Motor switch for lighting

[buildyourown]

Can I use a power tool motor switch to control LED shop lights. One of these

Amazon.com

Hear me out. Im adding another 2 zones of shop lights. It would be great if they didnt come on every time I ran down to grab a tool. But it would also be nice if when I left 1 switch killed everything. Im thinking a latching power tool contactor would do that. Or would the lights not pull enough power to hold the switch closed?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Can I use a power tool motor switch to control LED shop lights. One of these

Amazon.com

that switch is NOT i repeat NOT a contactor....

Hear me out. Im adding another 2 zones of shop lights. It would be great if they didnt come on every time I ran down to grab a tool.

so theyre motion activated? remove the motion switch and put in a manual switch

But it would also be nice if when I left 1 switch killed everything. Im thinking a latching power tool contactor would do that.

how many lighting circuits do you have? get a multi-pole lighting contactor

Or would the lights not pull enough power to hold the switch closed?

that isnt how a contactor works. the load has no bearing on the energizing of the coil and closing of the contactor

 

[buildyourown]

I guess my terminology is wrong.
Would it be safe to control lights with that switch? When that switch loses power it unlatches, so the next time I flick the main switch, that switch will be back to off. Thats my goal.

 

[BillK]

When that switch loses power it unlatches

What makes you think that ?

 

[sparky 1971]

I think I understand what you're trying to do. You want to power new lights from existing but route the switch leg for the new lights through switch in the link? That way you can turn on one switch which turns on yhe lights that you have now and get power to the new switch. If you want the new lights on, you turn on the Scamazon switch but turning off the old switch shuts everything off, but when you turn the old switch back on, the new lights will stay off. If that switch is electricly held it will work, but won't if it's mechanically held. If it's mechanically held, the new lights will stay on. I skimmed over it and didn't see anything about how it's held closed. I'm not going to say what it is, but everything I've ever seen like that has been mechanically held meaning it's really nothing more than a fancy manual switch and if that's the case, it won't work the way you want.

 

[dave*99]

I guess my terminology is wrong.
Would it be safe to control lights with that switch? When that switch loses power it unlatches, so the next time I flick the main switch, that switch will be back to off. Thats my goal.

I believe this switch is a simple mechanical switch. As others have said, this switch will not unlatch on power loss.
A magnetic contactor (like the one on my Unisaw) does latch/unlatch. And the push button controls look a lot like the Amazon switch, but a magnetic contactor is connected to the push buttons and it performs the latch/unlatch function.

 

[BillK]

Hear me out. I'm adding another 2 zones of shop lights. It would be great if they didn't come on every time I ran down to grab a tool. But it would also be nice if when I left 1 switch killed everything.

Im not sure if I understand exactly what you are trying to do ? How many zones of lights do you have now ? Are they on a switch or a motion sensor ?

 

[PCustoms]

I get what you're trying to do (posts #5 and #6 explain it well), but I've never got the concept of spending $50-$100 to save buck on power when you run in to grab a tool.

I've got 2 lighting circuits in the garage:

Circuit 1 is a few LED bulbs, you can switch this on at the top of the stairs, at the base of the stairs or the outside door. If I park inside I can swap in an occupancy sensor. Lights are enough to walk around.

Circuit 2 is 3 switched banks. Back left, back right and front. I can switch any or all of these on depending on where I'm working, and the LED strips provide a ton of bright, white light for projects.bif I need to grab something quick back left bank hits all the boxes and cabinets.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I guess my terminology is wrong.
Would it be safe to control lights with that switch? When that switch loses power it unlatches, so the next time I flick the main switch, that switch will be back to off. Thats my goal.

i dont think that switch has an electrically maintained secondary contact (what sparky 1971 mentioned) like what is found on a motor starter contactor, so no that wont happen. you need a contactor with a secondary holding contact to latch the connection.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I get what you're trying to do (posts #5 and #6 explain it well), but I've never got the concept of spending $50-$100 to save buck on power when you run in to grab a tool.

I've got 2 lighting circuits in the garage:

Circuit 1 is a few LED bulbs, you can switch this on at the top of the stairs, at the base of the stairs or the outside door. If I park inside I can swap in an occupancy sensor. Lights are enough to walk around.

Circuit 2 is 3 switched banks. Back left, back right and front. I can switch any or all of these on depending on where I'm working, and the LED strips provide a ton of bright, white light for projects.bif I need to grab something quick back left bank hits all the boxes and cabinets.

pennywise pound foolish

will have to spend some change to make it work how he wants and he may never break even because LEDs use very little power..... just shut the lights off when you walk out... or let the motion sensor do its job

 

[sparky 1971]

pennywise pound foolish

will have to spend some change to make it work how he wants and he may never break even because LEDs use very little power..... just shut the lights off when you walk out... or let the motion sensor do its job

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