Mounting Methods...I could use some help

[aka Larry]

When my attached garage was my workshop, it was 100% drywalled with studs 16" O.C. thus when I wanted to mount something heavy I broke out the old stud finder and use an appropriate sized lag screw(s).

Now my new shop is constructed with 2"x2" steel tubes approx 60" O.C. making attaching a load a little more involved. The entire building was constructed using these same tubes joined together with with self-tapping screws and small angle brackets, but I just don't feel comfortable securing, say, a 100-200lb load using just these.

To keep things off the floor I want to hang a lot of stuff on the "walls", but really the walls are just sheets of tin, so the support tubes will have to suffice.

The largest self-tapping screws I have found are 1/4"-20 sized. What other options do I have to secure stuff (like a rack for steel storage) to these beams (tubes)? I know I could break out the welder, but sometimes things need to be less permanent, not to mention all the steel is galvanized.

Thoughts?

 

[BigMike782]

Maybe this would work,
http://www.google.com/search?q=fren...&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=

 

[kbs2244]

60 “ centers is going to be too much to span for those kind of loads.
You need to think about self supporting racks that will fit in between your “studs.”

 

[rbgearz]

When it comes to mounting, I like to ask what she likes. If she's a big girl, a running start usually helps.

 

[akdiesel]

Unistrut is a great choice for metal frame work supports. We have it through out the plant I work in to support cables trays, electrical boxes, small piping, and such with some spanned approx 4' - 5'. Most are welded but some are simply molly screwed to the sheet rock (I dont' suggest this approach).
They are easy to fasten to a stud of wood or metal with the strut channel that has the slots for various lengths.

 

[retrobuilder]

I'd mount a structural cross bar from the 60 inch width to wall supports then mount your load on that bar. Pretty much like what Big Mike showed. It is also the way many european kitchen cabinets are mounted for kitchens. A panel of 3/4 plywood 24x60+ would also work.

1/4 bolts should be okay, look for exterior paneling and metal roofing bolts.

 

[aka Larry]

After some thought and planning I think I'm going to weld-up a few brackets (see drawing below) using 1-1/2" flat bar and attach them to the beams with a 3/8" thru-bolt for supporting heavy items. For these type items items that need to span the distance between the 60" spaced beams, I will attach uni-strut to these brackets and go from there.

 

[akdiesel]

Don't know what you do for a living but your computer design skills are great. A little off topic but drawing details help out so much.

 

[aka Larry]

Don't know what you do for a living but your computer design skills are great. A little off topic but drawing details help out so much.

Thanks! I agree, having a drawing sure helps explain things. I draw everything before I build it.

FYI, I'm a CAD operator for a civil engineering firm now, but I did mechanical drafting for 15 years prior. The drawing above is done old school "isometric" like I used to do by hand drafting days. IOW, none of the new automatic 3D stuff was used.