motorcycle techs

[freeskier]

ive recently been working on more and more bikes and am about to get deeper into my motor. i have a very solid set of tools and do very regular automotive work but is there anything motorcycle specific i need to add? will an automotive compression tester work on most bikes? can i drive fork seals with a bearing race and seal driver?

 

[Outlawmws]

Do you have a hammer impact for those nasty Phillips cover screws?

 

[Jeeprz!]

I'm not a tech and I'm not sure if this will help you but it might, it is a thread I was reading earlier in the day, scroll thru it a bit and there are alot of references to working on bikes

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28491&showall=1

Outlawmws, I have to wonder after reading the thread I posted above if maybe the JIS drive screws could be the reason for your comment of "have a hammer impact for those nasty Phillips cover screws?

I dont know but maybe they are not philips after all?

 

[freeskier]

i do have a hammer impact, its bailed me out many times.

 

[Jwrightkustomz]

Nothing too unusual. I have found that the #10 security bit from the HF driver set works perfectly for holding the valve adjustment screw on my bike.

 

[Honda guy]

What kind of bikes do you plan on working on?

An automotive compression tester is fine. Most metric bikes use the 10mm, 12mm and 14mm adapters.

You'll need special seal drivers to install fork seals. Motion Pro makes a decent set.

 

[venturesomerite]

I don't know if you have any metric bikes, but I have owned and tore apart quite a few, invest in a japanese phillips screwdriver set. A #2 phillips is not the same as a majority of the phillips on the bikes, very easy to strip out a stubborn screw.

Seen buddies strip out alot of phillips on carbs.

 

[freeskier]

bikes right now are a k3 gsxr 1000 and an 04 cbr600rr. i will only ever be working on bikes from japan. i have a mac compression test set. motion pro makes a set?

 

[Jeeprz!]

I don't know if you have any metric bikes, but I have owned and tore apart quite a few, invest in a japanese phillips screwdriver set. A #2 phillips is not the same as a majority of the phillips on the bikes, very easy to strip out a stubborn screw.

Seen buddies strip out alot of phillips on carbs.

- yeah what he said, that's what i was gettin at lol.

 

[ny1]

Nothing earth shattering. Flywheel pullers are specific to makes and models. Some fit a bunch some are one off. Use them as you dont want to ****** the end of the crank. On some bikes you need special tools to do a valve adjustment correctly. Older Honda v4s had a special tool that lifted the cam to the top of the journal and you set your valve clearence from there. Get a factory service manual and read it. Most are available electronically. Carb sticks are key. I like the old school mercury ones, but I'm old. If your compression tester has the right adapters to fit the plug holes it'll work fine. There are some specific fork and shock tools, they make life easier. As far as fork seals are concerned you dont want to mark up the tubes and you dont want the driver touching the inside lip of the seal. I've seen guys make ones up out of pvc and they worked fine. I just go buy the right ones. There are alot of simple tricks you pick up with time. Being new to motorcycle engines, just take your time and read the manual. Looking back at what I wrote I can't stress reading the manual enough.

 

[WR250F]

A good case splitter will help tremendously. You can make your own if you're the inventive type

Also, fork seal drivers run about $40-45, but you can use a split piece of 2" PVC sch 80 that will work just fine for most applications.

Otherwise, a good torque wrench, a nice set of t-handles and a soft faced hammer

 

[ny1]

I don't know if you have any metric bikes, but I have owned and tore apart quite a few, invest in a japanese phillips screwdriver set. A #2 phillips is not the same as a majority of the phillips on the bikes, very easy to strip out a stubborn screw.

Seen buddies strip out alot of phillips on carbs.

I'll second or third that. Alot of dealership parts rooms stock tons of those screws esp snowmobile dealerships where you are doing a ton of carb cleaning.

 

[redstripe89]

I've found a good set of screwdrivers becomes more important when you start working on bikes. Been using the same compression tester on both cars and bikes fwiw.

 

[DOUGD]

High quality 1/4" drive ratchets,sockets and wobble extensions,an inch pound torque wrench.

 

[ny1]

If your going to work on your suspension buy a copy of Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible. Its a great reference. lots of pictures of suspension teardown and rebuilding even if its mx stuff in some of the pictures. Servicing the forks and shocks are the same the mx ones just have longer tubes and more travel. Barnes and Nobel by me had it on the shelf.

 

[freeskier]

ive got everything but the case splitter so far. had to get the axel socket, my automotive axel nut sockets work on the real wheel.

 

[Jeeprz!]

This may help as well, in the GJ thread I posted they mention that you "should" be able to tell if it's a philips or a JIS screw by the JIS screw having a dimple (like from a center punch) in one of the quadrants of the screw head (that reminded me of the grade hashes on bolt heads) , but someone else mentioned it may also be an X punched into one of the quads of the head.

 

[ny1]

Freeskier your cases split horizontaly you should't need a case splitter. Cases on singles usally split vertically and with those a case splitter helps alot. Basically the crank bearings have a light interference fit on the crank and in the case and the case splitter helps you get it apart.

 

[trboxman]

blind bearing pullers are useful sometimes as well.

 

[freeskier]

looks like im pretty close to where i need to be. right now im waiting on my bearing race drver to do new steering stem races

 

[MattT]

I've never bothered getting JIS screwdrivers. Snap on Phillips seem to fit JIS screws good enough. And if they're stubborn go straight to the hand impact driver.

Try the web for manuals before you buy. You'll almost certainly find the Honda with a little digging. Suzuki are harder to find. Also look for a copy of the Honda common service manual. That's worth a read.

Nothing earth shattering. Flywheel pullers are specific to makes and models. Some fit a bunch some are one off. Use them as you dont want to ****** the end of the crank.

If you need pullers try these two outfits. They're both US made and a heck of a lot cheaper than OEM.

http://www.dssalesusa.net/

http://mbsmfg.com/

 

[kippieland]

++++ on the Manual..don't go cheap with those stupid Clymer either...OEM books are the best, pricey but the best.

I would recommend a chain breaker, so you don't have to grind off the links. Very helpful when changing chains! Also, probably a really strong stand for lifting the bike off the ground. A good rivet gun for changing exhaust packing. I'm not sure how much engine but you will need a good spark plug wrench. A good set of needle noses...basic stuff really.

 

[jwitt]

If you are getting into engine work, you can make a good engine stand out of two cheap-o automotive stands. I made this one out of two 10 dollar flea market stands.

Jim

 

[Mstrfxit12]

You didnt really mention what you already had but a motorcycle lift is a wonderful thing. If you're in the market for one I have been happy with my Titan lift. I got it from a dealer in NH, Clark Heintz NHproequip.com. They were great. I also found when working on my CBR900 that a good set of extra long screwdrivers were invaluable getting in under the tank to drain bowls, make carb connections etc. Good Luck...
Chris

 

[2fat2fly]

You didnt really mention what you already had but a motorcycle lift is a wonderful thing.Chris

I couldn't agree more. They really save your back.
I got mine from here:

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Direct-Lift-Pro-Cycle

They had the best price at the time I bought mine.

 

[Honda guy]

bikes right now are a k3 gsxr 1000 and an 04 cbr600rr. i will only ever be working on bikes from japan. i have a mac compression test set. motion pro makes a set?

Well, I searched the Motion Pro site and don't see the fork seal driver set that I was referring to. They used to have a set made out of aluminum, that covered most sizes and was like $150. Now all I see are individual drivers for about $45 each. Like someone mentioned earlier, you can get by with different sizes of split PVC. Just be careful not to ding the fork legs or they'll be junk. Also. it'll make the job a LOT easier if you have a 1/2" impact gun and the appropriate allen socket, when removing the bottom fork leg bolts. That applies to your CBR. I think the GSXR has inverted forks and they come apart a little different.

There's a book you might be interested in, titled "101 Sportbike Projects" by Evans Brasfield. He covers everything from oil changes, to fork seals, to installing nitrous. Lots of color photographs, and good accurate information. I'd say it's geared towards the serious DIYer, all the way to a pro tech.

I agree with the mercury carb sticks mentioned by NY1. If your carbs are very far off at all, you'll see a real noticeable improvement in how the bike runs, by synching the carbs. Be sure the valve adjustment is in spec before doing the carb synch.

+1 on the lifts mentioned by 2fat2fly. Especially the one with the removable rear section. I use one at work and also have one in my home shop. Made in china, but best bang for the buck IMO. I just wish they weren't black! It makes it hard to find o-rings, seals, etc, that are in plain sight.

Keep us updated on how the steering bearing installation goes.

 

[kippieland]

I hate steering head bearing races. I pounded and nothing. I tried cutting it out with a Dremel, but didn't go deep enough. Finally, used a propane plumbing torch to heat it up and it finally popped out. Check out the pivot works site if you get stuck, they have some really good videos.

 

[freeskier]

thanks for all the help guys, as soon as i get a more perminant space im going to start looking for a lift. my lower race poped right out because it was in 4 pieces so not much of an issue there. any tricks on getting the new one in safe? honda guy, where is the best place to buy "101 sportbike projects"? the gsxr is a wrecked bike that i want on the road by april 1 so i have my work cut out for me

 

[demographic]

Link to 118 downloadable PDF manuals and other bike related documents HERE.
There's lots of pages of them so just keep hitting the next till you get through to the end.
Fairly sure you have to join to have access to them but they don't hassle you for too much info and its free.

 

[kippieland]

thanks for all the help guys, as soon as i get a more perminant space im going to start looking for a lift. my lower race poped right out because it was in 4 pieces so not much of an issue there. any tricks on getting the new one in safe? honda guy, where is the best place to buy "101 sportbike projects"? the gsxr is a wrecked bike that i want on the road by april 1 so i have my work cut out for me

If you got to pivot works website, they talk about putting them in. I just made sure that it went in even. I think they used a really big socket, but I used a bunch and slowly worked it in. Its not that bad, I think getting them out is the hard part. Make sure you get the bearing well greased..again, pivot works talks about that as well.

 

[Gixerfixer]

Have never ever struggled with head races on various bike Suzuki, Honda, Aprilla etc brass drifts to remove the old outer race's and a blow torch and chisel for the inners + a combination of large washers/sockets to refit the outer races with something similar to attached image (the studding I use it's more substantial) I would say head race replacement is one of the easier jobs on a motorcycle, because of the seriousness of this component i.e. steering/suspension always double check everything you have removed bolts etc

 

[NHPROEQUIP]

Thanks, Chris, for the comments. We now have Titan lifts back in stock now (limited supply) here at NHProEquip again.

 

[seber]

Motorcycle lift, hand impact driver, t-handle JIS screwdriver and four way vacuum guage. After that, buy special tools as needed.

 

[ZRX61]

Thanks, Chris, for the comments. We now have Titan lifts back in stock now (limited supply) here at NHProEquip again.

It took TEN years???

 

[JradM]

A blast from the past!

I'll pitch in anyway

• Spoke torque wrench
• Brass punches (so you don't damage chrome when you need to give something a tap)
• Flush cutting pliers (zip ties are all over bikes)
• T-handle spring puller (exhaust springs for example),
• T-handles (not only are they fun and effective on bikes, but you'd look like a noob without them)
• Chain tool
• Seal driver set
• Inside bearing puller (ever try to remove steering tube races without one? Yuck)
• Torque wrenches - there is some finicky stuff on bikes. Triple clamp bolts for example - but inside the engine too.
• Gasket scraper
• Brake bleeder (I'd go pneumatic, but you can make do without. Motorcycle brakes can be very tricky to bleed properly though)
• Rivet gun

I saw compression tester mentioned a bunch of times. Yes, an automotive tester works fine if you have the right adapter - BUT not all all bikes. Off-road bike for example often have decompression activators built-into the camshafts to kep get a bike started (either because you have time kick it or because they want to minimize the size of the battery required). I'm not sure how ubiquitous that is for road machines.


There's a bunch of special tools - but how many are you reasonably going to buy? Might want to tailor these around the types of bikes you'll be working on.

E.g. expect to need some special wrenches or adapters for fork caps.

You don't really need a clutch holder - but I'd probably grab the locking plier version if I were doing this professionally. That will cover lots of bikes. The reason you don't though is that you just put the bike In a high gear and hit the bug nut with an impact wrench - clutch holders are mostly used in home shops if you don't have one.

 

[LXCam]

Thanks, Chris, for the comments. We now have Titan lifts back in stock now (limited supply) here at NHProEquip again.

It took TEN years???

Now that's customer service

 

[Gurp]

I do a decent amount to motorcycle work in my mini shop.
As vintage **** bike lover.
These are my "needs"
Vessel "impacts" in 2 and 3. The 150mm size is great.
Vessel "ball" multi bit screwdriver.

I just a set of soft pics and hard mini pics. Many brands sell these.

A decent multimeter and a cheap set of test leads. In the random 70s and 80s bikes I score or fix the Earl Carl and Cletus and finger f*cked electrical is always a mess.

Large metric hex sockets. The last VLX600 I had in the front axle required a 17mm hex key or socket to remove.

Masking tape and a small notebook.
Mark and take note of Billy bob's said electrical work.



This is by no means a end all list but a few things I've learned I prefer to not live without over the last decade of motorcycle work.
The Vessel drivers are 10/10 the best investment I've made on working on motorcycles.



A seal and bearing driver kit.

A ignition wrench set as well as stubbys. The stubbys are great but a lot of bolts you can't get the thickness of a stubby in so a ignition wrench is perfect.

VESSEL MEGADORA IMPACTA Screwdriver (8 PCS SET) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJ1P211/?tag=atomicindus08-20

VESSEL BALL GRIP 1/4" Hex. Bit Interchangeable Screwdriver (Bit 3PC. (+1, 3 / +2, -6 / PZ2, PZ3) SET. 220W3J1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E55DL4I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

DURATECH Midget Wrench Set, Mini Combination Wrench Set, Metric & SAE, 20-Piece, 4-11mm & 5/32'' to 7/16'', Lightweight, with Rolling Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FB2XDXF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This are also a great option esp for your mobile tool roll.
Hex Axle Tool for Motorcycle Front Axle Wheel, Hex Allen Axle Spindle Tool Socket Adapter Tool 3/8 Inch 17mm 19mm 22mm 24mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LMLXLL9/?tag=atomicindus08-20