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Mounting a 150lb cabinet on the wall

bmwpower

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I might be buying a small flammable safety cabinet that mounts on the wall. The problem is I'm wondering if mounting this 150lb cabinet on the wall is ok to do because it's so heavy. The wall is 2x4 construction with 5/8" rock. I really don't want to sit it on the floor as it will take up valuable floor space.

I didn't realize these things were so heavy.
 
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Junkman

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Drill 1/4" holes into the studs, and then lag bolt it to the wall studs. Make sure to use enough lag bolts to secure it properly. If you want a little extra insurance, then bolt t 2" x 4" under it horizontally. Add up the weight of the stuff that is in a kitchen cabinet, and look at what they use to hold them to the wall. Especially the cabinets that hold your dishes. Lots of weight there...
 

rsanter

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you can also put a piece of angle iron across the bottom with it anchored to the wall. this will help carry some of the load and not just the back panel of the cabinet

bob
 
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bmwpower

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French cleat? Can't tell from the pict how it works.

Picked up the cabinet today...it's not heavy at all. Maybe 50-60lbs at most. I can pick it up by myself. Stoked to mount it, but need to hide it from the wife for a little while....ssssshhhh!
 

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mmg440

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I would think 4 to-6 good quality deck screws (not drywall they are brittle) into the studs with a added washer on the heads should do fine. I you are unsure about that go with the 1/4 lags already suggested. I would still recommend the washers to help prevent pull out. The 2/4 stud walls should not have any problem with such a cabinet just make sure you hit the studs.
 

kbs2244

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French Cleats have a back angle on the top edge to hold what is hung from them.
Think of how slat wall works.
For this cabinet a 2x4 across 2 or more studs will take the weight.
I would put some washers behind the screw heads though.
You don't want the screws to pull through the sheet metal.
 
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bmwpower

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Looks like the model is actually a stackable model.

http://www.eagle-mfg.com/add14.html
Model ADD-15

Not sure if this is going to cause any problems. I need to get some pictures of the rear of the cabinet and see what you guys think. The rear panel of the cabinet is welded to the rest of the cabinet in 3/8" spots. Wondering if it's going to be strong enough?
 

nissan_crawler

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Just do a board below it to support the weight, then a few lag bolts through the back wall to keep it from tipping. That way, you'll be putting very little load on the spot welded back.
 

mmg440

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I wouldn't think that it would have any problems hanging. I would think a fire cabinet should be thick enough steel and made strong enough to hang. But it could possibly sag in the front if not strong enough. I have a couple steel cabinets I got from a closing parts store that sagged when hung by the back (they were not meant to be hung). I put braced shelf brackets upside down on the inside corners of the top to keep it square.


You could just put up a solid shelf using braced brackets and put the cabinet on it.
 
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beelsr

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lag/screw a cleat to the wall to support the bottom. The truly paranoid will hang a shelf and put the cabinet on the shelf.

Regardless, lag it into the wall through the rear. Try to match the studs to cabinet so you're screwing through an appropriate place.
 

bochnak

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its no different than hanging a 58" plasma across a couple of studs

My TV mount used 4 - 1/4" lags and is good for 175 lbs. This mount extends about 15" from wall and swivels. All 4 went into 2x4's obviously.

My TV weighs only 60lbs...LCD.

I think 4-6 1/4" lags and your good to go:thumbup:
 

haulna

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My first post using photos.

I framed a cabinet seat and lag connector for my metal cabinets.

Start off by attaching 2x2's to the wall studs using long screws.

PC220036.jpg


Fabricate the side gussets out of 3/4" plywood. I used concrete forming plywood with the protective face. Pre drill holes for connecting.

PC220038.jpg


Attach the side gussets to the 2x2's.

PC220040.jpg


Frame the shelf and install the 2x4 backing connectors.

PC240046.jpg


Buy your cabinets and prep.

PC220037.jpg


Install you cabinets on the platform.

PC240049.jpg


Lag bolt the cab to the backing connectors.

PC240050.jpg


Trim it out.

P2010134.jpg


With this design you get the load capicity of the shelf and the capicity of the lag bolted connection. Mine will support a couple hundred pounds.
 
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beelsr

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wow, total overkill. I love it! :thumbup:

you recognized what most people miss when doing this. it's not just the weight, it's the form factor and construction of the cabinets that you're habging that needs to be addressed as well.

i think you could have gotten away with 3 lags on each inside row... :beer:
 
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bmwpower

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Damn. I just did some more analysis in the garage and it looks like my cabinet isn't going to fit in very well. The only place I think it will be out of the way will be under my top over on the left side of my garage (where I usually stick my feet when sitting at the top). I took some measurements for mounting it on the wall where I originally wanted to , but it's going to stick out quite a bit (18" depth) and would be in the way when walking on that side of the garage (which I do a lot when cars are in the bay). Plus, the double wall construction in the back will make it interesting when trying to mount on the wall. I'd have to drill the inner wall and out wall to get the lags through. Not sure what that would do to the fire rating, etc. Just more work than I was planning for. Arg.

Not sure if I should sell or what.
 
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bmwpower

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I have decided to sell the cabinet. Just doesn't fit anywhere on the wall where I would like it to fit.

Let me know if anyone is interested. I can get it on a pallet and ship freight, too. Otherwise, it's gonna go on eBay.

IMG_6714.jpg

IMG_6715.jpg

IMG_6716.jpg

IMG_6717.jpg
 

eric87

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anyone ever heard of cabinet screws. i have installed a tone of kitchens and they work great. haulna do you plan on parking a tank in that cabinet or what?
 
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