Mounting a large vise.

[Recoil Rob]

I may ahve bit off a bit much with the new Yost 6" for the garage. Bench top is 2" hardwood and this vise is going to take up quite a bit of space.

What's the procedure for mounting a vise on it's own stand? I have seen them fabricated from square and round pipe stock with a flange on top to mount the vice and another on the bottom to mount to the floor.

What size mount would I need for the 120lb Yost 206? Is there a preference for a square over round pipe upright? What thickness should the wall thickness be? How thick should the end flanges stock be?

What size bolts & nuts for mounting the base to the floor?

I assume they are mounted in concrete floors, whats the best method? Drill holes in the concrete floor, mount threaded rod (or bolts, head down) in the floor and use nuts to hold it down? How's the rod cemented to the floor, concrete or epoxy?

How high off the floor should the vise be and how close to the workbench? What about height of vise in relation to height of bench?

Lots of questions I know but best to get it right the first time.

 

[Rezarf]

Wow that is a lot of questions.

I have one for you, what do you plan to do with your vise?

That will help determine a lot of your questions.

FWIW, I would still prefer a bench mounted vise.

However, I would use as thick as necessary... 1/4" wall (min.) square tube (or round ) 1/2" plates top and bottom. You will drill and use concrete bolts to mount it in the slab. They work kinda like drywall anchors/molly's.

As far as relation to other stuff, wall, workbench, whatever, even how high... that is largely answered by what you plan to do with it. I like to mount my benchtops at my belly button and a vise jaw would be useful a few inches higher still. In a perfect world, you could mount the vise in the middle of the room to maximize its use, but if you can swing a foot or two clearance on 2 sides with some open space on two other sides you can handle most things.

Hope it helps, sounds like a beast of a vise!

 

[Outlawmws]

I agree, you need to spell out what you are doing with it, particularly for mounting height.

Specs for stand material has already been stated, the bottom plate needs to be big enough so you don't rely too much on the concrete anchors to keep it from tipping over. that said, I'd use counter sunk socket head bolts so as to minimize the tripping hazard.

You want concrete anchors that are threaded and expand in the hole, leaving it flush if you ever move the monster.

 

[VegasBruce]

A stand mounted vise is perfect, I wouldn't mount one on a bench. For mine I used 2 pieces of 2x6 1/4 wall rectangular tube, 1/2" plate on top with a 14" blind flange 1 1/4 thick for the bottom. It weighs about 100 to 120 pounds. For just about everything I do its heavy enough as is, and it can roll into a corner out of the way. It can also be bolted down if necessary.

 

[Kirbot]

How about mounting it on a big log?

If it's good enough for anvils, it should work for a vise.

 

[Outlawmws]

How about mounting it on a big log?

If it's good enough for anvils, it should work for a vise.

And why would this be? Two completely different tools used for different purposes...

 

[Recoil Rob]

What am I going to do with this vise? not to be a wise *** but it just for holding things. No special purpose but there have been times I felt the 4" on the bench was a little underpowered for holding things that need loosening or tightening or bending.

Vegas, is that a 4" or 6"? My 6" weighs about 120# so if that's what the stand weighs it seems it would be very top heavy if not bolted down. Nice piece of work though.

 

[Outlawmws]

And we weren't trying to be smart assess either. Obv, it’s for holding, but what are you doing then?

If only cutting with a saw, or filing, that doesn't take a lot to mount it, and has fairly specific mounting height requirements, depending on how tall you are and your overall body configuration, and the typical part height and where you are cutting/filing.

This may be a compromise at times, as if you commonly work on a large piece that needs you to be working higher, you may want it mounted lower. If you usually work on small pieces, it wants to be higher for best user comfort and minimizing fatigue.

If used for pressing operations mostly, you are likely to want it slightly higher as most of your work is with the vise handle itself, and not the work piece. Or you might be putting in bar stock and bending it or even hammering on it.

Then another use might be to hold another tool (Tubing bender, notcher, arbor press...) then again you might want it lower still.

Mine has the jaws mounted about even with the height of my elbow, and it works for much of my use. (My main vise is mounted on a work bench) I also use it for a multitude of different work and even though the work bench top is 2X4's glued and screwed together in a 3-1/2" thick laminate and is further topped with a Formica counter top, and was attached to the wall of my garage, I managed to rip it, bench top and all off the wall while working with a large piece and bending it.

So the question of what you plan to do with it was not an attempt to be snide or mystical. there is nothing fun about constantly having a work piece cause you to be working outside your physical comfort zone/angle.

With a post mounted vise, you could make an adjustable height post:

• Get two pieces of square tubing that fit each other closely, and cut them both for a vise height as low as you might typically work.

• Get a cheap bottle jack with at least 6-8" of lift and get it up so you can access it from the bottom of the two pieces. have the larger attach to the vise mount plate and the smaller attach to the floor plate (So the top piece makes a "cover" instead of a "catcher" for filings and dust and whatnot), and have a extension "push bar" go from the top vise mount plate to the bottle jack, top when fully depressed.

• A couple of nuts welded on over access holes and once you have the desired height, you can cinch the thing down in two directions so it's rock steady.

 

[porphyre]

To reinforce what Outlawmws is saying... big vises can hold BIG things. They are very strong and capable!

If you're got to clamp a 70-100lbs hub/driveshaft assembly into it and beat some bolts out with a 10lbs sledge, that's a lot different need than if you're going to use it to hold 15lbs exhaust piping while you weld a flange on the end.

If this was a crappy $30 4" from Home Depot, we'd just tell ya how to mount it because there isn't a whole lot you can do with it.

A Yost 206 on the other hand.... lots of possibilities.

 

[Kirbot]

And why would this be? Two completely different tools used for different purposes...

"Why would this be?"


I used anvils as an example because they are both big heavy chunks of iron frequently used for beating on.

And at least half the anvils I've seen have been mounted this way.

Instead of arguing the different uses of anvils and vises, why don't you just give a reason why this (with a taller log) wouldn't work.

 

[VegasBruce]

What am I going to do with this vise? not to be a wise *** but it just for holding things. No special purpose but there have been times I felt the 4" on the bench was a little underpowered for holding things that need loosening or tightening or bending.

Vegas, is that a 4" or 6"? My 6" weighs about 120# so if that's what the stand weighs it seems it would be very top heavy if not bolted down. Nice piece of work though.

It is a 6" vise, not 120# though. It could be made heavier, or bolted down. If it is bolted down, I would still want a base that would hold it up somewhat. I don't like depending on just the bolts to hold equipment. I've always thought a semi brake drum would make a good base also, maybe even filled with sand or concrete.

 

[Outlawmws]

"Why would this be?"


I used anvils as an example because they are both big heavy chunks of iron frequently used for beating on.

And at least half the anvils I've seen have been mounted this way.


Instead of arguing the different uses of anvils and vises, why don't you just give a reason why this (with a taller log) wouldn't work.

No, a vise is not a "heavy piece of iron frequently used for beating on" that would be an anvil.

Anvils are mounted like that because the load is nearly always straight down and any side loads are not anywhere near the loads they get straight down. (tapping not pounding...)

A vise on the other hand is going to see more side and twist loading than loads straight down. To hold things, and some things get very heavy, the vise must be anchored securely. A log section, especially a taller one, is not easily anchored down, and almost by definition the vise would be held to it with lag bolts. Not what I would recommend to anchor a heavy vise, expecting heavy side and rotational loads.

And I asked you to clarify yourself as you were the one to make the suggestion. You should be able to defend that suggestion when asked for clarification on it.

 

[leg17]

"Why would this be?"
I used anvils as an example because they are both big heavy chunks of iron frequently used for beating on.

And a wood chisel is for opening paint cans. It's the correct shape isn't it?

 

[Kirbot]

No, a vise is not a "heavy piece of iron frequently used for beating on" that would be an anvil.

Anvils are mounted like that because the load is nearly always straight down and any side loads are not anywhere near the loads they get straight down. (tapping not pounding...)

A vise on the other hand is going to see more side and twist loading than loads straight down. To hold things, and some things get very heavy, the vise must be anchored securely. A log section, especially a taller one, is not easily anchored down, and almost by definition the vise would be held to it with lag bolts. Not what I would recommend to anchor a heavy vise, expecting heavy side and rotational loads.

And I asked you to clarify yourself as you were the one to make the suggestion. You should be able to defend that suggestion when asked for clarification on it.

Fair enough, but my vise is held down lag bolts, and yes, it does get pounded on. Not like an anvil, but not all the work I do is as gentle as using a hacksaw or file.

And a wood chisel is for opening paint cans. It's the correct shape isn't it?

Did that add anything of value to the thread?

On second thought, did it even make sense?

 

[HoosierBuddy]

When faced with the same delimna, I mounted my 6" Morgan to the bench top. I considered a stand, but decided not to go that route.

IMHO I would not have a big vise like that on a stand without bolting the stand to the floor. If it ever got knocked over, it would make a BIG dent in something. Also, when you go to tugging on the vise handle, or whatever you have mounted in the vise, you don't want the vise base walking around on you.

BTW...use some good bolts. It bugs me when I see a nice vice mounted to a nice bench with mismatched, used, grade 2 hardware bolts. Spring for the good stuff. I bought these A325 bolts and heavy nuts (they are actually flange bolts) from work. Grade 8 would work too. I used stainless washers on top (for show) and grade 8 washers underneath the hard maple to spread the load.

Phil

 

[Recoil Rob]

Outlawmws,

I didn't think for a second you or anyone else was being sarcastic, I apologize if it seemed that way. This will have no specific use other than be the big, all purpose vise in the garage. It will handle a variety of tasks from holding bolts while I cut them to holding pipe to be bent, to holding some big rusty thing while i pound on it. truly general purpose as I am not a dedicated auto mechanic, welder or such. perhaps for my use I would be better off bolting it to the bench top with some reinforcing plates on both sides of the wood.


thanks,

Rob

 

[Outlawmws]

For general purpose, having the jaws about at elbow height is what you probably want then. if you have an existing vise, set it up and see; is it too high or low to be comfortable? this is important as having it at optimal height can probably come close to doubling your effective strength when it matters. (i.e. can you actually get your weight behind it?)

The other thing to consider is will it and the force you apply to it, rip the bench from the wall? (Note my experience with mine. I had to practically rebuild an already very strong workbench to get it lagged solidly into the wall again)

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

Here's one of our shop vises on a shop built stand.

The stand is made up of a 1" thick plasma cut steel circle that the 3/4" studs are welded into (the studs secure the vise to the stand).

The 1" plate is then welded all the way around onto a piece of 6" diameter 1/4" wall pipe that is then welded onto a piece of 2' square 3/8" thick plate. This plate will eventually be bolted into the floor using (4) 3/4" concrete wedge anchors. Right now it's just sitting on four bolts that can be used as leveling feet, this is temporary until the shop is finished.

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

"Why would this be?"


I used anvils as an example because they are both big heavy chunks of iron frequently used for beating on.

And at least half the anvils I've seen have been mounted this way.

Instead of arguing the different uses of anvils and vises, why don't you just give a reason why this (with a taller log) wouldn't work.

Kirbot,

The reason anvils are mounted like that is the force is almost always directed downwards. With a vise (especially a large vise) you'll often find yourself pushing, pulling, twisting on the piece in the vise or more likely on the vise itself. A large vise either needs to be mounted on a bench heavy enough to withstand these forces without moving or on a stand that is anchored into the floor in order to be used to its full potential.

-Erik

 

[bad_idea]

i myself have a large vise in a home garage. i have a small garage, so seperate pedestal is out of the question. built a workbench out of steel angle to support anything i might beat on. centered the vise over one of the bench legs to support the vise and translate any downward force directly to the concrete floor rather than the bench flexing. while any flexing may be minimal it still absorbs some of the force from a hammer strike. i want all of the force absorbed by the object i am striking. to further illustrate this centerpunch a piece of steel plate in the middle of a wood top workbench. then take the same piece of steel plate on the corner of a steel bench and see how much deeper the punch mark goes.

forgive that rabbit trail please. also plan on bolting the whole bench down soon to avoid pulling the bench over on myself. my workbench weighs in around 300-500 pounds and i managed to rock it yanking on something in the vise. it would be a real bass-terd to have the bench fall on me and crack a couple ribs.

so once more, i reccommend mounting it to the bench on a corner with quality fasteners. bolt the bench down too. good day.

 

[dwm]

It's too bad this stand is $495.

 

[bad_idea]

i feel confident i could build that stand for about $50 in materials, if that. some work to do in the garage, but easy if i could do it after work in the shop.