I wanted to mount a traditional barnlight on my new shop, but didn't want an unsightly junction box or dealing with cutting a huge hole in the metal siding to mount a recessed box while balancing on a ladder.
Scouring the web, looking at dozens of pictures of barn lights, I came across a mounting arrangement that seemed to suit the predicament that I was in... Use a small hole saw to drill a hole the through the wall, put the fixture tubing through the hole and mount the box on the inside.
As most of these lights use 1/2" rigid metal conduit, the threading is the same as on outdoor junction boxes. Use a rigid conduit ****** and a threaded coupling to take up the width of the wall, and screw the fixture into the threaded hole on the backside of a metal outdoor junction box. Secure the box to a wooden brace. Cap with a blank plate. Put some clear silicone around the tube... less than 10 bucks and your done. All the parts can be purchased at your local bigboxdepot store.
I drilled the hole from the inside as it was easier that way and had my daughter stand outside and shout when the fixture was level to secure the box at the proper angle.
I don't see a problem with proper support of the fixture as the fixture is supported by the back of the box and further by the wooden brace that the hole is drilled through.
I used a radial wave RLM fixture from the Steel Lighting Co. It's built like tank, made in the USA and priced reasonably. It also uses a standard 1/2" rigid conduit thread. The bulb is an A21 GE reveal LED. It looks very similar to an old school 150 watt bulb, is made of glass and is rated for damp locations. You can find these at Lowes.
Fixtures under the overhang are vaportight LED fixtures from Lowes.
I used 1/2" LFNC-B Liquid tight conduit.
Scouring the web, looking at dozens of pictures of barn lights, I came across a mounting arrangement that seemed to suit the predicament that I was in... Use a small hole saw to drill a hole the through the wall, put the fixture tubing through the hole and mount the box on the inside.
As most of these lights use 1/2" rigid metal conduit, the threading is the same as on outdoor junction boxes. Use a rigid conduit ****** and a threaded coupling to take up the width of the wall, and screw the fixture into the threaded hole on the backside of a metal outdoor junction box. Secure the box to a wooden brace. Cap with a blank plate. Put some clear silicone around the tube... less than 10 bucks and your done. All the parts can be purchased at your local bigboxdepot store.
I drilled the hole from the inside as it was easier that way and had my daughter stand outside and shout when the fixture was level to secure the box at the proper angle.
I don't see a problem with proper support of the fixture as the fixture is supported by the back of the box and further by the wooden brace that the hole is drilled through.
I used a radial wave RLM fixture from the Steel Lighting Co. It's built like tank, made in the USA and priced reasonably. It also uses a standard 1/2" rigid conduit thread. The bulb is an A21 GE reveal LED. It looks very similar to an old school 150 watt bulb, is made of glass and is rated for damp locations. You can find these at Lowes.
Fixtures under the overhang are vaportight LED fixtures from Lowes.
I used 1/2" LFNC-B Liquid tight conduit.
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