Mounting 2-Post lift posts closer together

[alberto]

I bought a Rotary SPOA9 (used) and am laying out some design options on paper. I don't work on large vehicles (this is for my personal use) and the garage bay I have is a bit narrow. I would like to have a bit more room to walk around the lift, so I'm wondering if one can mount the columns closer together than the specifications indicate without causing any structural issues.

The specifications from Rotary indicate that the separation between the posts needs to be 8' 5-3/8" (2575mm) for the SPOA9. I'd like to shave off about 1 foot of width, so I'd like to mount them with about 7' 6" feet of separation instead.

Can one mount the posts closer together and if so, what needs to be done to accomplish that?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Aetsh]

I have no technical info to contribute, but our rotary 2 posts at work (chevy dealership) are barely 2-3' apart..i have to turn sideways and scoot through some of them... been like that for years with no problems.

Ill try to take a photo tomo...

 

[pattenp]

I assume the SPOA9 uses leveling cables, so the problem you'll run into is the leveling cables will be too long. You could contact Rotary to see if they can supply shorter cables.

 

[pattenp]

I think you misunderstood the OP's question.

I have no technical info to contribute, but our rotary 2 posts at work (chevy dealership) are barely 2-3' apart..i have to turn sideways and scoot through some of them... been like that for years with no problems.

Ill try to take a photo tomo...

 

[Oldtymeflyr]

As I recall there is a range that you can install a Rotary. I have a Rotary. To answer your question, I don't think there is a problem with the columns being closer together, so as to be able to only work on smaller cars.

The problem will be that too close together and you will have difficulty getting the pads to hit the lift points. There really is not a lot of room to play with, and Rotary's are well engineered to work on both wide and narrow cars.

Somebody mentioned the other problem of the leveling cables being too long.

Your approach requires you to reverse engineer the width.

Good luck.

 

[cwlo]

I agree in that narrowing the columns will make it very hard to fit all cars, since the arms will be too long in some cases. My SPOA9 is installed wide, and I fit my BMW 5 series with maybe 1/2" extension on front arm, 2" extended on the back. Not sure which cars you work on, but the BMW lift points are on the very edge of the sides, so other cars might not be as hard to fit.

Chris

 

[pattenp]

The SPOA9 shows only one setup width. So you will have problems with the equalizing cable lengths. If you manage to get around the cable issue then you could end up with problems with the arms being too long as stated by Oldtymeflyr.

 

[alberto]

Good input. I sent an email to Rotary, I'll report back what they say. Is the arms to long problem even if they are retracted? It seems that the arms are pretty extended when I put my cars on it at the old location (normal width set up).

 

[Bob C]

I have installed numerous Rotary's. Generally I think their response will be "no" for that model, however I have done it for a private user who bought a used SPOA9. The EQ cables will need to be resized or you can install a piece of pipe over the EQ cables on each side to take up the slack. The second problem is the Hydraulic hose. Generally at the top of the columns, we take up the slack in the hose equally on both sides so the lift looks like it has mickey mouse ears, but you could have it cut and recrimped to size. The 8' 5-3/8" is the inside measurement to the column bases. The outside measurement is 11' 5-3/8" for standard installation. The arms do retract so they will not be a problem.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you move the columns closer together, then the arms will have to be spread more fore and aft to fit the vehicle, and this will be a problem, as the smaller vehicles are usually shorter. End result is that the arms may not adjust short enough.

Charles

 

[Bob C]

If you move the columns closer together, then the arms will have to be spread more fore and aft to fit the vehicle, and this will be a problem, as the smaller vehicles are usually shorter. End result is that the arms may not adjust short enough.

Charles

On the SPOA9, they will. Plenty room to get even a tiny focus on there.

 

[cwlo]

Its not the smaller cars, but the bigger ones that will be the problem.


Chris

 

[pattenp]

Bob C gave a good solution of using pipe on the ends of the EQ cables to adjust the length. I have seen that done before.

 

[saabman]

I strongly recommend against mounting them closer together. As other have said, that will make it hard to adjust the arms.

 

[alberto]

Heard back from Rotary. Here is what they said:

"We do not recommend installing your lift any narrower, the reason is
because you will limit your range of pick-up points with your lift.
If you do move this in, the rule of thumb is for every inch you move
this in you will need to have 2 inches of spacer pipe in your carriage."

Not sure what I will do now. The issue of the arms is a concern; I'd hate to do that and then find out that I cannot use the lift for one of my cars.

 

[alberto]

I have installed numerous Rotary's. Generally I think their response will be "no" for that model, however I have done it for a private user who bought a used SPOA9. The EQ cables will need to be resized or you can install a piece of pipe over the EQ cables on each side to take up the slack. The second problem is the Hydraulic hose. Generally at the top of the columns, we take up the slack in the hose equally on both sides so the lift looks like it has mickey mouse ears, but you could have it cut and recrimped to size. The 8' 5-3/8" is the inside measurement to the column bases. The outside measurement is 11' 5-3/8" for standard installation. The arms do retract so they will not be a problem.

Great input, thank you. Do you have any feedback from your customers about increased difficulty in finding the right pick up points for their cars?

 

[Bob C]

As cwlo stated, unless you are going to lift larger vehicles, you will be fine. As an example, I installed Rotarys years ago in a VW shop. They were all narrow bay lifts. If that shop wanted to lift a F150, it would have been a real challenge to do so. I would advise against it in your case as what happens if you get a larger vehicle. Who knows what your future will hold? You can install the power unit on either side so if it was my install, I'd try like heck to get you to install it normal. Put the slave side close to the wall and the power unit out toward the center of the shop. If you insist on the narrow install, you will be fine on small vehicles but larger ones may post issues in hitting the correct lift points. The larger the vehicle the larger the pain in lifting it. Also keep in mind a SPOA9 is based on balance. If you narrow it, you change it lifting balance. You will need to account for that. Think of a narrow wheelbase versus a wide wheelbase, which has better stability?

 

[Aetsh]

I think you misunderstood the OP's question.

Youre correct.. It was late, I was tired and misread!

n00b fail

 

[pattenp]

Been there, done that.

Youre correct.. It was late, I was tired and misread!

n00b fail

 

[tonycastec]

Had you considered shortening the 2 stage arms?Yes, it can/has been done.
Use 3 stage arms instead?
Use wheel-engaging adapters -very expensive but technically feasible- see Mohawk's site for item: "WA-1" ?
Use runways over the arms (Mohawk,Hunter) ?
Put the slave column tight against one wall ?

 

[pattenp]

This is not a good suggestion if you have a floating slab. Anchoring instructions I'm familiar with say not to bolt any closer than 8 inches to a joint or edge of the concrete.

Had you considered shortening the 2 stage arms?Yes, it can/has been done.
Use 3 stage arms instead?
Use wheel-engaging adapters -very expensive but technically feasible- see Mohawk's site for item: "WA-1" ?
Use runways over the arms (Mohawk,Hunter) ?
Put the slave column tight against one wall ?

 

[Bob C]

alberto, One other thing came to mind. Please specify your exact model# SPOA9 what? there should be more behind it. Reason I ask is years ago, the overhead was a solid length piece then later it was adjustable for length. This is a critical piece of info which will affect your narrow install signifigantly.

 

[alberto]

alberto, One other thing came to mind. Please specify your exact model# SPOA9 what? there should be more behind it. Reason I ask is years ago, the overhead was a solid length piece then later it was adjustable for length. This is a critical piece of info which will affect your narrow install signifigantly.

Bob: I don't have the rest of the numbers/letters handy. I do remember Rotary told me it was built in 2002. I'll check the overhead to see if it adjustable, although I admit that I'm thinking of dropping the idea.

 

[alberto]

Had you considered shortening the 2 stage arms?Yes, it can/has been done.
Use 3 stage arms instead?
Use wheel-engaging adapters -very expensive but technically feasible- see Mohawk's site for item: "WA-1" ?
Use runways over the arms (Mohawk,Hunter) ?
Put the slave column tight against one wall ?

I spoke with Rotary about new arms, but they cost an ARM and a leg (Get it? ).

Just for additional information, I asked Rotary about mounting the asymmetrical lift symmetrically, and they said that you cannot do it.

 

[abstamaria]

Alberto, why don't you stand the posts where you want them, put the cars you want to work on in between, and then mimic the swing of the arms with a tape measure. The lift might just accommodate your cars.

I followed something like that when figuring out how far apart to position the posts of my lift. The only difference is that I marked the lift points of all my cars on a large piece of cardboard and placed the cardboard sheet between the posts.

Andy

 

[alberto]

Alberto, why don't you stand the posts where you want them, put the cars you want to work on in between, and then mimic the swing of the arms with a tape measure. The lift might just accommodate your cars.

I followed something like that when figuring out how far apart to position the posts of my lift. The only difference is that I marked the lift points of all my cars on a large piece of cardboard and placed the cardboard sheet between the posts.

Andy

That's a very good suggestion Andy. Instead of standing the posts (It would scare the heck out of me to think they would fall), I could just make a template of the base and put the arms on the floor and spread them out and see where they fall on the car. It won't be perfect because I cannot check exactly for the center of gravity, but you can certainly eye ball it.

This would also let me test an idea I have about mounting the posts in reverse (facing backwards, so to speak); I have two rear engined cars which are the ones I am most likely to be working on and if I put the lift in the conventional way, I would have to pull the cars further forward since all of the weight is in the back, requiring more clearance room to the front. If I mount the columns in reverse, I would be able to avoid this. The one draw back is that now the columns are more in the way of opening the doors, but I'm thinking it's not that big of a deal. If I need to work on front engine cars, if I cannot drive it straight in because of clearance, then I can just drive it into the bay in reverse, which would be OK since it would be the exception.

 

[abstamaria]

Yes, that would be good, Alberto. I marked the jack points of all the cars on the large cardboard sheet, using a common centerline. Actually, I used just one post and simply moved the entire cardboard sheet farther from or closer to the post to find the best compromise position. The centerline on the sheet would then mark the center between the two posts.

It's hard to explain, but the other pictures on my garage's thread might be helpful. Here is the link. The photos are in post#546.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71002&highlight=Modern+garage+east&page=28

Good luck.

Andy

 

[rb26dett32]

Wow, tons of good info in this thread and on this forum. Nice to know there are still some good things on the internet. I'm in a similar position with my lift. But it's actually the other way around.

I already installed my lift and got everything perfect and I go to install the cables and... I'm about a foot short right now

The lift is used and it used to be set on a slightly smaller setting. It was in the middle. I'm now on the widest setting but I can't figure out a way to make the cables work. I'm thinking the original owner bought shorter cables. But since I'm going to be working on some wide cars/trucks I went with the widest setup. Now I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy another set of cables. If there is something I'm missing please let me know asap. Otherwise I'm going to order some new cables on Monday because I can't go much longer with out a lift.

Thanks, and sorry for slightly thread stealing.