Mounting data rack to wall

[halcyon]

Purchased a 9U data rack to mount to the wall that weighs ~50lbs, and can support an additional ~200lbs inside it (https://tripplite.eaton.com/smartra...l-mount-rack-enclosure-cabinet-white~SRW9UDPW). I was looking at how to mount it, and the mounting bracket has 4 screw holes, 2 pairs that are 16" apart, but because there is a 2.75" separation between the pairs it means only 1 pair of 2 holes can really go into studs. If I put (2) 5/16 x 2" lag bolts into the bracket and studs, is that enough?

Alternatively I could put a 3/4" plywood backer board up that spans 3 studs and screw into that, but would prefer to avoid extra work/cost unless it is necessary.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, Two 5/16 Lag Screws should, if screwed into the center of studs, be more than adequate to support the load.

This assumes that the screws will be loaded in Sheer, not Tension.

 

[Max]

My experience with a similar rack says that will be plenty. If you are still concerned, you could add two additional support screws through the bottom cross member to both add more support and lock it onto place.

If you want to compare, try looking at your kitchen cabinets and how they are mounted. I think you’ll be surprised at the size and quantity of screws… If I remember correctly, my rack is mounted with 4 #10 screws that are 2.5” or 3” long.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd install it with a couple grk 5/16" RSS and not worry. I don't use lags anymore

 

[Blk88GT]

I agree with Mike, GRKs.

I mounted mine to a sheet of plywood with screws, but only because the wall was bare studs/insulation and I couldn't get it where I wanted it without a backer.

 

[bwringer]

Agreed with the above.

Although for a bit of that extra belt and suspenders peace of mind, you could also install a simple painted or stained wood cleat at the bottom of the cabinet, screwed to the studs. I've done this a few times.

It also makes installing and leveling an awkward and bulky cabinet or rack a lot easier; it's much easier to install a wood cleat nice and level, then you can rest the rack on the cleat and hold it against the wall to drive the screws.

 

[Youngandfree]

Agreed with the above.

Although for a bit of that extra belt and suspenders peace of mind, you could also install a simple painted or stained wood cleat at the bottom of the cabinet, screwed to the studs. I've done this a few times.

It also makes installing and leveling an awkward and bulky cabinet or rack a lot easier; it's much easier to install a wood cleat nice and level, then you can rest the rack on the cleat and hold it against the wall to drive the screws.

Yep I was going to suggest a cleat.

 

[niget2002]

I used lag bolts into stud on one side and 100lb sheetrock hardware on the other.

But I also have a dynamic load from a cat that uses it as a jumping off point to get onto a shelf.

 

[mike93lx]

But I also have a dynamic load from a cat that uses it as a jumping off point to get onto a shelf.

Did you consult a structural engineer to make sure that was properly accounted for?

 

[niget2002]

Did you consult a structural engineer to make sure that was properly accounted for?

No. I tested in place by hanging from it and shakin like it's hot.

 

[mike93lx]

No. I tested in place by hanging from it and shakin like it's hot.

As long as it was en fuego hot, you should be good.

 

[Max]

Agreed with the above.

Although for a bit of that extra belt and suspenders peace of mind, you could also install a simple painted or stained wood cleat at the bottom of the cabinet, screwed to the studs. I've done this a few times.

It also makes installing and leveling an awkward and bulky cabinet or rack a lot easier; it's much easier to install a wood cleat nice and level, then you can rest the rack on the cleat and hold it against the wall to drive the screws.

That is exactly how I installed mine. And since it’s in my mechanical room I didn’t have to remove the cleat once it was mounted.

Also, if the cabinet isn’t very thick metal use washers on the screws…

 

[PoorUB]

I have a few storage cabinets that are screwed to the wall with four GRK #8 cabinet screws each. I know the one cabinet has over 400 pounds of paint and chemicals in it.

A couple 1/4" GRK screws will handle the weight of electronics easily as long as the length gets 1-1/2" - 2" into the stud.

 

[cgrutt]

Personally I'd want to catch at least 2 studs with a piece of cabinet grade ply then screw the rack onto plywood. You could use tee nuts on back side of ply and machine screws on the brackets. Plywood would also give you some space to screw a few wire tie holders or loom holders for wire management.

If you could only catch one stud Molly bolts or other drywall anchors might work on other side of the bracket but that would be distant second choice if it were mine.

 

[reader2580]

Just use Spax or similar lag screws one into each stud and be done with it. Most stuff us DIYers do is way beyond what is really necessary. They probably put extra screw holes so the cabinet has more than one position that works. If you really thought it was necessary you could put a second hole below each screw and put in four screws instead of two.