was given to me. That and the missing start cap. Next up is to replace the motor bearings. The tag says 6205 and 6206 bearings. the motor has grease zerks front and rear. But I am wondering if I should replace with sealed bearings? Plug the zerk holes . If this seems like a good idea should I order ZZ or 2RS?
I would do the 2RS sealed versions. Plug the zerks. Timken or SKF.
 
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mm08822

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Jan 13, 2012
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First thing today. Changed the breaker to the 50A that I have on hand. Compressor did start and ran. Very hard starting but didn't trip the 50A. I kept an eye on the Amp draw it was quite high for a bit until things warmed up. Eventually settling at 28A draw. The temp in the loft was 50*F at the time but was 33*F overnight. So the compressor was certainly cold.

Compressor is hardwired.
Assuming you have accurate amp readings, I suggest you pull the belt and run it and get more amp readings. How well does the motor spin by hand with the belt disconnected? Noisy?
 
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RonRock

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I will return with answers.

Please remain on the edge of your seats.

I do appreciate the help.
 
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RonRock

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I would do the 2RS sealed versions. Plug the zerks. Timken or SKF.
I disassembled the motor to see what bearings the OEM were. They are ZZ. The zerks had been greased (on assembly, I assume) once. Each end had a splat of blue grease that didn't even fill the void. With sealed bearings there is really no place for grease to go anyway. Kind of funny to see.

But the inside of the motor looks like a new one. Pretty confident that bearings and caps will make a good one.
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
I disassembled the motor to see what bearings the OEM were. They are ZZ. The zerks had been greased (on assembly, I assume) once. Each end had a splat of blue grease that didn't even fill the void. With sealed bearings there is really no place for grease to go anyway. Kind of funny to see.

But the inside of the motor looks like a new one. Pretty confident that bearings and caps will make a good one.
Not that it really matters here, but ZZ is not sealed. ZZ is shielded.
 
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