Mount Sub-Panel on a two-post lift?

[Gingermedia]

This may have been answered previously- I tried to search but couldn't find this specific question in amongst the many sub-panel questions out there. I'd like to mount a sub-panel directly on the post of my lift, so I can have both 220v and 120v outlets off a single line.

I have a two-post lift on a dedicated 220v 30a circuit. I used flex conduit from the junction box on the ceiling down to the post, because I put the junction box in before the lift and didn't end up with it in exactly the right spot for a straight drop. I couldn't get a good looking bend with the EMT and just decided to go for flex.

I also mounted a disconnect in-line above the outlet. I have a small kid, and want to make sure there's no chance of someone getting hurt if I'm not home.

The other day, I got to thinking: Could I remove the disconnect and replace it with a small sub-panel, and that way have both 220v and 120v outlets on the lift without having to run a separate 120v line? I did run all 4 conductors down to the disconnect.

Has anyone else done something like this? Is it not recommended?

Thank you!

 

[pattenp]

I don't see why not to mount a small subpanel on the post. One thing from your picture is you should use cord for the plug, not romex. Also why use the plug?

 

[Gingermedia]

I don't see why not to mount a small subpanel on the post. One thing from your picture is you should use cord for the plug, not romex. Also why use the plug?

Thanks for the quick response!

The lift manufacturer recommended the use of a twist-lock and an outlet as a secondary emergency disconnect. I've never seen one run this way, and called them to verify. It's "belt and suspenders" with the disconnect I have in-line above it, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.

I'll replace the Romex - good call out. Didn't have a cord, so I grabbed some 10 ga that I had in the shop.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Your pic doesnt load

 

[Gingermedia]

Your pic doesnt load

I’ll try it this way. This work?

 

[pattenp]

Your pic doesnt load

That's odd, it shows on my phone but not on PC. The repost shows on both.

 

[mark flucke]

I really would not recommend mounting a sub panel on a piece of equipment-run 3/4' emt out of the panel to a 411/16 box on the ceiling and run 2 -1/2" flexes out of it-1 for unit power and 1 for a 20 amp GFCI outlet-remember to mount the 20 amp above 48" aff because it is a service area -a 30amp 2 pole disconnect (don't need fused) with a padlock will stop tampering. The lift is a dynamic surface so hard pipe from the ceiling is a bad choice-this is a removable piece of equipment so the sub panel is in my opinion a bad choice.The ground is a #10 from the panel to the j box then splice a #12 for the outlet flex and a to for the unit flex.

 

[pattenp]

Where is the above 48in coming from because being a service area?

 

[mark flucke]

Oh yeah-run !/2" emt on minis(standoff conduit supports) -on the column-knock a hole in the upper portion of the side of the disconnect and use an lb condulet to come into it -if you use the standoff conduit supports you won't need to bend offsets in the conduit--very clean and professional job-

 

[bjcouche]

I did exactly what the OP is asking about.
I installed a tiny 2 space CH Homeline subpanel, in a similar area as the OP has his disconnect box. Then I used a somewhat uncommon tandem breaker, that is two spaces wide but has 4 breakers with the center two handles tied together. The center two breakers are 240 and go to the lift motor. The other two breakers are TWO 120V 20A circuits that feed outlets. I wanted two 120V circuits in the case where I'm using two heavy draw items simultaneously by the lift.
My lift motor is hardwired to the subpanel, and the breaker functions as the disconnect.

 

[mark flucke]

Gasoline fumes and garages need to be gfci
I hate code books and it would take me hours to find it, but every service station and home shop I have ever done the inspector requires it

 

[pattenp]

I have never seen 48in required in residential garages. Commercial service garages are different.

 

[mark flucke]

used a handle tie on cheater breakers?--next to each other? never heard of that unless i totally miss understand--picture of that setup would help me out , but won't work anyhow on the 20 amp single pole and 30 amp 2 pole set up you were originally asking about

 

[mark flucke]

ok-gas fumes are different in commercial and residential-?-I always build to the highest standard-code is minimum-please remember that-you were concerned about your kid earlier-

 

[alfredeneuman]

I always build to the highest standard

Where does the 48" come into play in all this?
Code says anyplace <18" in commercial service garages are considered a Class1 Div2 hazardous location, and having wired new auto dealerships for years with up to 50K sq ft service depts, there are plenty of outlets less than 48" AFF.

 

[Super Mech]

I believe 18” is the norm for commercial property with combustible fumes at least that’s what I remember when I owned a gas station. My 3 lifts all have twist lock plugs on them as a safety in case the switches stick on.

 

[sberry]

One of the reasons to run pipe in the first place is so you could add wire. You already have N, run another. Wire for 120. No law against re do of any of this. Take a few minutes, shorten the pipe, move the jbox. Drill hole in the top of the disc box to feed it, with the disc there you could skip the plug. Put the 120 in that box.
I have a 2 pole switch I couldn't find at the moment to put in. The breaker is local though. The hoist requires the same ocpd as compact wire welder so there is one for that. 120 is fed from gfci circuit.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Is the only conduit clamp the piece of Romex at the top?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

just looked at the pics. OMG no clamps just romex holding as a wire tie?

 

[sberry]

I think that was there during install and never removed it, the box has 2 bolts thru it.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

conduit should not be solely supported by a box.

 

[sberry]

I think there is another hanger on a pipe support above it. If it really bothers you guys I will find another beam clamp. I would be glad to see a pic of yours.
Don't blame you for not showing any pics of your work, always some risk to it here.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I think there is another hanger on a pipe support above it. If it really bothers you guys I will find another beam clamp. I would be glad to see a pic of yours.
Don't blame you for not showing any pics of your work, always some risk to it here.

I dont have a vehicle lift.

 

[sberry]

I wouldn't have a problem with a panel on a lift if there was a compelling reason due to distance or lack of spaces elsewhere but I think this one could be much simpler. Sounds like he has a neutral, only needs one more wire to get a 120/20A.

 

[Gingermedia]

I did exactly what the OP is asking about.
I installed a tiny 2 space CH Homeline subpanel, in a similar area as the OP has his disconnect box. Then I used a somewhat uncommon tandem breaker, that is two spaces wide but has 4 breakers with the center two handles tied together. The center two breakers are 240 and go to the lift motor. The other two breakers are TWO 120V 20A circuits that feed outlets. I wanted two 120V circuits in the case where I'm using two heavy draw items simultaneously by the lift.
My lift motor is hardwired to the subpanel, and the breaker functions as the disconnect.

Thanks - that's basically what I'm envisioning.

I believe 18” is the norm for commercial property with combustible fumes at least that’s what I remember when I owned a gas station. My 3 lifts all have twist lock plugs on them as a safety in case the switches stick on.

OK - that makes sense. I get the idea behind the 48", but I have plenty of other plugs well under that, so they'd be the weak link in the chain in any case.


Thanks, guys. I see the options here- really appreciate the fast responses. I'll clean up - looks like I need another clamp up top and plan on replacing the pigtail with a proper cord.