Mounting a Dewalt planer on a DeWalt DWX726 rolling stand?

[Crow Horse]

Has anyone mounted a Dewalt planer on a Dewalt rolling stand? If so, how did it work out? I now have a DW734 and it is heavy and I need to have it on a mobile platform that will be able to negotiate my gravel driveway. Any and all ideas will be considered.

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[WWheeler]

My hunch is the planer would be too heavy for that. I know it's marketed to handle more weight than that but I believe that's it's capacity in it's upright working position with lumber on it, not the tool itself for folding and moving, which is more for a miter saw weighing half as much as that planer. I have my Dewalt sliding miter on a Ridgid stand and I couldn't imagine trying to fold it and move it with the planer on it instead. I wouldn't even attempt it. .

I just made a base for my Dewalt planer, same as yours, using locking swivel casters on one side and fixed on the other BUT I don't have a gravel driveway I ever want to move it around on. If I did I'd probably have made my base without the wheels but a slight gap at the bottom for easy moving with a hand truck, or even incorporate just two large wheels and a handle on one side of the base so I could move it around just like a hand truck.

 

[Shiftless]

I have that exact same planer. I built a stand from framing lumber and put large locking casters on it so I could roll it over the threshold and out the man door to the level concrete pad out behind the garage. My driveway is sloped.

 

[shoot summ]

I considered mounting my 735 to a Ridgid MSUV, but honestly even my Bosch Axial Glide takes some effort to get up on the MSUV, the 735 would be worse.

After looking around a bit I settled on the Wen MSA658T, I am very pleased with it, purchased on Amazon.

ETA well I missed your gravel requirement, IMO a 2 wheeler will be the best bet. The wheels on the Dewalt look small, the MSUV has large wheels, and you can pick it up for $99 if you are patient. With 3 or 4 wheels you will always be inadvertently "chocking" one of the wheels on a piece of gravel while you try to push it.

WEN MSA658T Multi-Purpose Rolling Planer and Miter Saw Tool Stand with Extension Rollers

Adjustable rollers expand up to 54.3 inches for additional workpiece support Metal top provides a reusable work surface that requires no drilling unlike MDF alternatives Retractable swivel caster quickly turns the stand from stationary to mobile Compatible with the majority of saws and planers...

wenproducts.com

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

I would say for gravel you almost have to go with pneumatic casters. I have the 735x which is quite a bit heavier on four swivel casters that are overkill, and it can move more than i like on uneven pavement. Good luck!

 

[RTM]

I have the 733, and carry it by hand to the driveway, and clamp it to a workmate for usage. (Or at least I did last time I used it, its been a few years.) I would suspect trying to flip it sideways to roll it on that cart would strain the heck out of that cart. I think mine is 73# or some such. Plus it will vibrate off the Workmate if not clamped down, so it may try to walk the cart a bit. Wheel blocks might be in order.

I like the idea of pneumatic tires, my driveway is contoured, and hard casters don't like it, I can't image gravel.

If I had a reasonable amount of space, it would be on a 4 pneumatic wheeled cart, only slightly larger than its footprint to make it stable to roll, tall enough to feed from a nearby pair of sawhorses.

Mine used to sit on a shelf at a convenient height, so it was just grab and carry, minimal lifting.

 

[BukitCase]

Without having a single clue of your tools and abilities I have an idea that MIGHT work - I have the MSUV, but my 12" dewalt slider sits on a 4 wheel "concrete only" cart, the MSUV has a lighter non-slider hitachi saw for "mobile framing" type stuff - the wheels on the MSUV are 12" diameter, IIRC about 1-1/2" wide - DEF NOT very "gravel friendly", unless it's packed and smooth.

In looking at pics of the current MSUV, it appears that replacing the stock wheels with something more gravel friendly might work, but I would replace the wimpy little bolts the stock wheels use with a piece of 5/8" steel rod (all one piece) and the wheels with at least 13" no-flat tires -

I have those tires on a welding cart I built; the cart is its own hand truck that can be lifted, rolled, towed, and the part that lets it be a hand truck also provides "roll bar" protection for the tank gauges. When it's on concrete, the trailer hitch gets pinned up and it rides on the 13" tires and a pair of 5" dual lock casters (casters retract for towing mode)

Finally, the point - those 13" tires (approximately 4" wide) are carrying the welder (50# with a full spool of wire), the cart (at least another 50#) and C25 tank (at least another 50#) - in "hand truck" mode, it's fine to move around on the parts of my driveway that're 3/4 minus gravel - on a couple areas that're 1-1/2" minus rock, it isn't fun but works fine in "tow" mode with either the golf cart or zero turn towing.

The point of all the above is that slightly larger diameter and 2-1/2 times wider tires DO make a difference, and might be doable with a little tweaking... Steve (pics below are just cause NOBODY doesn't like pictures And yeah, it REALLY IS balanced in that last pic...

Edit - looks like your 734 is 20# lighter than the 735, every little bit helps

 

[Crow Horse]

Brilliant idea & execution! Unfortunately for me, I've been retired from a large metal fabrication shop and this would have been an easy (and cheap) answer. The price of steel on the retail level is insane and I miss the dumpster diving in the scrap bins.

 

[BukitCase]

Last 34 years before retiring, worked in 2 different rare metals plants; BTW, the frame of the above cart started out as a cutoff corner of a catwalk's safety rail, from dumpster to me then maybe 10 years later I found a use for it

Also, one of my smaller weld tables (36"x60"x.5") with a heavy angle frame came from the dumpsters (that one cost me $.05 a pound, came to $20 - they had a price per pound list for stuff they got PAID for, IIRC stainless was 15 cents a pound - been retired for 10 years now, I wouldn't mind if NEW steel was $.50 a pound again... Steve

 

[Crow Horse]

Small items the shop I worked for they'd just let us have it. I purchase some aluminum plate from them when I was making a kydex press. On the retail level, it would have cost $80+. They charged me $14. I was a happy camper. Now things are quite a bit different. I have no shop or garage, so all projects are done outside and are weather dependent.

 

[BukitCase]

"weather dependent"

Not an inviting situation; I drove thru that area in december of 1968, with an 8 month pregnant wife in a '57 BelAir hardtop towing a 14' Uhaul trailer - seems Uncle Sam thought my wife might like giving birth in her home state of California while I spent the last year of my 4 years flying all over the world troubleshooting various intercept systems - got snow going thru New York, but no prob; it didn't slow down enough to stick, too busy traveling horizontal -

Sorry, just got the dinner bell - I hope you at least have a spare room or something, it's a ***** having fun stuff getting ruined... Steve

 

[Aileron]

I bought a 735 in december and also bought the ridgid stand. LOL, i have not yet maited the two but thats my plan. My ryboi bt3100 is mounted on a bosch anti gravity stand and my dewalt 12" miter is also on a bosch stand. I would have bought another bosch stand BUT for the price i paid for the ridgid 169.00 on a special buy, I couldnt really pass it up. Hey and get this althought the ridgid box smelled like cigarrete smoke, it did come with a free Kia lower ball joint. Evendently it was someones return HD sent me. I store all my saws in a walk out basement and roll them through the yard to the driveway, porch etc when i need them. I need the portability those stands provide.

 

[bad_idea]

I have the 735 mounted to the dewalt rolling stand. I had the stand left over from my miter saw (came with the saw, mounted the saw to the work bench). Works fine! I mounted mine with the feed going perpendicular to the wheels/handle. Care must be taken when feeding material, but not really an issue with a planer - shouldn't be shoving the material in anyways. The stand itself can be a bit tippy when pulled across uneven surfaces (even with the frame lowered).

 

[Crow Horse]

As far a consumer stands, this one might be a better option.

 

[BukitCase]

Weather's a bit crappy atm so I watched a couple vids of that stand - looks pretty good and sturdy, but in your case I paid particular attention to possibility of bigger/wider wheels - only way I could see that working would be using a longer axle so the bigger tires don't hit the legs when in use.

Looks like if the thru axle was maybe 4" longer on each end the interference would be gone. The OTHER plus is that the bigger tires would NOT cause only one end to sit higher, unlike the MSUV... Steve

Edit - here's a good angle showing the probable interference -

 

[Crow Horse]

I have both the stands I pictured, one on a double bevel miter saw and the other on my table saw. Both are able to manage my gravel driveway. The difference is that the planer is a fair amount heavier. A thru axle might impede the legs from folding. I'm going to have to get out to my t. saw and take some measurements.

 

[BukitCase]

on the most recent pic, it looks to me like the legs fold AWAY from the wheels; hard to tell, but it looks to me like that one ALREADY has a 1 piece axle - but if you're already using 'em and they're OK, then (as I sometimes tend to do) I'm attempting to fix a non-problem

Well actually that isn't true - with all the looking, I seem to have created a "need" for a portable table saw - wonder how one of those rolling stands would work for my PM66 ... Steve

 

[Crow Horse]

"I think you're gonna need a bigger stand."

The simplest and most budget friendly is to build a wood cart. I have a 3/4" SS axle, pillow blocks, and 12" wheels (from a snowblower) that I can use. Buy an armful of 2x4's and I should be off to the races, but I'm missing one item, warmer weather.

 

[BukitCase]

Either warmer weather, or Carharts (get the snap-on hood) and a serious stubborn streak - around here, Home Depot stocks KD lumber at about the same price as the green stuff; it's MUCH straighter and literally about HALF THE WEIGHT.

I used KD 2x6 when I did the frame for my cyclone mod, ripped in half on the TS then a light pass thru the planer, the blower/motor got a welded steel bracket for the relocation. The black foot pedal lets the barrel drop for quick dump, there are stops that center the barrel when replacing, then step on the pedal and it raises the sub platform (and the barrel, of course) against the seal . works really well for a 1-1/2 horse,.. Steve

 

[Crow Horse]

I went the budget route. It's not finished yet as rain abbreviated my working time.

 

[BukitCase]

Needs more traction Just kidding, looks good - glue and screw, or just the pocket holes?

I did a small outside workbench that way (glueless) a few years ago, frame was 2x6, legs were dual 2x6 ("angle"wood) to cut down on sway - no glue on that either, but it just sits there. Top is a melanined (free) solid core door (had a cutout doggie door, so bench is only 5 feet long)

Looks like the 1" axle and pillow blocks won't have any prob with weight Steve

 

[Crow Horse]

No glue, just pocket holes. I might want to make some adjustments. On the end opposite the wheels I want to put some steel "skids". Maybe a folding handle. A top & shelf is next.

 

[BukitCase]

Here's one way I've done handles, this is my "offroad" small band saw - handles pin up or down, pin hitch for towing, also held in place with hitch pins... Steve (Can ya tell I like square tube? Can ya ALSO tell I should practice a bit before starting a project after a year between?)

 

[Crow Horse]

I installed a top and then the planer. It works very well and beyond my expectations! I'm extremely pleased. I still need to make a bottom shelf, leg skids and conjure up something for an extended handle. So far I'm into this for about $25. Not too shabby.

 

[BukitCase]

A single gang electrical (outlet) box would come (sorta) close to fitting on the end of a 2x4 -

Steel City 4 in. 2-1/8 in. D Handy/Utility Box 5836112-50R - The Home Depot

This 1-Gang Handy Box is made of steel for durable performance. It is suited for indoor projects and is constructed with 10 knockouts of a 1/2 in. size. For use with conduit.

www.googleadservices.com

A little crude, but cheap :=)

on the handle(s) you might wanna make 'em so they pull straight out with a stop about 2/3 of the length - a simple hinge might let gravity take over if you tilt the table too far.

Kinda like I did for this inherited jointer, you'd need to zoom in a bit... Steve

 

[Crow Horse]

Mounted & functional. Looking to make telescoping/slide out handles.

 

[RTM]

Looking good. Before you get too attached to that shelf under there, make sure you don't like it for passing lumber backwards. I usually set up sawhorses on the side when I'm doing a stack of lumber. Someone said the top is great for passing backwards, but only for 1 or 2 at a time. That low height seems ergonomically poor for passing the wood backwards, but great for ditching all the supplies that go with it.

Since I was folding mine up to store, the dust hood had to be removed, and I kept a few sets of spring calipers, some marking and measuring tools with it. The clamps to join to the DC, can't think of what all else, but a few dividers to keep stuff from falling off as you jostle your way back into the shop, and you'll be golden.

About the only thing I'd do different, if I built one like that, would be to have some way to compensate for my tilted and scalloped driveway, so it would not rock depending on where I set it.

My dad built a stand for his RAS, and used pipe and flanges to mount them. Bit of a pain, but unscrewed easily to get them out of the way. Using something like Wheelbarrow handles with fixed stops on them would be sweet, slide in and out and away you go.

 

[BukitCase]

Lookin' good as RTM said; on the pic of my little (now my son's) jointer, it's hard to see without zooming in but my handles have a shorter piece of 1 size larger EMT that the handles slide in, so the conduit clamps firmly clamp the larger emt.

I found out the hard way when I was 19, that I really was NOT superman - my back's been somewhat of an irritation for the next 58 years, so when I did the little jointer (cast iron ain't too light) I lucked out - the handles are at a height so that with back straight, arms straight and knees slightly flexed, when I straighten MY legs the legs of the stand come off the floor about 2-3 inches.

Couldn't make it any more comfortable than that... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

"have some way to compensate for my tilted and scalloped driveway, so it would not rock depending on where I set it."

RTM, I thought about doing that on my "offroad" bandsaw cart (see pics above) - I wuz kinda busy at the time, so didn't do it (yet) - the preliminary idea was to do a pivot mount at the front center, use that to pivot a "floating" axle (like the front end of some tractors) - basically, the "axle" would be a T shape, with the T pivoting on a bolt and 2 "feet" (instead of tires) dropping a couple inches from the outer ends of the "axle" -

That would result in the main frame "thinking" it was a tripod, but the 4 "legs" would all be solidly on whatever wavy ground you had (within reason, of course)

IIRC, I even got as far as cutting out the parts; next time I'm in that area I'll take a look... Steve

Oh, forgot - you'd also need to find a place on the frame for a couple of "limiters", possibly adjustable - if that upside down T could pivot TOO much, one of the front feet would probably drag (forcing you to lift the handles further than comfy...

 

[strutaeng]

I have one of these planers and I've been storing it in my shed floor. I think it's time I build a cart as well.

 

[GrayFlattop]

I mounted mine to a 27" wide 3 or 4- drawer lower tool cabinet. Picked up an inexpensive one from Menard's, bolted a piece of plywood to the top and screwed the planer to the plywood. Extra drawers are always useful. I use mine for sanding discs, sanding drums, and other misc. supplies.

Locking casters allow for a solid footing.

 

[Crow Horse]

Finished (for the time being). Skids are on and locking pins for the handles are installed. It's really easy to move around.

 

[BukitCase]

I like the cleats; they add a splash of color, strenghen the corner joint and stiffen the handles. Now if the weather behaves it'll be time to make some shavings ... Steve