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Mounting compressor outside & concrete pad size??

Jason280

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Mar 4, 2012
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Several weeks ago, I purchased an IR 80gal vertical air compressor. My original plan was to mount it inside of my shop, but with space at a premium, I have decided to mount it outside along an adjacent wall. I can simply build a small enclosure around the compressor to keep it out of the elements, which should help minimize compressor noise inside of the shop.

So, any issues with mounting a compressor outside in a small enclosure? I don't plan on sealing the enclosure up, but still want to make it as rain proof (and animal/bird proof) as possible. How do you deal with freezing temps in the winter, and do the lower temps pose any problems with the compressor oil and pump life? I live in middle Georgia, so we have hot & humid summers, but do see our share of freezing temps in the winter. I know ideally it would be better to mount it inside the shop, which is well insulated and completely out of the elements.

My second question concerns the actual pad size needed for the compressor itself. Because of the small size of the pad, it isn't feasible to bring out a concrete truck. As such, I will be mixing all the concrete by hand in a wheel barrow. Will a 5x4' pad (4" thick) be large enough? Based on the Quickrete bag calculator, that will take 12 bags of 80lb Quickrete, with a 5x5' requiring 15 bags. My back aches just thinking about mixing up 15 bags of 80lb Quickrete!!

Also, how should I go about "attaching" the pad to the side of the existing slab/foundation of the shop? I poured very generous footers on the outside of my shop, and I don't want the pad to shift. Would it be advisable (or even recommended) to drill some short holes (6-8") in the side of the existing slab to run rebar into, which would extend out horizontally to the pad I am pouring? Say, run three pieces of rebar spaced out 1.5' each, with a 4x4' piece of fencing on top to keep everything together? I would simply pour the concrete over it, which should ensure it would never shift and stay firmly attached to the slab. Good idea, or am I completely over thinking this?

Any recommendations?
 
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darkk

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Willimantic, Ct.
You could build a small attached room off the side of the garage with an appropriate sized pad, install a pass doorway to the compressor from inside. Close off the outside walls and insulate. It would cut the noise, keep anything from entering from outside and leaving the door open during cold weather would expose it to the garage heat when not in use to eliminate any cold issues. Just close the door while it's running.
 

theoldwizard1

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Being in GA, I would be more concerned about letting the heat OUT than freezing temps. Use a synthetic compressor oil and you will have no worries.

As for the pad, 48"x48"x4" is between 5-6 cu ft., but that is 12 60# bags of Quickrete.

Because you live where the you don't get frost in the ground (or at least not more than an inch or 2), you can just dig down about 6", dump in 3/4" gravel, hand tamp, and lay some concrete blocks down (don't use those cheapy, mostly gravel, patio blocks). Mount the compressor on rubber blocks.

Double check the level after running the compressor for 10+ hours. It should not be a problem if you tamped the gravel down well.
 

rasit

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Sounds like you got a good plan. Be sure to keep the tank drained of any condensation in the winter between freezes. No real issues with cold oil starts and additional engine wear would be minimal. +1 on attaching to existing slab.
 
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Jason280

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Well, I decided not to waste my Saturday and got busy on this project. It took me right at 3.5 hrs to finish, and the hardest part wasn't mixing the concrete. Oddly enough, the biggest pain was drilling the three 1/2" holes in the side of the slab. Even with a brand new masonry bit, the Makita hammer drill didn't want to drill very well. I am not sure if the drill wasn't big enough, or if it was operator error, but they were a PITA. The other difficult part was smoothing the concrete. I should have cut off all my braces even with the top of the form, and it would have been much easier to smooth out.

Other than that, it wasn't too complicated. Here are a few pics:

Here is what I started with, and the form for the concrete:

Pad.jpg

Pad1.jpg

Pad2.jpg
 
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Jason280

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Here's the concrete, and the rebar/wire reinforcement. It was probably over kill, but certainly made me feel better!

Pad5.jpg

Pad4.jpg

Pad3.jpg
 
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Jason280

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...and the finish product:

Pad6.jpg

Pad7.jpg

Pad8.jpg

Pad9.jpg


I ended up making it 4x5', and right at 5" thick. It should be more than enough for my compressor, which I will be mounting and building an enclosure for on Monday. More pics to follow!
 

Hades12

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Union Mills NC
That looks good. Just do a simple roof for it that puts the compressor and motor up inside. Pipe your drain out under the compressor unless it stands very tall the concreat will eat up your hand when you try to drain it.
 

Mmfh

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Looks like a great job on the pad, seems a little over kill on attaching it to the shop pad but too much is always better than not enough.

X2 or maybe even X3 on the nice damn Avatar!!
 

brownbagg

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mine been outside 28 years, all i did for the roof is get a plastic 55 drum cut in half and bolted to top of tank. water runs off and air gets around the motor
 

hugos

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Mar 28, 2012
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Maybe this is a dumb question, but, can leave my compressor pressurized for short periods? Maybe a few weeks? Or do I have to open the valve at the bottom to let the air out?

Thanks


Hugo Smith. Sent from my iPad.
 
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Jason280

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Sure, no issue with leaving air in the tank. I keep my other two compressors pumped up all the time without any problems, but I do keep the pressure switches off.
 

BD1

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Looks good, oh yea, the pad too ! So, how many 80 pound bags did you
use ? Just curious on how close the bag chart was.
 
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Jason280

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I think your form stakes are too small, you were lucky it didn't blow out.

You're kidding, right?

So, how many 80 pound bags did you
use ? Just curious on how close the bag chart was.

The chart on the Quickrete site was dead on. 20' (5x4') at 4" called for 12 bags of 80lb Quickrete, whereas 6" called for 17 bags. Mine was roughly 5" thick, and I ended up using 14 bags.
 

Herb

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No such thing as overkill. Now onto other matters- Dude, you've been holdng out on us! Take your wife out to dinner or let her buy some news shoes or whatever it takes to get some more pictures of her up in the significant others thread!
 
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Jason280

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Quick update, I was able to get the "room" built for the compressor. I'll get a few pics together and post them this afternoon...
 
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Jason280

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Time for a few updated pics...

Here's the compressor loaded, ready for the trip to the shop:

Delivery.jpg


It took three of us to load it on to the back of the trailer, and was a lot easier than I expected. The compressor was fairly easy to "roll", and we didn't have any problems.

Of course, I was on my own once I left with the compressor, as I had no one at the shop to help....except my youthful assistant:

Kubota1.jpg
 
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Jason280

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Without my Kubota, I would have never been able to move it by myself. With the tractor, I was able to pick it up and move it wherever I wanted, but it still would have been better to have one more person. Interesting note, the compressor height was almost too high to pick up with the loader on the tractor, and I didn't have a lot of room to spare.

Delivery1.jpg

Delivery2.jpg

Delivery3.jpg

Delivery5.jpg

Delivery6.jpg

Delivery7.jpg
 
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Jason280

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I mounted it using Cobra SuperSleeve 1/2" masonry anchors, which should be more than enough to keep it secured to the pad. I used some rubber pads under the feet to hopefully isolate vibration, so I'll have to see how effective they are. Its actually 1/4" rubber padding that they sell for the bed of trucks, and I had some left over from a previous project.

CompressorMounting.jpg

CompressorMounting1.jpg

CompressorMounting2.jpg



eta: The 1/2" masonry bit that was included in with the SuperSleeve kit was a complete POS. It sheared both of the teeth on the front of the bit within the first two holes, and I had to use one of one own 1/2" bits.
 
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Jason280

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...and here's the enclosure:

CompressorEnclosure.jpg

CompressorEnclosure2.jpg

CompressorEnclosure3.jpg


I may end up placing a rain guard on the front, just to make sure no rain spray makes it to the motor. I feel like the enclosure is a good size, in that it allows me enough space to work around the compressor, but still small enough that rain spray shouldn't be an issue. Now, all I have left to do is run my wiring and air pipe. I'll likely end up using 3/4" PEX, as I have all the tools, fittings, and materials readily available.

Total cost breakdown was as follows:
-15x bags 80lb Quickrete $55
-8x treated 8' 2x4s $30
-Compressor $500
-1L IR compressor oil $12
-Motor controller $65
-50a cut off box $Free
-Tin for roof and sides $Free
-40' 8w3 wire $30

I'm looking right at around $700, not including the cost for PEX air lines (which will be well under $30-50). Great thing is, the compressor is now out of the shop and away from my man cave, so noise shouldn't be an issue. I'm interested to see how loud the compressor will be, as I have yet to hear it running since I made the purchase.
 
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Stephenw

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You should have extended the drain line. Then you wouldn't have to reach under the tank to open the drain. With the compressor outside, there is a bigger chance of spiders and other critters hiding underneath.

Drain.jpg
 

e30bradley

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Don’t have a garage in Arizona USA
That would be the wife unit... ;)

you should be proud to have a girl like that :thumbup: lol
the compressor house looks really nice. Are you happy with how the concrete came out? I've never worked with concrete but I want to do the same thing when I get a compressor. and $200 to build a platform and enclosure doesn't seem to bad. Good job.
 
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stonesfan68

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Houston, TX
I'll likely end up using 3/4" PEX, as I have all the tools, fittings, and materials readily available.

Please DO NOT USE PEX or ANY OTHER form of standard plastic pipe for compressed air! The oil in the compressed air can cause the plastic to become brittle and crack and explode like a grenade- this is especially true of PVC. Use only plastic pipe specifically approved for compressed air.

Contact a distributor for information on using aluminum pipe (like Infinity or Simplair or Transair) or just use black iron or SCH40 galvanized pipe.

Also, you don't want to tighten the bolts down too much on the tank legs. I've seen more then one leg sheared off by an over-tightened anchor bolt. The bolts should just be snug.

If you need the manuals for the compressor then send me a PM.
 
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Jason280

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Are you happy with how the concrete came out? I've never worked with concrete but I want to do the same thing when I get a compressor

I would have preferred it been a little bit smoother, but that was my fault. I should have cut my support stakes even with the top, which would have made smoothing it out much easier. Other than that, I am satisfied.
 

IRtoolsguy

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Apr 6, 2012
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...and here's the enclosure:

CompressorEnclosure.jpg

CompressorEnclosure2.jpg

CompressorEnclosure3.jpg


I may end up placing a rain guard on the front, just to make sure no rain spray makes it to the motor. I feel like the enclosure is a good size, in that it allows me enough space to work around the compressor, but still small enough that rain spray shouldn't be an issue. Now, all I have left to do is run my wiring and air pipe. I'll likely end up using 3/4" PEX, as I have all the tools, fittings, and materials readily available.

Total cost breakdown was as follows:
-15x bags 80lb Quickrete $55
-8x treated 8' 2x4s $30
-Compressor $500
-1L IR compressor oil $12
-Motor controller $65
-50a cut off box $Free
-Tin for roof and sides $Free
-40' 8w3 wire $30

I'm looking right at around $700, not including the cost for PEX air lines (which will be well under $30-50). Great thing is, the compressor is now out of the shop and away from my man cave, so noise shouldn't be an issue. I'm interested to see how loud the compressor will be, as I have yet to hear it running since I made the purchase.

VERY COOL!!! :beer:
 

tdsilk

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Oct 1, 2012
Messages
1
Hello,

I have a similar issue and just wanted a little advice. My compressor is a Kobalt 80gal that I just purchased new for $600. It's currently sitting in my garage on a pallet while I figure out where I want to put it. My house has somewhat of a walk space (not crawl space) with a slope. There's a door on the side of the house where when you walk in under the house the floor above is about 10ft and decreases to about 8ft as you walk to the other side of the house. The floor is dirt with plastic sheets layered in some spots. My question is should I leave it on the pallet and carve out a flat surface for it or lay concrete similar to the last poster? My breaker box is in the garage and I think I can easily run power and piping below the house. All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,
Troy
 
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