Mounting lights on trusses?

[Ihateclevernames]

Gents, My lighting is going up as we speak and I am looking at leaving the ceiling exposed as I like the option of being able to store things up there and what have you.

I have about a 36' x 32' area that I need lights on the trusses in. I will also have garage door openers as well up there so that makes the placement a little bit difficult. I am thinking about lights spread out on the sides of the building, outside of the openers and lights in the middle as well.

What I am struggling with is how to actually mount them to the trusses, I have scored 15 enclosed fluorescent lights for free and am planning on using those. They are surface mounted, so I was thinking about mounting them on 2 x 4 lumber, and running MC between the lights and using the lumber to screw the light fixtures to and secure the MC to as well in the areas that are to be lit.

I have seen raceway and things like that used in commercial applications, but I feel like that might be overkill in this case, hence the idea about the 2 x 4s being used.

Thoughts?

Biggest thing is that i don't want to have MC unsupported on the ceiling application and I would also like to keep things nice and neat.

 

[lakeroadster]

How heavy are the lights and what is the spacing on the trusses? Pole barn or just regular 24" on center?

I'd suggest making a T-shape section by using (2) 2 x 4's.

• Use joist hangers to attach them to the trusses.
• Nail the T-Joint 12" on center.

Eazy Peazy

 

[pattenp]

If you're saying you want to use 2X4 bridging between the truss to mount the lights to then that will work. As lakeroadster suggested, using hangers will make it easier to get the 2X4's in place. I suggest that you use the screws made for hangers because it's easier than pounding nails plus you can get the hangers in place easier with the screws. At least that's my experience with the screws vs. nails.

 

[checkthisout]

Gents, My lighting is going up as we speak and I am looking at leaving the ceiling exposed as I like the option of being able to store things up there and what have you.

I have about a 36' x 32' area that I need lights on the trusses in. I will also have garage door openers as well up there so that makes the placement a little bit difficult. I am thinking about lights spread out on the sides of the building, outside of the openers and lights in the middle as well.

What I am struggling with is how to actually mount them to the trusses, I have scored 15 enclosed fluorescent lights for free and am planning on using those. They are surface mounted, so I was thinking about mounting them on 2 x 4 lumber, and running MC between the lights and using the lumber to screw the light fixtures to and secure the MC to as well in the areas that are to be lit.

I have seen raceway and things like that used in commercial applications, but I feel like that might be overkill in this case, hence the idea about the 2 x 4s being used.

Thoughts?

Biggest thing is that i don't want to have MC unsupported on the ceiling application and I would also like to keep things nice and neat.

Just run the wire or Mc on top of the bottom truss chord and mount the lights parallel to the trusses.

Got pics?

 

[Ihateclevernames]

If you're saying you want to use 2X4 bridging between the truss to mount the lights to then that will work. As lakeroadster suggested, using hangers will make it easier to get the 2X4's in place. I suggest that you use the screws made for hangers because it's easier than pounding nails plus you can get the hangers in place easier with the screws. At least that's my experience with the screws vs. nails.

The lights aren't that heavy.

Maybe 5-8 lbs each.

Pole barn construction with trusses 5' OC.

So you guys are saying basically using T style construction to keep the lights from sagging the lumber over time. Then that would allow me to run the MC along the lumber to the lights and what have you. Joist hangers would make it easier as well, then nailing or screwing the flat portion to the adjacent portion.

Normally, I like screws.

But the wife got me a Lithium Ion Paslode 30 degree framing nailer for Xmas.

 

[lakeroadster]

Normally, I like screws.

But the wife got me a Lithium Ion Paslode 30 degree framing nailer for Xmas.

That's awesome!

I'd still use joist hangers and screws for attachment to the truss. The other advantage is you can take them out easier and move the board at a later date.

Not so easy with toe nailed boards using ring shank nails.

 

[Ihateclevernames]

Gotcha.

Just to be clear, you were talking about it looking like an upside down "T" right? With the flat 2 x 4 actually being used to hold the light fixture?

 

[lakeroadster]

Gotcha.

Just to be clear, you were talking about it looking like an upside down "T" right? With the flat 2 x 4 actually being used to hold the light fixture?

Exactly! If the span is long, or you plan to hang a lot of weight, The vertical member could be a 2 x 6, with the horizontal being a 2 x 4

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Do they have to be surface mounted? Mine are hanging from chains with 2 simple screws into the trusses for each. Plug-in type, though, as I ran all my Romex to overhead receptacles.

 

[Ihateclevernames]

Do they have to be surface mounted? Mine are hanging from chains with 2 simple screws into the trusses for each. Plug-in type, though, as I ran all my Romex to overhead receptacles.

Trying to stay within code in my area, so I am required to use MC. The plan is to run 2 feeder lines up to junction boxes that are surface mounted which will power all of my lights and garage door openers. I want to keep them mounted to something solid in the event that I have anything taller in there as I don't want to bump them.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, you could use 1" nominal stock for purlins. This would buy you an addition inch of height over the floor.

MC cable or, what we used to call BX, might help you deal with code concerns.