Motor starter, vibration ok? horizontal mount ok?

[Sumboodie]

Mounted in pic, didn't think about the "cantilevered" weight causing a fair bit of shake.

Probably shakes +- 1/8" when it's running.

Not sure if these things are robust to the point that's not an issue?

When I got the compressor it was "mounted" to the back of the motor with 1 nut and some baling wire and blocked most of the motor vent holes. Not sure where it's supposed to mount from factory, or if it even had one. Doesn't seem like it'd be put on a wall and have a bunch of wiring needing strung out that could otherwise easily be all mounted on the compressor.

Only other place it'll fit fairly easy is attached to the tank/pump mount, under the motor, but would need to be turned 90*. According to Google is says it's ok up to a NEMA 4, which is a big starter... like 100hp.

Not enough room to fit vertical, it's about 6" wide, 10" tall. Have about 8.5" from under the motor to the air outlet.

Thought was I'd bolt the mount vs weld so I could easily move out the way to adjust the belts.... only have 30 mins on it and they're already slapping the belt guard, though I'd imagine once everything settles in place it'll seldom need adjustment.


Open to ideas too. THANSK!


And yes, I've realized the wiring colors are wrong. Was a mess of old Romex and some aluminum wire, so I replaced all with 10 gauge stranded I had. Where I used green, they had bare ground wire

Hopefully it's actually wired correctly, it's working right.

 

[justsam]

Not sure how much of what you have shown is as it came from the factory. I have never seen a Campbell Hausfeld with a Hobbs or run time meter from the factory. What are the specs on the motor? I would be surprised if it came from the factory with cordage for the AC power as I would think it would require hardwire. Certainly it will operate in the way it is now configured. Not an expert on the effect of the vibration, but have never been around a low vibration, piston type compressor, of course less is better. I have attached a picture of a C/H with the starter below the compressor.

https://www.northerntool.com/produc...rIL4UAkymzjq1gKvs5t0biY3ryAtbOKwaAmwxEALw_wcB

 

[Sumboodie]

The hour meter and wiring is all my install. SJOOW 10 gauge.

It just had old 12 gauge romex used without any clamps or bushings in the knockouts when I hauled it home. The motor starter attached to the back of the motor with 1 nut and some baling wire.
It obviously worked, just wasn't safe and I felt blocking much of the motors cooling ports wasn't smart.

Don't think it was used hard, pressure switch had been set to shut off at barely 120 psi where this is a 175 psi setup. (I set it roughly on at 130, off at 160)


It'll get hardwired to a wall mount disconnect switch switch during final install with enough cord so it can be moved for any service work... it's on a pallet so just pallet jack to move.

Ideal would be a few feet clearance all around, but trying to make best use of the connex.

 

[Steve from Socal]

The old NEMA contactors are built like brick shithouses. That should be no problem for the starter. Getting parts for an old Furnas starter may be the biggest challenge. There are plenty of parts on ebay!

 

[Norcal]

The old NEMA contactors are built like brick shithouses. That should be no problem for the starter. Getting parts for an old Furnas starter may be the biggest challenge. There are plenty of parts on ebay!

Siemens bought Furnas Electric, & retired the Furnas brand name, they did the same with ITE.

 

[walta]

I think it will be fine but this GJ and if it is worth doing it should be totally overdone.

Make and install a bracket so it will not wiggle.

Walta

 

[fitter30]

Doubt if the overloads are right. Check with manufacturer tech line. Vibrations to humming is usually because of a layer of rust where the laminated plates that surround the coil when they pull together to close contacts. Only real fix contactor needs to be replaced.

 

[whateg01]

I would be more concerned with the bracket fatiguing and cracking than the contactor.

 

[mm08822]

Doubt if the overloads are right. Check with manufacturer tech line. Vibrations to humming is usually because of a layer of rust where the laminated plates that surround the coil when they pull together to close contacts. Only real fix contactor needs to be replaced.

OL charts should be in the enclosure lid. Go from there, just use the correct chart and/or correct factors.

That contactor comes apart easily. Easy to remove any rust or other debris. Definitely worth checking.

 

[Sumboodie]

Doubt if the overloads are right. Check with manufacturer tech line. Vibrations to humming is usually because of a layer of rust where the laminated plates that surround the coil when they pull together to close contacts. Only real fix contactor needs to be replaced.

It's vibration from the compressor running, not from itself.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

what is the HP rating on the motor? It most likely needs to be hardwired since i can almost guarantee that motor is rated for more than 3hp....

The #10 cordage to the PS is way overkill and the PS terminals may not be rated for that gauge and not to mention the fine stranding in cordage that isnt gonna work either... same goes for the other terminals...

as to the cordage from the starter box to the wall, this is not to code. you cant use cordage in place of permanent building wiring. What you could use is either LT w/ stranded THWN or FMC/greenfield w/ stranded THWN. This will help w/ vibrations.

If this is a 5HP motor, you need 35a rated wire in the wall and from the wall to the compressor: FLC for 5HP is 27a x 1.25 = 35a. so either #10 THWN or #8 NM-b.

BTW #10 2cond cordage is only rated for 30a, so if that motor is rated for more than 3HP(17a FLC), the cordage is no bueno. see T400.5(A)(1)



I would change the wire from the PS to the starter and motor to starter with what it came with from the factory.

 

[Sumboodie]

Ended up making a new mount today. All fixed up.

 

[whateg01]

Ended up making a new mount today. All fixed up.

Pictures or it didn't happen

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I wouldnt call that fixed. the wiring you used on it isnt kosher

 

[mm08822]

what is the HP rating on the motor? It most likely needs to be hardwired since i can almost guarantee that motor is rated for more than 3hp....

The #10 cordage to the PS is way overkill and the terminals may not be rated for that and especially not the fine stranding in cordage... same goes for the other terminals...

as to the cordage from the starter box to the wall, this is not to code. you cant use cordage in place of permanent building wiring. What you could use is either LT w/ stranded THWN or FMC/greenfield w/ stranded THWN. This will help w/ vibrations.

If this is a 5HP motor, you need 35a rated wire in the wall and from the wall to the compressor: FLC for 5HP is 27a x 1.25 = 35a. so either #10 THWN or #8 NM-b.

BTW #10 cordage is only rated for 25a, so if that motor is rated for more than 3HP(17a FLC), the cordage is no bueno. see T400.5(A)(1)



I would change the wire from the PS to the starter and motor to starter with what it came with from the factory.

Why aren't you referencing column 3B? I didn't read anywhere about a neutral in use, so it would be only 2ccc's.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Why aren't you referencing column 3B? I didn't read anywhere about a neutral in use, so it would be only 2ccc's.

yeah i referenced the wrong column but the issue remains. its 30a rated wire and should be 35a... not to mention the other issues

 

[Sumboodie]

#10 rated for 30 amps. Had 12 gauge before and that worked fine.

 

[Sumboodie]

I would change the wire from the PS to the starter and motor to starter with what it came with from the factory.

Unfortunately I don't have a time machine to go back to 1983.

It'll be hardwired when the connex is wired. Pretty sure I already said that.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

#10 rated for 30 amps. Had 12 gauge before and that worked fine.

did you read my previous posts? If you have a 5HP motor you need 35a rated wire.

Also, as you admitted, the #12 was not factory and was NM-b. so gauging whether the current cable you used is fine based on the past incorrect wire being fine is not logical.... but hey its your compressor. if you dont care about codes and how to do something right not sure why one would even bother coming on here to get advice.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Unfortunately I don't have a time machine to go back to 1983.

It'll be hardwired when the connex is wired. Pretty sure I already said that.

no time machine is needed. reach out to manufacturer or read the manual which may or may not have info

 

[mm08822]

Have a pic of motor nameplate?

 

[Sumboodie]

did you read my previous posts? If you have a 5HP motor you need 35a rated wire.

Also, as you admitted, the #12 was not factory and was NM-b. so gauging whether the current cable you used is fine based on the past incorrect wire being fine is not logical.... but hey its your compressor. if you dont care about codes and how to do something right not sure why one would even bother coming on here to get advice.

I didn't. You keep giving it unsolicited.