Motor starter/controller

[Karl Fields]

I have a 240vac pump motor that currently has a starter attached. Long story short, the starter shorted out on the enclosure causing a smoke condition.

So two questions, can I hook the motor up directly, bypassing the starter, to see if the motor still works?
Second question, if the motor still works, can I simply install a 2 pole breaker in place of the starter?

Obviously I don't understand the need for a starter

 

[sdwalter]

What hp is the motor?

New starters aren't that expensive. The are used to switch high current loads and control the arcing at the switch contacts. You could probably use a breaker, but they are not designed for repeated switching and the contacts in the breaker will eventually fail. You could test the motor this way.

Here is a link to a 5hp starter.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0...tarter+230&dpPl=1&dpID=41ItwR88uNL&ref=plSrch

 

[Karl Fields]

The data plate is really crusty, and old, and in a real inconvenient spot, but it looks like it is 1hp. The motor is for a hydraulic pump.
The unit is used for 2-3 hours once a year.
Does the HP rating matter on the starter, like putting your 5hp example starter on my 1hp (maybe) motor?
The current, melted unit specs to this one:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SQUARE-D-SIZ...AC-COIL-600-VAC-2-HP-1-8536SB01-/201102145126

 

[Karl Fields]

FLA is 19:6/6.R

 

[matt_i]

Circuit breaker in place of a motor starter is a bodge in my opinion.

Even if you have to drop down to a "definite purpose contactor" I believe you are better off.

I would feel pretty good about buying old/used stuff, Sq D, Al Bradley, Furnas, just to name a few.

Main thing is to make sure the coil voltage is the same as yours. Could be 240vac line voltage or if there is a control transformer present its probably 120vac. If you trace back wiring for the coil you will find out where they originate.

 

[sdwalter]

Only reason hp matters is for current draw. If your full load amperage(FLA) is 19, your motor is somewhere between a 3 and 5 hp motor, depending on the efficiency. The starter you showed was for a 2 hp motor which should have a FLA rating around 8 amps. That is likely why you let the smoke out of your starter.

You need a bigger starter, like the 5hp starter above.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I have a 240vac pump motor that currently has a starter attached. Long story short, the starter shorted out on the enclosure causing a smoke condition.

So two questions, can I hook the motor up directly, bypassing the starter, to see if the motor still works?
Second question, if the motor still works, can I simply install a 2 pole breaker in place of the starter?

Obviously I don't understand the need for a starter

YOu could hook it up temporarily to see if it runs.

IF the motor doesnt have integral overload protection, then you need the starter.

IF it does, then you could omit the starter depending on what the motor is connected to.

You said its a hydraulic pump. What kind of equipment is it pumping hydraulic fluid for?

There may be a reason for the starter vs direct wired.

The data plate is really crusty, and old, and in a real inconvenient spot, but it looks like it is 1hp. The motor is for a hydraulic pump.
The unit is used for 2-3 hours once a year.
Does the HP rating matter on the starter, like putting your 5hp example starter on my 1hp (maybe) motor?
The current, melted unit specs to this one:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SQUARE-D-SIZ...AC-COIL-600-VAC-2-HP-1-8536SB01-/201102145126

yes it does matter.

You can use a higher HP rated starter on a lower HP rated motor as long as the overloads are set correctly.

You CANNOT use a lower rated HP starter on a higher HP rated motor.

FLA is 19:6/6.R

Do you have a pic?

Not sure I understand your numbers.

Typically the higher voltage FLA will be half the lower voltage FLA.

So, if 19.6a is for 120v, then the 240v FLA would be 9.8a.

 

[matt_i]

Also just wanted to add the idea you could use a drum switch as a "manual motor starter" if you could source such a thing. It will work in the place of the other one, no overload protection other than old school time delay fuses or upstream protection of the circuit.

Probably if you have to buy the drum switch new its not going to be worth it.

 

[Karl Fields]

You said its a hydraulic pump. What kind of equipment is it pumping hydraulic fluid for?


Not sure I understand your numbers.

Typically the higher voltage FLA will be half the lower voltage FLA.

So, if 19.6a is for 120v, then the 240v FLA would be 9.8a.

Rereading the data plate numbers thru the rust, it says 13:6/6.R

This unit is in an old (1990) carnival trailer. Several large, 5'x4" bore rams. Pump on reservoir tank only runs to extend the rams at beginning of season and then at end of season to retract them. Manually turning it on and off when needed.

 

[metlmunchr]

If the motor has an internal overload (pushbutton reset switch on the end of the housing) then you could use a manual starter like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MPQ51O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A manual starter is just a motor rated switch that's suitable for the inductive type load of electric motors. They are also available with provision for heater elements for use with motors that don't have internal overloads, but the price of that type would be significantly higher. Most single phase motors greater than 1 hp do have internal overloads, but you'd only know for sure by checking the motor you have.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Rereading the data plate numbers thru the rust, it says 13:6/6.R

This unit is in an old (1990) carnival trailer. Several large, 5'x4" bore rams. Pump on reservoir tank only runs to extend the rams at beginning of season and then at end of season to retract them. Manually turning it on and off when needed.

The nameplate FLA spec you posted still doesnt make sense.

Can you snap a pic of the nameplate and post it here please.