Motor Home Height to Design for

[megachimp]

Hey all I posted here two years ago when I was getting ready to build my barn. The barn is built and my structural engineer and I just completed plans for an interior mezzanine. Building is 22'1" high (top of slab to bottom of ceiling), 36' wide, and 64' long. 14x14 overhead door. Mezzanine will take up half the building, so 32'x36'. Mezzanine and mezzanine flooring take up 17". Mezzanine will be used as a kids game room.

Going back and forth on what height to set the mezzanine and need some quick feedback:

- OPTION 1: 12' Clear Height on Floor 1, 17" Structural Support/Flooring, 8'8" mezzanine clear height
- OPTION 2: 12'8" Clear Height on Floor 1, 17" Structural Support/Flooring, 8' mezzanine clear height
- OPTION 3: 13' Clear Height on Floor 1, 17" Structural Support/Flooring, 7'8" mezzanine clear height

In the future I may buy (or someone else in the future may buy) a motorhome and I want to plan to accommodate this. Most of the RVs/motorhomes I'm seeing go up to about 12'9" or 13' tops including the AC unit but I don't want to squeeze out my mezzanine.

What would you guys do? This 7'8" is enough?

 

[firebirdparts]

It's "cozy". You can't have ceiling fans. I think ping pong would be a problem, at least for full grown adults. Other than that I think 7'8 is okay.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

14’ minimum for an RV space. 13’6” is the normal maximum height and you are good on all Interstates at that height. Some are taller, but are rare because they are generally only legal west of the Missisippi.

 

[finn]

13’6” is the legal limit from what I remember. My fifth wheel trailer comes in just under that to the top of the air conditioner.

I would plan on a 14’ tall door.

The previous owner of my shop had a logging business. The log loader on his log truck just cleared he door, and the opener has some battle scars, probably from a skirmish with the loader at about 15’ during servicing.

I can’t see how you been 22’ inside height to the top of the walls, though. Sixteen feet should be adequate.

 

[megachimp]

14’ minimum for an RV space. 13’6” is the normal maximum height and you are good on all Interstates at that height. Some are taller, but are rare because they are generally only legal west of the Missisippi.

Does the 13'6" typically include the AC units? My building has 22' clear height in half the building, so depending on the placement of the AC unit it might not be an issue.

My research is finding that a lot of motorhome are more like 12'9".

 

[megachimp]

13’6” is the legal limit from what I remember. My fifth wheel trailer comes in just under that to the top of the air conditioner.

I would plan on a 16’ tall door.

The previous owner of my shop had a logging business. The log loader on his log truck just cleared he door, and the opener has some battle scars, probably from a skirmish with the loader at about 15’ during servicing.

I can’t see how you been 22’ inside height to the top of the walls, though. Sixteen feet should be adequate.

Building is already build at 22'1" with a 14x14 OH door on the short end. 64' length in building. The issue is the internal mezzanine space.

Interesting feedback.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Does the 13'6" typically include the AC units? My building has 22' clear height in half the building, so depending on the placement of the AC unit it might not be an issue.

My research is finding that a lot of motorhome are more like 12'9".

Generally the measured height is the top of the AC. On 5th wheels it is the front AC specifically if they have more than one, but published specs often don’t include the extra height because the front AC is optional. Other rigs all ACs are about the same height.

 

[Steve from Socal]

As mentioned 13'6" is the standard height limit in many states. While a motorhome may be 13' some will be taller, most newer big fifth wheels are also taller. I would plan for at least 13' 7~8" clearance. The room above used as a play room could be 7' ceiling, that is just taller than a standard door opening.

Steve

 

[HoosierBuddy]

My dad had his pusher RV stuck in a warehouse with a 12-foot door. The only way in our out was dump the air suspension to get it down in the weeds, and then creep out through the door.

Eventually I had to sell it for him (long story). A warehouse worker went to take it out the door the day I was supposed to deliver it. Didn't drop it, and knocked the **** out of the a/c unit and busted the cover.

Too late to do anything about it, I drove the RV 4 hours to meet the buyer near the Nashville airport (he and his family flew in from Vegas to complete the sale). 10 minutes after explaining the a/c situation he backed out of the deal. I gave him his deposit back and drove the RV 4 hours the other way.

I hate RV's.

Phil

 

[zmotorsports]

Does the 13'6" typically include the AC units? My building has 22' clear height in half the building, so depending on the placement of the AC unit it might not be an issue.

My research is finding that a lot of motorhome are more like 12'9".

The 13'6" height for clearance on most of the western U.S. highways does include rooftop A/C units. Most are not at that height but many are getting awfully close, especially those with the roof mounted awnings now days.

I like that you went with a 14' tall door and 14' wide. I suggest to most that they go no less than 14' wide and some go 12' wide thinking their coach isn't that wide but 14' is definitely much more enjoyable to pull in/out of.

My RV bay door is 16' wide by 14' tall and I REALLY like that 16' width as I can park my coach anywhere I want in the 20' wide RV bay. When I am just parking it, the coach hugs the west with about 40" of space. This allows the 32" deep front streetside slide to be extended and still clear my slide topper and window awnings but not enough to walk around it. When I need to perform work on the coach I simply back it into the center of the RV bay and that allows full access around the coach with all of the slides extended.

As for height, I would allow as much as possible even if you have to trim the mezzanine back somewhat but I like the ability to climb up on the roof and attend to things while in the RV bay. Otherwise I guess it isn't too bad if you had to pull the coach outside to get on the roof.

Just for reference, our 40' Monaco Dynasty now has the highest point as the top of the A/C units @ 12'4" with our new Winegard Travl'r satellite dish. The previous King Dome put our overall height @ 12'6" tall. Our friends Newell is very tall and their overall height is about 13'1".

 

[blacksporty]

Does the 13'6" typically include the AC units? My building has 22' clear height in half the building, so depending on the placement of the AC unit it might not be an issue.

My research is finding that a lot of motorhome are more like 12'9".

There are many Class A gassers at around 12'9" but there are many 5th wheels and diesel Class A at 13'6", so I would plan for 14' personally.

 

[dcg9381]

14’ minimum for an RV space. 13’6” is the normal maximum height and you are good on all Interstates at that height. Some are taller, but are rare because they are generally only legal west of the Missisippi.

This. If you do 14', you're good for all road going RVs and motorhomes. I wouldn't drop an inch more. I think my 5th wheel is 13'4" - 13'5" depending on what tires are on it.

If you are going to do that Mez space, I'm thinking 13'6" is all I'd be willing to do under it... That's tight on the 2nd floor.

 

[firebirdparts]

I started to post this earlier: If this was my building, I would hate to make such enormous provisions for a big coach and then wad it up right at the corner. It's just a crying shame.

In other words, make the mezzanine 20 feet wide instead of 32 and leave 10 feet clearance under it. Nothing magic about taking half the building.

 

[WNYflyer]

Where does the centerline of the 14'x14' OH door fall relative to the edge of one of the 64' walls? Is the OH door smack dab in the middle of the 36' wall or favor one side of the building? if it favors one side what is the dimension to the centerline of the OH door?

 

[510ebl]

An RV normally at 13’ 0” only stays that way at rest, jacks up. If you have any ideas about dropping the stab jacks or or actually doing service that requires the tires off the ground, you had best have all 14 ft of clearance. Just hooking a 35 ft trailer to a tow vehicle raises and lowers each end 6-8 inches.

As far as measuring the height, standard AC is included in specs and the TV antenna, dish, and FM whip are collapsed.

 

[megachimp]

Where does the centerline of the 14'x14' OH door fall relative to the edge of one of the 64' walls? Is the OH door smack dab in the middle of the 36' wall or favor one side of the building? if it favors one side what is the dimension to the centerline of the OH door?

Good question! Right in the middle of the 36' wall.

 

[dcg9381]

In other words, make the mezzanine 20 feet wide instead of 32 and leave 10 feet clearance under it. Nothing magic about taking half the building.

I agree that this is the best option if you've got long term RVs. That being said, 10' is tight on a big RV. It necessitates that you get the thing straight in and straight out... And if the entry door is offset 2' from the building corner, you really need 12'... Personally, I'd never do anything more narrow than the 14' door.

 

[38Chevy454]

Just piling on, 13 ft 6 inches is needed for future RV upgrades. That is limit you will be safe. Good that you have 14 ft door height. 10 ft min width leaves only a fraction of a foot on each side, typical RV is at the 104 inch (8 ft 6 inches) nominal width. So add in mirrors, and you are very tight! 12 ft is really min width, 14 ft is better. You have 14 ft width, so your door is fine. I would not put anything like floor joists or ceiling surface less than 14 ft inside over the RV. Need to allow for some room, such as if your apron outside the door goes down at decent slope to account for slight tipping.

 

[KBtired]

This is my first post to the forum but I have been lurking for sometime reading and learning all I can. Since I just built an RV garage, 24' x 60' with 14' x 14' doors and a 16' ceiling height, I feel I should share my experience. Including the mirrors, my coach is about 11.5' wide. I have to back into the garage and I can say after a trip the additional space is welcome. 12' doors would be very tight. The 16' ceiling is also nice when getting on the roof for maintenance and/or repairs. It can comfortably be done indoors during all seasons instead of having to pull outside during cold or inclement weather. I hope that helps.

 

[Strouty]

I think the 17" structural flooring is the issue, Find a way to make that thinner and keep the 14' height to the bottom of the floor system, that way, if it fits through the door, it fits under the mezzanine. You could put support posts in, just make sure they are as wide as the door opening.

 

[mike93lx]

There isn't a single ceiling in my entire house that is over 7'8" and I am 6'5". Would taller be nice? Sure, but it certainly works

Tons of people play pool in basement rec rooms that have ceilings at 7.5' or lower

 

[puttinonthekritz]

I'd consider two, 14x14 doors if you're 32' wide overall. If you're set on only one middle door, step up to an 18x14 (20x14 would be better). You wont regret it. It offers lots of breathing room for expensive rigs to maneuver or worst case, allows you park a vehicle/boat/etc next to the camper as well and still get in or out. It might be tight but at least its possible in a pinch. Gives you the option.

 

[finn]

I have a 10x14’ and a 12x14’ in different walls of my shop. Backing th fifth wheel through the 10’ door is a little difficult if you don’t use all the available yard space to straighten the rig up, but it’s doable.

A 12’ would make it easier, but anything wider is a waste of wall space and would only be necessary if the approach was such that you have limited area for the approach. If you can’t back through a12’ door, perhaps you should seriously reconsider your capability of handling such a large rig.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have a 10x14’ and a 12x14’ in different walls of my shop. Backing th fifth wheel through the 10’ door is a little difficult if you don’t use all the available yard space to straighten the rig up, but it’s doable.

A 12’ would make it easier, but anything wider is a waste of wall space and would only be necessary if the approach was such that you have limited area for the approach. If you can’t back through a12’ door, perhaps you should seriously reconsider your capability of handling such a large rig.

I know conventional wisdom is 12' should be adequate and YES, it will fit. I just know that all of our RV'ing friends that have installed 12' wide doors wish they would have gone at least 14' wide afterwards. Any RV will easily fit through a 12' wide door but backing in/out of a 14' wide is so much nicer. That's why I went 16' wide and don't regret it one bit. Allows for jockying the coach around in various positions depending on whether I need to work on it or merely parking it.

If building from scratch I always encourage people to go no less than 14' wide by 14' tall for an RV door. Most who go less than 14' wide regret it eventually.