Mounting Options for "Stop" Button on Lift Power Unit

[Homewrecker]

I know some people on here have this Emergency Stop Button mounted on their lift but was unable to find the pics I had seen at some point.
Anyone have suggestions on where/how to mount this?

I was thinking of mounting it to the side of of the enclosure that contains the Contactor and button but there is very little room inside and any protruding fasteners may interfere with the wiring inside.

Also, the manual states a 240V / 30 Amp Circuit is required which I have running to the post via 10/2 Cable yet the lift came with a 14/2 SOOW pigtail on the power unit. I'm going to run the 10/2 I have installed to the emergency stop switch but should I just connect the existing 14/2 pigtail from the box onto the other side of the switch or remove the pig tail and run 10/2 from there was well?

The only issue with running the 10/2 into the power unit box is the nylon compression fittings I have don't fit the existing knockouts on the box.

 

[pattenp]

I mounted a disconnect box on the column of my lift by drilling and tapping holes in the column in a spot where the carriage doesn't ride and used short screws so not to have any chance of interference. I used a flexible whip between the disconnect box and the motor control box.

 

[Homewrecker]

I mounted a disconnect box on the column of my lift by drilling and tapping holes in the column in a spot where the carriage doesn't ride and used short screws so not to have any chance of interference. I used a flexible whip between the disconnect box and the motor control box.

I was thinking about doing that. I also had an idea to drill down into the top of the power unit mounting plate and bolting an 'L' Bracket to it and the Stop button box. What gauge wire is your flexible whip?

I don't want to drill into the post right now as the installers did not finish the job yet. The opposite post ran into issues where the idiots that poured the floor didn't make it level left to right so the opposite post is 3/8" lower. In order to make it plumb and the same height as the other post it needs too many shims and left a 3/4" gap between the base plate and floor so they will install a 3/8 HDPE 'plate' underneath it and use longer anchors. I was unsure of that solution but they said they do this on 15,000lb truck lifts all the time and not to worry. I'm also having base extensions installed to be on the safe side.

The other alternative would be to have the entire area re-poured but that would then create a 3/8" step relative to the rest of the floor and not really something I want to do at this point.

When the house was built I paid for a thicker slab and very little slope on the floor. I made sure to check everything before I pulled the trigger. Floor thickness and slope were all good but I foolishly assumed there was no left to right levelling issues. I can't believe I didn't check that. I was more concerned with the front to back slope.

Been planning and thinking about this since we got the house in 2013 and now finally I go ahead and I get bitten in the a**.

 

[Drill Sergeant Arc]

I was thinking about doing that. I also had an idea to drill down into the top of the power unit mounting plate and bolting an 'L' Bracket to it and the Stop button box. What gauge wire is your flexible whip?

I don't want to drill into the post right now as the installers did not finish the job yet. The opposite post ran into issues where the idiots that poured the floor didn't make it level left to right so the opposite post is 3/8" lower. In order to make it plumb and the same height as the other post it needs too many shims and left a 3/4" gap between the base plate and floor so they will install a 3/8 HDPE 'plate' underneath it and use longer anchors. I was unsure of that solution but they said they do this on 15,000lb truck lifts all the time and not to worry. I'm also having base extensions installed to be on the safe side.

The other alternative would be to have the entire area re-poured but that would then create a 3/8" step relative to the rest of the floor and not really something I want to do at this point.

When the house was built I paid for a thicker slab and very little slope on the floor. I made sure to check everything before I pulled the trigger. Floor thickness and slope were all good but I foolishly assumed there was no left to right levelling issues. I can't believe I didn't check that. I was more concerned with the front to back slope.

Been planning and thinking about this since we got the house in 2013 and now finally I go ahead and I get bitten in the a**.

Relax, it’s no big deal. You can also shim columns and then use a high strength grout to fill the gap. But the movement from dynamic loading has a tendency to loosen and crack grouting. So, the HDPE is a long term more stable solution. Paint it’s outside edge to match the lift and don’t think about it again.

I ran my hoist cord male plug up to a female pendant hanging from a 4” square box mounted to a truss’ bottom cord. I like the idea of being able to quickly disconnect the power if needed.

 

[Homewrecker]

Relax, it’s no big deal. You can also shim columns and then use a high strength grout to fill the gap. But the movement from dynamic loading has a tendency to loosen and crack grouting. So, the HDPE is a long term more stable solution. Paint it’s outside edge to match the lift and don’t think about it again.

I ran my hoist cord male plug up to a female pendant hanging from a 4” square box mounted to a truss’ bottom cord. I like the idea of being able to quickly disconnect the power if needed.

Those are great suggestions. The installers told me not to sweat it either but since I work in aviation safety is second nature to me. Also, this is a baseplate lift so proper anchoring is even more critical for the tension loads, hence the add-on base extension kit I ordered with it.

Way back in the day I was also dealer tech so I'm comfortable using lifts. I do miss the old school in ground single and double post lifts. Those are my favourite still to this day. I was fascinated with them as kid seeing this shiny metal tube magically appear out of the ground lol.

I have a box mounted to the ceiling above the post with a twist lock receptacle with matching twist lock plug connected to flexible SOOW Cable down to the box. The only reason I'm adding the stop button is that my ceiling is 11' and depending on the vehicle, it may hit the ceiling if the button gets stuck or the contacts on the contactor weld closed. I've seen some videos and read some horror stories about it so I wanted to get ahead of it and the little extra money it cost me is well worth it IMO whether I ever experience the issue or not.

Will paint even stick to HDPE? I guess it would if the surface is scuffed or sanded enough.

Btw, your avatar is gonna give me nightmares now lol.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I fit it all in the original box, just had to move the STOP over away from the pushbutton (the silver blur to the right of the green button).

I may add a relay to take some of the load off of the push button.

 

[Homewrecker]

I fit it all in the original box, just had to move the STOP over away from the pushbutton (the silver blur to the right of the green button).

I may add a relay to take some of the load off of the push button.

I don't think I can do that with the box that's on the unit. There's barely any room in there as it is. Yours look alot larger than mine.

 

[Drill Sergeant Arc]

I don't think I can do that with the box that's on the unit. There's barely any room in there as it is. Yours look alot larger than mine.

I see in the image one of the top mounting bolts for the motor/pump unit. You can get some general purpose metal strapping from any Lowe’s or Home Depot and make a one or several piece bracket to support your grey outdoor box above the motor. Remember, you only need to switch one of the two hot wires of a 240 V motor. So one short piece of that 10/2 would be fine to go from the control box below to the emergency stop box above. Just pick one hot leg down in the control box and detour it up to and through that switch and bring it back down and connect it back on its way to the push-button momentary control switch.

BTW I’m planing on installing the same switch as you have. My lift is from the early 1980’s and has seemed to delay a little when I release the button so I did a quick-fix until I replace the momentary switch and add the safety button.

 

[pattenp]

What gauge wire is your flexible whip?

I used #10.

 

[steel 35]

I asked for one the first time the up button; cotactors what ever, stuck on.
The second time it wasn't a request

 

[Homewrecker]

I see in the image one of the top mounting bolts for the motor/pump unit. You can get some general purpose metal strapping from any Lowe’s or Home Depot and make a one or several piece bracket to support your grey outdoor box above the motor. Remember, you only need to switch one of the two hot wires of a 240 V motor. So one short piece of that 10/2 would be fine to go from the control box below to the emergency stop box above. Just pick one hot leg down in the control box and detour it up to and through that switch and bring it back down and connect it back on its way to the push-button momentary control switch.

BTW I’m planing on installing the same switch as you have. My lift is from the early 1980’s and has seemed to delay a little when I release the button so I did a quick-fix until I replace the momentary switch and add the safety button.

That's a great idea. I'll use the top outboard bolt and use a straight piece of metal bolted to the back of the box and using the existing hole on the power unit bracket.

The switch is rated for 240V and does have terminals to disconnect both legs but I never considered just switching one of them. I'll see if I can make that work.

The switch you can get from amazon. If you want to use the same aluminum outdoor box that I have make sure you order the "extension ring" for it as the switch is really deep and would not fit inside the box without it.

That's one old lift lol but they were built like tanks back then. What brand is it?

 

[Drill Sergeant Arc]

That's a great idea. I'll use the top outboard bolt and use a straight piece of metal bolted to the back of the box and using the existing hole on the power unit bracket.

The switch is rated for 240V and does have terminals to disconnect both legs but I never considered just switching one of them. I'll see if I can make that work.

The switch you can get from amazon. If you want to use the same aluminum outdoor box that I have make sure you order the "extension ring" for it as the switch is really deep and would not fit inside the box without it.

That's one old lift lol but they were built like tanks back then. What brand is it?

 

[Homewrecker]

Was a bit of struggle trying to connect the wiring in both boxes due to limited space but she's all done. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[dante2]

Looks good. Electrician mounted mine on the wall about 3' from the controls. Not where I wanted it but it's a little more difficult for little ones to mess with a two step process.

 

[Homewrecker]

Finally got it all bolted down. The installers said this is the first time anyone has ordered the base plate extensions. IMO, you can never have too much steel; especially when your life can be cut violently short lol.